Trails: Lower Yosemite Fall and Cook’s Meadow Trails
Hike Location: Yosemite
National Park
Geographic Location: eastern end of Yosemite
Valley , CA (37.74855, -119.58725)
Length: 2.3 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: June 2016
Overview: A short lollipop loop past America ’s
tallest waterfall and through a scenic meadow.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=731002
Hike Video:
Directions to the trailhead: This hike starts at the Valley
Visitor Center
in the eastern end of Yosemite Valley . Ideally you can park in the large day-use
parking lot across Northside Drive
from the Visitor Center . Realistically, you need to park anywhere you
can find a space in eastern Yosemite Valley and either
walk or ride the free Valley Shuttle to the Visitor
Center . The Valley
Visitor Center
is Valley Shuttle stop #5.
The hike: No less than the famous and well-traveled John
Muir described Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of
Giant Sequoias as “by far the grandest of all the special temples of nature I
was ever permitted to enter.” The area’s
awe-inspiring white granite cliffs that tower thousands of feet above the
valley, collection of waterfalls that includes some of the tallest in North
America , and massive, ancient, giant sequoia trees have caused
millions of visitors since Muir’s time to agree. The two special areas originally identified
by Muir were set aside in 1864 (during the Civil War by President Lincoln no
less) via a federal act known as the Yosemite Grant. The grant gave title of the land to the State
of California for preservation
purposes, making Yosemite the first area in the United
States to receive federal protection from settlement
and development.
In the early 1900’s, the land came under
federal control when a group of conservationists led by Muir persuaded
President Theodore Roosevelt, perhaps the greatest conservationist this country
has ever known, that California was failing its stewardship
responsibilities. Sheepherders were
feeding their sheep in the fragile alpine meadows, and lumber companies were
cutting down ancient giant sequoias, to name a couple of travesties. Thus, in 1903 Yosemite
became America ’s
second national park (after Yellowstone ), much to the
joy of Muir and his allies.
The conservationists’ victory proved
to be short-lived. In 1913 President Woodrow
Wilson approved the damming of Yosemite ’s sister valley
to the north, the Hetch Hetchy
Valley . This decision was made in spite of the fact
that Hetch Hetchy
Valley lies within the park’s
boundaries set in 1903. This act led to
the creation of the National Park Service in 1916 to ensure that such
short-sighted actions would never again happen within a national park’s
boundaries.
The allure of Yosemite
experienced by Muir remains a major attraction today, as Yosemite
National Park has become one of the
5 most visited parks in the entire national park system. Your entrance fee at Yosemite
allows you to access the park for 7 days, which is a good thing: it is
impossible to see the entire park in one day.
Indeed, I did my five Yosemite hikes (this one
and the next four) over a three day period, and I came nowhere near exhausting
the quality day hikes the park has to offer.
This hike offers a good introduction to Yosemite Valley
and takes you to a couple of the valley’s most scenic and accessible sites: Yosemite
Falls and Cook’s Meadow. Be advised that this entire hike is on
asphalt trail, and its location near the Valley Visitor Center means you will
have a lot of company on these very developed trails.
Hike/bike path leaving Valley Visitor Center |
Walk out the front of the Valley
Visitor Center
and angle right on one of many asphalt paths.
Your first destination is Lower Yosemite Fall, so you need to follow
signs for Yosemite Falls . The asphalt hike/bike path crosses a pair of
access roads used by park employees as it heads west toward Yosemite
Valley ’s mouth.
At 0.4 miles, the trail to Lower
Yosemite Fall exits right where the trail to
Yosemite Lodge, one of the park’s main lodging establishments, continues
straight. Turn right to continue your
journey toward Lower Yosemite Fall. This
trail is the eastern arm of a 1 mile loop that leads to the base of Lower
Yosemite Fall. This arm is handicapped
accessible, but the western arm that you will hike later is slightly too steep
for a wheelchair.
ADA-accessible boardwalk to Lower Yosemite Fall |
Hiking around giant boulder |
The Lower Yosemite Fall Trail
passes around a giant house-sized boulder before reaching the site of a former
sawmill, which predates the park. This
sawmill was owned by a man named James Hutchings, who also owned an inn in Yosemite
Valley . The mill’s most
famous worker was John Muir, who rebuilt it in 1869 and operated it for two
years. Muir milled trees blown down by
storms into improvements for Hutchings’ inn.
At 0.85 miles, the trail reaches
its highest elevation as it crosses Yosemite Creek’s boulder-filled main
channel on a wide footbridge just below Lower Yosemite Fall. The Lower Fall faces southwest, so the best
viewing area sits at the far side of the creek.
When I came here on a late afternoon in mid-June, shadows completely
covered the Lower Fall, making for pleasant temperature conditions but
difficult photography conditions. If you
look down the creek from the footbridge, you get a nice view of the cliffs on
the opposite (south) side of Yosemite Valley .
Lower Yosemite Fall |
Continuing on the Lower Yosemite
Fall Trail, the trail descends briefly to head away from the fall area. As you walk away from the fall, keep taking
glances over your shoulder: there is a special point about halfway to the main
park road where you can see Lower and Upper
Yosemite Falls
together. The Upper Fall appears to be
directly above the Lower Fall even though they lie more than 0.5 miles apart.
Yosemite Falls |
When you approach the restroom
building, angle left to begin paralleling the main park road. As you cross Yosemite Creek on the trail’s footbridge,
look to the right and notice the nice stone park road bridge, an example of the
“parkitecture” in our national parks that has gained much acclaim over the past
few years. The creek’s clear waters flow
over the sandy as opposed to bouldery creek bottom here.
Yosemite Creek |
After dodging cars while crossing busy
Northside Drive , the only
vehicle road out of eastern Yosemite Valley , you head
through a grove of black oaks before emerging into sunny, grassy Cook’s Meadow. As you walk around the meadow, you will get
bottom-up views of nearly every major summit in Yosemite . Moran and Glacier Points appear directly
ahead, Half Dome stands to the left (due east), and North Dome peaks its top
over the cliffs to the northeast.
Half Dome, as seen from Cook's Meadow |
Just past 1.4 miles, the asphalt
path splits. We will eventually go left
to continue the loop through Cook’s Meadow, but first choose the option on the
right and walk a short distance to the hike/bike path’s bridge over the Merced
River , the main waterway through Yosemite Valley . The clear, fast-flowing river seemed serene
on my visit, but a flood gauge attached to the bridge marks major historical
floods. At the top of the gauge
(probably over your head) is the January 1997 flood, which caused $178 million of
property damage and stranded over 2000 park visitors. The lesson here is to enjoy the scenery but
respect God’s power as demonstrated in nature.
Merced River |
Back on the main loop, as you
continue through the meadow views of Upper Yosemite Fall emerge at first behind you
and then to your left. A boardwalk takes
you over the meadow’s wettest area, and some interpretive signs tell of this
area’s history. One sign states that
animal herds were allowed to graze in this meadow in the park’s early days, and
a hotel operated on this site. These acts
may sound sacrosanct in one of nature’s grandest cathedrals, but we should not
be self-righteous: the park service built an asphalt walking path through this
meadow much more recently.
Upper Yosemite Fall, as seen from Cook's Meadow |
At 1.8 miles, you reach a small parking
area where you need to turn left to continue the Cook’s Meadow loop. Now heading north, another boardwalk is
crossed as the Three Brothers, a collection of mountains separating eastern and
western Yosemite Valley , come into view above and to the
left. After another careful crossing of Northside
Drive , you close the loop. A right turn and 0.25 miles of walking return
you to the Valley Visitor
Center to complete the hike. While you are in this area, be sure to check
out the Ansel Adams Gallery, which sells works by the famous photographer among
other items.
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