Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Skidaway Island State Park: Sandpiper/Big Ferry Loop (Blog Hike #925)

Trails: Sandpiper, Avian Loop, Connector, and Big Ferry Trails
Hike Location: Skidaway Island State Park
Geographic Location: southeast of Savannah, GA (31.94960, -81.05353)
Length: 4.3 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: February 2023
Overview: A multiple loop hike with good tidal marsh views and interesting human history.
Park Information: https://gastateparks.org/SkidawayIsland
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=929409
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: South of Savannah, take I-95 to SR 204 (exit 94).  Exit, go east on SR 204 for 6.7 miles, than angle right to enter Harry S. Truman Parkway.  Drive Harry S. Truman Parkway 1.7 miles to Whitefield Ave.  Exit and turn right on Whitefield Ave.  Drive Whitefield Ave. east across the Diamond Causeway for 3.9 miles to Skidaway Island Park Road.  Turn left on Skidaway Island Park Rd., which deadends at the park entrance.  Pay the park entrance fee and park in the large parking lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: When you drive east on the Diamond Causeway from Savannah, the last sign for Skidaway Island State Park is located beside a retirement home and two churches, making this park seem like an unlikely destination for a good hike.  But do not let the development discourage you: cozy 588 acre Skidaway Island State Park offers a surprising amount of peace and solitude given its location.  The park is separated from the City of Savannah by the Skidaway River, which is also part of the intracoastal waterway.  Indeed, Skidaway Island State Park lacks only a beach from offering a sample of everything good about coastal Georgia.
            In terms of amenities, the park boasts an excellent 87-site developed campground, 5 picnic shelters, 3 cabins, and 2 playgrounds.  For hikers, the park offers 6 miles of trails exploring both the marshes and the forests, plus the trails explore some interesting constructions made by the people who lived and worked here centuries ago.  This hike takes you on a grand loop tour through the park's trail system, thus exploring all of the natural scenery and human history this park has to offer.
Trailhead for Sandpiper Trail
    
        Start by walking around the right side of the very large and very nice Visitor Center to find the signed trailhead for the Sandpiper Trail.  Very quickly you reach a long wooden bridge over a sunny marsh.  A large number of tiny fiddler crabs were scurrying around the sunny marsh when I came here, and the views here are truly delightful if the heat and bugs are not too bad.
Fiddler crabs in salt marsh
    
        When you reach the island hammock on the other side of the second bridge, the Sandpiper Trail splits to form its loop.  To take the most direct route to the Avian Loop Trail, the next segment of this hike, I turned right here.  The island hammock is shady but potentially muddy, and I had to step around some wet areas on this segment of the trail.
            At 0.5 miles, you need to turn right to leave the Sandpiper Trail and begin the Avian Loop Trail.  A sign marks this intersection.  After crossing a bridge over a tidal creek, the Avian Loop Trail splits to form its loop.  Again to take the shortest route to the next trail, I turned right here to start hiking the Avian Loop Trail counterclockwise.
Crossing a tidal creek
    
        A short walk on another island hammock brings you to a trail intersection and some picnic tables beside Skidaway River at 0.8 miles.  A couple of ladies were letting their dogs play in the river when I came here, and the picnic tables make a scenic spot to sit if it is not too early in the hike for a rest.  When you are ready to continue, turn right to head east on the green-blazed Connector Trail.
            True to its name, the Connector Trail connects the Sandpiper and Avian Loop Trails with the more substantial Big Ferry Trail.  At first the Connector Trail passes through an open sunny area that might be wet if it has rained recently, but soon it gains a small amount of elevation to enter a nice pine forest with Spanish moss-draped live oaks and even some palm trees.  The trail also passes through the primitive campground, and the wooden overnight shelters look like nice places to spend a night backpacking provided the heat and bugs are manageable.
Hiking the Connector Trail
    
        Just shy of 1.5 miles, you reach the east end of the Connector Trail and its intersection with the Big Ferry Trail.  The trail going right will eventually be our route back to the Visitor Center, and you could go that way now if you are getting tired or running out of daylight.  To also hike the Big Ferry Trail, which is probably this park's best trail, turn left and then turn right to begin the south arm of the Big Ferry Trail.
Hiking the Big Ferry Trail
    
        The trail treads near the park boundary on the right as it passes through more nice forest with tall pine trees and a dense understory of palmetto and holly.  I heard some woodpeckers in this area and saw numerous other woodland birds.  Just past 2 miles, the south and north arms of the Big Ferry Trail come back together.  Turn right to begin the eastern section of the Big Ferry Trail.  
Liquor still ruins
    
        Soon you pass an area with a large number of shell middens, or mounds of oyster shell scraps left here by people centuries ago.  Next you arrive at the ruins of a liquor still, which were left here much more recently.  Skidaway Island was a popular site for illegal liquor production during Prohibition: it was easy for bootleggers to access, yet the island location and dense greenery made it hard for authorities to find the stills.  Finally you reach the Big Ferry Trail's small easternmost loop.  This loop features some trench earthworks built by slaves during the Civil War to prevent Union incursions on the island.  A wooden bridge carries you over the deepest trench.

Civil War-era earthworks
    
        Now heading west, stay right at all trail forks to hike the north arm of the Big Ferry Trail's loop.  A couple of views into the sunny salt marsh to the right emerge, and at 3.3 miles you reach the short spur trail that leads right to the observation tower.  This tower offers a fantastic view across the salt marsh and the Skidaway River, and I saw several waterfowl including herons and egrets here.
View east from observation tower

View north from observation tower
    
        Past the observation tower, the trail joins an old dirt road as it passes a couple of ponds.  The park map calls these ponds alligator ponds, and while you may see an alligator here, they in fact are probably borrow pits from this road's construction.  At 3.6 miles, you close the Big Ferry Trail's loop.  Continue straight to keep following the old road and reach the paved park road at 3.9 miles.  Turn right on the paved park road and walk along the shoulder of the road to return to the Visitor Center and complete the hike.

Monday, February 20, 2023

Little Talbot Island State Park: Dune Ridge Trail (Blog Hike #924)

Trail: Dune Ridge Trail
Hike Location: Little Talbot Island State Park
Geographic Location: south of Amelia Island, FL (30.45846, -81.41400)
Length: 3.6 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: January 2023
Overview: A loop hike, half through coastal scrub dunes and half along the beach.
Park Information: https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/little-talbot-island-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=940580
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Amelia Island, take SR A1A south 14 miles, crossing Nassau Sound in the process, to the signed entrance for Little Talbot Island State Park. Turn left to enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and park on the near (north) side of the large paved parking area for the beach.

The hike: When I drive into most state parks, my route takes me through rural wooded areas on roads dotted with ordinary sedans, RV's, and occasional tractors.  My route into Little Talbot Island State Park from the north took me through the posh resort town of Amelia Island, and I must admit feeling a little intimidated driving my old subcompact Chevy Sonic on a road full of shiny Mercedes, Porsche, Audi, BMW, and the like.  Yet when I drove through the park entrance, the pomp and glitter faded into the usual sublime natural setting, and I found one of the hidden diamonds of northeast Florida.
            Established in 1949, Little Talbot Island State Park protects 1600 acres on its namesake island northeast of Jacksonville.  The park is the centerpiece of a group of 7 state parks known collectively as the Talbot Island State Parks.  Among that group, Little Talbot Island is known for having the best beach access, the best amenities, and the best options for hikers.  Indeed, Little Talbot Island State Park boasts a cozy 36-site developed campground, 5 miles of Atlantic Ocean beach, and several boardwalks that take you from the parking lot across the dunes to the beach.
            For hikers, Little Talbot Island State Park offers several trails totaling 7 miles, but the Dune Ridge Trail described here is widely regarded as the park's best trail and the best hiking trail in the Talbot Islands.  The trail starts in a coastal scrubland environment before proceeding into the dunes and concluding with a long walk on the undeveloped beach.  I hiked here on a seasonally warm and humid last day of January and had one of the best hikes of my Georgia/Florida State Line hiking trip.
Trailhead: Dune Ridge Trail
    
        Because this hike forms a true loop, there are 2 ways you could start from the main beach parking area.  To get the road walk over first and save the beach for last, I chose to hike the loop clockwise.  To execute such a plan, pick up the asphalt bike trail as it parallels the main park road, heading out to the left of the road you just drove in on.  After passing the gatehouse, the bike path crosses the road at a marked crosswalk.  Instead of staying with the bike path here, continue straight to leave the asphalt and begin the sandy dirt Dune Ridge Trail.  A carsonite post and an information kiosk mark this trailhead.
            This hike's next segment heads north paralleling the inland side of the sand dunes.  At first traffic noise from nearby SR A1A comes in from the left, but soon the road curves away and you hear only nature sounds.  Gradual undulations characterize this part of the hike.  Most of the trail surface is firmly packed sand, but a couple areas of softer sand will have to be negotiated.
Hiking through coastal scrubland
    
        The dense forest is dominated by live oaks, cedars, and sable palm trees with a dense understory of palmettos.  I heard more birds than I saw due to the greenery.  Distance markers appear in 1 mile increments, and occasional benches offer opportunities to rest if needed.

1 mile marker in dense greenery
    
        1.8 miles from the beach parking lot, the trail curves right to leave the scrubland and head into the dunes.  Sand towers 30 feet over the trail here, but signs warn against climbing the fragile dunes.  No tall trees grow here due to the unstable foundation, and this part of the hike can be a hot and sunny journey during the warmer months.
Looking up at a sand dune
    
        2.2 miles into the hike, you emerge onto the beach.  Unless you want to lengthen the beach hike by exploring the north end of Little Talbot Island, turn right to begin walking southbound on the beach.  I have read that this beach can get narrow at high tide, but it was at least 50 feet wide when I hiked here just after low tide.
Emerging onto the beach

Looking up the wide beach
    
        I have enjoyed every beach hike I have ever done, and this one was no exception.  Of course the beach is exposed to the sun, but a refreshing foggy mist hung in the air on my visit.  Also, the breeze blowing off the water moderates the temperatures.  Some sea gulls kept me company on the mostly deserted and undeveloped beach, and I took my time on this section of the hike.
Boardwalk to parking lot
    
        At 3.4 miles, the wooden boardwalk that leads back to the beach parking lot appears on the right.  After lingering on the beach for a few extra minutes, I walked across the boardwalk to return to the parking lot and complete the hike.  While you are here, consider also hiking the short Big Pine Trail, which starts near the campground and explores the marshes on the west side of Little Talbot Island.

Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Jack Hill State Park: Swamp Bay Trail (Blog Hike #923)

Trail: Swamp Bay Trail
Hike Location: Jack Hill State Park
Geographic Location: Reidsville, GA (32.08376, -82.13557)
Length: 1.1 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: January 2023
Overview: A double out-and-back through pine woods above Gordonia-Altamaha Lake.
Park Information: https://gastateparks.org/JackHill
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=929293
Photo Highlight:
Short Video:

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Reidsville, take US 280 west to the second entrance for Jack Hill State Park on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, pay the park entrance fee, and pass the park superintendent's house.  The trailhead for the Swamp Bay Trail is on the right just before the road to the golf course exits left.  There is room for a couple of cars to park in the sandy dirt area across the road from the signed trailhead.

The hike: Established in 1951 as Gordonia-Alatamaha State Park, Jack Hill State Park protects 662 acres on the highly residential west side of Reidsville.  The park earned its original name due to its location near the Altamaha River and due to the gordonia tree, a rare flowering evergreen tree that grows in the park.  The park's name was changed in 2020 to honor Georgia State Senator Jack Hill, a long-serving state senator who was instrumental in developing the park.
            The park's most famous amenity is its golf course, which has been recently expanded from 9 to 18 holes.  The park also offers a 29-site developed campground, 8 cottages, some picnic areas, a playground, and the short Swamp Bay Trail described here.  The Swamp Bay Trail's route is kind of unusual: it starts near the campground and ends in the middle of the woods.  Thus, while this park is not a top-tier hiking destination, it does provide a nice walk in the woods with good lake views.
Trailhead near park road
    
        Starting from the signed trailhead near the intersection of the main park road and the golf course road, the unmarked trail heads slightly downhill.  Very quickly the trail forks.  We will go both ways eventually, but I chose to turn right and explore the the Swamp Bay Trail's south arm first.
Hiking under pine trees
    
        The trail undulates slightly as it heads east under some large pine trees.  The understory is crowded with lots of 
palmetto and rhododendron.  Wooden and metal bridges carry you over small streams, and private houses can be seen across the park boundary to the right.
"End" of south arm
    
        At 0.3 miles, I reached a point where the trail was closed with yellow restrictive tape.  The park ranger at the Visitor Center told me they were working to clear the trail from recent storm damage, but with no obvious trail to follow I had to turn around here.  Upon reaching the original trail fork, turn right to begin the north arm of the Swamp Bay Trail.
Gordonia-Altamaha Lake
    
        At first the north arm looks much like the south arm, but soon the backwaters of Gordonia-Altamaha Lake come into view on the right.  Next the campground comes in sight uphill to the left, and finally the open waters of 
Gordonia-Altamaha Lake appear on the right.  When you reach the campground trailhead, some nice benches invite you to sit, rest, and enjoy the lake views.  After admiring the lake, turn around and retrace your steps to the trailhead to complete the hike.