Watkins Glen State Park (Blog Hike #432)

Trails: Gorge and Indian Trails

Hike Location: Watkins Glen State Park

Geographic Location: Watkins Glen, NY (42.37511, -76.87351)

Length: 2.5 miles

Difficulty: 8/10 (Moderate/Difficult)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A lollipop loop with lots of stone steps featuring many waterfalls.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/142/details.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725569
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Watkins Glen State Park is located in downtown Watkins Glen 6 blocks south of the intersection of SR 414 and SR 14.  Park in the large blacktop parking lot at this entrance.

The hike: If you like the rounded look of the ridges in the Finger Lakes region compared to the more angular look of those to the south, you can thank the set of glaciers that covered this region a few thousand years ago.  As the glaciers plowed across New York, they scraped the tops off of the ridges and scoured the valleys, creating the north-south finger lakes we see today.  As water ran off the ridges into the new lakes, deep east-west gorges were carved out of the glacier-transformed terrain.

            The east-west gorge called Watkins Glen was noted for its scenic value early on. In 1863, the gorge was purchased by Morvalden Ells, a journalist from Elmira, and opened to the public as a resort.  The land was purchased by New York State in 1906, and the area has been operated as a state park ever since.  The park features a 302-site campground, a gift shop, a shuttle bus service that takes visitors to/from the park’s two entrances, and several miles of trails.  Three trails explore the gorge itself: the Gorge Trail through the belly of the beast, and the South Rim and Indian Trails on the rim.  This hike combines the Gorge and Indian Trails to tour the gorge both from within and from above.

            Before we start, I have one warning about this park: it is VERY popular.  Indeed, on summer weekends all parking lots regularly fill to capacity, and the first mile of this hike on the Gorge Trail can feel as busy as the New York Thruway.  You can try to minimize the crowds by coming first thing in the morning or during the off-season, but there is no escaping this park’s popularity.

Trail enters first tunnel at trailhead

            Begin at the rear of the parking lot where the entrance path climbs some stone steps to the right of Glen Creek and narrows to enter a tunnel.  Both of the tunnels at Watkins Glen are artificially illuminated, so visibility is never a problem.  On the other side of the tunnel, the waterfall show begins as you pass the first of the glen’s 19 waterfalls.

            After crossing Glen Creek on a bridge, ignore Couch’s Staircase as it exits left and climbs toward the south rim.  At 0.2 miles and after climbing some more stone steps in the gorge, you reach Cavern Cascade.  This waterfall derives its name from the very narrow cave-like gorge at its base.  The trail actually passes behind this waterfall, giving you the odd opportunity to look down the gorge through a wall of water.

Cavern Cascade

            Past Cavern Cascade, the trail climbs a spiral staircase through Spiral Tunnel, the second tunnel on this trail.  After exiting this tunnel, Cliff Path enters from the right.  Cliff Path is the last route down from the Indian Trail, and therefore this intersection marks the beginning of the loop portion of this hike.  Water always takes the easiest route down, so usually the best choice at this type of decision point is to climb on a creekside trail and descend on a rim trail.  Therefore, this route will stay on the Gorge Trail for the climb and use the Indian Trail and Cliff Path as the return route. 

            The glen widens slightly above this junction, and a suspension bridge goes from rim to rim over your head.  More stone steps will require your energy to climb, and Ansel Adams wannabies may slow your steps further as they block the trail to line up the perfect photo.  After passing The Narrows, Lover’s Lane enters from the rim.  You next enter tranquil Glen Cathedral, one of the creek’s widest and calmest sections.  Interpretive signs tell of the wet and dry microclimates that exist within the glen as they compare the habitats of The Narrows (wet) and Glen Cathedral (dry).

Central Cascade

            Just shy of 0.5 miles, the creek’s mellow section abruptly ends at Central Cascade, another ledge waterfall where water tumbles over a more resistant layer of shale.  After climbing still more stone steps above the waterfall, the trail crosses the  second bridge over the creek and passes a section of creekbed that features a large number of potholes, evidence of old waterfalls that have now eroded away.  At 0.6 miles, you walk behind Rainbow Falls, noteworthy because afternoon sunlight reflects in the waterfall to form rainbows.

            Past Rainbow Falls, the trail crosses the final bridge over Glen Creek and, 0.9 miles into the hike, passes through Spiral Gorge.  Spiral Gorge is another very narrow section of the glen with numerous potholes and scenic waterfalls.  Just shy of 1 mile, ignore a cross-trail and keep straight to continue upstream along the creek.

Potholes in Spiral Gorge

            Past the 1 mile mark, the crowds thin because the tightest part of the gorge and all of the major waterfalls are behind you.  At 1.2 miles, you reach the base of Jacob’s Ladder, a steep 180-step stone staircase.  This staircase is your route to the rim, so take your time climbing the steps.  All of the park’s stone steps were built by the CCC in the 1930’s, and their efforts make our tour of the gorge much easier.  As you ascend, notice the active railroad trestle that stretches across the gorge straight ahead and above you.

Jacob's Ladder

            1.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail intersection on the glen’s north rim where our return route, the Indian Trail, exits to the right.  Turn right to begin the Indian Trail.  Having just gained over 500 feet in elevation, most of it on steep stone steps, the gradual downhill on the smooth dirt Indian Trail is welcome.  Wire mesh fencing prevents you from falling in the gorge on the right.

Starting down the Indian Trail

            Several side trails exit right into the gorge, and some overlooks give you the topside view of Watkins Glen.  Truth be told, you can see much less from the rim than you can from inside the gorge.  Near 2 miles into the hike, you pass St. Mary’s Cemetery and an old pink maintenance building on private land to the left.  Please respect private property rights and stay on the trail.

            At 2.4 miles and at the bottom of a steep descent, you reach the north end of the suspension bridge across the glen.  This hike does not cross the bridge, but walking out onto the bridge gives a nice view directly up and down the glen.  Staying on the north rim, another 0.1 miles of downhill hiking brings you to Point Lookout.  Point Lookout sits at the end of the rim and offers a fantastic view east to the glen’s mouth, Seneca Lake, and beyond.

View from Point Lookout

            At Point Lookout, the trail curves 180 degrees to the right and makes a final descent to intersect the Gorge Trail, thus closing the loop.  The crowds greet you as you reenter the glen, but turning left and walking 0.25 miles mostly down stone steps will return you to the lower parking area and complete the hike.