Oracle State Park: Granite Overlook Loop (Blog Hike #1001)

Trail: Granite Overlook Loop
Hike Location: Oracle State Park
Geographic Location: Oracle, AZ (32.60911, -110.73772)
Length: 1.8 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: February 2024
Overview: A loop hike, sometimes steep and rocky, to fantastic desert views.
Park Information: https://azstateparks.com/oracle
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=956639
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming date TBD)

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of American Avenue and Mount Lemmon Highway in downtown Oracle, drive Mount Lemmon Highway east 1.1 miles to the state park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, pay the park entrance fee, then turn right to park in the first parking area, which is the parking area for the Oak Woodland Area.

The hike: Consisting of 3948 acres of classic desert land in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains, Oracle State Park traces its lineage to one Mr. Neal Kannally.  Kannally bought the land in 1902, and for the next 74 years he and his family would operate a cattle ranch here.  In 1933, he completed construction of the Kannally Ranch House, a 4-level adobe structure that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  The Ranch House is open for self-guided tours and contains almost 30 oil paintings from cowboy artist Lee Kannally.

            In 1976, Kannally's last surviving sibling donated the land to the Defenders of Wildlife to create a wildlife refuge, and 10 years later it became a state park.  The park was named after the nearby town, which in turn was named after a ship some early miners in this area had traveled on.  In 2014, the park was recognized by the International Dark Sky Association as a dark sky park.

            Today wildlife still takes center stage here, and most of the park has been left in its natural state.  The park's few amenities include a group campground, some picnic shelters, and over 32 miles of trails.  Most of the park's trails are open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horses, but perhaps the park's best hiker-only trail is the Granite Overlook Loop described here.  This hike loops through a rocky area and climbs to the park's highest elevation, which offers fantastic views across the desert and to the nearby mountains.  Thus, this hike maximizes the scenery while requiring only a medium amount of effort.

Trailhead at Oak Woodland Area

            From the southwest corner of the parking area, pick up the signed Granite Overlook Loop as it begins a meandering course that heads more uphill than down.  Going this direction sends you on a counterclockwise journey around the loop.  Prickly pear cactus, mesquite, and scrub oak dominate the flora, but some grasses grow in the less rocky areas.  After rounding an initial knob, this hike's main destination comes into view ahead of and above you.

Looking up at the high point

            Just past 0.5 miles, you begin the steepest part of the climb.  A couple of rocky areas will need to be scrambled up, and this area is by far the hardest part of this hike.  About 500 feet later, you reach the flat summit area, which yields fantastic views.  Broad views across the San Pedro River valley open up to the northeast, and the snow-dusted Santa Catalina Mountains could be seen to the south on my visit.  Some benches near the summit encourage you to sit, rest, and take in the views.

View northeast over San Pedro River valley

View south to Santa Catalina Mountains

            The descent from the summit is more gradual and less rocky than the climb up, and the tough part could be avoided by doing this hike as a 2.4 mile out-and-back on just this section.  At 0.9 miles, the trail curves left to descend a bit more steeply and reach a trail shelter.  This shelter offers a broad desert view that is almost as good as the one at the summit.

Approaching a trail shelter

            At 1.35 and 1.45 miles respectively, the Windy Ridge Trail enters and then leaves from/to the right.  Unless you want to extend your hike by hiking to the Kannally Ranch House, which you can also drive to, turn left both times to remain on the Granite Overlook Loop.  Another 0.35 miles of fairly level walking on single-track dirt trail returns you to the parking lot to complete the hike.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument: Victoria Mine Trail (Blog Hike #1000)

Trail: Victoria Mine Trail
Hike Location: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument
Geographic Location: south of Ajo, AZ (31.93980, -112.81183)
Length: 4.4 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: February 2024
Overview: An out-and-back through cactus-filled washes to the abandoned Victoria silver mine.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/orpi/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=956519
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: From Ajo, drive SR 85 south 33 miles to the signed entrance for Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument on the right.  Turn right to enter the monument, pay the entrance fee, then follow signs for the Twin Peaks Campground.  The trailhead for the Victoria Mine Trail is located at the far (south) end of this campground; a small parking lot that holds 4 cars accommodates non-campers at the trailhead.

The hike: Located in extreme southern Arizona flush against the Mexican border, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument protects 330,688 acres of classic rugged Sonoran desert land.  The monument was established in 1937 when the Arizona state legislature donated the land to the federal government mainly for the purpose of getting more federal money to improve the area's roads.  The tactic worked: SR 85 is one of the few good roads in this part of Arizona.

            In 1976 the monument was declared an UNESCO Biosphere Reserve due to the large number of cacti and other desert flora that live here.  In fact, many people believe the organ pipe cactus grows wild nowhere else in the United States.  Despite the amazing flora, this monument also has a darker side: the large amount of illegal activity related to its location along the border.  From 2003-2014 a majority of the park was closed because illegal activity made the area unsafe for hikers and tourists, but improved border security has allowed the park to reopen.  I saw no illegal activity when I came here, and I never felt threatened or unsafe.

            The monument contains a large but sun-drenched developed campground, a Visitor Center with many interesting exhibits, and an extensive trail system that is a hiker's paradise during the cooler months.  Many hiking routes are possible, and the route described here takes you on a fairly flat journey across the desert to the abandoned Victoria Silver Mine.  While the old mine is interesting, I actually found the desert scenery you have to hike through to get to the old mine to be this hike's best feature.  This hike is long enough to give you a real sense of being out in the desert but does not feature any steep grades or rough terrain.  That said, do not underestimate the desert sun at this low latitude.  I went through plenty of water when I hiked here on a sunny mid-February afternoon with temperatures in the mid 80's, but I had a great hike worthy of being my 1000th blog hike.

Trailhead at Twin Peaks Campground

            At the south end of the Twin Peaks Campground, a small brown sign marks the trailhead for the Victoria Mine Trail.  Immediately cacti, creosote, and other desert shrubs surround you in all directions, and the stark Sonoyta Mountains can be seen in the distance to the south.  The dirt/gravel trail is unmarked, but the path on the ground is clear.

Hiking through the saguaro cacti

            The trail heads south before curving right to head west.  At 0.2 miles, you dip to pass through the first of 5 washes.  These washes are dry most of the year, but each one requires a short steep descent to enter followed by a short steep climb to leave.  Some of these wash entrance or exit areas have stone steps to make the grade easier to handle.  The total elevation gain on this hike is just over 300 feet, but you will gain that 300 feet 30 to 50 feet at a time.  A few larger trees grow in the washes, and 3 well-placed benches in 3 different washes take full advantage of the limited shade from these trees.

Climbing out of a wash

            Near 0.3 miles, you enter the Organ Pipe Cactus Wilderness.  No signs mark the wilderness boundary, and trail conditions do not change.  At 1.2 miles, you reach the highest point on this hike after passing through the 3rd wash.  1.8 miles into the hike, you reach the west end of the Victoria Mine Trail, where you intersect what looks like an old dirt road.  As directed by a sign, turn left to begin hiking south on the old road and continue heading for Victoria Mine.

Victoria mine store ruins

Old mine shaft

            Passing through one final wash and navigating a slightly eroded area brings you to the old Victoria Mine at 2.2 miles.  Of unknown founding, this silver mine was active before 1880, and over the next 30 years $120,000 of silver ore would be extracted from this site.  Today the stone ruins of the mine store capture your attention, and several nearby shafts have been capped to prevent entry.  Entering an old mine shaft is a stupid proposition under any circumstances.  After exploring the mine area, retrace your steps across the desert to the campground to complete the hike.

Colorado River State Historic Park to Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park (Blog Hike #999)

Trails: Riverfront Trail, Nature Trail, et. al.
Hike Location: Colorado River State Historic Park and Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park
Geographic Location: downtown Yuma, AZ (32.72719, -114.62333)
Length: 2.9 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: February 2024
Overview: An out-and-back connecting two historic sites in downtown Yuma.
Park Information, Army Depot: https://azstateparks.com/colorado-river

Park Information, Territorial Prison: https://azstateparks.com/yuma-territorial
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=956431
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: On the Arizona/California state line, take I-8 to 4th Avenue (California exit 172).  Exit and go south on 4th Ave.  Drive 4th Ave. south, and turn left to enter Colorado River State Historic Park immediately after crossing the Colorado River.  This hike begins at Colorado River State Historic Park.

The hike: With a union entry date of February 14, 1912, Arizona is the youngest of the United States' contiguous 48 states.  The northern three-fourths of Arizona's land was ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848 at the end of the Mexican-American War, while the southern portion was acquired in 1853 via the Gadsden Purchase.  The land was formally organized as the Arizona Territory in 1863, and those boundaries more or less correspond to the State of Arizona today.

            Located in extreme southwest Arizona, the City of Yuma is one of the best places to go if you want a glimpse into Arizona's territorial days.  The city is located at the old Yuma Crossing, which is one of the few naturally fordable points on the lower Colorado River.  Two state historic parks are located in downtown Yuma: Colorado River State Historic Park, which protects an old army quartermaster depot, and Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park, which protects the old Arizona Territory prison.  A bike trail goes along the Colorado River between the two parks, so you can see them both in one fairly easy hike, namely the one described here.  Note that Arizona State Parks do not allow same-day use and do charge for pedestrian access, so you will need to pay park entrance fees at both parks.

Army depot storehouse

Army depot officer's quarters

            Start with a tour of the old army depot, which was active from 1865 until 1883.  If you follow the self-guided tour's route, your first stop will be the old storehouse, a large building that looks like some old fieldhouses/gymnasiums I have seen in the Midwest.  The building is filled with period items and many interpretive signs that describe life in Yuma in the late 1800's.  Next comes the Office of the Depot Quartermaster, a smaller house-like building that contains some exhibits about military life.  Stops at the officer's quarters and (much newer) corral house complete your tour.

Hiking the bike path

            To begin your journey to the Yuma Territorial Prison, walk back out through the Visitor Center, cross the parking lot, then turn right twice to begin heading east on an asphalt bike path with the Colorado River on your left and the old army depot you just toured on your right.  The self-guided tour map calls this trail the Riverfront trail/Bike path, but it is unsigned on the ground.  The asphalt trail winds through Gateway Park, a long narrow greenway along the Colorado River, as it passes first under the concrete I-10 bridge and then under the older but more aesthetically pleasing Ocean-to-Ocean Bridge.  Nice views upstream along the river emerge even with all of the development.

Colorado River in downtown Yuma

            1.25 miles into the hike (including the army depot walking tour), you reach the dirt trail that leads to the Yuma Territorial Prison.  Turn right to leave the asphalt and begin a short but occasionally steep climb that winds around the prison cemetery and ends at the Yuma Territorial Prison's parking lot.  Walk across the parking lot and through the admission building to enter the prison.

Hiking up to the prison

            Like the old army depot, the old prison offers a self-guided walking tour.  The tour starts with a viewpoint of the bridges you just walked under, but the first main point of interest is the old guard tower.  Climbing the two flights of steps yields fantastic views across the desert to the east and over the prison to the southwest.

View east from guard tower

Prison cell block

            Next enter the prison itself by passing through the sally port and museum.  This prison is every bit as foreboding as you would expect, especially the dark cell used for solitary confinement.  This prison would be a truly miserable place to be in the hot desert summer.  After touring the prison, walk back to the old army depot on the bike path to complete the hike.  On your way back, be sure to take the short dirt Nature Trail that goes between the bike path and the river near the old prison.  This trail passes through a pleasantly wooded area, and it lets you experience the riverside in a more natural setting compared to the rest of the hike.

Grand Canyon National Park: Rim Trail (Blog Hike #201)

Trail: Rim Trail

Hike Location: Grand Canyon National Park

Geographic Location: Grand Canyon Village, AZ (36.07026, -112.14766)

Length: 6.3 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: May 2006

Overview: A fairly flat walk on paved trail offering spectacular views of the largest canyon in the United States.

Park Information: http://www.nps.gov/grca/
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=720480
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: While there are many points from which to begin the Rim Trail, this trail description will start at Maricopa Point, the western terminus of the paved section of trail.  Most of the year, Maricopa Point is accessible only by a free park shuttle.  From Grand Canyon Village, board the Village Route and ride to the Hermit’s Rest transfer station.  Depart the Village Route and transfer to the Hermit’s Rest Route.  Depart the shuttle at Maricopa Point, the second stop from the transfer station.

The hike: Many writers have tried in vain to find words appropriate for the scenery to be found at Grand Canyon.  In lieu of words, I thought I would start with some numbers: 5700 feet deep; 14,280 yards wide; 277 miles long.  If those numbers are hard to imagine, you are getting the right idea.

There is another impressive number associated with the canyon: 2 billion years; that is the age of the rocks at the bottom of the canyon.  As you stand on the rim, you are standing on rock that is some 250 million years old, rather young on the geologic time scale.  This rock formed over billions of years as sediments from a now disappeared sea covered and recovered this area, depositing layer upon layer of fresh rock atop that already present.  These layers have been eroded away by the Colorado River so that, as you peer into the depths of the canyon, you actually look back into time: 2 billion years worth of time.  Indeed, a walk through the canyon gives a geology lesson you will be hard pressed to find in any textbook.

Unfortunately, there are no easy trails into the canyon.  The easiest trail into the canyon is the Bright Angel Trail, which departs from the Rim Trail.  The Bright Angel Trail descends 4200 feet over 7 miles to the Colorado River and thus should not be attempted unless you have made adequate preparations and are in good physical condition.  For those of us content to simply look into the canyon, with only a short trip under the rim, the Rim Trail will do nicely. 

The Rim Trail travels 12 miles from Hermit’s Rest in the west to Pipe Creek Vista in the east.  The western 6 miles is unpaved, and the eastern 6 miles is paved.  While you would think the unpaved section further away from the crowds at Grand Canyon Village would make for better hiking, in fact the opposite is true.  The western section stays very close to the park road, and thus you must put up with the noise of vehicles along the road.  The eastern section does not have this inconvenience.  Although the Rim Trail does not form a loop, you can use the free shuttle buses to avoid backtracking, as numerous points, including Hermit’s Rest, Maricopa Point, and Pipe Creek Vista, are serviced by the buses.

After departing the bus at Maricopa Point, before starting the Rim Trail to your right, angle left to view the canyon from Maricopa Point itself.  Looking to the west from the overlook, you can see the layers in the canyon very clearly, as the inner canyon immediately surrounding the Colorado River looks like a knife-gouged channel inside the outer walls on which you stand.  You can even see a little bit of the river in the canyon some 4500 feet below you and 7 miles away.  To the east is a classic postcard view of the canyon with an intricate and interesting section of ledges and sub-canyons.

View east from Maricopa Point

            When you have finished admiring this view, head east on the paved Rim Trail, as it departs Maricopa Point, heading slightly downhill.  Between here and Grand Canyon Village is probably my favorite section of the trail. The park road quickly disappears to the right, leaving just you and the canyon, but the location and narrowness of the pavement here means less traffic than you will encounter later. 

After 0.9 mile, you will arrive at the Trailview Overlook.  This viewpoint is unique because the platform is actually located beneath the rim.  By taking a brief detour to the right and down to the observation platform, you can become one of only 10% of all visitors to Grand Canyon National Park that actually goes into the canyon, even if it is only about 15 feet into the canyon.  Looking the opposite direction from the canyon at Trailview Overlook, you can see what appears to be a tall scaffolding.  In fact, this is the abandoned Orphan’s Mine.  You can learn more about the human history at Grand Canyon by attending one of the ranger talks offered in the Visitor Center.

Grand Canyon Village, as seen across edge of canyon

            As you continue east on the Rim Trail, you can see Grand Canyon Village across the edge of the canyon.  For the next half mile, you will gradually see the village get closer.  In the canyon between you and the village is another interesting sight: the Bright Angel Trail descending via innumerable switchbacks into the canyon.  Take time to notice how the trail curves around and manages to use the gaps in the ancient rocks to make a descent that, at almost any other point on the canyon rim, would be impossible except for rock climbers.

1.4 miles from Maricopa Point, the trail reaches its lowest point as you come out behind the shuttle bus transfer station.  The trail climbs slightly as it enters Grand Canyon Village.  The next 0.6 miles travels in a thin strip of flat land between the village hotels and shops on the right and the canyon on the left.  Due to its proximity to the hotels, this is the most heavily traveled section of the Rim Trail.  On the west side of the village, you will pass the trailhead for the fascinating Bright Angel Trail that you saw in the canyon earlier.  When I hiked this trail, a group of mules, used by outfitters to take visitors into the canyon, that had just made the arduous journey up the Bright Angel Trail out of the canyon walked in front of me.  They did not seem to be laboring as hard as I would have needed to had I made their journey.

Bright Angel Trail, as seen from the Rim Trail

            As I traveled through the village, a group of Pueblo Indians were drawing quite a crowd as the demonstrated their ancient tribal dances to captivated visitors.  The crowds will thin out as you complete your journey through the village.  Past the village, the trail is designed to be wheelchair accessible for its remaining distance to Pipe Creek Vista, so expect a wider path with more gentle grades than you experienced west of the village.  Indeed, at various points a piece of the old path remains where it has been rerouted to avoid a particularly steep area.

3 miles from Maricopa Point, a side trail heads right toward Market Plaza while the Rim Trail continues straight.  Several benches are placed along this section of trail that make for nice places to rest, especially on a hot desert day.  In another mile, the trail reaches Yavapai Point, home of Yavapai Observation Station.  Marked by Bright Angel Canyon across the river and a seemingly endless system of plateaus and peaks, Yavapai Point is home to the most famous view of Grand Canyon.  Take your time to admire the view.  Also take time of browse the station, which features large glass windows for excellent canyon viewing and some interpretive exhibits on the canyon and the life it contains.

Continuing east from Yavapai Point, it is another 1.1 miles of flat walking to Mather Point.  Large crowds gather at Mather Point because it is one of the few points near the village accessible by private car; most others require a shuttle bus.  If there are any clouds in the sky, notice how the clouds cast “small” shadows over various parts of the canyon; this gives another indication as to how large this canyon actually is.  While a short side trail leads right across the park road to the Visitor Center, the Visitor Center also serves as the transfer point between the Yaki Point bus route, which you will board at the end of this hike, and the Village bus route.  So you will have a better chance to catch one of the ranger talks at the Visitor Center later.

Overlook at Mather Point

            It is another 2.2 miles from Mather Point to the trail’s end at Pipe Creek Vista.  The trail climbs slightly away from Mather Point, after 1 mile, curves inland away from the canyon.  The last 1.2 miles to Pipe Creek Vista is a true desert hike.  Desert plants of all varieties surround you; the canyon can only be seen vaguely through the shrubs to the left.  This scenery lasts until you reach Pipe Creek Vista, where the canyon opens up again to the left.

The Rim Trail ends at Pipe Creek Vista, completing the hike.  You will need to board the Yaki Point bus route to return to Grand Canyon Village, making a transfer at Canyon View Information Plaza, which contains the Visitor Center.  The Yaki Point bus also takes visitors to its namesake Yaki Point, which offers another nice view from a point sticking well out into the canyon.  For some very different views, take a day or two to drive around to the North Rim.  Since the North Rim is 1200 feet higher on average than the South Rim, from the South Rim, all you see in canyon, while from the North Rim you can see the canyon and the San Francisco Mountains in the backdrop.  Whatever view you choose, take time of enjoy this unique wonder that offers scenery on a grand scale.

Petrified Forest National Park: Crystal Forest Trail (Blog Hike #194)

Trail: Crystal Forest Trail

Hike Location: Petrified Forest National Park

Geographic Location: east of Holbrook, AZ (34.86387, -109.79197)

Length: 0.8 miles

Difficulty: 0/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: May 2006

Overview: A flat, easy trail passing attractive and interesting petrified wood.

Park Information: http://www.nps.gov/pefo/

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=720476
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In northern Arizona, take I-40 to Petrified Forest National Park (exit 311).  Exit and go north to enter the park, paying the park entrance fee.  Follow the park road for nearly 20 miles to the signed Crystal Forest parking area, stopping to see some of the other sights along this scenic road.  The trail departs from the Crystal Forest parking area.

The hike: For some general comments on Petrified Forest National Park, see the previous hike.  While the northern part of the park features spectacular views of the Painted Desert, the southern part of the park features a very different kind of scenery.  The long rim and large basin are replaced by small, colorful buttes that stick up out of the pale yellow desert ground.  Also, the spectacular views are replaced by colorful pieces of petrified wood, some large and some small, scattered all along the ground.  In fact, the southern part of the park contains the nation’s largest protected collection of petrified wood.  It is this collection that is featured on this short paved trail.

Badlands formation near trailhead

            The blacktop trail departs the parking area, curves slightly to the left, and heads uphill toward a small shelter that contains a few benches.  Here the trail forks to form its loop.  For no reason, I chose to hike this trail counterclockwise, turning right here and using the left trail as the return route.

The trail meanders uphill through the “forest” of petrified wood which completely surrounds the trail.  Petrified wood literally means “wood turned to stone.”  The petrified wood seen here today represent ancient trees in which, through complex natural geologic processes have had their wood particles replaced by stone particles.  Most of the pieces of petrified wood are small, measuring only a few inches in length and diameter.  However, you will soon pass the first of several petrified logs which lay lengthwise along the trail.  These logs are over a foot in diameter and 20-50 feet in length.  Many of the logs have broken into log pieces as if a giant “stone” lumberjack has been at work.  Take your time and examine each piece of petrified wood carefully, as each one has a distinct color pattern caused by the different kinds of rock.  Remember that removing petrified wood from the park, even small pieces, is illegal and punishable by a large fine and jail time.  Park rangers regularly conduct searches at park exits, so be sure to observe these laws.

Petrified log on Crystal Forest Trail

Petrified log on Crystal Forest Trail

            The trail soon reaches its highest point where it takes a sharp turn left, still heading away from the parking lot.  On the late spring afternoon I hiked this trail, winds from a nearby thunderstorm were gusting and nearly blew me over on this small ridgetop.  At 0.4 miles, the trail curves left to drop down off of this ridge, still surrounded by petrified wood. 

Now heading back toward the parking area, the trail moves gently up and down, left and right, passing some of the largest logs on the trail.  At 0.75 miles, the trail returns to the shelter to close the loop.  50 downhill yards remain to return you to the parking area and complete the hike.

Petrified Forest National Park: Rim Trail (Blog Hike #193)

Trail: Rim Trail

Hike Location: Painted Desert, Petrified Forest National Park

Geographic Location: east of Holbrook, AZ (35.08009, -109.78360)

Length: 1.3 miles

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: May 2006

Overview: A flat trail with great views of the Painted Desert.

Park Information: http://www.nps.gov/pefo/

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=720474
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In northern Arizona, take I-40 to Petrified Forest National Park (exit 311).  Exit and go north to enter the park, paying the park entrance fee.  Follow the park road for nearly 2 miles to the signed parking area for Tawa Point.  Park in this parking lot.

The hike: Though Badlands rock formations occur at various points throughout the world, few are as colorful as those found in the desert of northeast Arizona.  For this reason, this section of land is often referred to as the Painted Desert.  Now the northern part of Petrified Forest National Park, millions of visitors come each year to see the colors of the Painted Desert.

Though the basin of the Painted Desert itself is protected as a wilderness area, marvelous views can be had from the rim, which is traversed by a 6 mile road (north of I-40) and this short hiking trail.  The road offers 9 designated overlooks (called “points), each of which gives a slightly different view of the Painted Desert.  All of these points are worth a stop.  This trail, the Rim Trail, connects two of these overlooks, Tawa Point and Kachina Point.  While you could simply drive to the point on each end, the trail offers a first-hand experience of the rim environment and provides an extended opportunity to view the colors of the Painted Desert.

From the parking lot for Tawa Point, walk down the blacktop path to the overlook itself and take a few minutes to observe the colorful horizontal bands that form the Painted Desert.  Each band represents a different kind of rock.  At the top is a dull white band, a very hard layer of sandstone.  Below the sandstone lies several bands of red-orange-yellow rocks, soft, crumbly rock that is easily eroded by water.  These bands are called claystone, and the colors are determined by the minerals found in the rock.  For example, the red bands have high concentrations of iron oxide.  Deep, steep gullies appear as tiny ditches from this point and show you where water runs off.  The desert basin itself is a dry, dusty yellow dotted with desert plants.

View into desert from Tawa Point

            The trail departs the left side of the overlook (as you look toward the desert) and descends slightly.  Small knee-high signs point out some of the plants that inhabit the rim, while larger interpretive signs give details about the surrounding rock formations.  Notice the white rock underneath your feet, as it is the same as the sandstone capping the formations in the basin to your right.

View down rim toward Kachina Point

            The trail dips down to pass over a few drainages, then rises back to the rim level.  All along the park road is visible to the left and the Painted Desert visible to the right.  Looking ahead you can see the orange stucco Painted Desert Inn, a National Historic Landmark, getting closer.  As you make your final approach to the inn, the trail becomes less well-defined, as several branches head out in various directions.  All of these branches eventually lead to the inn and the adjacent paved Kachina Point access trail, the end of the Rim Trail.

View north into wilderness area from Kachina Point

            The view from Kachina Point is similar to that at Tawa Point.  Restrooms are provided in season at Kachina Point.  Looking down into the basin from Kachina Point, one can see a trail running along through the desert into the wilderness area.  The beginning of this trail can be found on the north side of the inn.  While it is tempting to hike into the basin itself, one should not attempt such a trip without adequate preparation, including food and at least 1 gallon of water.  The basin looks shallow but is in fact nearly 1000 feet below you, and the trail into the basin is very steep and hot.  Unless such preparations have been made, you should retrace your steps along the Rim Trail to your car at Tawa Point to complete the hike.