Big South Fork NRRA: Burnt Mill Loop (Blog Hike #802)

Trail: Burnt Mill Loop
Hike Location: Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area
Geographic Location: southwest of Oneida, TN (36.38760, -84.63017)
Length: 4.2 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: June 2020
Overview: A loop hike, mostly along the Clear Fork River, passing many rock shelters.
Area Information: https://www.nps.gov/biso/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=818499
Photo Highlight:

Summary Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Oneida, take US 27 south 10 miles to Old US 27, which is reached just after crossing the New River bridge.  Turn right on Old US 27.  Drive Old US 27 1.4 winding miles to Mountain View Road.  Turn right, then immediately turn left on Mountain View Rd.  Drive Mountain View Rd. west 2.3 miles to Al Martin Road and turn right on Al Martin Rd.  0.5 miles later, angle left to begin the gravel road that leads to the Burnt Mill trailhead.  Reach the Burnt Mill trailhead after another 0.4 miles.  Park in the large trailhead and river access parking lot on the left just after crossing the Clear Fork River at Burnt Mill.

The hike: For my introduction to Big South Fork, see my previous hike on the area's popular Leatherwood Ford Loop.  Tucked away in the extreme south corner of the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, the Burnt Mill Loop explores the sandstone cliffs and rock shelters along a wide 180-degree bend in the Clear Fork River.  The Burnt Mill trailhead is accessible only by gravel roads, which adds to the seclusion and beauty of the area.  While this loop may not be the best or most popular trail in Big South Fork, it offers nice scenery and presents a compelling option for hikers who want a change from the area's more famous trails.

1911 Burnt Mill Bridge

Burnt Mill Bridge, side view

            Before you begin the hike, the old Burnt Mill Bridge at the trailhead is worth a visit.  Built around 1911, the steel bridge with wooden deck used to carry vehicle traffic over the Clear Fork River.  The bridge has an unusual half-and-half construction that features a Pratt through-truss span on the east end and a half-hip Pratt pony-truss span on the west end.  The concrete bridge you drove over to get to the trailhead replaced the wood/steel one in 2006, and some recent bridge deck repairs allow hikers and picnickers to enjoy a walk on the old bridge.

Start of Burnt Mill Loop

            To start a counterclockwise journey around the Burnt Mill Loop, walk out to the parking area entrance, cross the road, and pick up the trail as it heads down a steep gravel road embankment.  The Burnt Mill Loop is marked with green pieces of carsonite that bear the universal hiker symbol, but a few older red arrowhead paint blazes also mark the way.  The trail heads northwest through a narrow corridor between the Clear Fork River on the right and sandstone cliffs featuring lots of rock shelters on the left.  Some minor undulations and a few rocky areas need to be negotiated, but overall the going is fairly easy.

Short ladder

           At 0.4 miles, you descend a short wooden ladder that takes you down a sheer sandstone bluff.  The trail passes numerous established primitive campsites; some of these campsites sit along the river while others sit near the sandstone cliffs.  The forest consists of hemlock and sweet gum trees, and some dense areas of rhododendron had already bloomed on my late June visit.

Large rock shelter

           0.9 miles into the hike, you round the most downstream sandstone cliff on this hike and begin climbing up a side ravine away from the river.  At first the climb is gradual, but later the grade steepens and includes a couple of switchbacks.  Overall, the trail gains about 300 vertical feet of elevation over 0.4 miles.  The forest on top of the ridge features more broadleaf trees and a dense understory of ferns, and the trail follows an old road for a short distance here.

Hiking along the ridgetop

            At 1.3 miles, you reach the top of the ridge and a major trail intersection.  To continue the Burnt Mill Loop, angle left and cross gravel Honey Creek Road, as indicated by wooden signs.  Two long-distance backpacking trails join our route here: the John Muir Trail, which is marked by blue markers in the shape of a man's head, and the Sheltowee Trace, which is marked by blue turtle-shaped markers.

Clear Fork River

            After 0.4 miles of flat ridge-top walking, the trail descends steeply via several switchbacks to return to the river.  The Clear Fork River alternates between placid pools and rippling rapids, and some nice views of the river emerge to your right.  More large rock shelters are passed on the left, and the trail weaves back and forth between river and cliff line.  After following the fantastic narrow corridor between the river and cliffs for more than 2 miles, you return to the Burnt Mill trailhead parking area and complete the hike.  Be sure to check out the old bridge before you leave if you did not do so before.