Sweitzer Lake State Park (Blog Hike #822)

Trail: Sweitzer Trail
Hike Location: Sweitzer Lake State Park
Geographic Location: southeast of Delta, CO (38.71206, -108.04092)
Length: 2.9 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A flat, sunny circumnavigation of Sweitzer Lake.
Park Information: https://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/SweitzerLake
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=825284
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: The signed entrance to Sweitzer Lake State Park is located on US 50 2.3 miles east of Delta.  Turn left (east) on E Road, which dead-ends at the park entrance.  Pay the park entrance fee, then park at the parking area for the swimming beach.

The hike: Tucked away in an unlikely swale in the semi-arid area southeast of Delta, Sweitzer Lake State Park protects 210 acres on and around its namesake lake.  The lake and park are named for the Morgan Sweitzer family, who donated the land for this park in 1953.  The man-made lake was built solely for the purpose of recreation, and the park opened to the public in 1972.

            Since its opening the park has garnered the nickname "oasis on the edge of the desert" because birds and waterfowl flock to its waters.  Fall and spring migrations are the best times to come here, and I have to be honest and report that I saw more dragonflies than birds on my visit on a late July morning.  In terms of amenities, the park offers only a swimming area and boat ramp on the lake, some picnic shelters, and one hiking trail that goes along the lake's north shore.  Combining the hiking trail with a walk on the park's seldom-used gravel roads forms the circumnavigation of Sweitzer Lake described here.

Bridge across spillway

            From the swimming beach parking area, walk north atop the dam that forms Sweitzer Lake with the lake on the right and a steep valley on the left.  The mountains of Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area can be seen across the length of the lake to the east.  After crossing the iron bridge with wood deck that spans the lake's concrete spillway, you reach some ugly steel picnic shelters that occupy a pretty lakeside location.  Turn right and walk past the picnic shelters to pick up the two-track dirt/gravel course that is the park's hiking trail.

Picnic shelter beside lake

Start of hiking trail

            The trail heads east with the lake on your right and a dirt/rock mound-like hill behind an irrigation channel on your left.  For its entire distance the trail treads atop dredge from this irrigation channel, and while this route may not make for the most appealing hiking, it does make the hiking easy.  The lack of tree cover will make this hike hot and sunny in the summer, so be sure to wear a hat and/or sunscreen to protect against the intense high elevation sun.  On the plus side, nice views open up south across Sweitzer Lake to the Uncompahgre Plateau beyond.

View south across Sweitzer Lake

            As you approach the shallow east end of Sweitzer Lake, the distance between the trail and the lake increases.  After passing under a power line, the trail follows the irrigation channel as it makes a sweeping right turn.  An industrial area comes into view across the park boundary to the east.

East end of hiking trail

            At 1.6 miles, you reach the east end of the hiking trail where it intersects the dirt/gravel park road.  Turn left to continue our journey around the lake.  The remainder of this hike uses the park road to get back to the swimming beach parking area, passing a couple more picnic areas on the way.  The road is open to vehicles, but I did not encounter any vehicles or other trail users on my late morning hike here.  Return to the swimming beach parking area at 2.9 miles; a lobe of Sweitzer Lake that juts off to the south makes the road walk back to your car longer than you might expect.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: Warner Point Nature Trail (Blog Hike #821)

Trail: Warner Point Nature Trail
Hike Location: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Geographic Location: east of Montrose, CO (38.56284, -107.74097)
Length: 1.7 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: An out-and-back to Warner Point and its Black Canyon views.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/blca/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=825283
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: From Montrose, take US 50 east 7.6 miles to SR 347 and turn left on SR 347.  SR 347 dead-ends at the park in 5.2 miles.  Enter the park, and follow the main park road to its end at the High Point parking lot, where the Warner Point Nature Trail begins.

The hike: For my introduction to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, see the previous hike.  This hike features the Warner Point Nature Trail, which is the longest of the numerous short nature trails on the canyon's south rim.  While the view from Warner Point is not my favorite canyon view, there are no bad Black Canyon views, and the hike to Warner Point traverses a rolling narrow finger ridge with its own interesting sites.

Trailhead at High Point

            From the High Point parking lot at the end of South Rim Road, the Warner Point Nature Trail starts at a brown road sign that says, very precisely, "Warner Point Nature Trail 1373 Yards."  Numbered posts correspond to an interpretive guide that was available for purchase at the trailhead on my visit.  The interpretive guide tells about the pinyon pines and juniper trees that grow along this trail, and it also tells about Mark Warner, the Montrose minister for whom this trail and point are named.  I found the guide very informative and well worth the small investment.

View south off of Vernal Mesa

            The Warner Point Nature Trail heads out a narrow finger ridge with Black Canyon views emerging on the right and views south off of Vernal Mesa appearing on the left.  The trail descends moderately to reach the lowest point on this finger ridge just past 0.2 miles.  The difference between the highest and lowest elevations on this hike is only about 160 vertical feet, but the significant amount of up and down makes this hike more challenging than you might expect for a ridgetop walk.

Hiking out the finger ridge

            As you climb the next knob, you pass the knarled trunks of several fallen pinyon pine trees.  The interpretive guide describes this hardy pine tree's unique features that allow it to live for hundreds of years in this harsh environment.  Near 0.7 miles, the rugged and rocky Warner Route to the bottom of the canyon exits left.  Stay right to keep heading to Warner Point.

View from Warner Point

            Just past 0.8 miles, you reach the unprotected rocky outcrop that is Warner Point.  The canyon is not as sheer here as it is a few miles upstream, but it still appears as a deep rocky crevasse.  Also, some horizontal pink veins of pegmatite course through the dark gneiss rock here.  The pegmatite gives this view shades of the canyon's famous Painted Wall, which is the tallest cliff in Colorado.  The trail ends at Warner Point, so after taking in the view your only choice is to retrace your steps to the trailhead to complete the hike.  My steps back to the trailhead were hurried by a moderate rain shower, an unusual event in western Colorado's semiarid environment.

View of Painted Wall from Cedar Point (not on this hike)

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: Uplands/Rim Rock Loop (Blog Hike #820)

Trails: Oak Flat, Uplands, and Rim Rock Trails
Hike Location: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Geographic Location: east of Montrose, CO (38.55491, -107.68666)
Length: 2.1 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A loop hike with fantastic views of Black Canyon.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/blca/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=825280
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Montrose, take US 50 east 7.6 miles to SR 347 and turn left on SR 347.  SR 347 dead-ends at the park entrance in 5.2 miles.  Enter the park, and follow the main park road to the South Rim Visitor Center, where this hike begins.

The hike: The western United States features many large and famous canyons including Zion Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and of course the largest-of-the-large Grand Canyon, but none of these canyons match the scenic starkness of the Gunnison River's Black Canyon.  The igneous rock found under western Colorado's mesas resists erosion, yet for 48 miles the Gunnison River cuts up to 1800 feet into this rock.  Moreover, at its narrowest point the canyon at river-level is less than 40 feet wide.  The jagged dark rock walls only add to the canyon's intrigue.  I had been wanting to come to the Black Canyon for more than 20 years, and my eventual visit on a damp Saturday in late July did not disappoint.

            The Gunnison River is named for John Gunnison, an explorer and engineer who visited this canyon in 1853.  Gunnison was scouting possible railroad routes that would connect St. Louis and San Francisco, but he judged the canyon to be impenetrable by railroad.  Indeed, the canyon is difficult to penetrate or cross by almost any means.  The canyon came under federal protection with the establishment of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument in 1933, and it was upgraded to national park status in 1999.

            The national park offers a Visitor Center on the canyon's more developed south rim and a ranger station on the canyon's more remote north rim, but the south rim is easier to access from nearby towns. Unfortunately, the south rim's hiking options are limited and consist mostly of short nature trails.  One of the south rim's better and longer loop hikes is the one on the Uplands and Rim Rock Trails described here.  This hike stays on the canyon rim for just under half its distance, and it offers a nice mixture of canyon views and rolling semi-arid terrain that characterizes the canyon's rim.

Looking down at Gunnison Point

View from Gunnison Point

            From the back porch of the South Rim Visitor Center, our hike will start on the gravel trail signed as the Oak Flat Loop, but first take a short side trip down to Gunnison Point for your first fantastic Black Canyon view.  Gunnison Point is a railing-protected developed overlook about 20 feet below the canyon rim, and it sits atop a rocky extrusion that juts well out into the canyon.  The Gunnison River can be seen from here, but the canyon walls themselves may be of greatest interest.  The majority of the rock is a dark igneous rock called gneiss, but notice the streaks of pinkish rock called pegmatite that also appear.  Gunnison Point may be my favorite canyon view on this hike, so take some time to observe the canyon's intricate details.

Start of Oak Flat Trail

            After taking in the view at Gunnison Point, retrace your steps back up to the rim and then turn right to begin the main part of this hike on the Oak Flat Trail.  The Oak Flat Trail descends to cross a seasonal stream and quickly arrive at the fork that forms its loop.  Angle left to begin heading clockwise around the Oak Flat Loop.

Climbing over rocky terrain

            The trail climbs gently over rocky terrain to reach another trail intersection at 0.35 miles.  If you want a longer and harder hike, you could continue straight on the Oak Flat Loop Trail, which takes you on a rocky course well below the rim.  This hike turns left to leave the Oak Flat Trail and head away from the canyon on the Uplands Trail.

            The somewhat narrow Uplands Trail climbs gradually through a semi-arid area dominated by sagebrush and gambel oak.  A few rocky areas need to be negotiated, but for the most part the going is fairly easy.  At 0.55 miles, you cross the park road at a marked crosswalk and continue the gradual climb.

Hiking the Uplands Trail

            Near 1 mile into the hike, the trail curves left to cross first the seasonal stream and then the park road again.  Now in a dense grove of gambel oak, you reach the highest elevation of the hike and an intersection with the Rim Rock Trail at 1.25 miles.  The Uplands Trail ends here, and the Rim Rock Trail goes left and right.  The option going right quickly ends at the South Rim Campground, so this hike turns left to begin heading back to the South Rim Visitor Center.

Sidehill Rim Rock Trail

Black Canyon view from Rim Rock Trail

            For the rest of the hike the Rim Rock Trail treads through a narrow corridor between the park road on the left and the canyon rim on the right.  Canyon views are almost non-stop, and while a few steep and/or rocky sections need to be negotiated, all of these sections are short and quickly yield to dirt/gravel sidehill trail.  At 1.7 miles, you pass Tomichi Point, a popular overlook that is also accessible by car.  Another 0.3 miles of rim walking returns you to the South Rim Visitor Center to complete the hike.  While you are here, the South Rim Road leads to numerous short nature trails that merit your attention, including the Warner Point Trail described in the next hike.  Each of these nature trails leads to a slightly different view of fascinating and imposing Black Canyon.

            

White River National Forest: Sapphire Point Trail (Blog Hike #819)

Trail: Sapphire Point Trail
Hike Location: White River National Forest, Swan Mountain Recreation Area
Geographic Location: east of Frisco, CO (39.58725, -106.04393)
Length: 0.7 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A short gently rolling loop with great views of Dillon Reservoir.
Area Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/whiteriver/recarea/?recid=40879
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=825279
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: In central Colorado, take I-70 to SR 9 (exit 203).  Exit and go south on SR 9.  Drive SR 9 south 3.6 miles to Swan Mountain Road and turn left on Swan Mountain Rd.  The signed roadside parking area for Sapphire Point Overlook is located 1.9 miles ahead on the left.

The hike: Sprawling for 2.3 million acres on the west side of Colorado's Continental Divide, White River National Forest is America's most visited national forest.  The forest was established in 1891 as the White River Plateau Timber Reserve, the second timber reserve in the United States.  The forest contains 8 wilderness areas and several developed areas of regional fame, including the Maroon Bells Scenic Area, the Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area, and the Historic Crystal Mill mining site.

            White River National Forest's Swan Mountain Recreation Area does not have the fame of some of the forest's other areas, but it protects some steep and scenic terrain on the north side of its namesake mountain.  Paved bike trails start from the nearby towns of Frisco and Dillon and lead up the side of Swan Mountain, and they provide access to Sapphire Point, the location of this short hike.  The views of Dillon Reservoir and the mountains beyond make Sapphire Point a popular destination.  In fact, the small roadside parking lot was nearly full on the late July morning I came here.  Thus, the bike paths give an alternate non-motorized way to reach this trailhead during the summer.

Trailhead at Sapphire Point

            The loop goes both directions from the parking lot, but I started on the trail that leaves the big map board on the left (west) side of the parking area, thus hiking the loop clockwise.  The wide dirt trail quickly arrives at Sapphire Point's main overlook.  This view looks southwest across the Blue River arm of Dillon Reservoir, and ridge-like Ophir Mountain stands off in the distance.  This overlook was a very popular spot on my visit, and I also saw a large number of chipmunks begging for bites to eat here.

View from main overlook

            Many people just walk out to the overlook, but the trail curves right at the overlook to continue its loop.  The sidehill trail heads east across Swan Mountain's steep north face, which features a moderately dense forest of lodgepole pines.  More nice views unfold to the north, and they feature the snow-capped peaks of Chief Mountain and Buffalo Mountain.

Hiking sidehill trail

View from picnic area

            At 0.35 miles, you reach a small picnic area that offers northward views across the length of Dillon Reservoir to Ptarmigan Mountain.  This picnic area is only accessible by trail, but there were several groups here on my visit.  The bike path coming up from Dillon comes in view downhill to the left as the trail curves right.  Too soon you return to the parking area to complete the hike.

Rocky Mountain National Park: Colorado River Trail to Lulu City Site (Blog Hike #818)

Trail: Colorado River Trail
Hike Location: Rocky Mountain National Park
Geographic Location: north of Grand Lake, CO (40.40166, -105.84798)
Length: 7.5 miles
Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A long, gradual climb featuring historical silver mining sites.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=824632
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: This hike starts at the Colorado River Trailhead, which is located on the west side of US 34 12 miles north of Grand Lake.  If the Colorado River Trailhead parking lot is full, you could park at the lesser-used Timber Lake Trailhead directly across the road.

The hike: For my general comments on Rocky Mountain National Park (known as "Rocky" for short), see my hike in the park's Wild Basin area.  This hike, the longest and last of my 5 hikes in Rocky, takes you up along the Colorado River to the site of Lulu City, an old silver mining town.  Truth be told, my original plan was to hike only to Shipler Cabins, another silver mine relic located about 2 miles up this trail.  Yet when I arrived at Shipler Cabins, the hiking was so good and sufficiently easy that I just kept going until I reached Lulu City.  I was pleased with my decision when I finished, and I had a good hike here.

Colorado River Trailhead

            From an information kiosk at the rear of the parking area, the wide dirt trail heads north with the Colorado River through the trees on the left and Trail Ridge Road uphill to the right.  After a few hundred feet, the trail goes up and over a steep ridge that looks like a small glacial moraine.  The flora here features a medium number of pine trees that let in plenty of sun to the dense grassy understory.

Hiking across a meadow

            After crossing a dry creek on a footlog, the signed Red Mountain Trail exits left just shy of 0.5 miles.  Continue straight to remain on the Colorado River Trail.  The trail heads across a sunny meadow before the valley tightens and forces the trail down to the bank of the Colorado River.  The next few hundred feet is the only part of this hike that treads right beside the river, so enjoy the riparian scenery while it lasts.

Hiking along the Colorado River

            Next the trail cuts across a steep hill as it climbs gradually to enter a rocky area.  The treadway remains relatively unencumbered with rocks, and the going remains fairly easy.  Some views west across the Colorado River valley open up to the left.

Hiking through a rocky area

            Soon the valley widens again, and near 2 miles into the hike you reach what remains of the Shipler Cabins.  Joe Shipler built these cabins in the late 1800's while trying to establish a silver mining operation, but like the one at Lulu City his silver mine proved unprofitable.  Today nature is reclaiming these cabins, and soon only foundations will remain.

A Shipler Cabin

            Past the cabins, the pines become more dense as the trail crosses a couple of creeks on nice wooden footbridges.  At 2.8 miles, the trail curves right to head up the gradient of the gradual hillside before curving left at the highest point of this hike.  A few short but steep ups and downs come next, and a couple of wet areas will need to be negotiated at the bottoms of these dips.

Spur trail to Lulu City exits left

            At 3.5 miles, you reach the signed spur trail that leads to the Lulu City site.  The main Colorado River Trail keeps heading uphill toward Little Yellowstone, but this hike angles left to begin the spur trail.  A moderate to steep descent via a couple of switchbacks brings you to the Lulu City site.  The city only lasted from 1879 through 1884, but at its peak 200 people lived here and made their living mining silver.  You will have to look hard to find any remnants of the city, and perhaps the site's best amenity today is the flat rocky area along the Colorado River.  Take some time to explore the site, enjoy the river, and see what relics you can find.

Lulu City site

Colorado River at Lulu City

            If you have more time and energy, the Colorado River Trail continues past the north end of the Lulu City site.  Just under another mile of hiking will bring you to Little Yellowstone, a crumbling rock canyon that resembles those found at Yellowstone National Park.  Continuing another 2.5 miles past Little Yellowstone brings you to La Poudre Pass, the Colorado River's headwaters and Rocky's north boundary.  I had already hiked further than I had planned, so I turned around at Lulu City and retraced my steps to the trailhead to complete the hike.