Illini State Park (Blog Hike #1086)

Trail: (unnamed)
Hike Location: Illini State Park
Geographic Location: across the Illinois River from Marseilles, IL (41.32094, -88.71166)
Length: 1.4 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: October 2025
Overview: A loop hike partially along the Illinois River.
Park Information: https://dnr.illinois.gov/parks/park.illini.html
Hike Route Map:

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming November 3, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: From Marseilles, take Main Street south across the Illinois River to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, then turn left at the next 2 intersections to pass back under the river bridge you just crossed.  Park in the small gravel lot on the right near the gated entrance to the Pine Glen Campground.

The hike: Named for the Illinois Confederation, a.k.a. Illini or Illiniwek people, who lived here as late as the early 1800s, Illini State Park oozes history in every direction.  The park's north boundary is the Illinois River, and the Great Falls of the Illinois River proved a major barrier to barge navigation.  Thus, in the 1920s the Army Corps of Engineers built Marseilles Lock and Dam, which is formally known as Lock and Dam #5; it can still be seen in the north side of the park.  The Marseilles Moraine and its rich coal reserves lies in the southern part of the park.  The eastern part of the park was once the Marsatawa Country Club, which boasted one of the country's best golf courses in the early 1900s.

            The park's land has been in public hands since the early 1930s, and 2 Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) companies worked to convert the country club's golf course into the park we see today.  The CCC built many of the park's buildings, and their camp served as a semi-correctional boys camp until the 1960s.  Construction was finished in 1934, and the park officially opened in 1935.

            Today Illini State Park offers a 58-site developed campground, fishing and boating on the Illinois River, and some picnic shelters.  For hikers, the park offers only 1 trail: the short unnamed trail described here.  Yet this trail is a good one that explores the river, the old CCC camp, and the upland woods.  I had a nice hike when I came here on a warm afternoon in early October.

Starting the loop

            This trail forms a loop, and I hiked the loop counterclockwise by walking north from the parking lot before turning left to enter the woods.  Trails at this park are unmarked, but they are wide and easy to follow.  The riverside forest is dominated by black walnut and basswood trees, and I saw a lot of squirrels scurrying through the forest.

Marseilles Canal overlook

            At 0.15 miles, you reach the first of three Marseilles Canal overlooks.  This canal was built to channel Illinois River boat traffic into Marseilles Lock, which lies just downstream.  The landmass you see across the canal is actually an island; the main channel of the Illinois River lies beyond the island.  If you look carefully at the side of that island, you can see the rock cut that was made to build this canal.

Hiking along the canal

            The trail continues west with the canal through the trees to the right.  Several downed trees had been recently removed from the trail, and the trail maintenance here was excellent.  At 0.7 miles, the trail curves left to head away from the river and start following Person Creek.  A gradual climb comes next, but the difference between maximum and minimum elevation on this hike is only about 30 feet.  Thus, all grades on these trails are gradual.

Abandoned restroom building

            A sweeping left curve brings you to an abandoned restroom building, parking lot, and playground at 0.85 miles.  I suspect this area is connected to the boys camp from the 1960s mentioned in the introduction, but I could not confirm my suspicion.  Next the trail heads east atop a low but steep ridge that drops about 10 feet on either side.  I could not find any information about this ridge, so maybe it is part of the moraine that lies south of the park or an old river bank.

Stone picnic shelter

            1.3 miles into the hike, you reach a nice stone picnic shelter that is part of the Pine Glen Youth Group Campground.  The final leg of the loop uses an old dirt road with the group camp through the trees on the right.  500 feet later, you reach the vehicle gate that blocks the old dirt road and intersect the paved group campground access road.  Angle left and do a short road walk to return to the parking lot and complete the hike.

Buffalo Rock State Park and Effigy Tumuli (Blog Hike #1085)

Trails: Effigy and River Bluff Trails
Hike Location: Buffalo Rock State Park
Geographic Location: west of Ottawa, IL (41.32747, -88.91200)
Length: 2.3 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: October 2025
Overview: A semi loop beside effigy tumuli with blufftop views of the Illinois River.
Park Information: https://dnr.illinois.gov/parks/park.buffalorock.html
Hike Route Map:

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming June 12, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Ottawa, take Main Street west 0.6 miles to Clay Street and turn left on Clay St.  Drive Clay St. south 0.2 miles to Ottawa Avenue and turn right on Ottawa Ave.  Ottawa Ave. becomes Dee Bennett Road after you leave Ottawa.  Drive 3.5 miles from Clay St. to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, drive the narrow park road uphill to the top of Buffalo Rock, and park in the parking lot beside the picnic shelters and restroom building at the park road's end.

The hike: Formed as an ancient island in the Illinois River, Buffalo Rock was first discovered by European explorers in 1673 during Louis Jolliet's and Father Jacques Marquette's journey up the Illinois River.  The French explorers discovered the Illinois Confederation, a.k.a. the Illiniwek or Illini, living here, but within a few years the Illini were on the brink of defeat to the Iroquois.  In the early 1680's, the French built a military, trading, and missionary post atop the rock that became a headquarters for opponents of the Iroquois.  In 1912, the Crane Company of Chicago purchased the rock for use as a sanitarium and summer vacation home for its employees, and the company deeded the land to the State of Illinois in 1928.

            Located across the Illinois River from famous Starved Rock State Park, Buffalo Rock State Park and Effigy Tumuli protects 298 acres on and around its historic and namesake rock.  The rock's name comes from a legend that ancient peoples used the box canyon formed by the rock to trap and capture buffalos.  The park has no developed campground, but it offers some picnic shelters, a bison pen, 2 hiking trails, some blufftop river views, and the interesting effigy tumuli, which I will describe below.  This hike uses both of the park's trails to tour all major points of interest in the park.

Trail beside restroom building

            There are several places where you could start this hike, but I started at the restroom building at the northwest corner of the main parking lot.  A concrete path heads into the woods, and quickly it curves left to arrive at the dedication area for the effigy tumuli.  Technically a type of earth art, the effigy tumuli are a series of animal-shaped dirt mounds built in 1983 by Michael Heizer.  The tumuli are designed to be a tribute to the Mound Builder peoples who lived in eastern North America from 3500 BC until the 1700's.  The animal shapes of the tumuli are almost impossible to discern from the ground, and you will need to look at the park brochure while you are hiking if you want to know the shape of the mound you are standing beside.

Hiking through the prairie atop Buffalo Rock

            Continue south past the dedication area, and at 0.2 miles you reach the trail intersection that forms the loop portion of this hike.  Turn right to begin a counterclockwise journey around the loop.  The wide dirt/grass trail heads southwest through a prairie area, and this was a warm and sunny hike on the seasonally warm early October afternoon when I hiked here.  The park brochure tells you that you pass the frog and water strider tumuli on the left as well as the catfish tumulus on the right, but they look like formless mounds of dirt to the naked eye.

Catfish tumulus

            At 0.8 miles, you reach the west corner of the loop.  We will eventually turn left to continue the loop, but first angle softly right to add-on an out-and-back that takes you past the rest of the tumuli.  The trail descends slightly as it heads out the western part of Buffalo Rock, and this part of the rock has equal amounts of broadleaf trees and prairie.  The park brochure says that you pass the turtle tumulus on the left, but again it is hard to discern.

Western part of Buffalo Rock

            1.2 miles into the hike, you trace around a very tiny loop, almost a cul de sac, at the west end of the trail.  The mounds you see in this area form the snake tumulus, and they look more like a snake than any of the other tumuli do their animals.  Retrace your steps back east to return to the loop, then angle softly right to continue a counterclockwise journey around the loop.

Developed Illinois River overlook

            Just shy of 1.6 miles, you reach the developed Illinois River overlook.  This overlook is getting a little overgrown, but it still provides a mostly clear view of the river and Starved Rock State Park on the other side.  I am always amazed at how wide the Illinois River is; that width is partly due to the river's prairie setting and partly due to the river's extensive system of locks and dams.  Past the developed overlook, the trail continues east along the top of the river bluffs, which drop to the right.  Some unofficial river overlooks are passed, and I liked the view from some of the unofficial overlooks more than the view from the official overlook.

Unofficial Illinois River overlook

Bison pen

            2 miles into the hike, you reach another trail intersection.  The trail going straight leads down and up through a steep ravine to reach a secondary parking area, so you want to turn left to hike a more level trail back to our parking area.  Just before you finish the hike, you pass the park's bison pen on the right.  I saw several bison in the pen, and these bison form a fitting way to finish your hike at Buffalo Rock State Park.

Fernbank Park in Cincinnati, OH (Blog Hike #1084)

Trails: Sycamore and Shared-Use Trails
Hike Location: Fernbank Park
Geographic Location: west side of Cincinnati, OH (39.11855, -84.70019)
Length: 2.25 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: October 2025
Overview: A double loop near the Ohio River.
Park Information: https://www.greatparks.org/parks/fernbank-park
Hike Route Map:

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming November 17, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Fernbank Park is located on the south side of US 50 5.8 miles west of Anderson Ferry Road or 4.8 miles east of SR 128.  Go south across the railroad tracks, then turn left to enter the park.  Drive the park road to the large trailhead parking lot at its end where this hike begins.

The hike: Tiny 66-acre Fernbank Park protects more than a mile of scenic riverfront along the Ohio River west of Cincinnati, and the park's history and the river's history are intricately intertwined.  The park was originally built in 3 areas: Lee Park, Dam Site #37, and River Park.  In 1974, the 3 areas were merged to form the park we visit today.

            The Dam Site #37 area is of particular historical interest.  Built in 1911 by the Army Corps of Engineers, the Fernbank Wicket Dam, formally known as Dam #37, was the world's largest movable wicket dam and the only one built entirely of concrete and steel.  Considered an engineering success at the time, the dam was built to ensure that the Ohio River remained navigable to boats year-round.  The dam site originally hosted its own self-sustaining community, but the dam was demolished in 1963.

            2 structures from Fernbank Park's rich history still stand side-by-side in the middle of the park: the Caretaker's Residence and Warehouse built in 1910 and the Pavilion and Concession Stand built in 1940.  The park is jointly managed by the Great Parks of Hamilton County and the Cincinnati Park Board, and it features a playground, some picnic shelters, and 2 trails: the natural-surface Sycamore Trail and the paved Shared-Use Trail.  This hike combines both trails to form a grand tour of Fernbank Park.

Sycamore Trail trailhead

            There are several places where you could start this hike, but I chose to start at the Sycamore Trail parking lot and hike the natural-surface trail first.  A single sign telling you a little about the Sycamore Trail marks the trailhead.  The Sycamore Trail forms a loop, and if you start at the trailhead sign you will go outbound on the southern arm and return on the northern arm.  All of Fernbank Park consists of flat riverside land; there is no significant elevation change anywhere on this hike.  Unfortunately, although you know the Ohio River is through the dense forest to the right, no clear views of the river emerge on the Sycamore Trail.

Hiking the Sycamore Trail

            Just shy of 0.2 miles, the 2 arms of the loop briefly unite; stay right to continue heading around the skinny loop counterclockwise.  The dense shrubby forest contains some sycamore trees, but the majority of trees are black walnut and oak.  I had one of the black walnut trees attack me when I hiked here on a seasonally warm afternoon on the first day of October: they were dropping their walnuts, and a walnut crashed on my shoulder, splattering me with black paste.  I thought about counterattacking by throwing the nut back at the tree, but I refrained.

Southeast end of the loop

            At 0.6 miles, you reach the southeast end of the loop at a sharp left curve.  A bench, trash can, and recycling bin are located here.  The return portion of the loop stays close to the park boundary on the right.  Fernbank Park occupies a narrow strip of land wedged between a railroad and the Ohio River, and noisy US 50 sits just beyond the railroad.  Thus, you never get the feel you are far from the city on this hike.

End of the Sycamore Trail

            1.1 miles into the hike, the north arm of the Sycamore Trail arrives back at the parking lot.  You could end your hike now, but to also see the developed area of the park, turn right to begin following an asphalt trail.  Known as the Shared-Use Trail, this asphalt trail is open to both hikers and road bikes, and it also forms a loop.  This description goes around the loop counterclockwise.

Shared-Use Trail

Nice stone picnic shelter

            The outbound/north arm of the loop continues the northwest course begun by the last part of the Sycamore Trail with the railroad close on the right.  This will be a hot and sunny section of trail in the summer with little of interest to see, and therefore it does not make for the most inspiring hiking.  At 1.7 miles, as the park entrance comes into view up ahead, the trail curves left to cross the park road and pass through the picnic area.  An interpretive sign tells you that the buildings in this area were designed by the famous Cincinnati architect Carl Freund and were built by the depression-era Civil Works Administration and Works Progress Administration.  These picnic shelters occupy shady spots and make inviting places to sit and rest before beginning the last part of the hike.

Trail along Ohio River bluff

Ohio River view

Pavilion and concession stand

            After passing around the park's playground, the trail surface turns to concrete and the Ohio River finally comes into view on the right.  Some sunny benches make nice places to sit and observe the river.  You also pass the historic caretaker's residence and concession stand mentioned in the introduction as well as the park's Ohio River fishing access.  Despite the concrete trail and the development, this is Fernbank Park's most scenic area.  After passing the fishing access, you return to the nature trail parking lot for a second time and complete the hike.

Fort Fisher State Recreation Area: Basin Trail (Blog Hike #1083)

Trail: Basin Trail
Hike Location: Fort Fisher State Recreation Area
Geographic Location: south of Wilmington, NC (33.96497, -77.92269)
Length: 2.2 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: September 2025
Overview: An out-and-back through marsh and dune habitats to a platform overlooking The Basin.
Park Information: https://www.ncparks.gov/state-parks/fort-fisher-state-recreation-area
Hike Route Map: 

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming September 11, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Wilmington, take US 421 south 20 miles to the signed entrance for Fort Fisher State Recreation Area on the left.  Turn left to enter the area, and park in the large blacktop parking lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: Occupying a sandy peninsula that juts into the Atlantic Ocean south of Wilmington, 287-acre Fort Fisher State Recreation Area gets its name from Civil War-era Fort Fisher, a Confederate earthen fort built in 1861.  The fort guarded one of two entrances to the Cape Fear River, and its extreme strength earned it the nickname "The Southern Gibraltar."  The Union did not take the fort until their second attempt, which occurred on January 12, 1865 less than 3 months before the end of the war.  The fort's main magazine exploded 4 days later, killing over 200 men.

            The fort's surviving earthworks are protected by Fort Fisher State Historic Site, which is located adjacent to the Recreation Area.  During World War II, an air landing strip was built here, and a concrete bunker was built to house command batteries for German U-boat patrols.  Fort Fisher State Recreation Area was established in 1986, and today it offers one of Wilmington's best and most popular beaches.

            For hikers, the recreation area offers only 1 trail: the 1.1 mile one-way Basin Trail that takes you out the peninsula to a wide spot in the Cape Fear River known as The Basin.  The Basin Trail passes the World War II-era bunker, and it offers great views across the area's salt marshes.  Be warned that over half of this trail is exposed to the sun, so this is not a good hike for a hot summer afternoon.  I came here on a seasonal morning in mid-September and had a pleasant hike.

Trailhead for the Basin Trail

            The Basin Trail starts at the southwest corner of the parking lot, crosses the gated road that heads to the beach, and enters the woods.  Only a small sign marks the trailhead.  The white sandy dirt trail heads into the dense coastal scrub forest that features lots of cedar trees.  Some boardwalks take you over some wet areas, and the hiking is uneventful but pleasant.

Coastal scrub forest

            At 0.2 miles, a spur trail leading to the North Carolina Aquarium exits right.  The Basin Trail turns left and soon exits the cedar scrub in favor of an open, sunny, and sandy savannah-like area.  The sand is somewhat soft, making for slower going than you might expect.  The trick to walking in sand is not to take faster steps or longer steps but to make each step count: step where the sand is already compacted from where other people have stepped recently.  The terrain is flat enough that most people can get across this sand by making their steps count.

Soft sandy trail

            0.4 miles into the hike, the trail curves right to leave the softest sand and enter a sunny salt marsh.  Long boardwalks get you over the water, and looking around lets you see how large this salt marsh is.  This marsh would be a good place for waterfowl viewing in the morning or evening, but I came here in the middle of the day.

Boardwalk over salt marsh

Salt marsh

            At 0.75 miles, you reach the concrete World War II-era bunker.  Interpretive signs describe the command batteries and U-boat patrols that were stationed here during World War II.  After the war, this bunker became home to the famous Fort Fisher Hermit, Robert Harrill.  Harrill survived on what he could gather from the marsh, and he was well-known for sharing his wisdom from "The School of Common Sense" with visitors who came by.  Harrill died in 1972.

Concrete World War II-era bunker

            The rest of the trail passes through a thin cedar forest on a sandy dirt surface.  The area is wet enough that hundreds of fiddler crabs call it home, and each step I took sent countless of the tiny crabs scurrying for holes in the ground.  1.1 miles into the hike, you reach the wooden observation platform at the edge of The Basin.  

The Basin

            The Basin is a broad inlet near the mouth of the Cape Fear River, and water-filled views extend in multiple directions.  I saw some egrets, an osprey, and a heron while I was here.  Although benches encourage you to sit and rest, the lack of shade may shorten your rest period.  Only 1 trail leads here, so your only option is to retrace your steps 1.1 miles along the Basin Trail to return to the Visitor Center and complete the hike.

Hammocks Beach State Park (Blog Hike #1082)

Trails: Live Oak, Evergreen, Coastal Fringe, and Hickory Bluff Trails
Hike Location: Hammocks Beach State Park
Geographic Location: southwest of Swansboro, NC (34.67230, -77.14411)
Length: 1.9 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: September 2025
Overview: A fairly flat lollipop loop through mixed coastal forest.
Park Information: https://www.ncparks.gov/state-parks/hammocks-beach-state-park
Hike Route Map: 

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming December 1, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: Between Swansboro and Jacksonville, take SR 24 to Hammocks Beach Road and go south on Hammocks Beach Rd.  Reach the signed park entrance in another 2.1 miles.  Turn right to enter the park, and park in the large parking lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: Located southeast of Jacksonville in an area known as the Crystal Coast, Hammocks Beach State Park protects 1611 acres near the Atlantic Ocean.  The park is best known for its 3 uninhabited barrier islands, the largest of which is 4-mile long Bear Island, which has been designated a National Natural Landmark.  A passenger ferry to Bear Island operates several days per week during the summer, but the other islands are only accessible by private boat or kayak.

            I came to Hammocks Beach State Park on a day when the passenger ferry was not operating, so I had to confine my visit to the park's mainland, which is somewhat less impressive.  The park's mainland features only a Visitor Center with some exhibits and 4 hiking trails totaling 2.3 miles.  This hike makes the most of those trails while minimizing the retracing of steps necessary, and it forms a pleasant and easy semi-loop through the dense lowland forest.

Trailhead at Visitor Center parking lot

            The main trailhead is located at the northwest corner of the parking lot near where the park entrance road enters; an information kiosk with a trail map marks the trailhead.  The trail system at this park consists of 3 loops laid out like links in a chain: you have to hike the first loop to get to the second loop to get to the third loop.  Angle right to begin the first trail, the Live Oak Trail, then turn left to begin heading around the Live Oak Trail's loop clockwise.  The Live Oak Trail is marked with white trail markers, and it is also this park's Storybook Trail: signs bearing pages from a kid's storybook are passed in sequence while you hike.

Hiking the Live Oak Trail

            The Live Oak Trail embarks on a flat course through dense forest consisting of live oak trees and pine trees.  Just past 0.2 miles, you reach a trail intersection.  We will continue straight to finish the Live Oak Trail later, but for now turn left on the blue-blazed Evergreen Trail, which leads to the second loop.

Hiking the Evergreen Trail

            Quickly you reach the start of the red-blazed Coastal Fringe Trail, which is the second loop.  Turn left to begin going clockwise around the Coastal Fringe Trail.  I saw a pileated woodpecker searching for dinner in a tree when I hiked here on a warm mid-September afternoon.  At 0.5 miles, you reach a trail intersection with the white-blazed Hickory Bluff Trail, which is the third loop; a nice bench sits here.  Turn left to begin heading clockwise around the Hickory Bluff Trail.

Start of the Hickory Bluff Trail

            The Hickory Bluff Trail makes a loop around a peninsula that juts west into Queen Creek, but it is a somewhat frustrating trail: wide saltwater Queen Creek can be seen through the trees to the left most of the time, but no clear views of the creek emerge.  Moreover, the trail winds incessantly, and at times it feels like you are hiking in circles.  Faithfully following the white trail markers will bring you back to the Coastal Fringe Trail at 1 mile.  Turn left to continue the Coastal Fringe Trail.

Hiking the Coastal Fringe Trail

            The Coastal Fringe Trail passes through more of the same scenery, and at 1.3 miles it ends at the Evergreen Trail.  Turn right to hike east on the Evergreen Trail.  At 1.5 miles, you get back to the Live Oak Trail on which you started.  Turn left to continue the Live Oak Trail's loop.

Storybook sign on Live Oak Trail

            The Live Oak Trail follows an old dirt road for a short distance before curving right to leave the road.  At 1.75 miles, you close the Live Oak Trail's loop.  Angle left to return to the trailhead.  For a small add-on, follow the trail going right from the trailhead to quickly reach the park's ferry dock and waterfront.  Some picnic tables overlooking the water make up for the creek views you did not get on the Hickory Bluff Trail.  Walk beside the Visitor Center to return to the parking lot and complete the hike.

Fort Macon State Park: Elliott Coues Nature Trail (Blog Hike #1081)

Trails: Elliott Coues Nature and Yarrow Trails
Hike Location: Fort Macon State Park
Geographic Location: south of Morehead City, NC (34.69638, -76.67888)
Length: 3.7 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2025
Overview: A semi-loop hike featuring an 1800's fort and dunes along the Atlantic Ocean.
Park Information: https://www.ncparks.gov/state-parks/fort-macon-state-park
Hike Route Map: 

On The Go Map

Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: (coming December 11, 2026)

Directions to the trailhead: From Morehead City, take the Atlantic Beach Bridge south across the causeway to SR 58.  Turn left on SR 58.  SR 58 dead-ends at the main parking lot for Fort Macon in 3.6 miles.  Park here.

The hike: Built in 1826 as part of the Third System of United States coastal fortifications, Fort Macon occupies the eastern tip of a barrier island that comprises the southeast corner of North Carolina.  The brick and stone fort was built in the shape of a pentagon, and it saw live action only once: the 1862 Battle of Fort Macon.  At that battle, Major General Ambrose Burnside's Union army besieged and bombarded Confederates manning the fort.  Outnumbered nearly 10 to 1, the Confederates were forced to surrender.

            The fort became obsolete after the Civil War due to advances in ballistics, and in 1923 the fort was offered for sale as surplus military property.  The State of North Carolina purchased the property in 1924 as the second property acquired to form a state park system; Mount Mitchell, the highest point east of the Mississippi River, was the first.  The purchase price was $1, but the purchase came with a stipulation: the federal government had the right to reclaim the property if national security demanded it.  Sure enough, less than 2 decades later the federal government exercised that right, and stations were built near the fort to patrol for German U-boats during World War II.  You will pass the ruins of one of those stations on this hike.  After the war, the purchased land reverted to park use, but an active United States Coast Guard station is still located near the historic fort.

            Today Fort Macon State Park is the second most visited state park in North Carolina, and nearly 1.3 million people come to this day-use only park each year to see the fort and enjoy the beach.  A fantastic Visitor Center contains a museum and an interpretive film about the fort as well as a gift shop and restrooms.  For hikers, the park offers only 1 trail, but it is a loop trail of more than 3 miles that thoroughly tours the park's human history and natural scenery.  That trail is the Elliott Coues Nature Trail described here.

Entering Fort Macon

            Before hitting the trail, take a few minutes or longer to tour the fort, which is accessible by walking through the Visitor Center.  A wide wooden bridge takes you over the old moat and into the brick/stone fort.  Passageways are narrow and stairways are steep by present-day standards, but this fort was designed for strength and military use, not safety and tourism use.  My favorite vantage point is from the top of the wall at the fort's south corner: looking north you can see into the fort, the cannons on the fort wall, and the American flag.  Interpretive signs describe the various rooms in the fort.  Take some time to explore the fort, but take care near the unprotected dropoffs and respect the fort's history.

Wall-top view of Fort Macon

            After touring the fort, begin the actual hike by finding the signed start of the Elliott Coues Nature Trail, which is located at the north corner of the large parking lot, to the left as you walk out the front door of the Visitor Center.  This trail is named for Dr. Elliott Coues (pronounced like house), an Army surgeon who was stationed here in 1869 and 1870.  Although Dr. Coues is better known for his later ornithology work in Arizona, he wrote an extensive biological survey of the area's salt marshes entitled "Notes on the Natural History of Fort Macon," which was published in 1871.  The trail is marked with yellow plastic circles, but it is wide and easy to follow.

Trailhead: Elliott Coues Nature Trail

            The gravel trail heads west into dense brushy woods.  Distance markers are passed every 0.1 miles, but they will not match the distances given here because my distances include the fort tour.  At 0.4 miles into the hike (including the fort tour), you reach a trail intersection.  The Elliott Coues Nature Trail turns left, and we will go that way eventually.  First turn right to hike the short Yarrow Trail.

Beach on Intracoastal Waterway

            Quickly you reach the white sand beach that borders Fort Macon Creek and the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.  Most of this hike stays along the Atlantic Ocean side of this barrier island, and this is your only real view from the inland side.  After taking in this view, retrace your steps to the Elliott Coues Nature Trail, and continue straight to begin heading south with the active coast guard station on your right.  Some swamp rose mallow was in full bloom when I hiked here on a wet mid-September morning.

Swamp rose mallow

            At 0.8 miles, the trail curves right and crosses the entrance road for the coast guard station.  After re-entering the woods, the next segment of trail passes through the area's best salt marshes.  Some wooden bridges get you over the wetland, and some side trails exit right to wetland wildlife viewing areas.  A light rain starting soaking me when I got to this area, but still I saw a flock of herons, an egret, and some cardinals in the salt marsh.

Salt marsh

            2 miles into the hike, the trail curves left to cross busy SR 58.  Ignore the Atlantic Beach Connector Path as it exits right, and at 2.2 miles you pass beside the park's beach parking lot.  While you can also access the beach from the fort parking lot where this hike started, the picnic shelters near this parking lot make nice places to sit, rest, and rehydrate near the midpoint of this hike.  In my case, they also made nice shelters from the rain.

Hiking the loop's south arm

            The return/south arm of the loop takes you on a rolling course over sand dunes and into sand swales that alternates between open sandy areas and dense groves of cedar trees.  The gravel trail surface provides mostly good footing, but the traffic noise from nearby SR 58 on the left becomes annoying.  At 2.7 miles, the ocean first comes into view ahead and to the right as you top a dune, and soon the flag at Fort Macon comes into view across the dunes to the left.

Battery Commander Fire Control Station ruins

Ocean view from the ruins

            At 3.2 miles, you reach a short spur trail that exits right.  Following this trail steeply uphill leads to the ruins of one of the concrete World War II-era Battery Commander Fire Control Stations that was used to patrol for German U-boats off the coast.  Interpretive signs describe the history of the station, and the dune-top location provides the best Atlantic Ocean view on this hike.

Looking up at Fort Macon

            Back on the main loop, the balance of the hike passes through the strip of grassy sand dunes between the ocean on the right and the park road on the left.  As Fort Macon gets closer, the fort's construction becomes obvious based on how much you have to elevate your sight lines to see the fort and its cannons.  Just past 3.6 miles, the trail deposits you at the south end of the main fort parking lot, and only a walk across the large lot remains to finish this hike.