Big South Fork NRRA: Leatherwood Loop Trail (Blog Hike #147)

Trail: Leatherwood Loop Trail

Hike Location: Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

Geographic Location: west of Oneida, TN (36.47710, -84.66806)

Length: 3.2 miles

Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)

Dates Hiked: June 2004, May 2015

Overview: A classic Big South Fork hike featuring views of the river both up close and from rim-top overlooks.
Park Information: http://www.nps.gov/biso/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=718930
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Oneida, take SR 297 west into Big South Fork.  As the road descends steeply into the river gorge, notice the vertical sandstone cliffs to the left.  Parking for the Leatherwood Ford Trail is located 11.2 miles west on Oneida just before crossing the river.  Turn right to enter the parking area.  Bear left at the first intersection and park near the restrooms and information kiosk on the left.  The trail begins at the information kiosk.

The hike: Since its creation in 1974, Big South Fork has become one of the premier hiking destinations in eastern Tennessee.  Indeed, whether one prefers waterfalls, rushing rivers and rapids, breathtaking overlooks, or just quality hiking through beautiful forest, Big South Fork has everything to offer.  Though some of the more remote sections of the area are only accessible by multi-day backpack treks, Big South Fork still gives ample opportunities for the day hiker to experience what the park has to offer.

One of the better and more accessible opportunities lies in the Leatherwood Loop Trail described here.  Located adjacent to SR 297, the trailhead is easily accessible from the nearby town of Oneida right on the main highway heading west out of town.  The trailhead offers many conveniences such as flush toilets, numerous information boards, and the nearby Bandy Creek Campground.

From this trailhead, many hiking options are available.  The easy Angel Falls Rapid Trail described elsewhere in this blog heads north (downstream) for a 4-mile roundtrip hike along the river to Angel Falls (not really a waterfall, but a very fast and difficult rapid).  The difficult Angel Falls Overlook Trail crosses the river via a footbridge and climbs to the rim on bare rock to reach a river overlook in 2.9 miles (one-way).  The lengthy John Muir Trail also passes through this trailhead on its way north along the river.  The hike described here gives both a riverside hike and a rim-top view with only a moderate amount of length and difficulty.

Leatherwood Ford Trailhead

            Start at the information board just west of the restrooms and begin heading south along the east bank of the river.  This is part of the John Muir Trail, so the trail along the river is marked with the John Muir blazes (a blue figure of a man’s head).  The usually calm river (along this stretch) flows against you on the right while the hillside rises steeply to the left.  The first 0.2 miles are paved with gravel, so they are handicapped accessible.

Passing under the SR 297 bridge

            After 0.3 miles of walking through open riverside forest, arrive first at a large boulder on the left of the trail, then to a wooden overlook on the right that gives a close-up view of the river.  This is your best opportunity to view the river from river-level.

At 0.5 miles, the John Muir Trail continues straight along the river while our hike, the Leatherwood Loop Trail, turns left and begins ascending the hillside.  The trail is now blazed with the red arrowheads that typically mark hiking trails in the Big South Fork.  6 switchbacks and a few stone steps later, the trail has gained 350 feet in elevation and arrives at the base of 15-foot high sandstone cliffs.

Red newt beside the trail

            The trail climbs intermittently but more steeply now as it weaves back and forth between breaks in the various cliffs.  The shallow soil favors red pines 1.5 miles from the trailhead, the trail has gained 450 feet in elevation from the trailhead and arrives at a signed trail intersection.  A left turn will take you on the 0.1 mile spur trail that leads to Leatherwood Overlook, the river overlook featured on this hike.

Leatherwood Overlook

            This overlook is perhaps my favorite river overlook in the Tennessee section of the BSF.  You are standing on bare rock 450 feet above the river below.  Looking down, you can see the bridge that carries SR 297 across the river.  You can also see the vertical cliffs across the river, and looking downstream, you can see the southern end of Grand Gap, a wide break in the cliffs.  The overlook is protected by wooden guardrails, so children under supervision can also enjoy the overlook.

After retracing your steps to the main trail, a soft left continues your trip around the loop.   1.9 miles from the start of the hike, top a gentle rise as you come to the highest point on the hike.  In another 0.2 miles, a spur trail exits to the right.  This spur trail leads 0.2 miles to the East Rim Trailhead.  The East Rim Trailhead is accessed from the East Rim Road, which you passed on your way in.  The East Rim Trailhead could be used as an alternate starting point for this hike, and starting there would provide an easy hike of 1.4 miles round-trip to the overlook.  Alternatively, or you could hike the Sunset Overlook Trail, which also starts at that trailhead and leads to another interesting overlook.

Hiking above the rim

            Continuing straight to continue the loop, the trail descends slightly and soon angles left to skirt the edge of an abandoned field.  You might encounter some tall grass here during the warmer months, so check yourself for ticks after you have reentered the woods.  2.4 miles from the start, the trail angles left to begin descending on an old road through young succession forest.

The road disappears as you get close to the rim and begin the core of the descent back to the river.  This descent is accomplished with an uncountable number of switchbacks along a ridge between a rhododendron choked drainage on the left and SR 297 on the right.  At one point, the trail comes out beside the drainage just below a small dripping waterfall. 

At first the road can only be heard downhill to the right, but as you descend, you will be able so see the blacktop as well.  Remember the sandstone cliffs you passed while driving in?  Well, you are hiking on top of those cliffs now, so don’t try to cut the switchbacks for a quicker descent to the road.  3.1 miles into the hike, you pass through the final switchback and, after a short hike along a stream, come out onto SR 297.  Angle left and cross the road to arrive at the entrance to the automobile Leatherwood Ford Trailhead parking, thus completing the hike.