Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park: Young Hawk and Little Soldier Loops (Blog Hike #703)

Trails: Young Hawk and Little Soldier Loops

Hike Location: Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park

Geographic Location: south of Mandan, ND (46.76526, -100.84591)

Length: 3.2 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)

Date Hiked: July 2018

Overview: A lollipop loop featuring the site of a former infantry post.

Park Information: https://www.parkrec.nd.gov/fort-abraham-lincoln-state-park

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=704556
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the west bank of the Missouri River, take I-94 to Mandan Avenue (exit 153).  Exit and go south on Mandan Ave.  Drive Mandan Ave. south 0.6 miles to Main Street and turn right on Main St.  Drive Main St. west 0.3 miles to SR 1806 and turn left on SR 1806.  Drive SR 1806 south 7 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, pay the park entrance fee, and park in the blacktop lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: The year was 1872 when companies B and C from the United States’ 6^th Infantry built an infantry post along the future route of the Northern Pacific Railroad near where it would cross the Missouri River in North Dakota.  The post was originally called Fort McKeen, but less than six months after its construction the name was changed to Fort Abraham Lincoln to honor the recently assassinated President.  Soon a cavalry post was added, and about 650 men were stationed at the fort, which consisted of 78 separate buildings.  The fort’s first commander was Lt. Col. George Custer, who used the fort as a base during the American Indian Wars including the Battle of Little Bighorn, where Custer was famously killed.

            As the Indian Wars subsided, the fort lost its importance, and it was abandoned in 1891.  The fort’s site was deeded to the State of North Dakota by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1907, and starting in 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began building park infrastructure on the site.  Today Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park is one of the best state parks in North Dakota.  In addition to the historic sites, the park offers a 114-site campground, 2 cabins, and 2 tipis for lodging.

            In terms of trails, the park contains 7 miles of trails most of which are open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horses.  All of the lodging and historic sites are accessible by trail, though some of them are hard to incorporate into a single nice loop.  The lollipop loop described here takes you through the site of the infantry post while offering a tour of the park’s more remote areas and excellent views from some of the park’s highest land.  Note that most of this hike is exposed to the sun, so wear sun protection and drink plenty of water during the warmer months.

Trailhead at Visitor Center parking lot

            Start on the asphalt bike trail that departs the southwest corner of the Visitor Center parking lot.  The trail crosses the main park road, curves right, and begins to climb.  Although the trail is paved, this initial segment is actually the steepest climb of the hike.  Ignore an old road that exits left through a vehicle gate and heads toward the cavalry post.

            At 0.2 miles, you reach the signed start of the Interpretive Trail (also signed as the Scout Trail), which exits left.  Turn sharply left to leave the asphalt and begin the dirt Interpretive Trail.  The climb continues but on a more gradual grade as the trail works its way around the hill on which the infantry post stands.

Cavalry post and Missouri River

Views of the cavalry post and the Missouri River to the south get better the more you climb; the breeze may intensify as well.  The treadway on this part of the hike was somewhat narrow and rutted, but the route was easy to follow on my visit.  Numbered carsonite posts suggest the existence of an interpretive guide though none were available at the trailhead.

Climbing toward the infantry post

            At 0.7 miles, you reach a trail intersection near carsonite post #13 where you need to turn sharply right to remain on the Interpretive Trail; the option going straight leads to a cemetery and deeper into the trail system.  The trail next crosses the steep asphalt road that gives vehicles access to the infantry post, and soon the infantry post’s reconstructed blockhouses come into view.  Walk up to the southern-most of the three blockhouses and climb the steep ladder to its top for a 360-degree view.  These blockhouses were rebuilt by the CCC in 1935, and they provide great views from the highest point on this hike.

Approaching the first blockhouse

            After climbing the first blockhouse, take the concrete sidewalk-like trail to the northeast that heads to the next blockhouse.  The former sites of some other buildings are signed, and in some cases remnants of the foundations are visible.  At 1.2 miles, you reach the second blockhouse and the northern end of the infantry post site.  Take the grass/dirt trail to the right of the blockhouse to continue north, exit the infantry post site, and re-enter the park’s natural area.

Site of former infantry post structure

            Now on the Little Soldier Loop, the sidehill trail descends gradually with the top of the finger ridge on the right and a ravine falling to the left.  Prairie plants dominate the northern part of the park, and some bright red honeysuckle berries brightened my path on the seasonally cool July evening that I hiked here.  Mountain bikes also traverse this part of the trail system, so step off the trail and let them pass if people riding bikes approach.

            Just past 1.5 miles, you reach a trail intersection where you need to angle right to remain on the Little Soldier Loop.  Now approaching the park’s northern boundary, the trail makes a sweeping 180-degree right turn around the north end of the finger ridge.  A nice view of the North Dakota State Capitol and downtown Bismarck over the Missouri River emerges to the northeast.

View northeast toward Bismarck

            Now heading south, a gradual climb precedes a gradual descent as the Heart and Missouri Rivers appear below you ahead and to the left.  Near 2.5 miles, you enter a grove of cottonwood trees that constitutes the only wooded portion of this hike.  The asphalt Mandan-Fort Lincoln Bike Trail can be seen downhill to the left.

Hiking through the cottonwood grove

            At 2.8 miles, the Little Soldier Loop ends where you reach a stone CCC-built picnic shelter with a nearby vault toilet and drinking fountain.  Angle left to walk out toward the main park road, then turn right on the asphalt bike path.  Walking along the bike path for 0.3 miles returns you to the Visitor Center parking lot to complete the hike.

            Before you leave the park, there are at least two other places you should visit.  Located behind the Visitor Center, the On-A-Slant Village recreates a Mandan Indian village that was inhabited on this site between the late 1500’s and the late 1700’s.  The village gives a nice flavor of what life was like here during the pre-fort days.  Also, while this hike explored the infantry post, the cavalry post is located near the park entrance; it features Lt. Col. George Custer’s house among other structures.  The park offers daily tours of both of these historic places, so get the most out of your park entrance fee by seeing all the historic sites the park has to offer before leaving.