Friday, March 6, 2020

Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site (Blog Hike #788)

Trails: History, Animal, Nature, and English Garden Trails
Hike Location: Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site
Geographic Location: west side of Charleston, SC (32.80764, -79.98635)
Length: 2.9 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: February 2020
Overview: A nearly flat hike around the site of the first permanent English settlement in South Carolina.
Photo Highlight:
Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: Just north of downtown Charleston, take I-26 to SR 7 (exit 216A).  Exit and go south on SR 7.  Drive SR 7 south for 1.8 miles, then angle left on SR 171.  The entrance to Charles Towne State Historic Site is another 0.5 miles ahead on the left.  There is a traffic light at the site entrance, but otherwise the entrance is not well marked.  Turn left to enter the site, park in the large visitor parking lot, and pay your admission fee at the Visitor Center, where this hike begins.

The hike: The year was 1670 when a group of English settlers landed on Albemarle Point on the west bank of the Ashley River.  The settlers built a small fortified community that would become the first permanent English settlement in present-day South Carolina, and they named their community Charles Towne after the King of England, King Charles II.  This settlement would become the birthplace of the Carolina colony and the American South’s plantation system.
            Within 10 years a newer settlement on Oyster Point on the opposite east bank of the Ashley River had outgrown Charles Towne, and the capital of the Carolina Colony was moved to that site, which is present-day downtown Charleston.  The original Charles Towne became known as Old Town Plantation, and it would be farmed for almost the next 300 years.  The land’s last private owners were Dr. and Mrs. Joseph Waring, who built an ornate house and garden on the site.  In 1969, the land was sold to the State of South Carolina, which developed the land as a state park.  The park opened in 1970 to commemorate Charles Towne’s tricentennial.
            Today the park goes by the name Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site, and it offers an interesting mix of recreated history, actual history, and present-day attractions.  On each point, a recreated fort with buildings sits where the original fort once stood, and the Adventure recreates the 17th century ship the original settlers would have sailed on.  The ornate Legare-Waring House and adjacent garden await visitors’ exploration, and the park’s Animal Forest offers a small zoo with many live animals on exhibit.  You could easily spend several hours exploring all there is to see, and the 2.9 mile loop described here gives a good overview of the site.
Pond and fountain beside Visitor Center
            The exhibits in the Visitor Center give a good idea of what life was like in 1670 Charles Towne.  After browsing and interacting with the exhibits, walk out the side door marked as leading to the History Trail.  A plastic-board deck overlooking a nice pond with gushing fountain greets you as you step out of the Visitor Center.
Start of History Trail
            The asphalt History Trail heads east through an arboretum-like setting that featured some flowering redbuds on my late February visit.  At the next intersection, turn left to follow signs for the Animal Forest.  Next you pass a slave cemetery on the right; the cemetery would be hard to find without the signs that mark and interpret it.
            At 0.3 miles, you enter the Animal Forest exhibits.  The exhibits include an aviary featuring some pelicans and herons, some river otters, a black bear, a puma, a bison/elk pen, and a fantastic bald eagle.  Take some time to observe and learn what you can learn about bird and animal behaviors.
Pelicans in Animal Forest

Bison pen in Animal Forest
            After touring the Animal Forest, walk back out toward the History Trail, but before you reach the slave cemetery turn left to leave the asphalt and begin the site’s Nature Trail.  The Nature Trail is unmarked, but the dirt path was obvious on my visit.  The Nature Trail leads to a bench offering a nice view across Ashley River, which at this point appears more as a tidal marsh than a river.
Hiking the Nature Trail
            The Nature Trail heads south along the west bank of the Ashley River via a well-trodden dirt treadway.  When a pond comes into view, take a quick detour to the right to view the stately statue of Cassique of the Kiawah.  Kiawah Chief Cassique led Charles Towne settlers to build on this site and was a friend to the new-found colony.  After viewing the statue, continue south to the left of the pond to reach a white tent where some archaeological excavations were on-going on my visit.
Cassique of Kiawah
            Past the tent, you reach the south end of the Nature Trail where it rejoins the asphalt History Trail.  At 1.7 miles, the trail passes through the reconstructed palisade wall to enter the site of the original Charles Towne settlement.  Some cannons, some stocks, a crop garden, a common house, and more archaeology exhibits will be found here.  The mowed-grass area makes it easy to imagine what this settlement may have looked like 300+ years ago.
Reconstructed fort area
            Just shy of 2 miles, you reach the tip of Albemarle Point, which offers fantastic views of downtown Charleston across the Ashley River.  Continuing around Albemarle Point brings you to the 17th century-style Adventure ship’s dock.  Adventure is moved to another location for annual maintenance every January and February, so I did not get to see the ship.
Ashley River at Albemarle Point
            Next the trail crosses a wooden boardwalk that offers fantastic views up and down Old Towne Creek, another marsh-looking waterway.  The asphalt History Trail winds past some more archaeology exhibits before reaching the south end of the Avenue of Oaks.  As its name suggests, the Avenue of Oaks is a tunnel of live oak trees, and the lavish Legare-Waring House stands at its north end.
Avenue of Oaks
            Where the asphalt trail splits, turn left to hike the English Garden Trail, which forms a short loop through Mrs. Waring’s Garden.  Some pink azaleas in bloom brightened the garden on my visit, and another overlook gives a final view of Old Towne Creek.  I saw a blue heron perched beside a blooming azalea bush, and I flushed a group of robins out of the bushes.
Azalea and heron
            After crossing the Legare-Waring House entrance road, you pass a 700-year-old live oak tree.  Follow the History Trail as it winds its way to the rear entrance of the Visitor Center, thus completing the hike.  Take some time to browse the exhibits and gift shop in the Visitor Center on your way out if you did not do so before.

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