Tuesday, October 10, 2023

Wilgus State Park (Blog Hike #961)

Trails: Pinnacle, Ridge, and Nature Trails
Hike Location: Wilgus State Park
Geographic Location: Ascutney, VT (43.38923, -72.40750)
Length: 2 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: A double loop with Connecticut River views from both near and far.
Park Information: https://vtstateparks.com/wilgus.html
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946864
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: (coming September 6)

Directions to the trailhead: In southeastern Vermont, take I-91 to SR 131 (exit 8).  Exit and go east on SR 131.  Drive SR 131 east 0.5 miles to US 5 and turn right on US 5.  Drive US 5 south 1.1 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left, pay the park entrance fee, and park in the gravel lot just south of the entrance.

The hike: Often overshadowed both literally and figuratively by nearby Mount Ascutney State Park, tiny Wilgus State Park protects 100 acres along the Connecticut River.  The park came to be in 1933 when William J. Wilgus, an engineer best known for designing New York's Grand Central Terminal, donated the land to the State of Vermont.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked here in 1935 and 1936, and they built the park's contact station and its famous Pinnacle Trail among other things.
            Today Wilgus State Park remains the only developed Vermont state park directly on the Connecticut River, which is amazing considering that the river forms the entire eastern boundary of Vermont.  The park's only amenities are a small developed campground, a group camp, river access, and 3 hiking trails.  The route described here uses all 3 of the park's trails, but it combines them in a clever way so as to visit all of the park's points of interest while minimizing distance and difficulty.
Crossing US 5 to start the hike
    
        To do the hardest part of the hike first, walk to the contact station and then angle left to cross US 5 and begin climbing on the Pinnacle Trail.  The trail climbs on a gradual to moderate grade via a single broad switchback to reach a trail intersection at 0.3 miles.  Both options here are marked with blue rectangles, but the Ridge Trail goes straight while the Pinnacle Trail goes right.  We will hike the Ridge Trail later, but for now turn right to stay on the Pinnacle Trail.
Intersecting the Ridge Trail
    
        After crossing a broad level shelf on the side of the hill, the north arm of the Ridge Trail exits left.  We will go that way on our way down, but again stay on the Pinnacle Trail by continuing straight.  Next comes the steepest and hardest part of the climb: the trail gains almost 150 feet of elevation in only 0.1 miles.  As I looked around at the surrounding terrain, I could see some ways this trail could be re-routed to lessen the grade, but for now it goes the way it goes.  Step carefully on this short but steep and rocky section.
Climbing the Pinnacle Trail
    
        At 0.5 miles, you reach the Pinnacle Trail's main viewpoint.  Although this viewpoint is uninspiring compared to others in New England, a narrow window through the trees allows you to look all of the way down to the Connecticut River, which is now roughly 300 vertical feet below you.  There is no comfortable place to sit up here, but you should still take a few minutes to enjoy the best view of the hike.
Viewpoint on Pinnacle Trail
    
        The Pinnacle Trail continues past the viewpoint and heads back downhill before ending at the park's campground.  While you could go that way, I also wanted to hike the Ridge Trail, so I backtracked to the first Ridge Trail junction I came to going this direction and angled right to begin the Ridge Trail.  The Ridge Trail forms a short and fairly level loop around the edge of the hillside shelf you hiked across before.  The forest here contains some 
maple and beech trees, but pine seems to be the most common tree in this park.  No additional views emerge due to the dense forest.
Hiking the Ridge Trail
    
        At the end of the Ridge Trail, continue straight to retrace your steps down the Pinnacle Trail and across US 5 to the contact station, which you reach 1.3 miles into the hike.  You could end your hike now.  Yet this park's claim to fame is its status as the only Vermont state park directly on the Connecticut River, and you have not yet hiked along the Connecticut River.  To address that oversight, walk around the contact station and descend slightly to reach the park's Nature Trail, which does indeed follow the bank of the river.  Turn right to begin hiking downstream with the river on your left.
Connecticut River overlook platform
    
        Soon you reach the wooden platform that is this park's main river overlook.  While a couple of trees grow between the platform and the river, this is a very peaceful spot to watch a relatively young and narrow Connecticut River.  I was hoping to do some bird and wildlife viewing here, but nothing seemed to be moving on the cloudy morning of my visit.  Continuing downstream, you pass beside the park's group camp just before the Nature Trail splits to form its loop.  For no particular reason, I chose to turn right and hike the short loop counterclockwise.
Hiking the Nature Trail
    
        The trail comes within sight of US 5 as it continues south.  As steep as the Pinnacle Trail was, the Nature Trail is equally flat, and the wide dirt treadway makes for easy going.  Upon reaching the park's south boundary at a shallow but steep ravine, the trail does a sweeping 180 degree turn to begin heading north with the river immediately to your right.  At 1.9 miles, you close the Nature Trail's loop.  Proceed through the group camp and angle left to return to your car and complete the hike.

Sunday, October 8, 2023

Taconic State Park: Copake Iron Works to Bash Bish Falls (Blog Hike #960)

Trails: Ironworks and Bash Bish Falls Trails
Hike Location: Taconic State Park, NY and Bash Bish Falls State Park, MA
Geographic Location: Copake Falls, NY (42.11903, -73.51411)
Length: 2.6 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: An interstate out-and-back to the tallest waterfall in Massachusetts.
New York Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/83/details.aspx
Massachusetts Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/bash-bish-falls-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946776
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: (coming September 20)

Directions to the trailhead: In southeast New York State, take the Taconic State Parkway to SR 23 (exit 88).  Exit and go east on SR 23.  Drive SR 23 east 7.1 miles to SR 22 and turn right on SR 22.  Drive SR 22 south 4 miles to SR 344 and turn left on SR 344.  The park entrance is on the left in another 0.4 miles.  Turn left to enter the park, then angle right to cross an iron grate bridge to reach the Copake Iron Works Historic Site, where this hike begins.

The hike: Stretching from north to south for 150 miles along New York State's eastern boundary, the Taconic Mountains are rich in natural and human history.  Geologically the Taconic Mountains are part of the Appalachian Mountain chain, but they have been pushed to their current location from 25 miles to the east: rocks in the Taconic Mountains are older than rocks in the strata beneath the mountains.  The name Taconic comes from a word used by the Delaware people that translates to "in the trees," a testament to the lush forests that grow in these mountains.
            In the 1700's and 1800's the Taconic Mountains were an important source of natural resources.  Wood, marble, limestone, slate, and iron ore were all extracted from these mountains.  The Copake Iron Works at this trailhead produced pig iron from 1848 until 1903, and it is one of the most intact rural iron works in the region.
            Many parks protect parts of the Taconic Mountains including Massachusetts' Mount Greylock State Reservation and Vermont's Mount Equinox, but New York's namesake Taconic State Park may be the best of the lot.  Established in 1926 when New York State purchased the old Copake Iron Works, Taconic State Park today is part of the largest forested area between Virginia and Maine.  The park offers a 106-site developed campground, 18 cabins, swimming in a 40-foot deep flooded iron ore pit, biking on the Harlem Valley Rail Trail, and many miles of hiking trails.  
            For hikers, the park's most popular trail is the Bash Bish Falls Trail.  This trail follows Bash Bish Brook upstream into Massachusetts' adjacent Bash Bish Falls State Park, the namesake of which is the tallest waterfall in Massachusetts.  Many people just hike to the waterfall, but adding a fairly flat 0.5 miles each way lets you start at the old Copake Iron Works, so why not visit the old iron works too?  This hike forms an out-and-back between the old iron works and Bash Bish Falls, thus allowing you to see both fantastic natural scenery and interesting human history all in one moderate hike.
Iron Works Museum at trailhead
Copake blast furnace
    
        Either before or after your hike, you will want to stop in the Iron Works Museum, a brick building that is the old blowing engine house.  Today this building serves as the Visitor Center for the historic site, and it offers a film and exhibits about the site.  Across the gravel road from the Visitor Center stands the old blast furnace.  A large recently-built shelter protects the furnace from the elements, and the furnace is in great shape considering its age.
Start of Ironworks Trail
    
        When you are done admiring the furnace and reading the interpretive signs, exit the rear (east side) of the historic area to pick up the Ironworks Trail.  A small brown sign that reads "Trail to Bash Bish Falls" marks the start of the Ironworks Trail.  The wide dirt/gravel trail heads into the woods and climbs slightly before assuming a more level grade.  More remnants of the iron works can be seen here including the bed of the railroad that served Copake and a couple of ponds that supplied water for the furnace.
Day Pond, water source for iron furnace
    
        After hiking a narrow section of trail above Bash Bish Brook, you reach the east end of the Ironworks Trail where it intersects the park's cabin road at 0.4 miles.  To continue to Bash Bish Falls, turn left on the gravel road, cross Bash Bish Brook on the road's bridge, and climb slightly to reach the main parking lot for Bash Bish Falls on SR 344.  Most people start their hike to Bash Bish Falls here.  Walk to the far (east) side of the parking lot and pick up the wide gravel Bash Bish Falls Trail to join them.
Start of Bash Bish Falls Trail
    
        The trail dips slightly before beginning the persistent gradual to moderate climb toward Bash Bish Falls.  A couple of benches overlook Bash Bish Brook, which cascades and flows pleasantly to the right.  The beautiful mature forest is dominated by 
maple, birch, and pine trees with a few redbud trees mixed in.  Overall, the ambiance on this trail is sublime.
Bash Bish Brook
    
        At 1.1 miles, you cross the state line into Massachusetts.  Technically you also exit New York's Taconic State Park and enter Massachusetts' Bash Bish Falls State Park, but the scenery and trail conditions do not change significantly.  1000 feet later, you reach the overlook area for Bash Bish Falls.
Crossing the state line
    
        Bash Bish Falls is a tall rocky waterfall that drops and cascades for about 80 feet via several lines into a large plunge pool.  The trail to the base of the falls was closed on my visit, but I still got a good view from the overlook area.  This overlook may be the most scenic spot I visited on my September 2023 hiking trip to Massachusetts, so take some time to enjoy the scenery.
Bash Bish Falls
    
        Due to recent trail closures, the trail ends at the waterfall overlook, so next you have to retrace your steps 1.3 miles to the old Copake Iron Works to complete your hike.  Before you leave, several other buildings associated with the old iron works beckon your exploration.  Also, the iron works' old ore bed has been turned into a swimming area, and it sits behind the park office if temperatures are warm enough to warrant taking a dip.

Thursday, October 5, 2023

Mount Greylock State Reservation: Jones Nose/Rounds Rock Loop (Blog Hike #959)

Trails: Woodason Spring, Rounds Rock, and Northrop Trails
Hike Location: Mount Greylock State Reservation
Geographic Location: north of Pittsfield, MA
Length: 2.5 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: A loop hike, sometimes rocky and sometimes muddy, to views from Rounds Rock.
Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/mount-greylock-state-reservation
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946649
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: (coming July 12)

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Pittsfield, take US 7 north 5.7 miles to Greylock Road.  Turn softly right to continue heading north on Greylock Rd.  Drive Greylock Rd. north 1.1 miles to Rockwell Road, which is also Mount Greylock's summit road.  Turn softly left to begin climbing on Rockwell Rd.  Drive Rockwell Rd. 4.3 miles to the Jones Nose Trailhead on your right on Mount Greylock's south face.  Park at this trailhead, where this hike begins.

The hike: Rising to 3491 feet above sea level in Massachusetts' rural northwest corner, Mount Greylock is the highest point in Massachusetts.  The summit is punctuated by the iconic 93-foot tall Veterans War Memorial Tower, which was constructed in 1931-32 to honor veterans of World War I.  A spiral staircase leads to the top of the tower, which on a clear day offers views of 4 states: Connecticut, New York, Vermont, and of course Massachusetts.  Although Mount Greylock is often thought of as part of Massachusetts' Berkshire Mountains, geologically it is part of the Taconic Mountains, which run for 150 miles along New York State's eastern boundary.  The Taconic Mountains offer many other fantastic hiking opportunities including Bash Bish Falls and Mount Equinox; both of those hikes are described elsewhere in this trail journal.
            Since 1898 Mount Greylock has been protected by Mount Greylock State Reservation, which is the oldest wilderness state park in Massachusetts.  True to its wilderness status, most of the mountain is maintained in its natural state, and the park offers only a primitive campground, a 16-mile seasonal summit road, and numerous hiking trails as amenities.  The summit road alternates between steep and relatively flat sections, and it offers summit access from both the south and the north.  Thus, the summit is a very popular place in the summer.
            Several hiking trails lead to Mount Greylock's summit, but all of them are rather steep and primitive.  Thus, I chose the more manageable loop hike described here on the mountain's south flank.  This hike leads to Rounds Rock, which is one of Mount Greylock's many subpeaks.  Therefore, this hike offers nice views and significant distance through mature forest without pegging the difficulty meter.
Woodason Spring Trail leaving Jones Nose Trailhead
    
        From the Jones Nose Trailhead, pick up the Woodason Spring Trail as it heads south across a sunny meadow that was covered with goldenrod in bloom when I came here in early September.  After crossing the meadow, the trail enters the woods and descends moderately to begin following a tributary of Kitchen Brook.  Powder blue paint blazes now mark the way.  
Leaving the meadow and entering the woods
    
        When the tributary of Kitchen Brook comes within earshot on the left, the trail reaches a local minimum in elevation and begins climbing.  The damp and dense forest features maple and birch trees with a dense understory that includes ferns.  Some wet areas will be encountered, but short wooden plank bridges get you over the wettest areas.  Overall, the trail is narrow and rooty, and the required careful stepping makes the going slower than you might expect.

Climbing away from Kitchen Brook
    
        At 0.75 miles, you cross the summit road at the Rounds Rock Trailhead.  This trailhead is an alternate starting point for this hike, but the parking here is not as good as at the Jones Nose Trailhead where this description began.  Now west of the summit road, the trail continues climbing before splitting to form the Rounds Rock Loop.  Continue straight to begin hiking the loop clockwise.
Rocky trail near Rounds Rock
    
        Soon the trail flattens out but becomes more rocky as you top the summit of Rounds Rock.  The summit of Rounds Rock offers no views, but at 1.1 miles you reach the first of two spur trails that exit left to fantastic viewpoints.  The first viewpoint looks due south down the descending spine of Mount Greylock, while the second viewpoint looks more west toward East Mountain, Beoadic Mountain, and New York State.  Some rocks here make nice places to sit, rest, and enjoy a trail snack near the midpoint of this hike while soaking up the views.
1st Rounds Rock viewpoint
2nd Rounds Rock viewpoint
    
        Just past the second viewpoint, you reach another trail fork.  Going right would continue around the Rounds Rock Loop, which includes the site of a small plane crash.  This hike turns left to begin a connector trail that leads down to the Northrop Trail, the final leg of this hike.  The descent is gradual at first, but soon you will need to climb down some stone ledges that may require you to use your hands as well as your feet.  These ledges are the hardest part of this hike, so take care while descending.
            At 1.45 miles, you intersect the Northrop Trail, which goes left and right.  Turn right to head back to the Jones Nose Trailhead where you began.  The Northrop Trail descends and then ascends but on gradual grades as it heads the general direction of north.  Several very muddy areas had to be negotiated on my visit, and the Northrop Trail is my least favorite trail on this hike.
Hiking the Northrop Trail
    
        After passing an interesting pile of large boulders, a gentle climb brings you to within feet of the summit road's shoulder.  Turn right to hike the short spur trail through the meadow that returns you to the Jones Nose Trailhead to complete the hike.  A large ground hog welcomed me back to the trailhead when I did this hike.  Before you leave, you should for sure drive the rest of the summit road up to Mount Greylock's summit.  Not only are the views fantastic on a clear day, but the 
Veterans War Memorial Tower makes an iconic backdrop for a group photo or a selfie.
Big Dave atop Mount Greylock

Monday, October 2, 2023

Chicopee Memorial State Park: Chicopee Reservoir Loop (Blog Hike #958)

Trails: Asphalt, Blue, and White Trails
Hike Location: Chicopee Memorial State Park
Geographic Location: Chicopee, MA (42.17067, -72.54675)
Length: 3 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: A loose loop around Chicopee Reservoir.
Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/chicopee-memorial-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946545
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: (coming May 17)

Directions to the trailhead: On the northeast side of Springfield, take I-291 to its north end at the Massachusetts Turnpike (Turnpike exit 51).  Where I-291 ends, continue north on Burnett Road 0.7 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, and park in the main parking lot near the picnic shelter and beach.

The hike: The Commonwealth of Massachusetts did not start managing the land that comprises today's Chicopee Memorial State Park until the 1960's, but the land's history as parkland dates all the way back to 1893.  Once known as Cooley Brook Reservoir and Watershed, today's park is the site of three reservoirs dating to 1896, 1912, and 1926 that provide drinking water for the City of Chicopee.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) planted trees, built roads, and laid down trails here from 1935 to 1937 in addition to stabilizing the shores of the reservoirs.
            Visitors to the park today find a fantastic green oasis in the middle of suburban Springfield.  The 562 acre day-use park offers a swimming beach, fishing with restrictions, picnic areas, and many miles of trails open to hikers and mountain bikers.  Many routes are possible through this park's extensive trail system, and the route described here forms a loose loop around the park's main reservoir.  Thus, this hike combines excellent lake views with nice forest and wetland scenery.
Starting the loop
    
        From the main parking lot, head down the closed paved road that goes west with the beach area and main reservoir on your right.  Soon the asphalt road turns into an asphalt trail as it exits the park's developed area and heads downhill below the Chicopee Reservoir Dam.  Below the dam, the trail curves right and crosses a wetland area, which is a great place to do some bird watching.  Unfortunately, I did this hike in a light rain, and the rain seemed to be keeping most wildlife in obscure dry areas where I could not see them.
Wetland below Chicopee Reservoir Dam
    
        At 0.6 miles, the asphalt trail forks to form its loop.  To make my hike a little longer, I chose to turn left and start heading clockwise around the loop.  The trail climbs away from the wetland area following what appears to be an old road bed.  Oak trees dominate the forest here, but some pine groves possibly planted by the CCC will also appear.  I saw a somewhat rare black squirrel on this part of the hike.
Climbing away from the wetland
    
        The trail starts to level out just before you pass under a power line.  Stay with the asphalt trail for now, ignoring dirt mountain bike trails that exit left and right.  At 1.25 miles, the trail curves right as the Westover Air Reserve Base comes into view straight ahead and to the left.  Operated by the United States Air Force, Westover is one of the largest military installations in New England, and it features the longest runway in Massachusetts.  Of course the base is off limits to hikers, so you should not cross the chain link fence that surrounds the base.
Starting the Fenceline Trail
    
        At 1.6 miles, you pass the south edge of the air reserve base, which in turn is another trail intersection.  If you wanted a short hike or if you wanted to stay on the asphalt, you could continue straight and just hike the asphalt loop, which is designated as this park's Healthy Heart Trail.  To do a full loop around the reservoir and see some of the park's dirt trails, turn left to begin heading east on a trail some maps call the Fenceline Trail.
Hiking the Fenceline Trail
    
        Marked with blue paint blazes, the aptly-named Fenceline Trail stays close to the air base's chain link fence on the left.  The undulations atop this bluff are gradual, and a couple of views of the reservoir well below you can be had to the right.  While the fenced air base does not make the most inspiring hiking, the going is quite easy.  
Just past 2.1 miles, where the fence curves to the left, you want to angle right and descend via eroded trail on a brief moderate grade.  Upon reaching the bottom of the hill, turn right to cross Cooley Brook on a wooden footbridge.
Crossing Cooley Brook
    
        The remainder of the hike follows white and blue blazes on a wide dirt trail that appears to be an old road.  Cooley Brook sits just through the trees to the right.  After a brief climb, turn right to keep following the white and blue blazes.  The trail narrows, and you reach the headwaters of Chicopee Reservoir as you enter a pleasant pine tree planting.  3 miles into the hike, you return to the picnic area and main parking lot to complete the hike.