Trail: Pink Beds Loop Trail
Hike Location: Pisgah
National Forest , Pink Beds Picnic
Area
Geographic Location: north of Brevard ,
NC (35.35342, -82.77872)
Length: 5.2 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2017
Overview: A fairly flat lollipop loop, half along the South Fork
of the Mills River
and half through rolling foothills.
Area Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nfsnc/recarea/?recid=48238
Directions to the trailhead: From Brevard, take US
276 north 14.8 miles to the signed Pink Beds Picnic Area on the right. Park in the large and only parking lot.
The hike: Located only 4 miles off of the Blue
Ridge Parkway southwest of Asheville ,
the Cradle of Forestry in America
celebrates the site of the first forestry school in the United
States .
Originally part of the vast Biltmore Estate, the school operated from
1898 until 1909. In 1916, Pisgah
National Forest was established,
and the school site and 87,000 acres of the Vanderbilt’s estate formed the
nucleus of the new national forest. The
site was declared a heritage site by Congress in 1968, and today reconstructed
buildings allow you to tour the school as it once was.
While only
a short system of paved trails runs through the heritage site, a more natural
hiking experience can be had at the adjacent Pink Beds Picnic Area. The origin of the pink beds’ name is not
clear, but some people think it refers to the large amount of pink rhododendron
that used to grow in this valley. The 5
mile Pink Beds Loop Trail that starts at the picnic area is somewhat popular
because it offers one of the area’s few fairly flat hikes of significant
distance. Nevertheless, do not be
dissuaded if the picnic area parking lot is rather full as it was on my visit:
most visitors never leave the picnic area, and I passed only a few other hikers
on the trail.
Trailhead: Pink Beds Picnic Area |
Start at the
northeast corner of the parking area where a gated two-track dirt road heads
into the woods. A wooden sign with a
rough drawing of the trail’s route stands here.
After crossing a stream on a wooden footbridge, the trail splits to form
its loop. The two halves of the loop
have very different flavors. The east
arm of the loop stays near the South Fork of the Mills
River and has a riverside/wetland
feel, while the west arm of the loop is more rolling with a foothills
feel. To get to the river more quickly,
I chose to turn right and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking
the loop counterclockwise.
The trail
descends very gradually to reach the first of several boardwalks. Built in 2013, these wide, expensive-looking boardwalks
carry you over some wetlands along the river.
At some points the old boardwalk still sits beside the new, so you can
clearly see the improvement. Although a
few wet areas still need to be negotiated, this part of the hike used to be
much muddier and wetter than it is now.
New (left) and old (right) boardwalks |
The trail
along the river alternates between sunny, grassy wetland and shady woodlands with
a dense understory of rhododendron and ferns.
Orange rectangular paint blazes mark the way, but the path is wide and
easy to follow for the most part. The
trail goes back and forth across the river, which at this elevation is more of
a creek than a river.
Odd bridge across river |
Just past 1
mile, you cross the river on a very unusual bridge. A huge log has fallen across the river here,
and a man-made bridge carries you halfway across the river to the log, which in
turn takes you the rest of the way. I
was a little concerned about footing on the log, but I had no problems
crossing. 0.1 miles later, where the
trail appears to dead-end at the river bank, you need to turn right and cross a
narrow footbridge. Watch for the orange
blazes to stay on the trail.
Riverside hiking |
At 1.5
miles, the Pink Beds Loop Trail crosses and briefly joins the blue-blazed
Barnett Branch Trail. The Barnett Branch
Trail cuts through the middle of our loop, so turning left and walking across
the boardwalk would lead to the western half of our loop. Such a route would provide a shorter loop of
only 3.3 miles. Heading east on the
Barnett Branch Trail would climb 700 vertical feet to intersect the Black
Mountain Trail. Follow the orange blazes
to remain on the Pink Beds Loop Trail.
Next you
climb gradually on a section of trail that was rerouted in the early 2010’s to
avoid a riverside area flooded by beaver dams.
While no real overlooks are obtained, the trail gets just high enough
that partially obstructed views of the Blue Ridge
Parkway ’s ridge crest to the west can be had
through the trees. Just past 2 miles,
the trail drops steeply to return to the river and cross it for the final
time. A couple of established campsites
are located in this area.
South Fork of the Mills River |
Near 2.5
miles, you reach a trail intersection. A
spur trail to a river gauging station and an alternate trailhead continues
straight along the river, but our loop turns left to leave the riverside area
for good. Carsonite posts and orange
blazes mark your options at this intersection.
In another
0.4 miles, the trail curves sharply left at a turn marked by double orange
blazes. This point is where the hike
changes character, as a gradual climb into the surrounding foothills now begins. The difference between maximum and minimum
elevations is only a little more than 100 feet, so the grade remains mostly
gradual. Lots of pine and oak trees live
in this valley edge, and some short stretches on bare rock will need to be
negotiated.
Hiking through rolling foothills |
After
reaching the highest point on the hike, the trail drops to cross a pair of small
streams. The second of these stream
crossings looks like a wet ford, but if you look to the right you will see a
narrow but functional wooden footbridge.
At 3.6 miles, the Barnett Branch Trail crosses our trail. Continue straight to remain on the Pink Beds
Loop.
More up and
down takes you beside a sequence of wildlife openings, or meadow areas that are
mowed occasionally to prevent the surrounding woodlands from encroaching. While I saw no wildlife of note here on my
mid-afternoon hike, these wildlife openings would be prime deer-viewing areas
in the morning and evening. An old
Bureau of Roads marker also sits beside the trail here.
Wildlife opening |
Immediately after passing the last
wildlife opening, you close the loop.
Angle right to return to the picnic area parking lot and complete the
hike. Be sure to stop by the adjacent
Cradle of Forestry in America
to see the recreated forestry school before you conclude your visit to the Pink
Beds.