Judge C.R. Magney State Park (Blog Hike #319)

Trail: Devil’s Kettle Falls Trail

Hike Location: Judge C.R. Magney State Park
Geographic Location: northeast of Grand Marais, MN (47.81981, -90.05317)
Length: 2 miles

Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: July 2010
Overview: An out-and-back hike with lots of steps ending at unusual Devil’s Kettle Falls.

Park Information: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/park.html?id=spk00193#homepage

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=722774
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Grand Marais, take SR 61 north 14 miles to the park entrance on your left.  Pass the park office and the campground on the gravel main park road.  Park in the large gravel parking area at the end of the main park road.

The hike: Most people from outside northeast Minnesota have never heard of Judge C.R. Magney, but his name is legendary among locals and Minnesota conservationists.  In addition to being a lawyer, the mayor of Duluth, and a justice of the Minnesota Supreme Court, Judge C.R. Magney was one of the earliest proponents of the Minnesota state park system.  In 1963, the six year old Brule River State Park was renamed C.R. Magney State Park to recognize the late judge’s contributions to the state parks.

            Initial development of the area began way back in 1934 when a state depression era work camp constructed the stone foundations for today’s campground and picnic area.  In 1957, the original state park consisted of only 940 acres, but additional purchases have brought the current total to a vast 4642 acres, many of which are not even accessible by trail.  Judge Magney grew up on wild lands like these, and wild they have remained.

            The park’s main attraction is Devil’s Kettle Falls, a split waterfall remarkable because only the right half can be clearly seen.  The left half falls into a huge pothole and disappears out of view...forever!  These falls are in the developed part of the park, but you will have to climb some intricate staircases to reach them.  In spite of the difficulty, many people make the hike to the falls, so you will likely not be alone on this trail.  Nevertheless, if you make it this far up the North Shore, do not pass up this park thinking it is “just another” state park between Duluth and Canada.  In fact, this hike is probably my favorite hike from my July-August 2010 Minnesota trip.

Crossing the Brule River, looking upstream

            Begin at the front right corner of the parking lot at an information board.  The dirt trail heads into the forest, soon to emerge at an artificial clearing on the west bank of the Brule River.  The trail exiting sharply right leads to SR 61 and Lake Superior, so you should angle left and cross the river on a green iron-wood bridge.  Notice the smooth rocks in the river basin, polished by years of the water’s erosion.

            On the east side of the river, the trail passes a small picnic area and heads upstream along the river bank.  Soon the long, gradual to moderate climb away from the river begins.  At 0.7 miles, a gap through the trees on your left allows you to view the Upper Falls of the Brule River, which is now over 100 feet below you.  You will be at the base of this waterfall shortly, but take a couple of minutes to enjoy this reward for your climb.

Upper Falls, from a distance

            At 0.8 miles, you reach the top of a large wooden staircase that leads down to the waterfalls.  The 176 steps lead ever-downward in one of the most intricate and well-engineered staircases in the Minnesota State Park system.  At the bottom of the steps, a short spur trail leads down a few more steps to the base of Upper Falls, the waterfall you saw from higher elevation earlier.  Low cliffs channel the river’s water into a small chute and over a 20 foot ledge into a deep plunge pool.  You can admire this waterfall for awhile, but the main attraction awaits just ahead.

Upper Falls, up close

            Retrace your steps back to the main trail and turn left to continue toward Devil’s Kettle.  A moderate climb involving less than 100 steps leads you to an overlook of Devil’s Kettle Falls.  Just above the waterfall, a huge slab of rock splits the Brule River into two branches.  The right (east) branch rushes “normally” over a 50 foot waterfall that looks much like an upsized version of Upper Falls.  The left branch drops 50 feet into a huge pothole, but never materializes again.  Local legend says the water disappears forever, but more likely it feeds an underground river which eventually emerges in Lake Superior.  This is one of the most unusual waterfalls on the North Shore (or anywhere, for that matter), so take some time to thoroughly observe the area.

Devil's Kettle Falls-left side

Devil's Kettle Falls-right side

            The trail continues beyond Devil’s Kettle Falls and eventually joins the Superior Hiking Trail, but it does not form a manageable day-hiking loop.  There are no other major points of interest above this waterfall, so most hikers turn around at the overlook and retrace their steps back to the parking area to complete this hike.