Coopers Rock State Forest: Clay Furnace and Raven Rock (Blog Hike #777)

Trails: Eagle, Rhododendron, Clay Run, Roadside, and Raven Rock Trails

Hike Location: Coopers Rock State Forest

Geographic Location: east of Morgantown, WV (39.63796, -79.81515)

Length: 7 miles

Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate)

Date Hiked: October 2019

Overview: A loop plus an out-and-back featuring the historic Clay Iron Furnace and fantastic views of the Cheat River Gorge.

Forest Information: https://wvstateparks.com/park/coopers-rock-state-forest/

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=771161

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: East of Morgantown, take I-68 to the Coopers Rock exit (exit 15).  Exit and go south to enter the forest.  Drive the narrow and winding forest road 3 miles to the overlook parking area, where this hike begins.  If the overlook parking area is full, you can park at any of the roadside parking areas between the overlook parking area and McCollum Campground; this hike passes through all of those parking areas.

The hike: Sprawling over 12,747 acres that straddle I-68 just east of Morgantown, Coopers Rock State Forest is the largest state forest in West Virginia.  The state forest gets its name from a legendary fugitive who hid near the present-day main overlook.  The fugitive was a cooper by trade, and he continued to make and sell barrels from this hiding place while authorities were looking for him.

            During the early to mid 1800’s this area was a center for iron production; the remains of the historic Henry Clay Iron Furnace, the first steam-powered iron furnace in western Virginia, will be passed on this hike.  The state forest was established in 1936, and the depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked here from 1936 to 1942 to build many of the trails and buildings we use today.  The amenities at Coopers Rock State Forest include a 25-site developed campground, 4 picnic shelters, a concession stand that operates during summer months, and 50 miles of trails.  Thus, this state forest feels more like a major state park than a typical state forest.

            The 50 miles of trails mean that hikers have an almost unlimited number of routes to choose from.  The forest’s most popular hiking destinations are the Cheat River Gorge overlooks, the historic iron furnace, and some tall rock outcrops known as Rock City.  This hike takes you to the first two of those three destinations, and Rock City could be added-on if you wanted to do another short hike after this one.

Trail to main overlook

            You will want to go to the main Cheat River Gorge overlook located near the overlook parking area either before or after your hike.  I chose to go there first because I started my hike early in the morning and wanted to see the overlook before the crowds arrived.  A sign adjacent to the parking area that says “Overlook 500 feet” marks the way.

View upstream from main overlook

View downstream from main overlook

            The Cheat River Gorge is located about 20 miles upstream from the river’s mouth at the Monongahela River, and this overlook is located near the mouth of the gorge.  The stone overlook with wooden guardrails stands nearly 1000 feet above Cheat River, and it offers fantastic views upstream into the heart of the gorge and downstream toward Morgantown.  The dense broadleaf forest makes this vantage point popular for leaf peeping.  My visit on a Friday in early October came about 2 weeks too early for peak leaf color, but the view is excellent any time of year.

Start of Eagle Trail

After enjoying the view, retrace your steps to the overlook parking area and find the signed start of the Eagle Trail, which is located on the park road just north (right) of the concession building.  Marked with white plastic diamonds, the Eagle Trail descends moderately through a gap in the rock bluffs and passes an old run-down wooden cabin with moss covering its roof.  Where the Eagle Trail splits to form its loop, you can choose either option, but the one on the right offers the shorter route.

Just shy of 0.5 miles, you reach the access road for picnic shelter #3.  Leave the Eagle Trail’s loop by turning right on the access road to quickly reach the shelter’s parking loop, then turn left and walk ¼ of the way around the loop to find the signed start of the Rhododendron Trail.  Marked with orange plastic diamonds and orange paint blazes, the Rhododendron Trail descends mostly moderately for its 1 mile length.  The Rhododendron Trail’s route curves down the west end of the ridge that forms the Cheat River Gorge’s north rim.

Hiking the Rhododendron Trail

Ignore the Notmucha Trail and the Rock City Connector Trail, which exit right and left respectively.  The mature broadleaf forest features lots of oak and maple trees with a few tulip poplars.  Rhododendron and ferns crowd the understory.

After descending a fairly steep area, you reach the end of the Rhododendron Trail and a major trail intersection; no less than 5 different trails converge here.  This hike will eventually turn right to head east on the Clay Run Trail, but first cross a pair of wooden bridges to reach the historic Henry Clay Iron Furnace.  Between 1836 and 1847 this iron furnace operated around the clock and produced 4 tons of pig iron per day.  About 200 people worked here, and the furnace was the center of a community that featured about 100 dwellings, a store, a church, and a school.  Today the stone furnace sits in a secluded area of the woods, and I enjoyed sitting here and resting while I thought about what this area would have been like in its industrial days.

Henry Clay Iron Furnace

After viewing the iron furnace, exit the furnace area on the Clay Run Trail, which begins a gradual climb upstream beside its namesake watercourse.  The Clay Run Trail is marked with blue paint blazes, and you need to look for the blazes because several unmarked and unofficial trails pass through this area.  Also, because this land is a state forest and not a state park, hunting is a popular activity here.  I saw several hunters along this trail, so wear bright orange clothing during hunting season to prevent accidents.

At 1.8 miles, the trail joins an old road that it will follow for the next 1.2 miles.  The blue blazes tell you to angle left to continue the gradual climb on the old road.  The “trail” going right here is one of the unofficial trails; it leads to the Notmucha Trail you passed earlier.

Climbing on the Clay Run Trail

As the climb continues, the old road begins to follow a low-voltage powerline.  This section of trail is not particularly scenic, but I did see the only semblance of fall colors on my hike in this area.  A high-voltage powerline clearing allows views across Clay Run’s shallow ravine.

Reservoir at head of Clay Run ravine

3 miles into the hike, you reach the man-made reservoir at the head of the Clay Run ravine.  Scenic views appear across the shallow body of water, but no swimming, paddling, or fishing is allowed here.  Walk around the right side of the reservoir and climb the last few hundred feet of old road to reach the east end of the Clay Run Trail where it intersects the Roadside Trail.  Turn right to begin hiking southwest on the Roadside Trail.

True to its name, the unmarked but easy-to-follow Roadside Trail follows the main forest road from the forest entrance gate to the overlook parking area.  Mountain bikes are also allowed to use this trail, so step to the side if you hear one approaching.  At 3.6 miles, you reach the roadside parking area for the Raven Rock Trail; some picnic tables also sit here.  To get another fantastic view of the Cheat River Gorge, walk across the main park road and begin the signed Raven Rock Trail, which is marked with red plastic diamonds and red paint blazes.  If you are getting tired or running out of daylight, you can skip the Raven Rock Trail and hike the Roadside Trail another 0.8 miles to the overlook parking area where you started; the parking area at this trailhead makes it easy to come back and do the Raven Rock Trail on another day.

Start of Raven Rock Trail

The Raven Rock Trail descends on a gradual grade via a wide rocky treadway.  The large amount of small loose rock on this trail surface forces you to step carefully, but careful stepping should get you down without incident.  A couple of wet areas will also need to be negotiated, so I recommend waterproof boots for this hike.

Rocky treadway of Raven Rock Trail

4.5 miles into this hike (or 0.9 miles into the Raven Rock Trail), the trail curves right to leave the old road.  This turn is obvious if you are looking for the red trail markings. Next comes the steepest climb of this hike, as the trail gains about 125 vertical feet in less than 0.2 miles.

Just shy of 5 miles, you reach the overlook known as Raven Rock.  This overlook is more in the center of the Cheat River Gorge than the one you visited earlier, and the lack of guardrails gives it a more rustic feel.  Unfortunately, the high-voltage powerlines you passed under earlier also pass through here, but they only detract from the view a little.  Some rock ledges make nice spots to sit and enjoy the view.

View upstream from Raven Rock

View downstream from Raven Rock

Retrace your steps back to the Raven Rock Trail’s parking area, then turn left to continue the Roadside Trail.  The Roadside Trail undulates gently with ever-present noise from the forest entrance road coming from your left.  After passing through a couple more roadside parking/picnic areas, the trail comes out at the overlook parking area, which marks the end of the hike.  Be sure to check out the main overlook if you did not do so before the hike.  If you have some more energy, you could add the short and fairly flat 0.7 mile Rock City Trail, which also starts at this parking area and heads to the forest’s famous tall rock outcrops.

Booker T. Washington National Monument (Blog Hike #776)

Trails: Plantation and Jack-O-Lantern Branch Trails

Hike Location: Booker T. Washington National Monument

Geographic Location: northeast of Rocky Mount, VA (37.11982, -79.73205)

Length: 2.1 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: August 2019

Overview: A double loop around the tobacco plantation on which Booker T. Washington was born.

Monument Information: https://www.nps.gov/bowa/index.htm

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=761408

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Rocky Mount, take SR 122 north/east 15 miles to the monument entrance on the right.  Park in either of the small paved parking lots near the Visitor Center.

The hike: Perhaps no life exemplifies the challenges faced and determination exhibited by African-Americans in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s than the life of Booker T. Washington.  Born a slave on a tobacco plantation in about 1856 (slaves had no calendars to mark birthdays), Washington later wrote that the first time he realized he was a slave was when he was “awakened by my mother…kneeling over me…praying…that some day she and her children might be free.”  That freedom came when he was about 9 years old, but by the late 1800’s new oppression had risen in the form of disenfranchisement and Jim Crow laws.

            In the face of that oppression, Booker T. Washington became the dominant leader in the African-American community by championing education and entrepreneurship.  On point, Washington founded both the National Negro Business League and the Tuskegee Institute.  Through these institutions, Washington established a political and social coalition of middle-class blacks, church leaders, and white philanthropists that he led until his death in 1915.

            Today the grounds on which Booker T. Washington was born are preserved as Booker T. Washington National Monument, which was established in 1956 as the first national monument named after a person.  The Visitor Center features an informative and inspiring video about Washington’s life, and two trails form end-to-end loops around the grounds.  This hike uses both of the monument’s trails to form a grand tour of all the monument has to offer.

Start of trail behind Visitor Center

            Walk out the back door of the Visitor Center and follow the asphalt trail that heads first east and then south through a sunny mowed-grass area toward the reconstructed plantation.  Where the asphalt ends and the trail splits to form the Plantation Loop, choose the option on the right to pass beside the reconstructed slave cabin where Washington lived.  Next you pass the reconstructed smokehouse before descending steeply and entering the woods.

Reconstructed slave cabin

Reconstructed tobacco barn

            After a brief stint in the woods, you reach the reconstructed tobacco barn and a trail intersection.  The other arm of the Plantation Trail goes left, and we will go that way eventually.  To also hike the Jack-O-Lantern Branch Trail, angle right and begin heading downstream on a wide two-track dirt trail with Jack-O-Lantern Branch on your left.

Jack-O-Lantern Branch

            Tiny Jack-O-Lantern Branch is rockier and livelier than you might expect for a stream in this part of Virginia, and it even features a couple of small cascades.  The riparian forest is a dense mixture of oak, red cedar, sycamore, and black walnut.  Some numbered signs indicate the existence of an interpretive brochure, but the Visitor Center did not have one when I inquired.

            At 0.5 miles, the Jack-O-Lantern Branch Trail splits to form its loop.  To follow the numbered signs in increasing order, I continued straight here and used the right trail as my return route, thus hiking the loop clockwise.  A gradual descent ensues with Jack-O-Lantern Branch keeping you constant company.

Hiking along Jack-O-Lantern Branch

            Just shy of 1 mile, the trail curves right and climbs slightly to reach the short-cut trail, which exits right.  Angle left and descend again to stay on the outer-most loop.  Soon Gills Creek comes in sight on your left; Gills Creek is much larger than Jack-O-Lantern Branch.

            At 1.1 miles, the trail curves right and begins a moderate climb away from Gills Creek.  The difference between maximum and minimum elevations on this hike is only about 120 feet, but you gain most of that elevation in only 0.2 miles on this climb.  Where the short-cut trail rejoins from the right, look to the right for an old cemetery.

Entering the meadow

Horses outside of horse barn

            A service road exits left as the trail enters a sunny, grassy meadow, the only real meadow area on this hike.  After reentering the woods, a short but steep descent closes the loop.  Turn left to return to the reconstructed barn, then angle right to hike the other arm of the Plantation Trail.  The eastern arm of the Plantation Trail features a tobacco field, a corn crib, a horse barn with live horses, a chicken house with live chickens, and hog pens with live hogs.  Where the Plantation Trail’s loop closes, turn right to head back to the Visitor Center and complete the hike.

George Washington National Forest: Crabtree Falls (Blog Hike #775)

Trail: Crabtree Falls Trail

Hike Location: George Washington National Forest, Crabtree Falls Recreation Area

Geographic Location: northwest of Lovingston, VA (37.85104, -79.07993)

Length: 3.4 miles

Difficulty: 9/10 (Difficult)

Dates Hiked: March 2003, August 2019

Overview: An out-and-back, occasionally steep and occasionally rocky, along cascading Crabtree Falls.

Trail Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/gwj/recarea/?recid=73667

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=940867

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of US 29 and SR 56, take SR 56 west 16.8 miles to the signed national forest entrance for Crabtree Falls on the left.  Alternatively, reach this point by taking SR 56 east 6.4 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Pay the small entrance fee and park in either the upper or lower parking lots.

The hike: The Appalachian Mountains have many waterfalls named Crabtree Falls, but none of them match the size and scale of the Crabtree Falls in Nelson County, Virginia.  This Crabtree Falls drops 1200 feet over 5 major cascades, and it tumbles down the south side of the deep and steep ravine that contains the South Fork of the Tye River.  Taken together as a single water feature, the 5 cascades form the tallest waterfall in Virginia and maybe the tallest waterfall in the entire eastern United States depending on how you group other sequences of cascades on a common watercourse.

            Crabtree Falls is the centerpiece of George Washington National Forest’s Crabtree Falls Recreation Area, and the national forest’s Crabtree Falls Trail follows Crabtree Creek for 2.7 miles.  The lower-most 1.7 of those miles climb beside Crabtree Falls, offering fantastic views of all 5 cascades.  Doing those 1.7 miles as an out-and-back forms the 3.4 mile hike described here.  Note that Crabtree Falls is located fairly high in its watershed, so you need to come after a good rain to see the falls in their full glory.  I have been here twice, once in April 2003 and again in August 2019, and I had a nice hike and visit each time.

Trailhead: Crabtree Falls Trail

            The Crabtree Falls Trail starts at the rear of the upper parking area.  A sign for the Crabtree Falls Trail, a large information kiosk, and some benches mark the trailhead.  The first 500 feet are paved with asphalt, and the trail is wide enough and the grade gradual enough to allow wheelchairs and strollers access to the lowest cascade.  A small pioneer cemetery protected by a wooden fence is passed on the left less than 200 feet from the trailhead.

Small pioneer cemetery

            At 0.1 miles, the asphalt ends where you reach Crabtree Falls’ lower-most cascade.  This bottom cascade drops about 30 feet down a bare rock outcrop that features a lot of algae.  Several people have fallen to their deaths by climbing on the waterfall and slipping on the algae, so be sure to stay behind erected barriers.  A dense forest consisting of oak, tulip poplar, and a few pine trees makes for a cool, dark, and damp setting.

Crabtree Falls, lower-most cascade

            The dirt trail now begins the long series of switchbacks that climb alongside Crabtree Falls.  The east end of each switchback brings you back to the falls, and a new cascade seems to be seen with every switchback.  The second cascade features more boulders than the first, and some constructions such as steep wooden and stone steps aid the climb in several places.  Wooden mileposts appear at 0.1 mile intervals, and they simultaneously push you on by telling you how far you have come and warn you about how far you still have to go.  Pace yourself and feel free to turn around if your stamina wanes: the old motto “climbing up is optional but climbing down is mandatory” applies on this hike.

Climbing the switchbacks

            Continuing to climb the switchbacks, the third time you get back to the waterfall brings you to a bench that provides your first north-facing view across the Tye River ravine.  Crabtree Falls is a tall sheer cascade here.  The trail climbs beside the waterfall for a few hundred feet as it passes a small rocky cave.  Adventurous hikers can climb through the cave and re-emerge on the trail a few feet higher.

Peering through the cave

            More switchbacks lift you further up the hillside, and as you approach the rim of the ravine the understory becomes denser with ferns and stinging nettle.  On my visit some monarch butterflies were fluttering around some yellow violets that were in bloom, and I watched a blue-trailed skink dart beside the trail.  I also paused while a timber rattlesnake crossed my path, and I looked carefully to make sure it had no cousins nearby before I proceeded.

Crabtree Falls, upper-most cascade

             At 1.4 miles, you reach the base of the upper-most cascade.  Another drop over bare rock, this cascade may be the tallest of the five cascades that comprise Crabtree Falls, and it is definitely the brightest: the large bare rock outcrop allows plenty of sunlight to strike the water.  A sign tells you that this is the last waterfall view, and some people turn around here.  However, climbing for another 0.3 miles not only leads to the top of the falls but also to a fantastic view.

View at top of falls

A final long switchback lifts you to the top of Crabtree Falls, where you reach a trail intersection.  The Crabtree Falls Trail turns right to continue a more gradual but less developed climb along the west bank of Crabtree Creek, but you want to turn left and cross Crabtree Creek on a wooden footbridge to quickly arrive at the top-of-the-waterfall view.  A bench and overlook provide a fantastic northwest-facing view up the heavily forested Tye River ravine toward the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  After taking in the view, you can extend your hike by continuing up the less developed portion of the Crabtree Falls Trail, but eventually you will have to retrace your steps back down to the parking lot to complete the hike.

Morristown National Historical Park: Blue Trail (Blog Hike #774)

Trail: Blue Trail

Hike Location: Morristown National Historical Park

Geographic Location: southwest of Morristown, NJ (40.77231, -74.52797)

Length: 2.7 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: August 2019

Overview: A loop hike through a Revolutionary War campground with a distant view of Manhattan.

Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/morr/index.htm

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=769581

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In northern New Jersey, take I-287 to Harter Road (exit 33).  Exit and go west on Harter Rd.  Drive Harter Rd. west 0.9 miles to US 202 and turn left on US 202.  Drive US 202 south 2.2 miles to Tempe Wick Road and turn right on Tempe Wick Rd.  (Note: if you are coming from the south, you can also reach Tempe Wick Rd. by taking the Maple Avenue exit from I-287 and driving US 202 north 1.8 miles.)  Drive Tempe Wick Rd. west 1.4 miles to the signed park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, then drive the park’s Tour Road to the New York Brigade parking area, where this hike begins.

The hike: The date was December 1779 when Patriot General George Washington led his struggling Continental Army into Jockey Hollow near Morristown, New Jersey.  In that era armies rarely fought during the winter due to difficulty of movement and scarcity of supplies.  Washington chose Jockey Hollow as his winter campsite that year because it was close enough to British positions in New York City to keep an eye on the enemy but far enough away to discourage a direct confrontation.

In a matter of weeks thousands of acres of trees in Jockey Hollow were felled, and more than 1000 log huts rose in their place.  Each hut housed 12 soldiers, and each hut had to be built to precise specifications.  Any hut failing to meet the specifications was torn down and had to be rebuilt.

            The winter that ensued was one of the harshest and coldest on record; at least 20 snowstorms fell on Morristown.  After more than three years of war, the Continental Congress could not fund the army, and even necessities such as food and clothing were in short supply.  Washington later wrote that the help his army received from local people at Morristown “saved the army from dissolution, or starving.”  In May 1780 word came that France would help the Patriots, and in June the Jockey Hollow camp was dispersed when Washington’s army went off to fight for another summer.  While the American Revolution was not won at Morristown, the salient fact is that it was not lost there either.

            In 1933, Jockey Hollow was preserved as part of Morristown National Historical Park, which was America’s first national historical park.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked here during the 1930’s to build many of the trails and structures we use today.  The Wick House located near the Visitor Center preserves the farm of Henry Wick, one of the hollow’s few permanent residents during the Revolutionary War era, and the park offers a loop road that passes many of the hollow’s historic sites.

The Wick House

            For hikers, the park offers an extensive system of color-coded trails, and several good dayhikes present themselves.  The 6.5 mile White Trail forms a grand loop around the hollow, while the 2.25 mile Yellow Trail stays close to the loop road and focuses on the hollow’s historic sites.  This blog entry describes the Blue Trail, which forms a 2.7 mile loop around the northeast corner of Jockey Hollow and passes a scenic east-facing overlook.  Be warned that bugs are fairly bad here during the warmer months, so be sure to wear bug spray in season.

Trailhead for Blue Trail

            The trailhead for the Blue Trail is located behind the restroom building at the New York Brigade parking area.  Marked with rectangular blue paint blazes, the trail descends gradually first through sunny young forest and then through more mature forest with some large oak and tulip poplar trees.  At 0.3 miles, the White Trail joins from the right just before you reach Cat Swamp Pond.  A bench beside the pond makes a nice place to sit and do some wildlife viewing provided the bugs are not too bad.

Cat Swamp Pond

            The White and Blue Trails run conjointly for a few hundred feet until the White Trail exits left.  The Blue Trail continues on an eastward course as it climbs the north side of Mount Kemble, which rises to your right.  The difference between maximum and minimum elevations on this hike is only about 200 vertical feet, so none of the climbs on this hike are too strenuous.  Ignore trails that exit right or left to stay on the outer loop of the Blue Trail.

Hiking through mature forest

            At 0.8 miles, you reach the top of the hill and intersect a gravel road, where the blue blazes tell you to turn right.  Private property comes close on the left as the wide trail heads south following the contour line of Mount Kemble.  Near 1 mile into the hike, you reach a stone and mortar monument to Stark’s Brigade encampment site, a reminder of the soldiers who spent the winter of 1779-1780 here.

Stark's Brigade encampment site

Across from the monument sits the east-facing overlook that marks the scenic highlight of this hike.  Forested ridges make up the majority of the view, but on a clear day you can see Manhattan some 30 miles to the east.  When I came here on a hot and hazy afternoon in early August, I could just barely make out Manhattan’s skyscrapers although they are not discernible in the photo below.  Noisy US 202 below you provides another reminder of your proximity to New York City.  A bench here makes a nice place to sit, rest, and enjoy the view.

East-facing overlook

Past the overlook, the wide dirt trail continues to follow Mount Kemble’s contour line as it circles the south side of the mountain.  As the trail curves right, ignore a side trail that exits left as you begin to descend.  At 1.6 miles, the Blue Trail’s Inner Loop enters from the right as the Outer Loop descends a pair of mild switchbacks to begin following the Old Camp Road.  An interpretive sign tells you that this road was built by the Continental Army to connect two other roads.  Imagine being a soldier slogging through knee-deep snow while walking on this road.

Hiking the old road

The Old Camp Road crosses the outflow of Cat Swamp Pond on a wide wooden footbridge that marks the lowest elevation of this hike.  The White Trail crosses your route before you begin a gradual climb.  At 2.35 miles, the Old Camp Road ends at a gated intersection with the paved park loop road.  To continue the Blue Trail, walk around the vehicle gate, cross the paved road, reenter the forest on the other side of the road, and then turn right where the Orange Trail exits left.

The last 0.3 miles are a gradual to moderate climb with the park loop road close on the right, and this section is by far the least scenic part of the hike.  Soon the restroom building for the New York Brigade parking area comes into view across the road, thus signaling the end of the hike.  Be sure to check out the film and exhibits in the Visitor Center and the adjacent Wick House before you leave if you have not already done so.