Richmond National Battlefield Park: Cold Harbor (Blog Hike #682)

Trails: Main, Extended Loop, and Western Trails

Hike Location: Richmond National Battlefield Park, Cold Harbor

Geographic Location: northeast of Richmond, VA (37.58536, -77.28686)

Length: 3 miles

Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: May 2018

Overview: A loop hike featuring trenches dug and utilized by Civil War soldiers.

Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/rich/index.htm

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=734726
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: Northeast of Richmond, take I-295 to SR 615 (exit 34A).  Exit and take SR 615 north 1 mile to SR 156.  Turn right on SR 156.  Drive SR 156 east 1.9 miles to the Cold Harbor Visitor Center on the left.  Park in the lot beside the Visitor Center.

The hike: Many of the Union’s efforts during the Civil War focused on capturing the Confederate’s capital of Richmond, for many people felt that capturing Richmond would lead to a quick end to the war.  After land advances from the north were repelled at Manassas and Fredericksburg, Union armies attempted to approach Richmond from the east by sea.  Significant battles occurred at Seven Pines, Oak Grove, Beaver Dam Creek, Drewry’s Bluff, Fort Harrison, Gaines Mill, Cold Harbor, and other locations near Richmond.

            Headquartered in downtown Richmond, Richmond National Battlefield Park protects 11 Civil War battlefield sites in and around Richmond.  Four of the 11 sites have Visitor Centers, but the park’s best trail system is at the Cold Harbor site featured here.  The Battle of Cold Harbor lasted for 13 days between May 31 and June 12, 1864, and it represented the Union’s last (failed) attempt at a direct assault on Richmond before turning their attention south to Petersburg.  The Confederates had dug deep fortifications in preparation for such an attack, and the fighting that took place at Cold Harbor was a preview of the trench warfare that would characterize World War I some 50 years later.

            The trenches at Cold Harbor are surprisingly well-preserved, and while you can see them on Cold Harbor’s auto tour road, a more up-close and personal encounter can be had by hiking the site’s trails.  Cold Harbor’s trail system consists of three loops that lie end-to-end: the 1 mile Main Trail, the 1.5 mile Extended Loop Trail, and the 0.9 mile Western Trail.  This hike uses parts of all three loops, and it offers the longest route through the trail system that does not require significant retracing of steps.

Cannon near Main Trail trailhead

            After picking up a trail map at the Visitor Center, start a counterclockwise journey around the Main Trail, which is marked with blue stickers on brown carsonite posts.  The Main Trail leaves the south side of the Visitor Center and heads east across a tall grass field.  A cannon near this trailhead marks where a Confederate gun battery stood; the Union soldiers were encamped on the other side of the field.

            At 0.25 miles, you reach the other side of the field and enter the woods.  As you stand here and look back across the field toward the cannon that marks the Confederates’ position, you start to see the brutality of trench warfare.  Any Union soldier who dared start across that field would be instantly mowed down by Confederate fire from the other side.  Thus, Union soldiers dug their own protective trenches in this area, and soldiers on both sides spent days on end laying in these waist-high trenches unable to leave or even stand up without risking loss of life.

Start of Extended Loop

            Upon entering the woods, the wide trail surface turns from grass to gravel.  0.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail intersection where the Extended Loop begins.  Turn right to begin the white-blazed Extended Loop.

Union trenches

The trail soon passes a monument to the 2^nd Connecticut Volunteer Heavy Artillery before intersecting the asphalt tour road.  Follow the white aluminum diamond trail markers as they lead along the tour road, and watch for oncoming vehicle traffic while walking on the road.  Some of the best-preserved Union trenches are located along this stretch of the tour road, as is a rare reversed trench: a trench originally dug by Confederate soldiers that was later captured and used (in the opposite direction) by Union soldiers.

Exiting the tour road

            After following the tour road for a few hundred feet, continue to follow the white trail markers as they exit the tour road to the right at a signed junction.  Now in the northeastern corner of the park, the trail winds through and around more trenches.   A nice forest with lots of oak and poplar trees creates a quiet and pleasant ambiance.

At 1.1 miles, you cross a private gravel road near where some of the battle’s most intense fighting took place.  After another brief stint on the tour road where private property comes very close on the right, you reach another trail intersection at 1.5 miles.  The white-blazed Extended Loop Trail continues straight, but to see more of the battlefield, turn right to begin the yellow-blazed Western Trail.

Starting the Western Trail

            The newest trail in the park, the Western Trail is narrower and less-worn than the trails you have trod so far, but it is still easy to follow.  After crossing the only wooden footbridge on this hike, the trail descends and passes an interpretive sign that marks an improvised Confederate cannon pit.  These holes in the ground were used to mount cannons at a high angle, which allowed them to lob cannonballs high into the air and over Union earthworks.

Hiking the Western Trail

            Soon you reach the lowest elevation of the hike as the backwaters of Gaines Millpond comes into view as a wetland downhill and to the right.  Next the trail curves left and climbs gradually while following very close to the park’s western boundary.  Concrete and metal boundary markers keep you on park property.

At 2.4 miles, you reach the west end of the Western Trail and another intersection with the Extended Loop Trail.  Turn right turn to continue our loop.  After a gradual climb past some of the best-preserved Confederate trenches on this hike, you reach the asphalt tour road for a third and final time, where the white trail markers indicate that you need to turn right to continue the Extended Loop Trail.  Use the road bridge to cross Bloody Run, a surprisingly small stream that gets its name from a failed Union attempt to out-flank the Confederate trenches you passed just moments ago.

Bloody Run

Confederate trench

After crossing Bloody Run, the Extended Loop Trail ends at an intersection with the blue-blazed Main Trail.  Turn right to head back to the Visitor Center.  After a brief steep climb away from Bloody Run, the trail heads south parallel to the park’s west boundary as it passes more Confederate trenches.  Soon you come out at a grassy field where your car and the Visitor Center can be seen directly ahead, thus signaling the end of the hike.  Before you leave the area, consider driving Cold Harbor’s auto tour road or visiting nearby Gaines Mill, another of the battlefield park’s 11 sites.  Although Gaines Mill has only a short interpretive trail of less than 1 mile in length, the site saw heavy fighting during the Union’s 1862 attempt to sack Richmond, and it makes a worthy stop on your visit to Richmond National Battlefield Park.