Big South Fork NRRA: Twin Arches Trail (Blog Hike #90)

Trail: Twin Arches Trail

Hike Location: Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

Geographic Location: northeast of Jamestown, TN (36.54431, -84.74169)

Length: 1.4 miles

Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)

Dates Hiked: Summer 2001, October 2017

Overview: A short hike to one of the major attractions in the Big South Fork.

Trail Information: http://www.nps.gov/biso/planyourvisit/tntrails.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=717474
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The Twin Arches Trailhead sits in an isolated section of the park accessible only by a complex network of narrow gravel roads.  Some of the roads are not very well marked, so follow the last portion of these directions carefully.  From Jamestown, go north on Tennessee SR 154 and reach SR 297.  From this intersection, continue north on SR 154 for another 1.9 miles to Divide Road, a gravel road going off to the right.  Turn right on Divide Road.  Where the road forks in 0.8 miles, stay left on Divide Road.  In another 2.8 miles, Twin Arches Road goes to the right.  Turn right here.  Twin Arches Road terminates at a small parking lot for the trailhead and an adjacent small picnic area.

           

The hike: By any account, Twin Arches are the major arch landforms in the Big South Fork.  If North Arch and South Arch were taken as a single landform they would be the biggest arch in the world.  Depending on how you measure, one could say that either of the Twin Arches are bigger than the famous Natural Bridge of Virginia.  The Virginia bridge is higher and thicker, but these arches are both wider at the base.  These arches are somewhat more difficult to access, but that only adds to the appeal.  Natural Bridge Virginia has a road built over it, a paved trail underneath it, and lights attached to it for a tacky light show at night.  On the other hand, Twin Arches can be viewed in their natural settings.

Numerous hiking trails access the Twin Arches.  The 4.9 mile Twin Arches loop (described elsewhere in this blog) traverses difficult terrain while passing Charit Creek Lodge, a rustic housing accessible only by trail.  Another trail connects the arches to Slave Falls and Needle Arch to the west.  The route described here provides the shortest, easiest access to the arches.  It is a moderate 1.4 mile hike following the crest of the finger ridge in which Twin Arches has formed. 

Although Twin Arches are a wondrous sight any time of year, I would recommend a winter visit.  Remember that these arches remain in a natural setting, which includes a lush patch of trees.  In winter, leaves are off the trees, allowing you to view the arches from further away, thereby allowing more chances to take photographs.  Also, insects are not a problem in winter, and poisonous rattlesnakes and copperheads are hibernating safely underground.  Of course, winter can also present icy trail conditions and unusually cold weather.  Take the weather into consideration, watch your step, and dress appropriately.

Twin Arches Trailhead

             From the trailhead sign at the rear of the parking lot, the dirt trail descends along the rim of a ravine through second-growth oak forest with a dense understory of mountain laurel.  Mountain laurel is a common shrub on the southern ridgetops.  The pretty white flowers cover eastern Tennessee hillsides in late April and May.  The trail joins an old logging road and soon reaches the edge of the sandstone cliffs.  There is no railing or guardrail on the edge of these cliffs, so make sure to keep young children firmly in tow.

Trail forks to form loop

             At 0.4 miles you will reach an intersection marked by a sign stating “Twin Arches” with arrows pointing straight and left.  The two trails at this intersection form a loop, so you can actually use either one to reach Twin Arches.  To avoid confusion, I will suggest turning left here.  The trail stays on the rim for a short distance before using two extremely steep, but sturdy, sets of steps to descend 100 feet to the base of the cliff.

Now following the base of the cliff on the right and more downhill on the left, the trail proceeds east along the finger ridge, crossing several small streams via wooden bridges.  Be especially careful along this section of trail in winter, as icicles can break off of the cliff above you and come crashing down like spears on your head. 

0.3 miles after the trail intersection North Arch comes into view up and to the right.  Although the smaller of the two arches, North Arch still measures a respectable 51 feet high and 93 feet wide.  Standing under the arch, you can admire the massive amounts of sandstone over you and on either side.  Try singing your favorite song toward one of the sides of the arch and listen as your voice echoes off of the rocks.

Looking up at North Arch

North Arch

            The trail going under North Arch proceeds west to Needle Arch, Slave Falls, and Middle Creek Trailhead.  Instead of taking that, remain on the east side of the ridge and proceed 100 yards around a rock outcropping to arrive underneath South Arch.  Along this short journey two other trails exit our trail.  The trail going downhill to the left goes 1.1 miles to Charit Creek Lodge, while the trail going up some wooden steps to the right is our eventual return route (after seeing South Arch).

Measuring 70 feet high and 135 feet wide, South Arch is the larger of the two arches.  Still, their similar size and appearance make the two arches unmistakably twins.  Both arches were formed by water and wind eroding away the softer sedimentary rock that had been formed underneath the harder sandstone that remains.  Orange sand once part of the arch covering the ground beneath the arches testifies to the power of nature in changing the landscape.

South Arch

South Arch

            On the west side of South Arch there is a narrow, 88-foot tunnel called, creatively, West Tunnel.  If you are thin enough, you can squeeze through this tunnel to arrive at the end of the finger ridge containing the arches.  This side trip will allow you to view some interesting rocks at the end of the ridge.  The interest lies in some geological evidence that suggests Twin Arches may, at some time in the distant past, have actually been Triple Arches.  The end of the ridge you see here may have been the side to this ancestral arch, and the talus that litters the floor may have been the now collapsed lintel.  Whether true or not, this theoretical third arch serves to add to the intrigue of the area.

Wooden steps to top of arches

Walking across the top of North Arch

            To begin the journey back to the trailhead, retrace your steps to the wooden steps you passed between the two arches and ascend them to the crest of the ridge.  Turn right at the top of the steps and cross North Arch.  Views of Hatfield Ridge are to be had to the east, and Flat Fork Ridge can be seen to the west.  Ascend another steep set of wooden stairs before beginning a gradual descent to the trail intersection to close the loop.  A moderate 0.4 mile climb remains to return you to the gravel parking lot and complete the hike.