Gooseberry Falls State Park: Fifth Falls Trail (Blog Hike #313)

Trail: Fifth Falls Trail

Hike Location: Gooseberry Falls State Park
Geographic Location: northeast of Two Harbors, MN (47.13997, -91.47000)
Length: 2.7 miles

Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)
Dates Hiked: July 2010, July 2017
Overview: A semi-loop passing all 5 waterfalls of the Gooseberry River.

Park Information: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/park.html?id=spk00172#homepage

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=722609
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Two Harbors, take SR 61 north 13 miles to the signed park entrance on the right.  Park in one of the large blacktop parking areas near the Visitor Center.  The hike starts at the rear of the Visitor Center.

The hike: The Gooseberry River has been a famous destination for centuries.  In 1670, the river appeared on maps from some of the earliest French explorers of Lake Superior.  In the late 1800’s, fishermen and loggers flocked to the river for its natural resources.  In 1900, the Nestor Logging Company built its headquarters at the mouth of the river.

            20 years later, logging was on its way out, and tourism was on its way in.  In order to keep the area around Gooseberry Falls accessible to everyone, the Minnesota State Legislature authorized preservation of the area.  In 1934, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) arrived and began building structures that would serve the state park.  You will see some of these structures on the hike described here.  The state park opened in 1937, making it one of the oldest state parks in the state and the nation.

            Visitors today still reap the rewards of the preservation decision made over 75 years ago.  The Gooseberry River remains a popular destination for tourists, so come early or plan an off-season visit if you want solitude.  The main attraction remains the waterfalls, and 4 of the 5 waterfalls can be seen on this fantastic hike.

Path starting behind Visitor Center

            Start by taking the paved path that departs the back of the Visitor Center.  Where the path forks, take the right fork, heading for Middle and Lower Falls.  Descend a pair of staircases to arrive at the first rocky overlook, this one of Middle Falls.   Middle Falls is a stair-step waterfall about 35 feet in height.  The black rock cliffs on either side frame the falls nicely, and the small plunge pool makes for a nice place to take a cold dip in the summer.  Also, if you look at the cliff across the river, you will see a small rock house.

Middle Falls

            To reach Lower Falls, turn right and head down some steps.  Lower Falls looks much like Middle Falls.  Continue this hike by climbing the concrete steps to the left of the observation deck, passing the Middle Falls overlook on the way.  At the top of the steps, turn right on a paved trail which heads under the SR 61 bridge.  Before heading under the bridge, notice the elaborate stone Gateway Plaza built by the CCC uphill to your left.  The Plaza contains some interpretive displays, and it is worth a visit when you return along this same trail.

            The catwalk heading across the river under the SR 61 bridge will be our return route.  For now you should continue straight and soon arrive at an overlook of Upper Falls.  This waterfall looks very similar to Middle Falls in terms of height, volume, and shape.  Past the overlook, the trail narrows and turns to dirt as it climbs gradually with the river on the right.

Upper Falls

            After following a power line clearing for a few hundred feet, the trail arrives at an intersection with a wide mountain bike trail.  Turning left would lead back to the Gateway Plaza, while turning right would lead across an iron-wood bridge to our eventual return route on the opposite side.  To continue to Fifth Falls, continue straight on the narrow, dirt hiking-only trail.

            The trail soon climbs to a high bluff some 60 feet above the river.  At 0.5 miles, you intersect another wide, sunny trail.  Turn right here, tread over the high bluff, then turn right again to return to the narrower trail along the river.  The forest along this part of the river consists of second growth aspen, birch, maple, and pine with a dense, grassy understory.

Gooseberry River

            Near 1 mile, the trail climbs some dark-colored bare rock as the river cascades down the same rock to your right.  You don’t have to travel to Hawaii to walk on former lava flow, for that is exactly what is beneath your feet right now.  Fortunately, this flow is much older than the ones in the Pacific Rim, so there is little danger of additional volcanic activity in Minnesota.  For the most part, the rock is bare, but a few small pine trees and some lichens manage to eek out an existence on the ancient flow.

Walking atop the ancient lava flow

            Past the bare rock, the trail climbs to pass a wooden trail shelter and arrive at an intersection with the Superior Hiking Trail, a long backpack trail which leads up the Minnesota North Shore.  Turn right on the Superior Hiking Trail and cross the Gooseberry River on a high iron-wood bridge.  In the river to your left is Fifth Falls, the destination of this hike.  Fifth Falls is considerably shorter than the waterfalls you passed earlier, but it is still framed nicely by rocks and trees, plus it is more secluded.  A bench on the far side of the bridge allows you to rest and observe the waterfall at the midpoint of this hike.

Fifth Falls

            For the rest of its journey, the Fifth Falls Trail shares treadway with the Superior Hiking Trail.  The Superior Hiking Trail is blazed with blue blazes and fancy metal signs.  The trail stays high above the river as it descends gently with the river on the right.  The path here is wider and better maintained than the one you came up on, so the going will be significantly easier.

            1.9 miles into the hike, you reach the east side of the first iron-wood bridge, where you should continue straight on the Superior Hiking Trail.  At 2.5 miles, the SR 61 bridge comes back into sight, and the Superior Hiking Trail and Fifth Falls Trails part ways.  The Superior Hiking Trail heads left for Split Rock Lighthouse, so you should bear right to stay close to the river.

            Just past the split, you will pass the small stone CCC-constructed building that served as the park’s original Visitor Center.  You soon arrive under the SR 61 bridge, where a right turn will take you across the catwalk and close the loop portion of this hike.  A left turn and gradual downhill walk on the paved path will return you to the modern Visitor Center and complete the hike.