George Washington National Forest: St. Mary’s Falls Trail (Blog Hike #128)

Trails: St. Mary’s Trail; St. Mary’s Falls Trail

Hike Location: George Washington National Forest, St. Mary's Wilderness

Geographic Location: northeast of Lexington, VA (37.92514, -79.13771)

Length: 4 miles

Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)

Date Hiked: April 2003

Overview: A fairly level hike that fords the river twice before reaching an unusual cascade.

Area Information: http://www.wilderness.net/NWPS/wildView?WID=513
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=940893
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Lexington, go north on I-81 to CR 606 (exit 205).  Exit and go east.  CR 606 becomes SR 56 when it intersects US 11.  Continue east 1 mile to CR 608 and turn left on CR 608.  In 2.1 miles stay right on CR 608 where CR 667 exits to the left.  Continue an additional 0.4 miles to FR 42 and turn right on FR 42.  Where FR 42 curves to the left, continue straight on FR 41.  Gravel FR 41 dead-ends at the St. Mary’s trailhead.

The hike: Established by Congress in 1984, the St. Mary Wilderness protects 10,090 acres of second growth forest on the west slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  The wilderness designation means that humans are only visitors, not permanent residents.  This means that only primitive camping is allowed, vehicles are prohibited, and, most importantly for this hike, no bridges exist.

The wilderness area is traversed by a large network of trails.  The main artery running southwest-northeast is the St. Mary’s/Kennedy Ridge Trail (the trail changes name on top of Bald Mountain).  The main artery running southeast-northwest atop Bald Mountain is the Big Levels Bald Mountain Primitive Road, formerly a forest road now closed to vehicles.  This hike follows part of the St. Mary’s Trail along St. Mary’s River to an unusual cascade in the river.  This trail can be most easily hiked in the fall when river levels are lowest, thus making the fords easier.

The trail begins at the rear of the small gravel parking area.  Enter the forest and walk along a narrow ledge with the creek on your right and a steep hillside on your left.  The rocky trail is not very well marked, but the ravine is narrow and the trail follows the river, so it is hard to lose your way.  Some side trails created by fisherman head right down to the river, but stick with the main trail, heading upstream.

St. Mary's River below St. Mary's Falls

            The trail remains on the north side of the stream for the first mile until the ravine walls completely close off the north side of the river. At this point you must ford the river for the first of four times total (two out and two back).  The river bottom is rocky, the river is about 40 feet wide, and the water is one to four feet deep depending on the season, so use discretion when determining whether it is safe to cross.  If the water is too deep or swift, turn back and try again at a dryer time.

Across the river, the trail continues upstream following the south bank.  Cross over a particularly narrow ledge that requires a three-foot step up to reach, then come to a trail junction 1.5 miles from the start.  The main St. Mary’s Trail continues to the right, while the side trail leading to the falls goes left.  Stay left, and in 0.2 miles come to the second ford of St. Mary’s River.  This one is further upstream and thus easier than the first, but use caution again.

Back on the north side of the river, the trail crosses a side stream on an easy rock-hop and in 0.3 miles comes to the main feature on the hike.  What makes the cascade so unique is that half of the cascade disappears under the rock of the south bank.  Water crashes into the vertical rock walls, then makes a quick right turn as it continues downstream.  The gorge is narrow and cool at this point, and a couple of nice rocks make for good spots to stop and rest, watching the river.

Cascade in St. Mary's River

            The easy trail ends at this cascade.  If river levels allow, you can enter the river and wade another 0.2 miles upstream to St. Mary’s Falls, a nice falls in the river.  Unfortunately, on my visit the river was too deep to wade safely, so I had to turn around at this point.  Either way, you must now walk 2 miles back down St. Mary’s River, crossing the river twice more on your way out.  Be careful with the river crossings and on the narrow ledges as you return to your car and complete the hike.