Nantahala National Forest: Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest (Blog Hike #900)

Trails: Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, Lower and Upper Loops (Nantahala National Forest Trail #43)
Hike Location: Nantahala National Forest
Geographic Location: northwest of Robbinsville, NC (35.35895, -83.92908)
Length: 2.2 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2022
Overview: A lollipop loop through virgin forest passing ancient and impressive tulip poplar trees.
Forest Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nfsnc/recarea/?recid=48920
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=922697
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Robbinsville, take US 129 north 7 miles to Joyce Kilmer Road and turn left on Joyce Kilmer Rd.  Drive winding but paved Joyce Kilmer Rd. west 7.5 miles to where it deadends at the parking lot for Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.  Park here.

The hike: "I think that I shall never see/ a poem lovely as a tree...."  These immortal words form the first 2 lines of a 12 line poem simply entitled "Trees," and with them Joyce Kilmer made his longest-lasting mark on American literature.  Although my research indicates that Kilmer never came to western North Carolina, in 1936 a tract of land in Nantahala National Forest was set aside as a memorial to Kilmer, who was killed in battle during World War I.  The area is a fitting memorial: the 450 year old tulip poplar trees that live on this land are some of the largest and oldest tulip poplars to be found anywhere.  These tulip poplars are the reason I did this hike as my 900th blog hike, and they did not disappoint.

            There is one warning I should give you about this forest.  If you come here expecting a grove of nothing but giant tulip poplar trees, i.e. a tulip poplar version of Yosemite's famous Tuolumne Grove of giant sequoias, then you will leave disappointed.  The giant tulip poplars here grow among smaller trees that include maples and oaks.  The smaller trees can prevent you from seeing the top of a big tree, but they also provide a nearby comparison that shows just how massive the ancient tulip poplars are.  In my mind, the scenery here compares favorably to nearby Great Smoky Mountains National Park's Albright Grove, another ancient tulip poplar forest that is much more difficult to reach.

Trailhead, north arm of Lower Loop

            An information kiosk at the trailhead contains a trail map and the full text of Kilmer's poem, and a separate shelter houses some interpretive signs about the forest.  Both arms of the Lower Loop leave from the information kiosk, but the south arm of the Lower Loop going left was closed due to storm damage on my visit.  Thus, I had to angle right and hike the north arm both directions, which turned a loop hike into a lollipop loop.

Climbing through rhododendron

            The north arm of the Lower Loop climbs gradually with cascading Little Santeetlah Creek downhill to the left.  Large amounts of rhododendron and mountain laurel crowd the understory, giving parts of this trail a tunnel-like feel.  At 0.3 miles, the trail splits.  The option going right undertakes a long moderate climb to Naked Ground, so you want to angle softly left to keep following the Lower Loop.

Bridge over Little Santeetlah Creek

            After dropping to cross Little Santeetlah Creek on an interesting wooden footbridge, the trail climbs a short but steep set of steps and curves right to round a ridge.  The moderate climb continues as you cross another small creek on a more ordinary wooden footbridge.  At 0.7 miles, you reach the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest dedication plaque.  A metal plaque set in a large boulder briefly describes Kilmer's life and tells you that the forest was dedicated in 1936.

Dedication plaque

            The dedication plaque is also a major trail intersection.  The south arm of the Lower Loop goes left here, but as I mentioned previously it was closed on my visit.  In another 20 feet, the trail splits to form its Upper Loop.  For no reason, I chose to turn right and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking the Upper Loop counterclockwise.

Tulip poplar beside regular (fully grown) tree

Tulip poplar with root system

            Almost immediately the display of large tulip poplar trees begins, and the trail takes you past large tree after large tree.  Often the large trees are so tall that smaller trees prevent you from seeing the top of the large tree.  In a few cases the large tree's root system is partially above ground, allowing you to see just how extensive the roots are.  I tried not to stop and admire every large tulip poplar, but you need to take your time around the Upper Loop to appreciate these trees.

Pair of large tulip poplars

            The Upper Loop offers a winding route through the tulip poplar grove that takes you past most of the large trees.  Sometimes you might wonder where this trail is going, but the serpentine route also keeps the grade gradual despite the somewhat steep hillside.  Just shy of 1.5 miles, you close the Upper Loop.  Unless the south arm of the Lower Loop has been repaired, you will need to retrace your steps 0.7 miles down the north arm of the Lower Loop to return to the trailhead and complete the hike.