Rocky Mountain National Park: Holzwarth Historic Site (Blog Hike #817)

Trail: (unnamed)
Hike Location: Rocky Mountain National Park
Geographic Location: north of Grand Lake, CO (40.37316, -105.85377)
Length: 1.3 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A nearly flat but sunny hike to a 1920's dude ranch.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=824425
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: The signed parking lot for Holzwarth Historic Site is located on the west side of US 34 10 miles north of Grand Lake.  The hike begins at the far end of the parking lot.

The hike: For my general comments on Rocky Mountain National Park (known locally as "Rocky" for short), see my hike in the park's Wild Basin area.  The short and nearly flat hike described here takes you to Holzwarth Historic Site, which preserves a 1920's dude ranch.  While this route is not a classic Rocky or even national park hike, it makes an interesting hiking option if you are unable to tackle one of the area's more substantial trails.

Trailhead at Holzwarth Historic Site

            From the signed trailhead at the rear of the parking area, the short entrance trail leads you to a cabin that now serves as an interpretive station and ranger outpost.  Here the route turns right and begins following the two-track gravel road that leads to the old dude ranch.  The road takes you through a sunny meadow with a few small ponds, so be prepared for the intense high elevation Rocky Mountain sun on this hike.

A young Colorado River

            Just shy of 0.4 miles, you cross a wooden footbridge over a young Colorado River less than 10 miles from the river's source.  The river is narrow and shallow here, and the water runs clear.  Some rusty primitive farming equipment sits beside the trail.  Continuing west, where an access road used by hunters exits right, angle left to keep heading for the ranch.

Camper cabins at the Never Summer Ranch

The "Mama Cabin"

            At 0.5 miles, you reach the short loop trail that tours the Never Summer Dude Ranch.  The ranch was built by Sophia and John Holzwarth in 1917 after Prohibition closed their saloon in Denver.  Guests stayed in either the rustic cabins that still stand on this site or in a lodge that used to stand near the Colorado River.  The "Mama Cabin," built between 1917 and 1921, is the ranch's largest structure, but the ranch also includes a taxidermy shop and an ice house among other structures.  The Holzwarth family operated the ranch until the 1970's, and this site did not become part of Rocky until 1975.  After walking the short loop trail through the ranch, retrace your steps to the parking lot to complete the hike.

Rocky Mountain National Park: Alpine Ridge Trail (Blog Hike #816)

Trail: Alpine Ridge Trail
Hike Location: Rocky Mountain National Park
Geographic Location: north of Grand Lake, CO (40.44156, -105.75365)
Length: 0.8 miles
Difficulty: 9/10 (Difficult)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A short but steep climb to fantastic above-treeline views.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=824423
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: This hike starts at Rocky Mountain National Park's Alpine Visitor Center, which is located on US 34 22 miles east of Grand Lake.  Park in the parking lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: For my general comments on Rocky Mountain National Park (known as "Rocky" for short), see my hike in the park's Wild Basin area.  Most national parks have a scenic drive that allows visitors to see the park's most famous scenery by car, but Rocky's Trail Ridge Road may be my favorite drive in the entire national park system.  The road traces its narrow namesake ridge and stays above treeline for nearly 10 miles, so the views down into the surrounding ravines are broad and deep.

            Several of Rocky's hiking trails take you above treeline, but the shortest and possibly easiest hike above treeline is the Alpine Ridge Trail described here.  The trail starts at the 11,796-foot Alpine Visitor Center, and it climbs to a 360-degree view at just over 12,000 feet.  The hike's "ease" and location near a major Visitor Center make it very popular, so you will not be alone on this trail.  Nevertheless, the climb and altitude will get you winded quickly, and the altitude combined with the wind can make for chilly conditions.  I came here in late July when the temperature was in the 80's in the park's gateway towns, and I needed a jacket for the windy 56-degree weather I encountered up here.

Alpine Ridge Trail's trailhead

            From the Alpine Visitor Center, walk north across the upper end of Fall River Road to find the signed trailhead for the Alpine Ridge Trail.  The trail starts by climbing a set of concrete steps before curving right and climbing gradually on first an asphalt and then gravel trail.  Although you are only a couple hundred feet above treeline, nice views emerge east down Fall River's valley.

View down Fall River's valley

Climbing the stone steps

            Soon you start climbing the first of two sets of stone steps.  Imagine the effort it must have taken to cut these huge stones and move them to this location!  Some signs identify common plants in the alpine tundra, which sports a unique blend of flowers and grasses.

View north toward Mummy Range

View west toward Never Summer Mountains

            After topping the second set of stone steps, you reach the small flat area at the top of this knob.  The majestic 13,000-foot peaks of the Mummy Range appear just to the north, while the jagged Never Summer Mountains on the park's west boundary appear across the valley to the west.  Few areas give you the top-of-the-world feeling that this knob does, so take some time to enjoy the views.  The trail ends at this viewpoint, so your only option is to climb back down the stone steps to return to the Visitor Center and complete this hike.  While you are here, be sure to browse the exhibits in the Alpine Visitor Center at this hike's trailhead; they provide more information about the high elevation habitats found up here.

Rocky Mountain National Park: Bear Lake and Alberta Falls (Blog Hike #815)

Trails: Bear Lake Nature and Glacier Gorge Trails
Hike Location: Rocky Mountain National Park
Geographic Location: west of Estes Park, CO (40.31182, -105.64255)
Length: 2.6 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A semi-loop to two popular destinations, Bear Lake and Alberta Falls.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=824186
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Estes Park, take US 36 west 3.9 miles to Bear Lake Road, which is reached just after passing through the entrance station for Rocky Mountain National Park.  Turn left on Bear Lake Rd. and drive Bear Lake Rd. 5.1 miles to the Bear Lake Park-and-Ride on the right.  Park in the large parking lot, then ride the free park shuttle up to the Bear Lake Trailhead, where this hike begins.  If the park shuttle is not operating (i.e. in non-peak season), you will have to drive all of the way to Bear Lake Trailhead and park there.

The hike: For my general comments on Rocky Mountain National Park (called "Rocky" for short), see my hike at the Wild Basin area in the park's southeast corner.  This hike is located near the center of the park, and it passes two of Rocky's most popular hiking destinations: Bear Lake and Alberta Falls.  Even better, you can take advantage of the park's free shuttle to eliminate some of the climbing on the return route if you come here when the shuttle is operating.  While this hike is not the longest or hardest of the 5 hikes I did in Rocky, it may be my favorite.

Bear Lake Trailhead

            This hike starts with a trip around the 0.6 mile Bear Lake Nature Trail, which circumnavigates its namesake lake.  Of the two trails that start at the Bear Lake Trailhead, take the one to the right and quickly reach the trail split that forms the loop around Bear Lake.  A large sign with a trail map stands here.  Some numbered posts correspond to an interpretive guide published by the Rocky Mountain Conservancy; this guide was available for purchase at the Bear Lake Trailhead ranger outpost when I came here.  To follow the posts in increasing order, this description turns right here and uses the trail going left as its return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.

View across Bear Lake toward Hallett Peak

            In only a couple hundred feet, you reach the main west-facing overlook across the length of Bear Lake.  12,713-foot Hallett Peak on the Continental Divide dominates this view, and it appears as a rectangular chunk of rock that still bore a little snow on my late July visit.  Continuing around the lake, ignore the trail that exits right for Bierstadt Lake and more distant destinations.  The next view looks south across Bear Lake and features 14,259-foot Longs Peak, the highest point in Rocky.  The interpretive guide describes the flora of the area, which include aspen, fir, and spruce trees.

View of Longs Peak (2nd peak from left)

            The trail undulates slightly, and a couple of rocky areas need to be negotiated as you round the west side of Bear Lake.  There are no famous mountain views from this side of the lake, but the clear shiny water is just as appealing.  At 0.6 miles, you close the Bear Lake Nature Trail's loop.  Angle right to get back to the Bear Lake Trailhead, then turn sharply right to begin the other trail that leaves this trailhead.  At the next intersection, angle left to head for Alberta Falls.

Heading to Alberta Falls

            The wide dirt trail descends moderately through a dense pine forest while passing some rock outcrops.  Winding Bear Lake Road appears to the left just before you cross one of Glacier Creek's many tributaries and reach a trail intersection.  The trail going left leads to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead shuttle stop, and we will take it at the end of the hike.  For now, continue straight to keep heading to Alberta Falls.

Descending toward Alberta Falls

            The trail begins a gradual climb as it crosses another tributary of Glacier Creek.  The total elevation gain on this hike is only about 200 vertical feet, so most people can manage the grade despite the 9000+ feet of altitude.  At 1.5 miles, you reach a cliff high above rushing Glacier Creek as the trail curves sharply right.

Tributary of Glacier Creek

            1.7 miles into the hike, you reach Alberta Falls.  The ribbon-type waterfall is about 30 feet high, and Glacier Creek provides plenty of water to fall.  The sheer rock surroundings make for a stark setting.  Rocky may have more attractive waterfalls, but the ease of access and high water volume make Alberta Falls one of the most popular waterfalls in the park.  Take a few minutes to enjoy the falling water.

Alberta Falls

            The trail continues past Alberta Falls and leads to other waterfalls and subalpine lakes, but all of those destinations require harder hikes to reach.  Thus, I turned around at Alberta Falls, retraced my steps to the first creek, and then turned right to hike the trail down to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead.  Ignore a trail that exits right and heads into the park's backcountry, and descend on a moderate to steep grade to cross Chaos Creek on a footbridge.  A gradual climb brings you to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead and the end of this hike.  Return to your car by riding the shuttle bus back downhill to the Bear Lake Park-and-Ride.

Rocky Mountain National Park: Wild Basin Trail to Ouzel Falls (Blog Hike #814)

Trail: Wild Basin Trail
Hike Location: Rocky Mountain National Park, Wild Basin Trailhead
Geographic Location: south of Estes Park, CO (40.20934,-105.56480)
Length: 5.6 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: An out-and-back passing three fantastic but different waterfalls.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/romo/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=823970
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Estes Park, take SR 7 south 12.8 miles to CR 84 and turn right on CR 84.  Drive CR 84 west 0.4 miles to the Wild Basin entrance for Rocky Mountain National Park.  Turn right to enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and drive the narrow, winding dirt/gravel park road to the Wild Basin Trailhead at its end.  Park as close to the Wild Basin Trailhead as you can.

The hike: When you think of Colorado's Rocky Mountains, most likely images of stark snow-capped peaks, perfect cone-shaped pines, and placid reflective lakes come to mind.  Not all of Colorado fits those images, but the scenery at Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park may very well be their origin.  Known to locals simply as "Rocky," the park was established by an act of Congress in 1915 at the insistence of Mary King Sherman, an influential Estes Park resident.  For over 100 years visitors have come from far and wide to get their eyes full of the scenery and feet full of the outdoor recreation that Colorado is famous for.

            Like many national parks, Rocky is divided into two distinct parts by a major ridge, in Rocky's case the Continental Divide.  Rocky's eastern part is more congested and touristy, and it is accessed by the tourist-driven town of Estes Park.  Rocky's western part is more remote, and the closest town providing services for visitors is Grand Lake.  Grand Lake has more of a rustic and wild west feel despite its tourism base.  I spent nights in both gateway towns, and I enjoyed the contrasting experiences they offered.

            The next 5 hikes are my fruits from the 4 days I spent hiking in Rocky during my July 2020 hiking trip to Colorado.  The hike described here explores the creeks and waterfalls of Rocky's Wild Basin area, which is tucked in the park's southeast corner.  More specifically, this hike takes you past three very different waterfalls, each of which has its own appeal.  While Wild Basin does not see the volume of visitors that areas close to Estes Park do, it also does not have the parking areas and other services.  Thus, I recommend arriving early in the morning or mid-afternoon to reduce crowds, and I would not come here on a weekend or a holiday.  I came here on a Monday morning and had a warm but nice hike with only a short road walk from my parking spot to the Wild Basin Trailhead.

Wild Basin Trailhead

            From the Wild Basin Trailhead, pick up the Wild Basin Trail as it heads southwest across a pair of bridges over small creeks with the main watercourse, North St. Vrain Creek, to your left.  The sound of rushing water will be your near-constant companion on this hike, and the audio is one of this hike's main attractions.  The trail climbs gradually through the usual subalpine mixture of aspen and pines.

            At 0.3 miles, the side trail that passes Copeland Falls exits left.  Turn left to descend slightly and reach the bank of North St. Vrain Creek near the base of the falls.  Copeland Falls consists of several drops, and the most impressive parts are located a couple hundred feet further up the side trail.  The creek provides plenty of water to fall, so Copeland Falls makes up for in power what it lacks in intricacy.

Lower Copeland Falls

Upper Copeland Falls

            Past the upper-most drop, the waterfall side trail rejoins the main route and continues upstream.  A few rocky areas need to be negotiated, but for the most part the wide dirt trail makes for easy going.  A large number of chipmunks seem to live in this area, and I heard some woodpeckers drilling for a meal in the dense forest.

Hiking up the Wild Basin Trail

            At 1.4 miles, the Thunder Lake Trail exits right just before you cross North St. Vrain Creek on a wide wooden footbridge.  The grade increases and the trail surface becomes rockier as the trail curves left to head up a side ravine.  1.8 miles into the hike, you reach a signed trail intersection with the Finch Lake Trail, which exits left.  Turn right and immediately cross a bridge that crosses the creek in the middle of Calypso Cascades.  Calypso Cascades are tall, slender, and rocky, and several aquatic channels come tumbling down through the trees and rocks.  Many people think Calypso Cascades is the best waterfall in Wild Basin, so take some time to enjoy the watery action.

Calypso Cascades

            If you are getting tired or running out of daylight, you should turn around here having seen this hike's most famous site.  To squeeze in one more waterfall, keep following the Wild Basin Trail as it heads for Ouzel Falls.  The trail maintains a somewhat level grade at first, and some small streams will need to be crossed via stepping stones.  Partially obstructed views across North St. Vrain Creek's valley emerge to the right.  Those views include the tip top of 11,724-foot Mount Orton to the northwest.

View across the valley

            At 2.3 miles, you begin the final ascent to Ouzel Falls, which is accomplished by a series of switchbacks and stone steps.  You reach Ouzel Falls at 2.7 miles.  Ouzel Falls features a tall single drop above a series of smaller rocky cascades.  Although many people prefer Calypso Cascades, Ouzel Falls is my favorite of the waterfall trio passed on this hike.

Ouzel Falls

            I chose to end my hike here and retrace my steps to the Wild Basin Trailhead, but a few longer options are also possible.  The Wild Basin Trail continues climbing past Ouzel Falls, and it reaches Ouzel Lake in another 2.2 miles and Bluebird Lake in another 3.6 miles.  As a second option, you could form an additional 2.1 mile loop by continuing upstream another 0.4 miles, hiking a connector trail down to the Thunder Lake Trail, and turning right on the Thunder Lake Trail.  Finally, you could hike the Finch Lake Trail down from Calypso Cascades, which would add 1.8 miles to this hike.  Choose your own adventure but mind your daylight and stamina when completing this hike.

Lookout Mountain Preserve and Nature Center: Forest and Meadow Loops (Blog Hike #813)

Trails: Forest and Meadow Loop Trails
Hike Location: Lookout Mountain Preserve and Nature Center
Geographic Location: southwest of Golden, CO (39.73071, -105.24804)
Length: 1.4 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A loop through the forested meadows atop Lookout Mountain.
Park Information: https://www.jeffco.us/1281/Lookout-Mountain-Preserve-and-Nature-Cen
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=823709
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: On the west side of Denver, take I-70 to the Paradise Hills exit (exit 256).  Exit and go west on US 40.  Drive US 40 west 1.4 miles to South Lookout Mountain Road and turn right on S. Lookout Mountain Rd.  Drive S. Lookout Mountain Rd. north 1.5 miles to Colorow Road and turn left on Colorow Rd.  Lookout Mountain Preserve and Nature Center is 1.1 miles ahead on the right.  Park in the blacktop lot in front of the Nature Center.

The hike: Owned and maintained by Jefferson County, Lookout Mountain Preserve and Nature Center occupies 100 acres atop its namesake mountain in the foothills west of Denver.  As its name suggests, the mountain offers superlative views over the Denver metro area, but to get those views you will need to go down the mountain a short distance to Lookout Mountain Park.  There are no broad views available from the Nature Center or in the preserve.

            The Nature Center offers some interesting exhibits on Rocky Mountain flora and fauna, and the preserve offers 2.6 miles of trails mostly on easy to moderate grades.  Although the preserve also connects to the extensive regional trail system that leads to adjacent parks, the hike described here features the two short nature trails contained wholly within the preserve.  I came here early on a Sunday morning, and although the Nature Center building was closed due to the Covid pandemic, I found the preserve lightly used and had a short but pleasant hike.

Trailhead at Nature Center

            From the front of the Nature Center, walk southwest toward the Boettcher Mansion with the parking lot to your right, then turn left to begin the Forest Loop.  The two nature trails form two loops laid out end-to-end, so you have to hike the Forest Loop to access the Meadow Loop.  Where the Forest Loop splits to form its loop, angle left to begin hiking the loop clockwise.

Crossing a bridge

            The wide dirt Forest Loop descends gradually, passes a nice wooden bench, and crosses a wooden footbridge that seems to span nothing but dirt.  Although this trail is called the Forest Loop, the pine trees are rather sparse, and tall grass covering the "forest" floor has plenty of sunlight to soak up.  At 0.3 miles, you reach a trail intersection.  The Forest Loop turns right here to continue its loop, but this hike goes straight to begin the Meadow Loop, which continues a gradual descent.

Looking across the meadow

            The Meadow Loop undulates gently as it passes under a power line, and true to its name the smattering of pine trees nearly disappears, leaving an open grassy area.  Some prairie wildflowers were in bloom on my visit, and I did some good bird viewing in this area.  The power lines and Lookout Mountain Road close to the left remind you that you are in suburban Denver.  

"View" toward downtown Denver

            At 0.6 miles, the trail curves right as it begins climbing moderately.  In addition to the usual wildlife, Lookout Mountain also has a free range deer herd that I saw uphill to the left as I walked this section of trail.  This herd can stop local traffic when it decides to cross a road, as I found out during my drive to the trailhead.

Lookout Mountain deer herd

            Just past 1 mile, you reach the end of the Meadow Loop.  Turn left to continue the Forest Loop, which now climbs on the steepest grade of this hike.  At the next trail intersection, you can go either straight or left: both options take you back to the parking lot.  I chose the left option because it takes you past some interesting rock outcrops before it passes the Boettcher Mansion and returns to the parking lot to complete the hike.  If you have more time and energy, the Lookout Mountain Trail starts across the street from the Nature Center, and it descends 0.8 somewhat steep miles to reach Lookout Park and its famous views of Denver.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park: Raccoon Trail (Blog Hike #812)

Trail: Raccoon Trail
Hike Location: Golden Gate Canyon State Park
Geographic Location: northwest of Golden, CO (39.87552, -105.44975)
Length: 3.7 miles
Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A lollipop loop passing fantastic views at Panorama Point.
Park Information: https://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/GoldenGateCanyon
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=823528
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of US 6 and SR 93 in Golden, take US 6 west 11.5 miles to SR 119, then continue straight to begin heading north on SR 119.  Drive SR 119 15.8 miles to Gap Road and turn right on gravel Gap Rd.  When Gap Rd. enters the park after another 1.1 miles, turn left to head for the park's Reverend's Ridge Campground, which is reached in another 0.7 miles.  The hike starts behind the campground office.

The hike: Established in 1960, Golden Gate Canyon State Park protects 12,119 acres of classic Rocky Mountain Front Range scenery.  The park and canyon get their name from some small gold deposits that were discovered in this area in the mid 1800's.  The park is located less than an hour northwest of Denver, so it receives large numbers of visitors, especially on weekends.  Plan a weekday visit or plan to arrive early in the morning if you want to find a parking spot when you arrive.

            The park has many amenities including a Visitor Center with excellent interpretive exhibits, 2 campgrounds with both developed and primitive sites, several meeting spaces available for rent, and 42 miles of hiking trails.  It would take days to hike all of the available hiking routes in this park, so this hike features only one trail: the park's Raccoon Trail.  The Raccoon Trail combines moderate difficulty with a visit to Panorama Point, possibly the park's most scenic site, and therefore it is the park's most popular trail.

Raccoon Trail's campground trailhead

            There are a couple of places from which you can start the Raccoon Trail, but this description starts at the Reverend's Ridge Campground because it is easy to find and offers relatively plentiful day-use parking.  From the trailhead behind the campground office and amphitheater, the signed Raccoon Trail heads into a forest dominated by ponderosa pines and soon begins descending.  Where another arm of the Raccoon Trail comes in from another part of the campground to the left, switchback to the right and continue descending.

Climbing through a ravine

            After descending 250 vertical feet and passing under a power line, you reach the intersection that forms the Raccoon Trail's loop at 0.5 miles.  To do this hike's climbing on a gentler grade, I chose to turn right here and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.  The wide dirt trail climbs on a gradual to moderate grade through forest that now features patches of pines and aspens.  A creek flows to your left, but it can be heard more often than seen.

            At 0.9 miles, you reach an intersection with the Mule Deer Trail, which enters from the right and heads south along the park's west boundary.  Turn left as the Mule Deer and Raccoon Trails begin to run conjointly and descend gradually.  Although both of these trails are open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horses, I saw no evidence of heavy horse use, and I saw hikers almost exclusively when I hiked here on a Saturday morning in mid-July.

Climbing through steeper terrain

            Soon the climb resumes through steeper and rockier terrain, and a couple of switchbacks need to be negotiated.  The grade is never too steep, but the 9000+ feet of elevation will get you winded faster than usual.  At 1.5 miles, you reach the highest elevation of this hike at Panorama Point's observation platform.  The view north and west from here is legendary: rolling aspen and pine covered hills lie in the foreground, but snow-capped mountains on the Continental Divide and in Roosevelt National Forest stand off in the distance.  Because Panorama Point is also accessible by car, you will almost certainly not be alone here, but take some time to have a trail snack and enjoy the views.

View from Panorama Point

            When you are ready to leave the view, head up to the parking lot and angle left to continue the Raccoon and Mule Deer Trails, which head east from the parking lot.  Some picnic tables and vault toilets are also located at this parking lot.  The next section of trail traverses a steep hillside on a somewhat rocky but level grade.  Views of Thorodin Mountain's craggy and pine-covered slopes appear straight ahead and to the left.

Thorodin Mountain and beyond

            Just past 2 miles, the Raccoon and Mule Deer Trails part ways.  Angle left to stay on the Raccoon Trail and begin a long descent.  The descent is gradual at first, but it becomes quite steep when you switchback off the side of the ridge.  Some meadows punch through the tree cover here, so be prepared for some sun exposure.

Hiking through a meadow

            After crossing a small creek on a wooden footbridge, you pass a private cabin just before a spur trail exits right to a parking lot that serves this cabin.  This point is the lowest elevation on this hike, and you should turn left to begin climbing gradually up a ravine following a power line.  At 3.2 miles, you close the loop.  Turn right and retrace your steps uphill to Reverend's Ridge Campground to complete the hike.  In addition to camping, this campground also offers a short nature trail that you could tack on to this hike while you are here.

Garden of the Gods Park: Palmer/Scotsman/Bretag Loop (Blog Hike #811)

Trails: Palmer, Scotsman, Central Garden, and Bretag Trails
Hike Location: Garden of the Gods Park
Geographic Location: west side of Colorado Springs, CO (38.88125, -104.88037)
Length: 2.8 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: A loop hike around and among the garden's famous big rocks.
Park Information: https://www.gardenofgods.com/
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=823355
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: In Colorado Springs, take I-25 to Garden of the Gods Boulevard (exit 146).  Exit and go west on Garden of the Gods Blvd.  Drive Garden of the Gods Blvd. west 2.2 miles to 30th Street and turn left on 30th St.  The Garden of the Gods Visitor Center is located 1.5 miles ahead on the left.  Stop in the Visitor Center to pick up a trail map and browse the exhibits, then drive into the garden.  Ideally you want to park in the main parking lot (Parking Lot #2), but in reality you will need to park wherever you can find a space.  This loop hike is easily accessible from parking lots #2, #5, #6, #7, #11, #12, and #13.

The hike: Located on the west side of Colorado Springs, Garden of the Gods Park is the crown jewel of the City of Colorado Springs' impressive park system.  The area got its name from an 1859 survey team, one member of which said that the area's large stone spires were "a fit place for the gods to assemble."  The land became a city park in 1909 when the children of Charles Elliott Perkins donated it to the city after his death.  Terms of the gift stated that the land remain free and accessible to the public, and no structures can be built on the land except those necessary to maintain the park.  Consistent with those terms, the park's Visitor Center is actually located outside the park's east boundary.

            The stone spires remain a major attraction today, and the park's location near Colorado Springs combined with the free admission make it a popular destination with tourists and hikers alike.  Many people simply drive around the park's loop roads stopping only occasionally to view the rocks from developed overlook platforms.  Yet to really get a feel for the area and to see some of the more intricate smaller rock formations, you will need to get out of your car and hike one of the park's many trails.  The hike described here forms a loop through the park's largest rock spires, but it also passes through the park's natural desert terrain, thus giving a good sample of all the park has to offer.  Due to the park's popularity, I highly recommend a weekday morning or off-season visit to avoid the huge, overflowing crowds that can plague this park.

Kissing Camels, as seen from Parking Lot #2

            Starting at Parking Lot #2, before you head out into the trail system, take a few minutes and admire the view from the overlook platform at the south end of the parking lot.  Located at the very north end of the big rocks, the deep red sandstone of North Gateway Rock, the Tower of Babel, and Kissing Camels appears to the right, while the younger and lighter White Rock appears to the left.  After admiring this famous view, walk north across the park road and turn left to begin the Palmer Trail, the first leg of our loop.

Trailhead at Parking Lot #2

            The Palmer Trail stays close to the park road at first as it climbs gradually with the park's north boundary just to the right.  The rocky terrain, lack of trees, and abundance of sagebrush make this hike feel more like a desert hike than one you might expect in Colorado.  The sun is more powerful at this park's high elevation, so the lack of shade means you will want to wear a hat and perhaps sunscreen on this hike, especially during the summer.

Grey Rock

            The trail curves left to begin a southward course as it weaves in and out of several narrow ravines.  The elevation here is a couple hundred feet higher than the main garden, so you get nice and different views down at the largest rocks.  Some interesting smaller rock outcrops are also located over here, and broad views open up south toward Manitou Springs.

View south toward Manitou Springs

            The trail descends on a moderate grade as spur trails to other parking areas exit left.  At 1.25 miles, you reach the Scotsman Picnic Area and Parking Lot #13, which are located across the road to the left.  The Palmer Trail continues south to head toward the garden's southwest corner, but this hike turns left to cross the road, pass through the picnic area, and reach an intersection with the Scotsman Trail.  Turn left to begin heading northeast on the Scotsman Trail.

Hiking the Scotsman Trail

            The Scotsman Trail climbs moderately as nice views of Sleeping Giant Rock appear to the right.  At 1.7 miles, you cross a park road near Parking Lot #6 and enter the garden's central area.  When you intersect a concrete trail, angle right to begin hiking on the Central Garden Trail.

Pikes Peak in the distance

            The Central Garden Trail is the park's most popular trail because it winds among the biggest rocks.  Interpretive signs tell about the history of the rocks and describe the different kinds of rocks in this "garden."  Views of famous Pikes Peak can be had to the southwest.  I also did some nice wildlife viewing in this area that included a stellar jay and some mule deer.

South Gateway Rock

            Stay on the concrete trail and turn right at each intersection as the trail passes through the narrow gap between North and South Gateway Rocks.  The park's dedication plaque is attached to the south face of North Gateway Rock.  After passing White Rock on the left, you cross the park road near the main entrance road and reach a major trail intersection.  Turn left to leave the concrete and begin the Bretag Trail, this hike's final leg.

White Rock

            The wide gravel Bretag Trail heads gradually uphill through a grassy area with the garden's big rocks visible across the park road to the west.  Ignore the Dakota Trail that exits right and close the loop by returning to the trailhead adjacent to Parking Lot #2 at 2.8 miles.  Be sure to check out the exhibits and films in the Visitor Center before you leave, and if crowds are manageable you could also explore the southwestern end of the garden, which features interesting Balanced Rock.

Roosevelt National Forest: Waldrop Trail to Brainard Lake (Blog Hike #810)

Trails: Waldrop, South St. Vrain, and Brainard Lake Cutoff Trails
Hike Location: Roosevelt National Forest, Brainard Lake Recreation Area
Geographic Location: northwest of Boulder, CO (40.08095, -105.53491)
Length: 6.2 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: July 2020
Overview: The back road to Brainard Lake.
Area Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recarea/?recid=28182
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=823099
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Boulder, take SR 119 west 16.5 miles to the town of Nederland.  At the center of Nederland, take the second exit from the traffic circle to begin heading north on SR 72.  Drive SR 72 north 11.5 miles to the signed entrance road for Brainard Lake, which is located on the left just past the town of Ward.  Turn left and drive the paved Brainard Lake entrance road 2.5 miles to the signed Gateway Trailhead parking area on the right.  Park here.

The hike: Established in 1902, Roosevelt National Forest comprises 813,799 mountainous acres east of the Continental Divide in northern Colorado's Front Range.  The forest was originally part of the Medicine Bow Forest Reserve that today comprises large sections of southeastern Wyoming, but it was renamed Colorado National Forest in 1910 and renamed again in 1932 to honor President Theodore Roosevelt, an early leader in conservation.  In some sense the forest forms a shield for adjacent Rocky Mountain National Park, but it has some interesting and scenic destinations in its own right.

            One of the forest's most popular and scenic areas is Brainard Lake.  The charming sub-alpine lake sits at the base of the Continental Divide, yet it is only 45 minutes from downtown Boulder.  Visitors can drive to Brainard Lake, but that option requires a large entrance fee, plus the lake's popularity means that the parking lots around the lake fill up quickly.  Thus, a better way to get to Brainard Lake is to hike the 6.2 mile out-and-back described here.  This hike has the additional advantage of letting you see some classic high-elevation Colorado pine forest up close and personal.

Brainard Gateway Trailhead

            From the information building at the Brainard Gateway Trailhead, pick up the Waldrop Trail (Roosevelt National Forest Trail #814) as it heads west down a gradual slope covered with pine trees.  These pine trees will be your near-constant companions on this hike.  After only a few hundred feet, you reach an intersection with the Sourdough Trail, a multi-day backpack trail that goes right and left.  Continue straight to remain on the Waldrop Trail.

Hiking through the pines

            The well-constructed and well-maintained trail climbs gradually, and a couple of wet areas are crossed via short wooden boardwalks.  The Waldrop Trail doubles as a snow-shoeing trail in the winter, and at 0.4 miles the summer and winter routes split with the summer route going left.  The winter activities explain why all of the trail signs stand well over your head: you would be standing on several feet of snow here in the winter.  At 0.7 miles, the spur trail to Red Rock Lake and the Brainard Lake Road exits left.  Angle right to keep heading for Brainard Lake.

Rough section of trail

           The next mile is the hardest part of the hike as the trail dips in and out of several ravines on a rocky, rooty, and occasionally wet course.  The overall elevation change is insignificant, but the rough trail conditions make for slow going.  1.7 miles into the hike, the trail enters a small meadow that gives your first views of 13,229-foot Mount Audubon to the northwest, and another spur trail exits left to the Brainard Lake Road.  Angle right to continue the Waldrop Trail and walk across the meadow.  I saw a large number of chipmunks scurrying around this meadow when I hiked here on a warm summer afternoon.

Mount Audubon across the meadow

            The trail descends slightly over some narrow wooden boardwalks to cross South St. Vrain Creek on a wooden footbridge at 1.9 miles.  The creek is a classic clear-flowing Rocky Mountain stream, and the sound of the abundant water cascading over rocks makes for a pleasant ambiance.  Next comes the steepest climb of the hike, but the trail only gains just over 200 vertical feet in 0.7 miles.  Nevertheless, the 10,000+ foot elevation can make this climb seem much harder than usual.

South St. Vrain Creek

            At 2.2 miles, the Waldrop Trail ends at an intersection with the South St. Vrain Trail.  Turn left to continue climbing on the South St. Vrain Trail.  This trail is named for the cascading creek that remains within earshot for most of the trail's distance.  2.5 miles into the hike, you reach the top of a pair of switchbacks where the Brainard Lake Cutoff Trail exits left.  Turn left to begin the final leg of our journey to Brainard Lake.

Starting the final leg

            One of the newest trails at Brainard Lake, the Cutoff Trail climbs a little more before leveling out and reaching the dam that forms Brainard Lake 3 miles into the hike.  To get the best lake views with the most solitude, head up the right (north) shore and rest on one of the boulders that sits on the lake shore.  The view is classic Colorado: the clear lake waters ripple in the foreground, pine trees shaped as perfect cones cover the hillside in the middle ground, and the snow-capped bare rock of Pawnee Peak and Shoshoni Peak on the Continental Divide punctuate the sky in the distance.  Unlike people who drove to Brainard Lake, you earned this view, so take some time to enjoy it.

Brainard Lake

            Several trails head further upward from Brainard Lake, and they lead to other scenic destinations such as Mount Audubon, Long Lake, Lake Isabelle, and Pawnee Pass.  These areas are worth the exploration if you have the time and energy.  When you are ready to return to the Gateway Trailhead, a ski trail provides an alternate return route, but it becomes very wet and overgrown in the summer.  Thus, the best option is to retrace your steps along the Waldrop Trail to complete the hike.