Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Waterton Lakes National Park: Townsite and Prince of Wales Trails (Blog Hike #705)

Trails: Townsite and Prince of Wales Trails
Hike Location: Waterton Lakes National Park
Geographic Location: Waterton, Alberta, Canada (49.05116, -113.91590)
Length: 6.1 kilometers (or 3.8 miles)
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2018
Overview: A double loop around the Waterton townsite and the Prince of Wales Hotel.
Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=706663
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: This hike starts at Cameron Falls, which is located on Evergreen Avenue along the west side of the Waterton townsite.  If you cannot find a parking spot near the falls, you will need to park wherever you can find a spot in Waterton and walk to Cameron Falls.

The hike: Straddling the United States/Canada border, Waterton Glacier International Peace Park was created in 1932 as the union of two previously existing adjacent national parks: Waterton Lakes National Park in southern Alberta and Glacier National Park in northern Montana.  The union was the world’s first international peace park, and it forms the centerpiece of a transboundary area with unique geography, flora, and fauna.  In spite of the designation, the two parks are administered separately by their respective governments, they require separate entrance fees, and a passport is required to cross the border.  I had the privilege of visiting both parks on my summer 2018 hiking trip, starting with Waterton Lakes, Alberta and working my way south.
            Narrowing focus to the Canadian park, Waterton Lakes National Park was established in 1895 as Canada’s fourth national park.  The park gets its name from the three Waterton Lakes in its eastern part, which in turn are named for Charles Waterton, a Victorian naturalist and conservationist.  Waterton Lakes are the deepest lakes in the Canadian Rockies, and lake cruises on commercial cruise lines are offered several times per day during the summer.
            The only developed site in Waterton Lakes National Park is the Waterton townsite, so almost everyone visiting the park will find themselves in the town of Waterton at some point.  When I came here in July 2018, most of the park was closed in the aftermath of the enormous Kenow wildfire that burned a large area west of Waterton in September 2017.  Thus, I hiked the Townsite and Prince of Wales Trails described here partly because they were among the few trails that were open.  While these trails stay near civilization for their entire distance (see the next hike if you want an excursion into the park’s undeveloped area), they provide a nice introduction to the townsite and surrounding areas, which are still quite scenic.
Cameron Falls
            You could start this hike almost anywhere in Waterton, but I chose to start the trail description at Cameron Falls partly because it is easy to find and partly because its parking area experiences high turnover, thus making it fairly likely that you can find a parking spot.  Cameron Falls is a cascade-type waterfall in Cameron Creek, and the creek provides plenty of water to fall over the inclined rock layers.  Cameron Falls is one of the most popular and scenic sites in the Waterton townsite, so take a few minutes to enjoy the aquatic action.
Exiting Cameron Falls area
            After viewing the waterfall, begin the Townsite Loop by walking across the road and picking up the asphalt trail that heads southeast with Cameron Creek on your left.  The trail heads through a mowed grass area dotted with only a few trees as the Townsite Campground comes into view on the right.  As you cross the campground access road, notice the constructions along Cameron Creek that stabilize the banks of the creek’s channel.
            At 0.8 kilometers, the trail curves left to cross Cameron Creek on a sturdy footbridge.  An excellent view south across Upper Waterton Lake opens up here, and Parks Canada has placed a couple of their famous red Adirondack chairs at this point to mark the scenic view.  Vimy Peak rises from the lake’s far shore, and Mount Crandell towers over the townsite to the north.
Mount Crandell
            For the next 1.3 kilometers the trail heads northeast along the shore of Upper Waterton Lake.  Picnic shelters, lodging establishments, and other town buildings lie just left of the trail, so the Townsite Loop earns its name on this section.  Near 2 kilometers, you reach the International Peace Park Pavilion, which occupies a peninsula that juts north and separates Upper Waterton Lake from Emerald Bay.  The famous Prince of Wales Hotel stands atop the hill across Emerald Bay, and this point gives you a great view of that elaborate building.
Prince of Wales Hotel
            The trail curves left again and heads northwest past the Waterton Cruises dock and ticket booth to begin this hike’s journey around Emerald Bay.  A shady section comes next, and some benches here make nice places to sit, rest, and watch the lake just shy of this hike’s midpoint.  At 2.6 kilometers, you reach Waterton townsite’s main entrance road.  Do not cross the road, but instead turn right to leave the Townsite Loop and walk on a paved trail that parallels the road.
            After rounding the head of Emerald Bay, turn right and walk through the Emerald Bay Picnic Area, which was very popular on the warm and sunny Saturday afternoon that I hiked here.  At the rear of the picnic area, pick up the unsigned Prince of Wales Trail as it heads across a gravelly (as opposed to sandy) beach on Emerald Bay.  The beach offers another excellent view south across Upper Waterton Lake.
View south across Upper Waterton Lake
            3 kilometers into the hike, you reach the east end of the gravelly beach, where a brief rocky section needs to be traversed before you reach a second smaller beach.  When you exit the second beach and return to single-track dirt trail, the body of water on your right is now Middle as opposed to Upper Waterton Lake, but it is hard to tell the difference.  The hillside is steep and the trail narrow, so even though horses are allowed on this trail, large animals would struggle to fit through.
Hiking the Prince of Wales Trail

Vimy Peak across Middle Waterton Lake
            As you continue around the Prince of Wales Trail, the woods get denser, and another face of Vimy Peak appears across the lake.  At 4.2 kilometers, you reach the northeastern corner of the Prince of Wales Trail.  The Linnet Lake Picnic Area, a boat launch, and restrooms sit here.  Trails exiting left climb to the Prince of Wales Hotel and loop around Linnet Lake, but both of these trails were closed on my visit.  Thus, I had to head southwest on the roadside sidewalk that goes up and over a hill to get back to Waterton townsite.  Use the sidewalks in Waterton to return to your car and complete the hike.

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