Red Clay State Historic Park (Blog Hike #233)

Trails: Blue Hole and Council of Trees Trails

Hike Location: Red Clay State Historic Park

Geographic Location: south of Cleveland, TN (34.99427, -84.94540)

Length: 2.5 miles

Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)

Dates Hiked: March 2008, November 2015

Overview: A secluded hike yielding insights into Cherokee history.

Park Information: https://tnstateparks.com/parks/red-clay
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=721643
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the north side of Chattanooga, take I-75 to SR 417 (exit 7).  Exit and go east on SR 417.  Take SR 417 east for 15 miles (follow signs carefully: it makes many turns onto different-named roads) to Red Clay Park Road.  Turn right on Red Clay Park Road.  Follow Red Clay Park Rd. to the park entrance at its end.  Park in the parking lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: Located east of Chattanooga just yards from the Georgia line, Red Clay State Historic Park today is one of those secluded places you don’t accidentally wander into, but that has not always been the case. From 1832 through 1838, Red Clay functioned as the main highway of the Cherokee nation, as Cherokee Indians fled increasingly harsh treatment in Georgia for the (comparatively) friendlier confines of Tennessee.  Due to its location so close to the border, Red Clay became a governmental and cultural center for the Cherokees.

            A large open-air council house stood on the grounds where the nation’s leaders convened.  The hot issue of the day was relocation: some leaders favored remaining in the east and fighting, politically and militarily, for the land they had occupied for hundreds of years, while others favored trading those lands to the United States government in exchange for cash compensation and “comparable land” in Oklahoma.  The arguments were intense, but the latter party won in the end, and in 1838 the nation abandoned Red Clay and moved to Oklahoma in the infamous relocation now known as the Trail of Tears.

            Today the historic state park does a fabulous job telling the story of these turbulent years for the Cherokee.  Every visitor to Red Clay should stop in the Visitor Center where a short film describes the history at this site.  The park also features a large picnic shelter, a recreated Cherokee village (including the council house) a large amphitheater, and, away from all of that, 3 miles of hiking trails.  This hike will explore most of these trails and visit every major point of interest in the park.

Gazebo at trailhead

            From the Visitor Center, begin by walking through the gazebo attached to the Visitor Center and pick up the paved trail which heads straight through a grassy area.  The recreated village can be seen ahead and to the left, but where the paved trail heads left for that area, continue straight to begin the signed Blue Hole Nature Trail.  We will tour the village at the end of the hike.

            The trail curves left and heads down some steps to arrive at Council Springs, commonly known as Blue Hole.  The spring is 14 feet deep and produces 350 gallons of clear water each minute.  Such a large spring would easily have given Red Clay a perpetual supply of clean, cool water.  The spring has a blue tint to it, hence the name, but looking at the water flowing downstream out of the spring gives an idea of how clean the water actually is.

Council Springs/Blue Hole

            The trail leaves the spring and heads south through a narrow strip of young forest with the stream from the spring on your left and a gradual upslope to your right.  After following the stream for 0.3 miles, a sign directs you to turn right to begin the Council of Trees Trail.  In about an hour we will arrive back at this intersection and take the trail that heads left back toward the village, but for now angle right as the sign suggests.

            The trail heads moderately uphill, passes over a few wet spots, crosses an old dirt roadbed, and after another 0.3 miles arrives at a trail intersection that marks the beginning of the loop portion of the Council of Trees Trail.  To save the interesting overlook for last, this description will turn right here and use the left trail as the return route.  Descending gradually at first, the trail treads along a fairly steep hillside through some nice hardwood forest.

            Soon the trail angles left to take on the slope more directly, heading uphill.  At the top of this hill, the trail comes out behind the large amphitheater.  With seating for 500, this amphitheater features towers behind the audience for cameras and is used for various group presentations.  A large picnic pavilion just beyond the amphitheater also provides accommodations for park visitors.

Hiking the Council of Trees Trail

            The trail angles left around the back of the amphitheater and arrives at a large wooden sign announcing the Council of Trees Trail.  This sign is used to access the trail from the picnic pavilion/amphitheater parking lot, a lot that could be used as an alternate starting point for this hike.  Turn left at this sign to continue around the Council of Trees loop.

            For the next 0.4 miles the gravel trail heads gradually uphill first through and then around a shallow ravine.  The mixture of pines and hardwoods make this some of the nicest forest in the park.  Curving south, the trail stays just below the crest of the hill as it maintains a fairly constant elevation.  Make sure to stay on the trail and away from private property to the right.

            1.4 miles into the hike, you will arrive at the overlook.  The trees prevent much of a view, so the most interesting item at the overlook may be the structure itself.  Made almost entirely of stone, the depression-era CCC structure stands about 14 feet tall at its highest point and features two platforms for observation.  Even if the views do not overwhelm you with scenery, the wooden benches on top of the platform make for nice places to rest about two-thirds of the way through this hike.

CCC overlook

            The trail leaves the overlook to the right and begins a long, moderate descent as it curves left below the overlook, which can be seen uphill and to the left.  This section of trail has a minor erosion problem; don’t make it worse by taking a steep shortcut straight downhill from the overlook.  Occasional traffic along seldom-used Red Clay Road can be heard just through the trees on the right.

            After another 0.2 miles of fairly level walking along the hillside, you will close the loop, as the trail back to Blue Hole heads steeply downhill to the right.  Make sure to watch for this trail carefully, as this intersection is unsigned.  If you start ascending appreciably again, you have started another trip around the loop and need to backtrack.

            After retracing your steps back along the connector trail to the Blue Hole Trail, angle right, cross the stream on a wooden footbridge.  Where you approach a grassy clearing, turn left to remain in the forest.  After another 400 feet, the trail comes out in the rear of the recreated Cherokee village.  Take your time to walk around the blacktop path (wheelchair accessible) and read the interpretive signs beside each of the buildings.  These buildings include a barn, a main house, several guest houses, and the council house mentioned above.  After touring the village, pass back though the gazebo to the parking lot in front of the Visitor Center to complete the hike.

Recreated Cherokee council house