Friday, April 14, 2017

Parkin Archeological State Park (Blog Hike #626)

Trail: Village Trail
Hike Location: Parkin Archeological State Park
Geographic Location: west of Earle, AR (35.27678, -90.55519)
Length: 0.8 miles
Difficulty: 0/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: March 2017
Overview: A short concrete loop through a former Mississippian village site.
Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=594968
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: Northwest of Memphis, take I-55 to US 64 (exit 10).  Exit and go west on US 64.  Drive US 64 west 22 miles to SR 184 in the town of Parkin.  Turn right on SR 184.  The state park entrance is 0.1 miles ahead on the left.  Park in the only parking lot.

The hike: The date was June 1541 when Hernando de Soto’s Spanish expedition first set foot in Casqui, as this site was called in the Mississippian tongue.  When de Soto arrived, the Mississippians had lived in Casqui for over 500 years, and de Soto found a thriving moat-protected village that served as the political center for its tribe.  The village got its name from its Chieftain Casqui, who ruled the tribe from a house built atop a mound that towered over the village.
            At the time of de Soto’s arrival, the village was suffering from an extended seasonal drought, and Chieftain Casqui asked de Soto to pray to his God for rain.  De Soto’s journals state that his expedition raised a massive cross atop the chief’s mound, and a drought-breaking rain came the very next day.  Fragments of bald cypress wood probably from that cross can be seen in the park’s museum today. 
Although Casqui was abandoned about 100 years after de Soto’s visit, Casqui was not the most recent village to exist on this site.  In the early 1900’s, an African-American community called Sawdust Hill housed workers of a nearby lumber mill owned by the Northern Ohio Cooperage and Lumber Company.  The mill closed in 1945, and in 1964 the site became a National Historic Landmark.  Today the site is explored by a single 0.8 mile concrete lollipop loop trail, which is the subject of this blog entry.
Trailhead behind Visitor Center
Before you hit the trail, take a few minutes to tour the small museum, which features some nice pottery unearthed from the site, and pick up a self-guided tour brochure.  After touring the museum, walk out the Visitor Center’s back door to begin the concrete Village Trail.  The chieftain’s mound can be seen straight ahead, and very quickly you cross a wooden bridge over what remains of the moat that surrounded Casqui.  This moat has been filled in by much sedimentation, and it would have been much wider and deeper (and filled with water from the nearby St. Francis River) in the 1500’s when de Soto came here.
After crossing the bridge, the Village Trail splits to form its loop.  To follow the trail in the direction described in the self-guided tour brochure, turn right to hike the loop counterclockwise.  The next segment of trail heads down what used to be the main street of the aforementioned Sawdust Hill community.  Several houses and the Shady Grove Missionary Baptist Church used to stand here, but only an old African-American cemetery with headstones dating from 1909 to 1927 remains.
Sawdust Hill cemetery
At 0.25 miles, turn right to walk a short spur trail back across the old moat (which is much deeper and steeper here) to reach the restored Northern Ohio School.  This one-room schoolhouse was built for kids of the lumber mill workers, and it is surprisingly well-preserved given its age.  Some interpretive signs describe what it was like to attend school here.
Northern Ohio School
Back on the main trail, you soon come to the chieftain’s mound, no doubt the site’s main attraction.  Most archaeologists believe this mound used to be pyramidal in shape with a flat top, but centuries of erosion have left the more lumpy round structure you see today.  Imagine being surrounded by hundreds of houses, a moat, and looking up at the chieftain’s house atop this mound.
Chieftain's mound

St. Francis River
Continuing around the loop, just past 0.5 miles you reach an overlook of the St. Francis River.  Although de Soto’s journals state that the river’s water was clear enough to see the bottom, the river stays very muddy today due to runoff from surrounding farm fields.  The river was especially muddy on the seasonally cold 40-degree spring afternoon that I came here.  Two more left curves bring you to the close of the loop, where a right turn will take you back to the Visitor Center and complete the hike.

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