Jefferson National Forest: Appalachian Trail to Matts Creek Shelter (Blog Hike #134)

Trail: Appalachian Trail

Hike Location: Jefferson National Forest, James River Face Wilderness

Geographic Location: northwest of Lynchburg, VA (37.59696, -79.39132)

Length: 4.2 miles

Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Dates Hiked: April 2003, May 2014

Overview: An out-and-back along the Appalachian Trail to Matts Creek Trail Shelter.

Forest Information: http://www.fs.usda.gov/main/gwj/home
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=718723
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Lynchburg, take US 501 north to its crossing of the James River.  Just after crossing the river, look for the Appalachian Trail parking area on the left.  Park in this parking area. 

The hike: James River Face is one of those special geologic areas.  For 160 miles, the imposing Blue Ridge Mountains forms a nearly unbroken natural barrier from Front Royal in the north to Roanoke in the south.  Only once in that length is the Blue Ridge broken by a natural waterway, and that break is accomplished here by the powerful James River.  The feat was not easily accomplished, as nearly 250 million years of erosion was necessary to form the passage that exists today.  The resistance of the limestone and sandstone bedrock is still evidenced by the sharp, craggy exposed rocks on both sides of the river.

The wilderness area has James River as its north boundary and is centered around 3073 foot Highcock Knob.  Highcock Knob is accessible by only a few trails, all of them steep.  One of those trails is the famous Appalachian Trail (AT), and it is not necessary to climb all of the way to the knob to experience a good taste of AT hiking.  The short hike along the AT described here provides some nice scenery, but it turns around at the Matts Creek Trail Shelter, right before the real climbing begins.

Appalachian Trail James River trailhead

            Exit the parking lot on the east side, go downhill under the railroad track, and climb some steps to the AT bridge over James River.  This bridge was dedicated in October 2000 to William T. Foot, a long-time advocate of the AT who helped make this bridge possible.  The river is deep and wide here, as you are only a few hundred yards above Snowden Dam, visible on your drive in along US 501.  Look for some fishermen trying their luck with a rod and reel in the river.  At the other side of the river, pick up the white AT blazes, which soon make a sharp right turn at a point where water trickles over rocks from the mountainside.

AT along James River

            Now heading upstream, the trail stays close to the south bank of the James River.  At some points the trail is rather narrow and there is a vertical drop of several feet to the swift river, so watch your step, especially on wet rocky sections.  At 1 mile come to a US Forest Service sign that announces your entry into the James River Face Wilderness.

Entering James River Face Wilderness

            Shortly past this sign, the trail curves left and, on a rare sunny stretch, leaves the James River behind, preferring the narrow ravine of Matts Creek, which is visible downhill to your right.  For the remaining 0.3 miles to the trail shelter, the trail climbs and descends several bluffs, some rather steep.  The net gain from the James River to the trail shelter is about 250 feet.

Hiking along Matts Creek

            Just before reaching the trail shelter, the blue-blazed Matts Creek Trail leaves to the left.  Actually, this is the old route of the AT; it ends on US 501, but on the wrong side of the James River for our trailhead.  The shelter itself shows signs of heavy use, and a colony of bumblebees had taken over in light of humans on my visit on a warm April afternoon.  Some nice places for a trail snack can still be found in sound and sight of gurgling Matts Creek.

Matts Creek shelter

            This description ends at the trail shelter.  The AT crosses Matts Creek at the shelter and begins a long series of switchbacks that culminates at an arm of Highcock Knob.  From the trail shelter, retrace your steps 2.1 miles back down Matts Creek, then along the James River, to return you to the trailhead to complete the hike.