Friday, May 25, 2018

Petersburg National Battlefield: Harrison Creek Loop (Blog Hike #680)

Trails: Jacob Road, Battery 7, Friend, and Harrison Creek Trails
Hike Location: Petersburg National Battlefield
Geographic Location: east side of Petersburg, VA (37.23261, -77.35437)
Length: 3.1 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2018
Overview: A loop hike through the eastern half of a Civil War siege site.
Battlefield Information: https://www.nps.gov/pete/index.htm
Hike Route Map:
On The Go Map
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Petersburg National Battlefield is located on SR 36 2.4 miles east of I-95 exit 52 or 3.4 miles west of I-295 exit 9B.  Enter the battlefield, stop at the Visitor Center to pick up a trail map, and drive the one-way auto tour road to stop #3, where this hike begins.

The hike: Most Civil War battles lasted a few hours or a few days, but the Siege of Petersburg started on June 15, 1864 and lasted until April 2, 1865.  After several direct assaults from the north failed to take Richmond, the Confederacy’s capital, Union General Ulysses S. Grant turned his focus south of Richmond to the industrial center of Petersburg.  The objective was to capture the manufacturing and transportation facilities that were supplying Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s army, thus forcing him to abandon Richmond and ultimately surrender.
            After an initial assault on Petersburg failed, Grant’s army began the process of building fortifications and cutting railroad lines.  The outnumbered Confederates withstood another noteworthy assault on July 30, 1864 (see the end of this post), but months of continuous shelling, skirmishing, and supply deprivation took their toll.  On March 25, 1865, a desperate Confederate attempt to break the siege failed, and on April 2, 1865 Lee ordered the evacuation of Petersburg and Richmond.  This evacuation was the beginning of the end of the Confederacy, as Grant forced Lee’s surrender at Appomattox Court House only 7 days later.
            Today important battle sites are preserved as Petersburg National Battlefield, and the national battlefield’s largest contiguous area is the eastern front where the majority of Grant’s men were stationed.  Like most national battlefields, a tour road passes many of the battle’s important sites, but unlike most national battlefields the eastern front also has an extensive trail system for hikers, mountain bikers, and horses.  The loop described here features the area east of Harrison Creek, an important line of defense during the battle, but it can be extended to tour more of the battlefield if you wish.
Trailhead, auto tour stop #3
            Three trails depart the parking area at stop #3 on the tour road.  Because trail markings at Petersburg National Battlefield are color-coded based on allowed users, all three trails are marked with red paint blazes, meaning only hikers and mountain bikers are allowed.  (For reference, green blazes mean hikers only, and yellow blazes mean hikers, mountain bikers, and horses are allowed.)  The trail on the right will be our return route, and the trail in the middle leads to adjacent Fort Lee, an active military base.  Thus, you want to take the trail on the far left, which a sign identifies as the Jordan Point Road.
            The two-track gravel trail heads east through some nice forest consisting of tulip poplar, sweet gum, maple, oak, and beech trees.  Although parts of the national battlefield consist of sunny grassy areas, most of this hike stays in the shady forest.  All of the battlefield’s trails are wide and well-maintained, making for pleasant hiking even on the trails that allow horses.
East end of Jordan Point Road
            At 0.3 miles, you reach the eastern end of the Jordan Point Road.  Major intersections in the battlefield’s trail system are identified by letters on wooden posts; this intersection is point G.  Turn left on the yellow blazed trail to begin heading north.  This section of trail lies very near the battlefield’s eastern boundary, and vehicle traffic from Fort Lee can be heard and sometimes seen to the right.
Follow the yellow blazed trail
            Just past 0.5 miles, you reach the highest elevation of this hike at point I.  Turn left to head away from the road and continue the loop.  The trail map calls this trail the Battery 7 Trail (named for a Confederate gun battery that was stationed here early in the battle), but no signs on the ground indicate such.
            The Battery 7 Trail makes a gradual descent through the northeast corner of the battlefield.  Ignore red-blazed side trails that exit left and stick with the wider yellow-blazed trail.  More traffic noise from SR 36 can be heard to your right, and a light to moderate rain started to dampen my clothes but not my spirit at this point in my hike.
Crossing the tour road
After crossing a small creek on a nice wooden footbridge, you cross the asphalt tour road at 1.2 miles.  Next comes the steepest part of the hike, a winding descent into the ravine that contains Harrison Creek.  Early in the battle, Harrison Creek separated the Union soldiers to the east and the Confederate soldiers to the west before the Union made small westward advances.  Also, the Confederate’s desperate attempt to break the siege on March 25, 1865 stalled at Harrison Creek.  As you walk along this creek, think of the soldiers who fought here many years ago and what they were fighting for.
The trail parallels Harrison Creek with a steep hillside rising to your left.  At 1.7 miles, you reach the lowest elevation on this hike (40 feet above sea level) and point M, a trail intersection where both options are marked with yellow blazes.  If you wanted to extend your hike and explore the western half of the eastern front, you could turn right here and cross Harrison Creek.  This hike angles left to continue following the creek’s east bank.
Hiking near Harrison Creek
The next 0.3 miles stay very close to Harrison Creek and pass several battlefield interpretive signs that are worth stopping to read.  At 1.9 miles, you cross the asphalt tour road for the second and final time.  Soon thereafter the trail curves left and begins a winding gradual climb away from the creek.
At 2.2 miles, you reach point Q and another decision.  The shortest route back to the trailhead would be to turn left on the red-blazed Water Line Trail, but as its name suggests this trail is dead straight and not very scenic.  Thus, I recommend angling right at point Q and then turning left at nearby point R to remain on the Harrison Creek Trail for as long as possible.
The Harrison Creek Trail stays on the high ground as it curves sharply left to begin an eastward course.  2.8 miles into the hike, you reach point B, where you need to turn left.  Another 0.3 miles of flat walking on wide trail returns you to the trailhead to complete the hike.
The Crater

Tunnel dug by Pennsylvania coal miners
As you drive the rest of the one-way auto tour road to exit the national battlefield, there is at least one other tour road stop that merits your time and attention.  Tour road stop #8 features an interesting site called the Crater, a Union attempt to blast its way into Elliott’s Salient, a Confederate stronghold.  A 0.4 mile paved interpretive trail tells the story of some Pennsylvania coal miners who dug a tunnel under the salient and packed the tunnel with gunpowder.  Although the gunpowder was successfully detonated on July 30, 1864, the result was a crater that proved just as effective at stopping the Union advance as did the original earthwork.  This site makes a nice way to wrap up your day of hiking and historical meditation at Petersburg National Battlefield.

Saturday, May 5, 2018

Caesars Head State Park: Raven Cliff Falls Trail (Blog Hike #679)

Trail: Raven Cliff Falls Trail
Hike Location: Caesars Head State Park
Geographic Location: northwest of Cleveland, SC (35.11594, -82.63817)
Length: 3.9 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2018
Overview: An out-and-back to a nice view of impressive Raven Cliff Falls.
Hike Route Map:
On The Go Map
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Cleveland, take US 276 north 13.6 winding miles to the signed Raven Cliff Falls parking area on the right.  You will pass the Visitor Center for Caesars Head State Park about 1 mile before reaching the trailhead parking area.  This parking area had plenty of space when I hiked here on a Tuesday morning, but it can overflow on warm-weather weekends.

The hike: If you drive to this trailhead by taking US 276 north out of Greenville, you will see the unusually shaped granitic gneiss rock outcrop that gives Caesars Head its name miles before you start the serpentine drive up the mountain to reach it.  With an elevation of 3208 feet, Caesars Head stands nearly 2000 vertical feet above Greenville, so the temperature usually remains several degrees cooler.  When I hiked here in early May, I had mowed the grass 4 times at my house down in Anderson, but the trees up at Caesars Head were just starting to put out leaves.
            Established only in 1986, Caesars Head State Park is the western anchor for the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, one of the top hiking destinations in South Carolina.  The state park Visitor Center you drive past on your way to the trailhead is worth a stop for two reasons.  First, the Visitor Center contains an interpretive museum that features a relief diorama of the entire Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area.  Second, adjacent to the Visitor Center sits a fantastic overlook at the edge of Caesars Head.  You can see Greenville from here on a clear day, and from September through November hawks migrating through the park soar beside you on the thermals created by the rocky outcrop.
            For hikers, Caesars Head State Park offers more than 60 miles of trails, but the park’s most popular and scenic hike is the out-and-back on the Raven Cliff Falls Trail that leads to 420-foot Raven Cliff Falls.  The Raven Cliff Falls Trail follows the edge of a ridge for its entire distance, so the trail offers some up-and-down without the extreme difficulty found on some of the park’s other trails.  Of course, Raven Cliff Falls is the main attraction of this hike.  Also, note that although the park lists this hike at 4.4 miles in length, the distance I gave at the outset is more accurate based on my calculations.
Trailhead: Raven Cliff Falls Trail
            Start by walking out to US 276 and crossing it via a marked crosswalk.  On the far side of the road lies the information kiosk and self-registration station that comprise the Raven Cliff Falls Trail’s trailhead.  Registration and payment of the park entrance fee are mandatory.  The Raven Cliff Falls Trail starts as a two-track gravel road that heads downhill on a moderate to steep grade.
The road you are following at the outset is used to access a water utility building, and at 0.25 miles you reach said building and a sign for the Middle Saluda Passage of the Palmetto Trail.  South Carolina’s two best backpacking trails, the Palmetto Trail and the Foothills Trail, also use this route even though the Raven Cliff Falls Trail’s red paint blazes are the only markings.  Past the utility building, the hike follows a wide single-track dirt treadway for the rest of its course to Raven Cliff Falls.
Single track sidehill trail
Although the difference between maximum and minimum elevations on this hike is only about 200 feet, several short but steep ups and downs will need to be negotiated starting with a short climb away from the utility building.  The trail next clings to the side of the hill, which rises to your right and falls to your left.  Some partially obstructed views of the Piedmont nearly 2000 feet below open up along this section, and I saw a pileated woodpecker fly into the air from a tree below me.  Large numbers of purple violets grew beside the trail.
At 0.8 miles, you reach the first of three abrupt turns that are marked with double red paint blazes.  Some old logging roads in this area might look like trails, but watching for the copious red blazes will keep you on the real trail.  Next comes a short quick descent via some wooden stairs through an area with rock outcrops.  A thick understory of mountain laurel grows in this area, which is noteworthy because most of the understory is quite sparse.
Descending past rock outcrops
Soon the trail rejoins an old logging road, and at 1.5 miles you reach a trail intersection.  The blue-blazed Foothills and Gum Gap Trails exit right and lead to a top-down view of Raven Cliff Falls from a suspension bridge.  Our hike turns left to stay on the Raven Cliff Falls Trail and head for the best waterfall view.  Intersections have trail maps posted, so it is hard to get lost if you just follow the red blazes.
Deep rut in treadway
The treadway gets a little rutted and rough as a moderate descent ensues.  At 1.9 miles, you reach another trail intersection.  The narrow and steep purple-blazed Dismal Trail continues straight, so you need to angle right to stay on the wider Raven Cliff Falls Trail.  0.1 fairly flat miles later, you reach the trail shelter that gives the award-winning view of Raven Cliff Falls.  Although you are more than 0.5 miles from the falls, the waterfall’s size and the overlook’s perfect near-frontal angle ensure that you get a good view.  Several smaller drops precede the main drop in this aquatic feast for the eyes and ears.  Benches provide nice places to sit, rest, have a snack, and enjoy the scenery.
Raven Cliff Falls
The Raven Cliff Falls Trail ends at this overlook, so now you have to choose how you want to finish this hike.  The simplest and easiest option is to retrace your steps 2 miles along the red-blazed Raven Cliff Falls Trail.  To increase the distance but not the difficulty, you could take the blue-blazed Foothills and Gum Gap Trails to the pink-blazed Naturaland Trust Trail, which quickly leads to the aforementioned suspension bridge perched just above Raven Cliff Falls.  Turning around at the bridge produces a hike of just over 6 miles.  For the fit and energetic hiker, an 8 mile lollipop loop can be formed by taking the purple-blazed Dismal Trail into the ravine below the falls and then connecting with the Naturaland Trust and Gum Gap Trails.  This trek is steep and rocky with roughly 1500 feet of elevation change, and it should only be undertaken with adequate supplies and preparation.  Choose your own adventure to finish your visit to Raven Cliff Falls.