Cumberland Falls State Resort Park: CCC/Sheltowee Trace/Rock House Loop (Blog Hike #638)

Trails: CCC, Sheltowee Trace, and Rock House Trails

Hike Location: Cumberland Falls State Resort Park

Geographic Location: southwest of Corbin, KY (36.83891, -84.33832)

Length: 2.7 miles

Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)

Dates Hiked: May 2017, June 2020

Overview: A loop hike using the Sheltowee Trace and passing impressive Cumberland Falls.

Park Information: https://parks.ky.gov/corbin/parks/resort/cumberland-falls-state-resort-park

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=940314

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: In southern Kentucky, take I-75 to US 25W (exit 18 or 25, depending on whether you are going north or south on I-75).  Exit and take US 25W 3 miles north from exit 18 or 3 miles south from exit 25 to SR 90.  Go west on SR 90.  Park at the state park’s DuPont Lodge, which is located on the left 7.4 miles west of US 25W.

The hike: Often called the “Niagara of the South,” Cumberland Falls has been attracting visitors for centuries.  The first European-born person to see the falls was Dr. Thomas Walker, who in 1750 named the river and waterfall after the Duke of Cumberland, a son of England’s King George II.  Ownership of the falls changed several times until 1927, when T. Coleman DuPont offered to buy the falls and donate it to the Commonwealth of Kentucky for the creation of a state park.  Cumberland Falls State Park was officially dedicated in 1931, thus making this area one of the oldest state parks in a state with a rich history of parks and conservation.

            While the falls remains the park’s main attraction, Cumberland Falls State Park offers several nice amenities, including an historic 51-room lodge, a cozy 50-site campground, a picnic area, a swimming pool, a gift shop near the falls area, and 17 miles of hiking trails.  The hiking route suggested here passes through the congested falls area, but it has several advantages over other possible routes.  First, the hike starts at DuPont Lodge, where you are likely to be able to find a parking spot.  Second, this route takes some of the park’s lesser-used trails to get to the falls, so trail traffic is usually quite low except at the always-crowded falls area.  Third, this hike spends significant time on the Sheltowee Trace, Kentucky’s best long-distance backpacking trail.

            On a personal note, my family has taken several trips to Cumberland Falls.  Cumberland Falls is a regionally popular honeymoon destination, and in July 1972 my parents came here on their honeymoon.  I brought my mom back here in 2004, but I did not get to do any significant hiking at Cumberland Falls until the last day of my May 2017 Kentucky hiking trip.  I had intended to hike the Eagle Falls Trail on the more secluded west side of Cumberland Falls, but the overflowing parking lot at that trailhead caused me to choose this hike instead.

Start of Trail #4 beside lodge

            The hike begins on the Civilian Conservation Corps Memorial Trail (Trail #4), which starts at a wooden post and information kiosk on the front left side of DuPont Lodge.  The depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built many of the park’s original facilities and trails, including some stone steps that are still used by this trail today.  Trails at Cumberland Falls State Resort Park are identified by both name and number, and they are marked with yellow paint blazes that also contain the trail’s number.

The trail heads northeast with a vertical sandstone cliff separating you from the park’s cottage area uphill to the left.  The CCC built some tool storage compartments into these cliffs, and some interpretive signs point them out for you to see today.  Large amounts of American holly grow under this cliff line.

CCC storage compartment in cliffs

            At 0.4 miles, the trail curves sharply right as you cross one of the park’s horse trails twice in quick succession.  Camper’s Path (Trail #5) also exits left here; it leads 0.5 miles to the park’s Ridgeline Campground.  The terrain’s relief lessens as you begin heading southwest on a course that is almost parallel to but downhill from the path you hiked earlier.  At 0.6 miles, a nice view of the back of DuPont Lodge appears uphill to the right.

Back of DuPont Lodge

            After a spur trail to the lodge exits right, you descend another long set of CCC-built stone steps.  At 0.75 miles, you intersect the Cumberland River Trail (Trail #2) as the Cliffside Picnic Area comes into view downhill and the Cumberland River comes within earshot just beyond the picnic area.  To keep heading for Cumberland Falls, you need to turn right here.

            Soon you learn why this picnic area is called the Cliffside Picnic Area, as Trails #2 and #4 run conjointly along the base of a tall vertical sandstone cliff.  This cliff also features a nice rock shelter and, if it has rained recently, a low-volume waterfall.  After descending a single switchback, Trails #2 and #4 end at an intersection with the picnic area access road.  Turn right to head out of the picnic area, but first go down to the river to view the Edward Moss Gatliff Bridge.  Built in 1954, this stone bridge with graceful arches gives SR 90 motorists safe passage over the Cumberland River.

Gatliff Bridge

            After exiting the picnic area, carefully cross SR 90 to reach the huge parking lot for Cumberland Falls.  Instead of walking through the parking lot, angle right to pick up the Sheltowee Trace (Trail #1), which is marked by turtle-shaped blazes and an official-looking national recreation trail marker.  The Sheltowee Trace stays within a narrow strip of trees between the parking lot to the left and SR 90 to the right.  The Cumberland Falls Trail (Trail #6) soon enters from the right.

            At 1.2 miles, you reach the Cumberland Falls Visitor’s Center and Gift Shop.  Just past these buildings lie the falls itself.  The first viewpoint offers a top-side view from a rocky outcrop, but some concrete steps lead down to the postcard view from beside the outcrop.  At 65 feet high and 125 feet wide, this roaring river waterfall is a real sight to behold.  Cumberland Falls is one of only two waterfalls in the world to produce a moonbow (a rainbow created by light from the moon) with its mist, but you will have to come at the right time of night during a full moon to see it.  Take some time to enjoy this magnificent sight.

Cumberland Falls

            The shortest route back to the lodge is Trail #6, but to see some more of the Cumberland River and more rock outcrops, exit the falls area by continuing north on the Sheltowee Trace, which is also called the Moonbow Trail in this area.  The trail climbs moderately and crosses some small streams on wooden footbridges.  Many of the bridges in this park have roof shingles nailed to their floors to provide traction.  Twice the Wildflower Loop Trail (Trail #12) exits right and offers an opportunity to short-cut this hike.  Stay left to remain on the Sheltowee Trace.

Cumberland River below the falls

            The trail descends some steep wooden steps to return to a riverside course.  The next 0.4 miles feature a decent amount of up-and-down as the trail parallels the river, heading downstream.  Overall, the terrain is rather rocky and the going quite slow.  Near 2 miles into the hike, you reach a recent trail reroute.  The trail now turns right to head uphill to a large rock house with a low-volume seasonal waterfall.

Rock house on Rock House Trail

            The trail curves left to climb above the rock house via a more gradual set of wooden steps.  At 2.1 miles, you reach a junction with the Rock House Trail (Trail #7).  The Rock House Trail is the last trail that heads back to the lodge, so you need to turn right to leave the Sheltowee Trace and begin the Rock House Trail.

            The Rock House Trail climbs gradually along the base of another cliff.  After climbing another short set of steps, the Anvil Branch Trail (Trail #11) exits left.  Continue straight to remain on the Rock House Trail, which soon ends at the Wildflower Loop Trail (Trail #12).  Turn left on the Wildflower Loop Trail.

Climbing on Wildflower Loop Trail

            The Wildflower Loop Trail climbs moderately to enter the Clifty Campground at 2.5 miles.  To get back to the lodge, turn left and walk the main campground road out to SR 90.  Turn right on SR 90 and walk along the road’s wide shoulder to reach the lodge at 2.7 miles and complete the hike.