Thursday, September 26, 2019

Chatfield Hollow State Park: Red/Orange Loop (Blog Hike #773)

Trails: Red, Purple, Blue, Orange, and Boardwalk Trails
Hike Location: Chatfield Hollow State Park
Geographic Location: west of Killingworth, CT (41.36946, -72.58882)
Length: 4 miles
Difficulty: 9/10 (Difficult)
Date Hiked: August 2019
Overview: A loop hike, mostly moderate but with occasional rock scrambling, exploring Chatfield Hollow.
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From the SR 80/SR 81 rotary in Killingworth, drive SR 80 west 1.2 miles to the park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, and follow the main park road 0.3 miles to the swimming area parking, where this hike begins.  Note that this park charges a $15 entrance fee for non-Connecticut residents on weekends but no entrance fee on weekdays; time your visit accordingly.

The hike: Tucked in one of the many steep-sided gorges that run north-south across south-central Connecticut, Chatfield Hollow State Park protects 412 acres in and along its namesake hollow.  Development of the park began in 1934 when the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) dammed Chatfield Hollow Brook to create 7 acre Schreeder Pond and planted some pine trees around the pond.  The land was designated as a state park in 1949, and Schreeder Pond still serves as the park’s swimming and fishing areas today.  Indeed, Chatfield Hollow State Park has been designated a trout park due to the high quality of its fishing opportunities.
            The park, hollow, and brook get their names from the descendants of three Chatfield brothers who built a gristmill on this brook during Colonial times.  Before the Chatfields arrived, earlier people left behind artifacts in some shallow rocky caves located near the park entrance.  This hike does not take you to these caves, but they can be accessed via the 0.25 mile Chimney Trail that could be added on to this hike.
            The park retains a rustic character, as it offers only the aforementioned swimming area, some picnic tables, and a small nature center for amenities.  For hikers, the park offers 9 trails totaling over 6 miles.  Many routes through the park’s trail system are possible, but the route described here forms a grand tour of the park that explores both the tranquil, flat streamside areas and the rocky, steep hollow rim areas.
Red Trail exiting swimming area
            From the swimming area, pick up the Red Trail as it heads east and immediately begins climbing a long series of wooden steps.  Trails at Chatfield Hollow are marked with color-coded rectangular paint blazes, and some of these trails see sufficiently little traffic that the blazes come in handy to help you find your way.  The hollow’s rim is only about 200 vertical feet above the brook, but all trails in and out of the hollow are quite steep, as you quickly learn on this initial climb.
            At 0.25 miles, you reach the hollow’s rim as a spur trail exits right to the White Trail, which in turn leads to adjacent Cockaponset State Forest.  Stay with the Red Trail as it curves left to head north along the hollow’s rim.  The rim area features a lot of boulders, and the shallow rocky soil supports only some stunted pine trees and a thick understory of shrubs and grass.
Climbing toward the hollow's rim
            The Red Trail undulates gently as it heads north with the deep and steep hollow to your left.  Near 0.5 miles, the trail treads atop a sheer rock cliff that would give nice views into the hollow during the leafless months.  All of the rock ledges at Chatfield Hollow are made of a gray metamorphic rock called Monson gneiss, and the rock’s odd color gives the area a distinctive look.
Top of a sheer rock ledge
            The going on the hollow rim is fairly easy, but when the trail dips under the cliff line the treadway becomes rough and boulder-strewn.  You may need to use your hands to keep your balance while clambering over the boulders.  Just shy of 1 mile, Chatfield Hollow Brook comes into view as the Purple Trail enters from the left.  Soon you reach a red covered bridge that spans the brook.  Do not cross the bridge now, but instead remain on the Red Trail as it stays on the east bank of the brook.
Covered bridge
            At 1.3 miles, the Red Trail ends at a small pond created by a stone dam with a waterwheel.  Some sunny picnic tables make nice places to sit, but a parking lot across the pond ensures you will not be alone here.  After enjoying this area’s tranquility, walk around the pond to reach the parking lot.
Pond at end of Red Trail
            My plan for continuing this hike was to pick up the Orange Trail at the west side of this parking lot, but I could not find the Orange Trail.  In hindsight, I looked for the Orange Trail in the wrong spot: I should have looked in a small cul de sac just north of the parking lot.  As an improvised route, I turned left on the park road that serves the parking lot and walked down the road to the covered bridge you passed earlier.  I then crossed the covered bridge and hiked the Purple Trail, the blazes of which are a very light shade of purple.  The Purple Trail offers a flat but somewhat rocky course along Chatfield Hollow Brook.  Some nice beech trees live along the brook, and this improvised route turned out to be quite pleasant.
Hiking along Chatfield Hollow Brook
            At 1.75 miles, the Purple Trail comes out at a picnic area beside the brook and the park road.  Wanting to get back on my intended course, I crossed the brook via the park road’s bridge and picked up the signed West Crest Trail, which is marked with blue rectangular paint blazes.  True to its name, the West Crest Trail climbs out of the west side of Chatfield Hollow.  The climb is gradual at first, but the grade becomes steep and rocky before you reach the hollow’s rim.
            Ignore an unmarked trail that exits left before reaching a junction with the Orange Trail at 2.1 miles.  Turn left to begin heading south on the Orange Trail.  This part of the Orange Trail offers a comparatively flat and easy trek, and some old stone walls indicate this land has been farmed in the past.  Where the Orange Trail splits, you could go either way because the two options come back together further south, but the left option is about half as long as the right option.  I chose the shorter option, but you should choose whichever one pleases you.
Hiking the Orange Trail
            3 miles into the hike, traffic on SR 80 comes within earshot on the right as a tall, stark, nearly vertical gneiss rock outcrop can be seen ahead.  Now comes the hardest part of the hike: the trail circles around to the back of the outcrop and climbs its bare rock ledges.  Whereas you may have needed to use your hands to navigate the boulders earlier on this hike, you will definitely need to use your hands to climb and descend these ledges.  I met some rock climbers/rappellers here who were enjoying this cliff for their sport, and their climbing route was much longer and sheerer than mine.  Some nice views to the west might emerge here in the leafless months.
            The trail traces the cliff line before curving right and descending the back (east) side of the rock outcrop.  This descent is steep and rocky but more manageable than the way you came up.  At 3.5 miles, you reach the south end of the Orange Trail when you intersect the park exit road.  Cross the road to begin the Paul F. Wilderman Boardwalk, which is named for its designer.
Paul F. Wilderman Boardwalk
            Made of real wood, the boardwalk carries you over a shallow wetland formed by a broad section of Chatfield Hollow Brook.  Interpretive signs describe the wetland’s rich flora and fauna, but the greenery is sufficiently dense to make wildlife viewing difficult.  The east end of the boardwalk comes out at a gravel parking lot near the park entrance road.  Turn left and walk the park road back to the swimming area to complete the hike.  Alternatively, if you have more time and energy you could turn right to reach the start of the Chimney Trail and explore the park's caves.

Saturday, September 21, 2019

Baxter State Park: Appalachian Trail to Big Niagara Falls (Blog Hike #772)

Trail: Appalachian Trail
Hike Location: Baxter State Park
Geographic Location: northwest of Millinocket, ME (45.88171, -69.03036)
Length: 2.6 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: August 2019
Overview: An out-and-back to Big Niagara Falls with a view of Mount Katahdin.
Park Information: https://baxterstatepark.org/
Photo Highlight:


Directions to the trailhead: From Millinocket, drive Baxter Park Road 17.1 miles to the park’s Togue Pond Entrance Gate, where you will need to pay your entrance fee ($15 for non-Maine residents on my visit) and tell the park rangers what part of the park you wish to visit.  The road surface turns to gravel at the entrance gate.  Follow the narrow and winding Park Tote Road 10 miles to the signed turnoff for Daicey Pond.  Turn left and drive the narrower Daicey Pond driveway to the Daicey Pond day use parking area on the right.  Park here.

The hike: The words Katahdin and Baxter are legendary in hiking circles.  As the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail (AT), northbound AT through-hikers spend months making their way over mountain after mountain to reach the final mountain, Mount Katahdin.  Katahdin is also the highest point in Maine, and its huge multi-peaked steep-sided pinnacle dominates the landscape for miles around.  On point, the 5269 foot mountain stands 4288 feet above its highest adjacent valley.
            Katahdin remains the icon it is today partly due to the foresight of Percival Baxter, the Governor of Maine from 1921-1925 for whom this park is named.  Baxter set aside 30,000 acres of land for this park, and each parcel of land he donated came with a deed of trust that gave instructions for how to care for the land and an endowment.  Thus, although Baxter is a state park, it is operated and funded separately from the rest of Maine’s state park system.
            Baxter’s instructions were to keep the land wild and untouched by man, and those instructions are carried out in the park we visit today.  The vast 209,644 acre park features no amenities except trails, picnic shelters, and tent campgrounds, and all roads in the park are narrow, curvy, gravel roads.  Thus, although the road distance from the park entrance gate to this trailhead is only 10 miles, it will take about 45 minutes to drive that distance.  Plan your visit accordingly.
            Options for hikers at Baxter State Park are almost unlimited.  Of course Mount Katahdin’s summit is the dream destination, but all trails that lead to the summit are very long and strenuous with several thousand feet of elevation gain.  For people who cannot make such a trek, the park has numerous locations that offer postcard views of Mount Katahdin.  One of the most famous of these views can be had at Daicey Pond (pronounced like DAY-see), and this hike combines this postcard view with a short journey along the AT to a pair of high-volume waterfalls.
Mt. Katahdin across Daicey Pond
Katahdin's Baxter Peak across Daicey Pond
            Because Mount Katahdin is the center of everybody’s attention in this area, you may as well start by getting your postcard view.  From the day use parking area, continue walking down the campground entrance road and climb slightly to reach Daicey Pond Campground.  The pond is located right behind the campground’s well-volumed library (yes, this campground has an actual building full of ink-and-paper books), and Mount Katahdin looms large across the pond.  Mount Katahdin actually has several peaks, and this view features the southwest Abol face of Baxter Peak, the mountain’s highest point.  The moment I saw Mount Katahdin across Daicey Pond was the highlight of my summer 2019 Maine hiking trip, which included visits to both of Maine’s top-tier hiking destinations: Baxter State Park and Acadia National Park.  I hope you enjoy this view as much as I did.
Information kiosk at AT trailhead
            After savoring the view, walk back down to the day use parking area, and then turn left to begin heading southbound on the AT.  An information kiosk and vault toilet stand here, and a sign gives distances to Big and Little Niagara Falls among other more distant destinations.  After tracing the south edge of a sunny meadow, the trail curves left to pass through a wetland area.  A series of rocks and wooden planks keep your feet mostly dry, but the careful stepping you need to do here makes this section the hardest part of the hike.
Major trail intersection
            At 0.3 miles, you reach a major signed trail intersection.  The option going straight is the Daicey Pond Nature Trail, which leads back to Daicey Pond.  Turn right to continue southbound on the AT, following the AT’s famous white rectangular paint blazes.  A gradual descent through pine and birch trees ensues, and the smooth dirt treadway makes for easy going.  At 0.75 miles, you pass an interesting pine tree with roots stretched down over a boulder.
Tree growing over boulder
            Just shy of 1 mile, you reach the signed spur trail to Little Niagara Falls.  Turn right and hike the short rocky spur to the falls.  While calling either of the waterfalls on this hike Niagara requires quite a bit of embellishment, Little Niagara Falls is more of a rocky cascade than a fall.  Nevertheless, Nesowadehunk Stream provides a lot of water to cascade, and a large streamside boulder makes the perfect spot to catch the aquatic action.
Little Niagara Falls
            Return to the AT and turn right to continue southbound.  The trail descends moderately over a somewhat rocky course to reach the signed spur trail to Big Niagara Falls.  Turn right for the steep, rocky, and rooty descent to the side of Big Niagara Falls.  Though only about 20 feet high, Big Niagara Falls is more of a true waterfall than Little Niagara Falls, and the surrounding rocks make for a stark setting.
Big Niagara Falls
            The AT continues downstream along Nesowadehunk Stream for several more miles, but there are no more waterfalls nearby.  Thus, most hikers turn around here and retrace their steps to the Daicey Pond parking area.  Other nice dayhikes at Baxter State Park include a 4-mile hike along the AT to Katahdin Falls, another nice waterfall with Katahdin-fed waters, and a 6.5 mile hike to Katahdin Lake, which features a view of Mount Katahdin from the side opposite of Daicey Pond.