Nantahala National Forest: Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest (Blog Hike #900)

Trails: Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, Lower and Upper Loops (Nantahala National Forest Trail #43)
Hike Location: Nantahala National Forest
Geographic Location: northwest of Robbinsville, NC (35.35895, -83.92908)
Length: 2.2 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2022
Overview: A lollipop loop through virgin forest passing ancient and impressive tulip poplar trees.
Forest Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nfsnc/recarea/?recid=48920
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=922697
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Robbinsville, take US 129 north 7 miles to Joyce Kilmer Road and turn left on Joyce Kilmer Rd.  Drive winding but paved Joyce Kilmer Rd. west 7.5 miles to where it deadends at the parking lot for Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.  Park here.

The hike: "I think that I shall never see/ a poem lovely as a tree...."  These immortal words form the first 2 lines of a 12 line poem simply entitled "Trees," and with them Joyce Kilmer made his longest-lasting mark on American literature.  Although my research indicates that Kilmer never came to western North Carolina, in 1936 a tract of land in Nantahala National Forest was set aside as a memorial to Kilmer, who was killed in battle during World War I.  The area is a fitting memorial: the 450 year old tulip poplar trees that live on this land are some of the largest and oldest tulip poplars to be found anywhere.  These tulip poplars are the reason I did this hike as my 900th blog hike, and they did not disappoint.

            There is one warning I should give you about this forest.  If you come here expecting a grove of nothing but giant tulip poplar trees, i.e. a tulip poplar version of Yosemite's famous Tuolumne Grove of giant sequoias, then you will leave disappointed.  The giant tulip poplars here grow among smaller trees that include maples and oaks.  The smaller trees can prevent you from seeing the top of a big tree, but they also provide a nearby comparison that shows just how massive the ancient tulip poplars are.  In my mind, the scenery here compares favorably to nearby Great Smoky Mountains National Park's Albright Grove, another ancient tulip poplar forest that is much more difficult to reach.

Trailhead, north arm of Lower Loop

            An information kiosk at the trailhead contains a trail map and the full text of Kilmer's poem, and a separate shelter houses some interpretive signs about the forest.  Both arms of the Lower Loop leave from the information kiosk, but the south arm of the Lower Loop going left was closed due to storm damage on my visit.  Thus, I had to angle right and hike the north arm both directions, which turned a loop hike into a lollipop loop.

Climbing through rhododendron

            The north arm of the Lower Loop climbs gradually with cascading Little Santeetlah Creek downhill to the left.  Large amounts of rhododendron and mountain laurel crowd the understory, giving parts of this trail a tunnel-like feel.  At 0.3 miles, the trail splits.  The option going right undertakes a long moderate climb to Naked Ground, so you want to angle softly left to keep following the Lower Loop.

Bridge over Little Santeetlah Creek

            After dropping to cross Little Santeetlah Creek on an interesting wooden footbridge, the trail climbs a short but steep set of steps and curves right to round a ridge.  The moderate climb continues as you cross another small creek on a more ordinary wooden footbridge.  At 0.7 miles, you reach the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest dedication plaque.  A metal plaque set in a large boulder briefly describes Kilmer's life and tells you that the forest was dedicated in 1936.

Dedication plaque

            The dedication plaque is also a major trail intersection.  The south arm of the Lower Loop goes left here, but as I mentioned previously it was closed on my visit.  In another 20 feet, the trail splits to form its Upper Loop.  For no reason, I chose to turn right and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking the Upper Loop counterclockwise.

Tulip poplar beside regular (fully grown) tree

Tulip poplar with root system

            Almost immediately the display of large tulip poplar trees begins, and the trail takes you past large tree after large tree.  Often the large trees are so tall that smaller trees prevent you from seeing the top of the large tree.  In a few cases the large tree's root system is partially above ground, allowing you to see just how extensive the roots are.  I tried not to stop and admire every large tulip poplar, but you need to take your time around the Upper Loop to appreciate these trees.

Pair of large tulip poplars

            The Upper Loop offers a winding route through the tulip poplar grove that takes you past most of the large trees.  Sometimes you might wonder where this trail is going, but the serpentine route also keeps the grade gradual despite the somewhat steep hillside.  Just shy of 1.5 miles, you close the Upper Loop.  Unless the south arm of the Lower Loop has been repaired, you will need to retrace your steps 0.7 miles down the north arm of the Lower Loop to return to the trailhead and complete the hike.

First Broad River Trail in Shelby, NC (Blog Hike #899)

Trail: First Broad River Trail, a.k.a. Twin Trestle Trail, Carolina Thread Trail

Hike Location: City of Shelby Parks and Recreation
Geographic Location: west side of Shelby, NC (35.30434, -81.56516)
Length: 2.8 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: September 2022
Overview: A mostly flat out-and-back along the First Broad River.
Trail Information: https://www.carolinathreadtrailmap.org/trails/trail/first-broad-river-trail
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=922540
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of US 74 and SR 226 on the west side of Shelby, drive SR 226 north 0.7 miles to Grover Street and turn right on Grover St.  Drive Grover St. east 0.6 miles, crossing the First Broad River along the way, to the signed parking area for the First Broad River Trail on the left.  Turn sharply left and drive down the gravel road to the parking area, where the trail begins.

The hike: Rising near the southwest corner of North Carolina's massive and famous South Mountains State Park, the First Broad River traces a meandering southward course for 60 miles through the rolling Piedmont.  The river provides water for the towns of Lawndale and Shelby before emptying into the Broad River just north of the South Carolina state line.  Of course, the name First Broad River implies the existence of another nearby watercourse called the Second Broad River.  Indeed, the Second Broad River traces a similar course that finishes about 20 miles west/upstream from the First Broad River's mouth.  I could not find any watercourse in this area named the Third Broad River.

            The First Broad River Trail follows the bank of its namesake river for 1.4 miles on the west side of Shelby.  The trail's north end is at a parking lot and trailhead on Grover Street.  As presently constructed, the trail's south end is a dead end, though future plans call for the trail's extension further south.  This trail is part of the Carolina Thread Trail, a project designed to create a network of trails throughout the Charlotte Metro area.  This trail is also informally called the Twin Trestle Trail for reasons you will see early in the hike.

Grover Street trailhead

            From the trailhead parking area, walk down the concrete trail that heads toward the river.  A wooden railroad trestle soon comes into view across the grassy area to the right.  This trestle has not been used by trains for many years, but it still bridges the First Broad River and provides interesting history and scenery.

Suspension bridge over river

Wooden railroad trestle

            After a few hundred feet, you enter the woods, pass under Grover Street, and reach the suspension bridge that carries the trail over the First Broad River.  Rebuilt earlier this year, this bridge swings a decent bit, but careful and persistent forward stepping got me across without incident.  Now on the river's west side, the trail surface turns to dirt and gravel as it continues a southbound course through young forest with the river on your left.  Black walnut is the most common tree in this riverside forest, but some oak trees grow on the slightly higher blufftop areas.

Iron railroad trestle

First Broad River

            Near 0.3 miles, you pass under a second railroad trestle.  Made of iron, this more modern trestle still supports an active railroad line, so you may hear a train rumble overhead while you hike along the river.  Just past the second trestle, a bench on the left provides this trail's best view of the First Broad River.  A small unnamed creek flows into the river directly across from this bench.  This creek enters the river via a cascading waterfall when it has enough water, which it did not on my visit.

Hiking along the river

            Continuing downstream, for the most part the river stays nearby but out of sight on the left.  Several wooden footbridges take you over small side streams.  At 0.6 miles you pass under a power line; notice the low level dam in the river under this power line.  At 0.9 miles, you pass under US 74/SR 226 and enter a shrubbier area.  At 1.4 miles, the trail unceremoniously ends.  The only option is to turn around and retrace your steps to the trailhead to complete the hike.