Dry Tortugas National Park: Fort Jefferson (Blog Hike #238)

Trails: Fort Tour and Moat Wall Trails

Hike Location: Dry Tortugas National Park

Geographic Location: in the Gulf of Mexico west of Key West, FL (24.62758, -82.87242)

Length: 1.6 miles

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: May 2008

Overview: A memorable walk through historic and remote Fort Jefferson.

Park Information: http://www.nps.gov/drto
Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=120654
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: Not applicable; see below.

The hike: Accessible only by boat or seaplane, Dry Tortugas National Park is perhaps the most remote and difficult to access park in the United States national park system.  Nevertheless, a visit to the Dry Tortugas is one you will not soon forget, for in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, you will run across a most unexpected discovery: a fort!  Specifically, Fort Jefferson, built in the mid 1800’s, was the largest brick fort in the United States at the time of its construction.

            Human history in the Dry Tortugas began long before the fort was constructed.  In 1513, the Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon first put the island on the map.  He called the islands Las Tortugas (Spanish for “turtles”) due to the large number of sea turtles he found there.  The name “Dry” was added later to warn sailors that no fresh water could be found on these islands.

            In the early 1800’s, the United States government decided to build a series of forts along the east coast to protect coastal shipping channels from pirate attacks.  With its location at the southwestern end of the Gulf Stream and at the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, the Dry Tortugas made an ideal location for the last of these forts.  Despite some concerns about whether the small sandy island could support such a large structure (concerns that turned out to be well founded), construction on Fort Jefferson began in 1846.  Due to shortages of building materials and the Civil War, the fort was never fully completed, and no military action was ever seen at the fort.  The fort was abandoned in 1874, proclaimed a national monument in 1935, and redesignated as Dry Tortugas National Park in 1992.

            Today the easiest way to access the national park is by daily departures of commercial ferries or seaplanes out of Key West.  Since 70 miles of open waters must be traversed to reach the fort, the ride will probably not be smooth and easy, but for those willing to make the journey an unforgettable trip through beautiful natural environments and unique human history awaits.  This location gives the proverbial feeling of being stranded on a desert island, and in fact overnight camping is allowed in designated areas on the island.  Whether you are staying the night or simply arriving and leaving on the same day, you will want to explore everything the fort has to offer, and the tour suggested here will let you do just that.

Fort Jefferson entrance

            From the public boat dock, cross the moat on a wooden bridge and enter the fort.  This bridge provides the only access to the fort, so you will have to exit this same door when you leave.  With water all around you and the sun directly overhead (in the summer, at least), it can be a little hard to keep your sense of direction, but as you enter the fort you are walking just north of west.  The self-guided tour of the fort, marked by an outline of a Civil War-era soldier, begins at a sign just inside the fort walls.

            The fort features three distinct levels, and the tour begins on the lowest level, the ground level.  Notice how thick and sultry the air feels on the floor of the fort, a result of the brick walls blocking airflow from outside.  Imagine how Union soldiers dressed in wool uniforms would have felt in this fort!  Tour stops point out the various ruined buildings in the fort including the gunpowder store, the sleeping quarters, and the original lighthouse.  Also, notice how the floor of the lower level often has a slope to it, a result of the fort’s foundation settling into the sand.

Parade grounds inside Fort Jefferson

            The tour soon leads up to the second level.  The fort is shaped like a hexagon, and each corner of the hexagon features a stone spiral staircase that connects all three levels.  The second level features some of the nicest brick arches in the fort.  These arches are not only easier than a flat surface to build but also hold up better under enemy fire.  Notice the unusual cave-like stalactites and stalagmites formed under some of these arches, a result of water washing though limestone gravel located on the top level.  Also, notice the nice breeze drifting through the holes in the walls on this level, making this level much more comfortable than the ground level.  Finally, notice the whitewash that covers some of the walls and ceilings.  This whitewash was added so that more light would be reflected around the fort’s corridors, making for a less dreary living environment and easier, safer walking at night.

Arches on second level

            The tour finally leads to the top level, the roof of the fort.  A nice sea breeze blows up here, and some great views of the fort and its surroundings can be had.  The fort’s lighthouse lies directly behind the tour’s point of exit onto the roof.  This lighthouse no longer operates, as it was replaced by Loggerhead Lighthouse in 1857.  Loggerhead Lighthouse is visible on Loggerhead Key to the west behind the fort’s lighthouse.  You never know what you might see from the roof of the fort.  In addition to the usual sightings of birds on nearby Bush Key and boats entering and leaving the dock, you might see a boat carrying refugees from Cuba, as Dry Tortugas is one of the most popular landing points for such boats.  Indeed, on my visit I could see a Coast Guard ship anchored just east of the island patrolling these waters for that type of visitor.

View of fort entrance from roof

            After a brief walk across the roof of the fort, the tour route heads down another of the spiral staircases to the bottom level and the tour’s last stop.  This dark corner of the fort looks like a small prison cell.  In fact, the fort was used as a Union prison during the Civil War, and after the war the fort gained its’ most famous inmate: Dr. Samuel Mudd, the doctor that treated John Wilkes Booth after he assassinated President Lincoln.  Take a minute to explore the cell, and then retrace your steps to the entrance of the fort, stopping at the Visitor Center along the way to see a short film about the fort’s history.

Dr. Samuel Mudd's jail cell

            In addition to walking around inside the fort, you can also circumnavigate the outside of the fort on the Moat Wall Trail.  From the boat dock area, pick up the gravel path that heads parallel to the fort wall and away from the main dock, keeping the fort to your left.  First you will pass the seaplane dock, then a nice view of bird-covered Bush Key (a popular nesting spot for sea birds), and then the ruins of a Civil War-era dock (a popular spot for snorkelers). 

Moat Wall Trail

            The gravel trail ends where the brick moat wall begins, and you can continue your trip around the outside of the fort on the 6-foot wide moat wall.  This “back side” of the fort is probably my favorite place on the island: the crowds and noises of the docks are replaced by a few snorkelers and the sound of waves lapping against the moat wall.  Enjoy this spot for a while, then continue around the fort to arrive back at the boat dock and complete your tour of Fort Jefferson.