Big South Fork NRRA: Blue Heron Trail (Blog Hike #91)

Trail: Blue Heron Trail

Hike Location: Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

Geographic Location: west of Stearns, KY (36.67062, -84.54777)

Length: 6.8 miles

Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate)

Dates Hiked: May 2001

Overview: A long climb to the rim, followed by a moderate course with interesting geological and cultural history.

Trail Information: http://www.nps.gov/biso/planyourvisit/kytrails.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=940327
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Stearns, go south on SR 1651 (old US 27) to SR 742.  Turn right on SR 742.  Take SR 742 into Big South Fork.  Bear right at the first major intersection, following signs for Blue Heron.  After curving downward to river level, the road curves left and passes under the restored Blue Heron coal tipple.  Park in the large paved parking lot immediately on the other side of the tipple.

The hike: Few hikes combine interesting geological and cultural history as well as Blue Heron.  The name Blue Heron comes from an abandoned coal mine that operated on this site in the early 1900’s.  In that era, all mining was performed by hand, a dirty and largely thankless job that endangered the health of those in that occupation. 

In foothill areas such as this, access to supplies and necessities from nearby towns for mine employees was restricted by a lack of transportation.  Indeed, for most of the mine’s existence, the only way into or out of Blue Heron was by a single rail line that connected Blue Heron to Stearns some 10 miles away.  Therefore, small towns sprang up around coal mines, often run by the company which exercised its monopoly power in the town’s shops.  By 1962, a combination of a lack of good quality coal beds and improved mining techniques forced the closure of Blue Heron.

The land set dormant for nearly 15 years until Blue Heron was chosen as one of only two sites for development within Big South Fork.  The other was Bandy Creek, located in northern Tennessee.  Blue Heron now contains interpretive exhibits bringing back to life the experiences of residents of the Blue Heron mining camps.  Rather than through a dusty museum as is found at some other national sites, the story of Blue Heron is told through 15 outdoor “ghost structures,” each one representing where a building once stood.  The structures consist of concrete floors, tin roofs, and metal supports, ideal for their low maintenance and forlorn feeling.  Each structure contains some exhibits about a certain facet of life at Blue Heron, including audio tapes of people who actually lived in the coal mining camp.  What stories they have to tell!

Adding to the pleasure of a visit to Blue Heron is a 6 mile hiking trail.  The trail is a loop trail with numerous access points, so there are several logical ways to hike the trail.  This description begins and ends at the Blue Heron restored coal mine exhibits.  As described here, one can first hike the trail, stop at the concession stand by the exhibits for a snack, then walk around the exhibits and see the ghost structures.  Such a route makes the trailhead easy to find and puts the long, uphill climb to the Big South Fork gorge rim at the very beginning.  One logical alternative would be to start at any one of three parking areas along the rim, use the south portion of the loop to hike to Blue Heron, see the exhibits and grab a trail snack while you are there, then climb back up to the rim using the northern portion of the loop.  The choice is really up to you.

Our hike starts in back of the concession area, which faces away from the large parking lot on the south side.  Restrooms are located in back of the concessions, facing the parking lot.  Follow a blacktop trail uphill through the exhibits, passing the restored tipple (a large, bridge-like structure used for sorting coal by size) and abandoned coal mine. 

Coal tipple at Blue Heron mine

Big South Fork River, as seen from Blue Heron tipple

            At the very northeast corner of the exhibits, where the blacktop trail turns sharply left, notice a small brown sign stating “Blue Heron Loop-6.5 miles” with an arrow pointing right.  Leave the blacktop in favor of dirt here and turn 180 degrees to the right, heading gradually uphill following red arrowheads for blazes.  Main trails in Big South Fork are generally marked with red arrowheads.  Side trails are marked with blue arrowheads, and horse trails are marked with yellow horse heads.

After 0.3 miles of climbing the trail reaches the end of the ridge and switchbacks to the left.  The river can be seen through the trees some 350 feet below you now.  Soon after, the trail reaches a steep set of wooden steps that leads to a boardwalk that passes under Cracks-in-the-rock.  Cracks-in-the-rock is an unusual geologic anomaly.  Large boulders have broken off from the sandstone cliff face and have come to rest leaning against one another.  This movement has created a natural rock tunnel where a few “cracks” of daylight can be seen through the roof, hence the name.  Take a moment to rest from your climb (now about 75% over) and admire the formation.

Continuing on, the trail ascends gradually to the base of the sandstone cliffs that formed cracks-in-the-rocks and reaches another steep, narrow set of wooden steps.  Like the first one, this set could be steep enough to be considered a ladder, especially near the top.  Climb through the cliffline and in another 0.1 mile reach a trail marked with blue arrowheads ascending and exiting left.  This side trail is a short connector between the Blue Heron Trail and the Gorge Overlook, a protected stone overlook of the Big South Fork gorge.  The trail is only 775 feet long and, despite the extra climbing, is well-worth the extra effort.  The reward is a spectacular view of the river, which can still be heard over 500 feet below you.  Take a few minutes at the benches at this overlook to rest and soak in the view before continuing.

View from Gorge Overlook

            Back on the Blue Heron Trail, continue south through a rocky section, clinging to the steep hillside.  Do not deviate from the marked trail, as vertical sandstone cliffs lurk all around you.  Pass a small rock shelter and then angle away from the river.  In an additional 0.4 miles the trail becomes paved for a short stretch at the Devil’s Jump Overlook, another large wooden platform overlook protected by steel railings.  This overlook offers possibly my favorite view of the river, as it appears to flow out of a wilderness from the south.  I doubt this view has changed little since the first pioneers saw Big South Fork some 300 years ago.  In addition, Devil’s Jump rapids can be seen and heard 500 feet directly below the overlook. A closer view and a greater discussion of this famous stretch of river will be garnered later in the hike.

View from Devil's Jump Overlook

            For the next 2 miles the trail winds uneventfully through second growth forest along the rim, meandering between the sandstone cliffs to the right and the park road to the left.  In a couple of places the trail joins the shoulder of the road for a few hundred feet before ducking back into the woods on the right.  Near the end of this stretch, a trail from the Blue Heron campground joins from the left as our trail curves right, heading for the cliffs.

From this point, the trail begins descending back to river level.  At first the descent is very gradual, using only a few steps cut into the sandstone as aid.  Later, the trail becomes somewhat steeper, using innumerable switchbacks and a few short, steep wooden sets of stairs that could be mistaken for ladders to smooth out the descent.  One noteworthy part of this descent is an area where the trail, after completing a switchback, dodges between talus fallen from the cliff above and passes under a small rock shelter.  In no place is the descent dangerously steep or the trail difficult to follow.

At the base of the hill, the Blue Heron Trail intersects a horse trail, marked with a yellow horse’s head, along the banks of Laurel Fork.  A sign directs you to turn right on the combined hiking/bridle trail to reach Blue Heron.  After about 300 feet, the trails fork again, with the Blue Heron Trail heading downhill to the left.  Actually, either of these routes could be used for the next 2 miles, as the trails will join twice more before arriving at Blue Heron.  I suggest sticking to the Blue Heron Trail, rather than the horse trail, as it yields better views of the river and drier trail conditions.  Note that, on either trail, views of the river are more expansive in the winter without the leaves obscuring your view.

Blue Heron Trail in the pines along the river

            After another 0.5 miles, the trail comes out onto a scenic bluff directly overlooking the river.  The river here is a peaceful stream during times of normal water level, but narrow, fast-moving rapids can be seen and heard on either side of this pond.  Notice a large boulder, probably at one time residing on the hillside above you, that is now submerged in the river at this point.

Past the bluff and after passing through a small pine planting, the trail climbs gently to rejoin the horse trail, using the combined trail to cross a feeder stream.  Watch carefully for the red arrowhead blaze attached to some steep wooden steps leading downhill into a field representing a recovering mine area to the left.  The trail descends these steps, then begins switchbacking further downhill through the field.  The trail was a little overgrown in the late spring when I hiked this section, but red arrowheads posted on tall wooden stakes insure that the trail can be followed.

Calm section of Big South Fork river

            0.5 miles past the former coal mine, the trail reaches its best vantage point of Big South Fork’s Devil’s Jump rapids, most easily viewed in the winter.  The name probably comes from the area’s logging history.  Raft captains known as “devils” were used to float the logs cut in the forests further upstream to the mills located downstream.  Some rapids in the river would sometimes become unnavigable for the rafters.  Thus, they would have to jump off of the logs they were piloting in order to avoid certain death.  This set of rapids, known for their tenacity, were very often a place where the “devils” would have to utilize this course of action.  Therefore, they became known as Devils Jump.

As you are hiking past these rapids, you may be accompanied by the large, blue bird for which the original coal mine was named, or a modern-day “devil,” namely a canoeist.  You will often see canoeists standing on the rocks overlooking the rapids.  They are probably mulling over the most critical of decisions: whether to attempt to paddle through the rapids or “portage” (carry the canoe on dry land) around them.  Choosing incorrectly could mean embarrassment, injury, or even death.  The rapids are very dangerous, and we as hikers should admire them from a safe distance.

After passing Devils Jump, only 0.4 miles of rocky but level trail remain to return you to the Blue Heron exhibits.  Grab a bite to eat at the concession stand, then browse the exhibits, which give you a great feel of what life in the Blue Heron coal mining camp was like.  Be sure not to miss the tipple bridge, which towers 100 feet over the Big South Fork River.  If you are up for even more hiking, the tipple bridge connects to the Kentucky Trail, one of the better long distance trails in the state.  For shorter hikes, Catawba Overlook and 2 waterfalls are within the first 3 miles of the Kentucky Trail, heading south out of Blue Heron.