Hike Location: Mount Mitchell State Park
Geographic Location: northeast of Asheville, NC (35.76643, -82.26487)
Length: 2.9 miles
Difficulty: 9/10 (Difficult)
Date Hiked: July 2018
Overview: A challenging hike to the two highest peaks in the
Appalachian Mountains.
Park Information: https://www.ncparks.gov/state-parks/mount-mitchell-state-park
Directions to the trailhead: Mount Mitchell State
Park is accessible by road only from the Blue Ridge Parkway. Take the Blue Ridge Parkway to SR 128
(milepost #355), and drive SR 128 uphill 4 miles to its end at the summit
parking area. The summit parking area is
huge, and it was less than ¼ full when I came here on a Tuesday afternoon in
mid-July.
The hike:
Established in 1916, Mount Mitchell State Park is the oldest state park in
North Carolina. The park was established
to protect the higher elevations of its namesake mountain, which at 6684 feet
is not only the highest point in North Carolina but also the highest point in
the Appalachian Mountains and therefore the highest point east of the
Mississippi River. The area’s high
elevation keeps it cool year-round, and snow has been recorded on Mount
Mitchell every month of the year. In
fact, Mount Mitchell receives an average of 91 inches of snow per year, which
is only 3 inches less than Buffalo, NY.
As recently as the 1850’s the
mountain’s status as state high point was in doubt, as Senator Thomas Clingman
erroneously claimed based on mathematical calculations that the region’s
highest peak had elevation 6941 feet. Clingman’s Dome some 100 miles to the west is named after him, but it is only 6643
feet high. Mount Mitchell is named after
Dr. Elisha Mitchell, a science professor at the University of North Carolina. Dr. Mitchell fell to his death on this
mountain in 1857 while trying to prove his correct claim that this mountain is
the highest point in North Carolina.
The summit experience at Mount
Mitchell resembles the ones at Clingman’s Dome or Brasstown Bald, the state high points for Tennessee and Georgia, respectively. The summit area features a huge blacktop
parking lot, a steep but paved trail to the summit, and an observation deck on
the summit. Mount Mitchell State Park
also features a campground and a restaurant, which offers a laid back
cafeteria-style dining experience. Yet
Mount Mitchell also has a wild side, some of which will be explored on this
hike.
The route of this hike is somewhat
complicated because it features two independent parts both of which begin and
end at the summit parking area. The
first part is a 1.8 mile out-and-back that heads north to nearby Mount Craig,
the second highest peak in the Appalachian Mountains. The second part is a 1.1 mile semi-loop that
features Mount Mitchell’s summit and the high-elevation Balsam Nature
Trail. To do the harder part first, this
hike describes the two parts in the preceding order, but you can do them in
either order you wish. In particular, if
bad weather is nearby, you should go directly to Mount Mitchell’s summit to
make sure you reach the highest point before the weather hits.
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| Deep Gap Trailhead |
Start the first part by heading
north on the Deep Gap Trail, which is also called the Black Mountain Crest
Trail. The gravel trail leaves from the
signed Deep Gap Trailhead and passes through a picnic area before descending
steeply on some stone steps. While stone
steps like these are often considered strenuous, you will be thankful for them
in a few minutes.
 |
| Gap between Mounts Mitchell and Craig |
At 0.35 miles, you reach the bottom
of the stone steps and the unnamed gap that lies between Mount Mitchell and
Mount Craig. The next few hundred feet
are the only flat part of this hike, and they pass through some dead fir trees
that were killed by the balsam woolly adelgid.
On the bright side, clear views to the west open up on the left, and
some nice spruce trees stand ahead and behind.
Soon your ascent up the south face
of Mount Craig begins. Well-constructed
stone steps are replaced by rugged natural rock ledges that will require you to
use both your feet and your hands to scramble up and down. The grade is not too steep: the trail gains
340 vertical feet in 0.4 miles, but the persistent rock scrambling makes for
slow going. Also, the high elevation
means that you will likely get winded faster than usual.
 |
| Rocky trail to Mount Craig |
At 0.8 miles, the final push to
Mount Craig’s summit begins as you pass a sign warning of the fragile alpine
environment. Soon you exit the pine
forest onto the bare rock of Mount Craig’s summit. With an elevation just 21 feet lower than
Mount Mitchell, Mount Craig offers a spectacular 180-degree view to the west,
and Mount Mitchell looms to the south. The
effort required to get here means that you may have this viewpoint to yourself,
at least for a little while. A summit
plaque just past the viewpoint tells you that Mount Craig is named for Locke
Craig, the Governor of North Carolina from 1913 to 1917 who was instrumental in
establishing Mount Mitchell State Park.
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| View southwest from Mount Craig |
 |
| View west from Mount Craig |
 |
| Mount Craig summit marker |
 |
| Looking back at Mount Mitchell from Mount Craig |
The Deep Gap Trail continues north
past Mount Craig, but the terrain gets more difficult and the views do not get
any better. Thus, this hike turns around
at Mount Craig and backtracks to Mount Mitchell’s summit parking area to
complete the first part of the hike.
Walk south across the parking area to reach the signed start of the
Summit Trail, which leads to Mount Mitchell’s summit. An interesting museum sits at this trailhead,
as do restrooms and a concession stand.
 |
| Start of Summit Trail |
Perhaps after a visit to the museum
or the concession stand, head up the Summit Trail, which is a paved trail that
connects the parking lot with the observation deck on Mount Mitchell’s
summit. Because almost everyone who
visits this park walks up to the summit, you will not be alone on this
trail. Some benches provide the
opportunity to stop and catch your breath if needed. Also, note the signed trailhead for the
Balsam Nature Trail to the left where the paved trail curves right.
At 2.1 miles, you reach the curved concrete
ramp that leads to the summit observation deck.
Being the highest point in the Appalachians, Mount Mitchell’s
observation deck offers 360-degree views.
Mount Craig is visible immediately to the north, Grandfather Mountain
appears in the distance to the northeast, and some lower ridges lie to the
east. The park road and restaurant lie
down the main ridge to the south. On a
clear day Clingman’s Dome can be seen to the west. Take some time up here to see what you can
see.
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| View east from Mount Mitchell |
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| View south from Mount Mitchell |
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| A selfie at Mount Mitchell; Mount Craig over my left shoulder |
The only way up to the observation
deck is via the paved Summit Trail, so next you need to retrace your steps back
down the Summit Trail. To change the
scenery, get off of the pavement, and reduce the crowds, when you reach the signed
trailhead for the Balsam Nature Trail, turn right to begin the gravel Balsam
Nature Trail. The Balsam Nature Trail is
a 0.6 mile loop that provides an alternate and slightly longer route back to
the summit parking area, and it lets you spend some more time on Mount
Mitchell’s natural side.
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| Start of Balsam Nature Trail |
Marked by white plastic triangles,
the Balsam Nature Trail descends gradually through dense, dark, spruce/fir
forest. Numerous interpretive signs tell
about the unusual plants, fungi, and algae that live at this high
elevation. At 2.4 miles, you pass a rock
shelter on the right. The terrain on the
Balsam Nature Trail is not flat, and some rocks and roots lie in the
treadway. Nevertheless, the going is
much easier than on the Deep Gap Trail you handled earlier.
After a steeper descent at 2.6
miles, you reach a signed trail intersection.
The option going straight is the Mount Mitchell Trail, and it leads
steeply downhill for 5.5 miles to reach a national forest campground at the
mountain’s base. The signed Balsam
Nature Trail turns left and soon reaches its lowest elevation. A dense understory of ferns carpets the
ground in this area.
 |
| Tree growing over a boulder |
The trail climbs gradually over
lots of rocks and roots. Soon you pass a
tree that has put roots down all around a large boulder. Where a signed spur trail heads straight to
reach a spring, turn left to quickly arrive back at the summit parking area and
complete the hike. On your drive out,
stop at the park restaurant to have a snack and enjoy more Mount Mitchell views
to cap off your visit to the roof of the Appalachians.
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