Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Roche-A-Cri State Park: Top of the Rock and Acorn Trails (Blog Hike #691)

Trails: Top of the Rock and Acorn Trails
Hike Location: Roche-A-Cri State Park
Geographic Location: north of Adams, WI (44.00346, -89.82130)
Length: 3 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: June 2018
Overview: A steep climb to Roche-A-Cri followed by a fairly flat hike around Roche-A-Cri.
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=941187
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Roche-A-Cri State Park is located on the west side of SR 13 3.2 miles north of Adams or 1.6 miles south of SR 13’s intersection with SR 21.  Enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and drive the one-way park loop road 0.6 miles to the parking area for the Top of the Rocks Trail on the right.

The hike: Central Wisconsin is dotted with tall, flat-topped, and cliff-sided rock islands that stand many feet above the surrounding flat land.  These rock islands formed at the end of the last ice age when water draining from glacial Lake Wisconsin eroded surrounding sediment away.  While the Wisconsin Dells in the Wisconsin River are the most famous and most visited of these rock islands, Roche-A-Cri is one of the largest of them.  Roche-A-Cri is a French word that translates to “crevice in the rock.”  This rock island earned this name from French explorers during the 17th and 18th centuries due to a large cleft in the rock’s structure that is visible from several vantage points.
            The land came under state ownership in 1938 when the Wisconsin State Highway Commission acquired it as a roadside rest area for SR 13.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) did considerable work here, and in 1948 the property was transferred to the state’s Conservation Commission.  The park has only a 41-site campground, a playground, some picnic areas, and a few trails for amenities, and thus it receives relatively few visitors.  The hike described here features the Acorn Trail, which offers a grand circle tour of the park’s interesting sites, but also takes you to the top of Roche-A-Cri for the park’s most famous viewpoint.  Note that although the park lists the Acorn Trail at 3.5 miles long, the distances I have given here are more accurate based on my observations.
Start of Top of the Rock Trail
            There are several places where you could start the Acorn Trail.  To do the steep climb to the top of Roche-A-Cri first, I chose to start at the signed Top of the Rock Trail’s trailhead on the west side of Roche-A-Cri.  The Top of the Rock Trail quickly reaches the base of the rock, where you start climbing the stairway that leads to the top.  The original stairway up Roche-A-Cri was made of wood and dated to 1992, but the metal stairway you climb today was built in 2012.
            303 steps and nearly 200 vertical feet later, you reach the flat top of Roche-A-Cri.  A left curve brings you to the main overlook, which offers vistas to the north and west.  Because Roche-A-Cri is the highest point for many miles in these directions, the views are spectacular.  An interpretive sign describes the layers of rock that make up Roche-A-Cri and how crumbly some of these rocks are.  Take some time to enjoy the views and learn of the area’s geologic history.
View north from Roche-A-Cri

View west from Roche-A-Cri
            The Top of the Rock Trail ends at this viewpoint, so next you must descend back down the steps to return to the parking area that contains your car.  If all you want to see is the view from Roche-A-Cri, you can end your visit now.  To also do a “real” hike, find the Acorn Trail by heading west across the park loop road to find a sign bearing a park trail map and the universal hiking symbol.  Walk west on an old road between some vault toilets on the right and a picnic area on the left to reach the signed intersection with the Acorn Trail, which goes right and left.  Turn left to begin a counterclockwise journey around the Acorn Trail, a hiking trail that doubles as a cross country ski trail in the winter.
Spur that leads to the Acorn Trail
            The grass/dirt trail heads south through an area with short oak and pine trees and a dense grassy understory.  Where the signed Eagle Ridge Trail exits left to head for an alternate trailhead, stay right to remain on the Acorn Trail.  Although the Acorn Trail is not blazed, most intersections are signed, and the wide route is easy to follow. 
At 0.5 miles, the trail curves left through a sunny area that features some taller pine trees and some prairie plants.  Soon you reenter the woods.  Ignore a trail exiting right that leads to the winter/prairie parking area. 
Hiking the Acorn Trail
Near 1 mile into the hike you reach a confusing unsigned trail intersection on the bank of Carter Creek, a slow-moving tannin-colored creek with some rocks placed along its bank to stabilize the creek’s channel.  The trail going straight is the Spring Peeper Trail; it leads to the park office.  The Acorn Trail turns left here to reach the park loop road’s parking lot for the petroglyphs.  This parking lot would be an alternate starting place for the Acorn Trail if the Top of the Rock Trail’s parking lot is full.
            Cross the park road and head up some wooden steps to reach the petroglyphs carved into the south face of Roche-A-Cri.  These rock pictures are 400-1100 years old, but some more recent graffiti also appears on this rock face.  Some interpretive signs tell of the petroglyphs and the people who left them here.
Petroglyphs on Roche-A-Cri
            Past the rock face, look for the sign that marks where the Acorn Trail heads north toward the park’s campground.  The next segment of trail passes between the campground on the right and Roche-A-Cri on the left, and it represents the Acorn Trail’s closest approach to Roche-A-Cri.  Ignore the campground spur that exits right and the Mound Trail that exits left.
Just shy of 1.4 miles, you cross the park loop road again.  Continuing north through more oak/pine forest, at 1.8 miles you reach Chickadee Rock, a tall bumpy rock outcrop that is a very small version of Roche-A-Cri.  The Chickadee Rock Nature Trail exits left here, so you need to stay right to continue following the Acorn Trail.
Chickadee Rock
Next the trail heads into the park’s northwest corner.  Vehicle traffic from nearby county roads will be heard in this area.  At 2.3 miles, you enter an interesting yellow birch planting that features many young yellow birch trees.  More winding brings you to the close of the Acorn Trail’s loop.  Turn left to head back through the picnic area to the Top of the Rock Trail parking lot to complete the hike.

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