Lava Beds National Monument: Black Crater and Thomas-Wright Battlefield Trails (Blog Hike #874)

Trails: Black Crater and Thomas-Wright Battlefield Trails

Hike Location: Lava Beds National Monument
Geographic Location: southwest of Tule Lake, CA (41.76504, -121.55673)
Length: 2.6 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2021
Overview: Two short trails exploring the natural and human history of the Lava Beds.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/labe/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=881254
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: There are several roads into Lava Beds National Monument, but the most direct route from SR 139 and Tule Lake is to take East Street west 5 miles to Hill Road and turn left on Hill Rd.  Drive Hill Rd. south 9.4 miles to its end at the main park road and turn right on the main park road.  The roadside parking area for Black Crater is located 4.8 miles ahead on the left.

The hike: Although the land today preserved as Lava Beds National Monument appears barren, rugged, and uninviting, visitors willing to make the journey into what seems like the middle of nowhere will find both natural and historic treasures.  The monument gets its name from lava flows that originated at the Medicine Lake Shield Volcano (centered around present-day Medicine Lake to the south) several millenia ago.  More than 800 caves have formed in these lava flows, and some of these caves are open to exploration by the general public.  Check at the Visitor Center for brochures and information before exploring the caves.

            The Lava Beds also have interesting human history.  During the Modoc War of 1872-1873, the Modoc people used the area's rough terrain to their advantage while besieged by the United States Army.  Although the Modoc were outnumbered 10 to 1, their knowledge of the terrain allowed them to hold out for several months before being captured and exiled to Oklahoma.

            Today the monument protects over 46,000 acres, and it preserves the land's rustic character by offering only a Visitor Center and a 43-site developed campground for amenities.  For dayhikers, the park offers many trails to choose from.  Because I came here while driving home from Crater Lake, I only had time for one not-too-hard hike.  I wanted a hike that would allow me to see both the area's natural and human history, and the hike described here fits that bill.  Although it was hot and sunny, I enjoyed this hike, and I left here wishing I had more time to spend in the Lava Beds.

Trailhead: Black Crater and Thomas-Wright Battlefield

            The trail starts at the north end of the parking area, where an interpretive sign and a brown carsonite post mark the trail's start.  The interpretive sign details events of the Modoc War and describes the Modoc people.  The trail heads east across the hot, sunny, desert-like terrain that characterizes this entire hike.  Thus, you need to wear a hat and/or sunscreen for this hike.

Trail splits

            In only a few hundred feet, the trail splits with the Black Crater Trail going right and the Thomas-Wright Battlefield Trail going left.  We will go both ways eventually, but I chose to angle right and visit Black Crater first.  Soon you pass an interpretive sign that points out a tree mold, which is a hole in the lava flow formed when the lava hit a tree.  Although the lava burned up the tree, moisture from the tree cooled the lava just enough to leave a cast of the tree behind.

Tree mold

            A fairly steep and rocky climb brings you to Black Crater at 0.25 miles.  Black Crater is a small spatter cone that erupted only about 3300 years ago.  Lava from here flowed mainly to the north and northeast, and the rough lumpy rocks that remain today look similar to the crater fragments found at the more famous Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve in Idaho.  Take some time to admire the unusual, stark, and black crater scenery.

Black Crater

            After exploring Black Crater, retrace your steps back to the trail intersection and turn right to begin the Thomas-Wright Battlefield Trail.  The single-track dirt trail descends gradually as it curves around the lava flow that originated at Black Crater.  A bench near the northern end of the lava flow provides rest for the weary, and some red paintbrush in full bloom brightened my path.

Hiking around the lava flow

Red paintbrush

            1.4 miles into the hike, a gradual climb brings you to the overlook at this trail's end.  This point overlooks a Modoc War battlefield to the east, and this battlefield was the last significant victory for the Modoc.  Weathered interpretive signs tell you about the battle, and nice views of Thomas Hill and Hardin Butte can be had to the south.

Battlefield overlook

Hardin Butte

            The trail ends at this overlook, so next you must retrace your steps back to the parking area to complete the hike.  When you are hiking this direction, you may notice a snow-capped mountain standing alone some 30 miles in the distance that you did not notice when you were hiking the other direction.  Yes, that mountain is Mount Shasta, which stands over seemingly everything in this part of the world.