Lake Wappapello: Johnson Tract Natural Area (Blog Hike #851)

Trail: Johnson Tract Nature Trail

Hike Location: Lake Wappapello, Johnson Tract Natural Area
Geographic Location: north of Poplar Bluff, MO (37.09523, -90.42339)
Length: 4.7 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2021
Overview: A woodland lollipop loop on gravel trail with good wildlife viewing opportunities.
Lake Information: https://www.mvs.usace.army.mil/Missions/Recreation/Wappapello-Lake/Recreation/
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=873363
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Poplar Bluff, take US 67 north 30 miles to Business US 67 in Greenville.  Turn right on Business US 67, and then in another 0.6 miles turn right on Highway D.  Drive Highway D east 1.9 miles to the signed trailhead parking area for the Johnson Tract Natural Area on the right.  Park in this small gravel lot.

The hike: Built in 1941 for flood control purposes, the Wappapello Dam on the St. Francis River forms 8400 acre Lake Wappapello.  Lake Wappapello is a major fishing destination: large numbers of bass, crappie, and bluegill live in the lake.  Although some outlets show this area as part of nearby Mark Twain National Forest, in fact both the dam and the lake are owned and operated by the US Army Corps of Engineers.

            The Corps of Engineers also owns some land near the lake, and they maintain several hiking trails on this land.  Most of these trails are short, but the gravel Johnson Tract Nature Trail described here forms a lollipop loop of nearly 5 miles.  While this trail offers no lake views and minimal other views, it does offer an excellent opportunity to view wildlife on well-maintained frontcountry trail.

Trailhead at Johnson Tract Natural Area

            From the rear of the parking area, walk around the boulders that were placed here to block vehicles and head up the wide gravel trail.  Note the information kiosk with trail map just beyond the boulders.  The trail is marked with white plastic rectangles bearing blue letters JT, but the gravel treadway makes this trail easy to follow for its entire distance.  The initial segment of this hike follows the top of a narrow finger ridge going more up than down, and the first of two designated backcountry campsites is passed as you head up the first decent-sized hill.  Thus, while I did this trail as a moderate dayhike, it could also be an easy overnight backpack trip.

            Just past 0.5 miles, the trail forks to form its loop.  For no particular reason, I chose to turn right and use the trail going left as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.  The wide gravel trail continues its ridgetop course, and the dense forest dominated by oak trees blocks any wide views into the surrounding hollows.  Imagine the time and effort it must have taken to haul in and lay down all of this gravel for the entire 4.7 miles!

Hiking out the finger ridge

            At 1.4 miles, you roll off the end of the finger ridge just before you reach a T-intersection with a two-track gravel road.  As indicated by a brown carsonite post, you need to turn left here to continue the loop.  For the next 1.3 miles the trail follows this gravel road.  Interestingly, while the white plastic rectangles are plentiful on the rest of the trail, they are completely absent on the gravel road.

Hiking through the floodplain

            Soon the moderate to steep descent ends in the St. Francis River's floodplain, but the river stays out of sight several hundred feet to the right.  A couple of pre-park constructions including a concrete culvert and some stones from a homestead give away that this gravel road was a driveway or vehicle road before it was a hiking trail.  Just after crossing the concrete culvert, a large grassy wildlife-viewing area appears on the right.  Although I did not see much wildlife at this spot, I saw lots of toads, lizards, termites, butterflies, and a black rat snake at other places around the loop.

Black snake crossing my path

Wildlife viewing area

            2.7 miles into the hike, the trail turns left to leave the old road.  The road can be discerned continuing to the right, but the road turns to dirt while the trail is paved with gravel.  Next comes a moderate to steep climb back onto the finger ridge.  The difference in elevation between the floodplain and ridge is just over 300 vertical feet, but you lose or gain this 300 feet in only a few tenths of a mile.

            After regaining the ridge, only minor undulations need to be negotiated until you close the loop at 4.2 miles.  Angle right and retrace your steps back out the entrance trail to complete the hike.  If you are up for some more hiking, the Corps of Engineers maintains 3 other short trails in this area that you can try, and nearby Lake Wappapello State Park also offers some interesting hiking opportunities.