Taconic State Park: Copake Iron Works to Bash Bish Falls (Blog Hike #960)

Trails: Ironworks and Bash Bish Falls Trails
Hike Location: Taconic State Park, NY and Bash Bish Falls State Park, MA
Geographic Location: Copake Falls, NY (42.11903, -73.51411)
Length: 2.6 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: An interstate out-and-back to the tallest waterfall in Massachusetts.
New York Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/83/details.aspx

Massachusetts Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/bash-bish-falls-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946776
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: In southeast New York State, take the Taconic State Parkway to SR 23 (exit 88).  Exit and go east on SR 23.  Drive SR 23 east 7.1 miles to SR 22 and turn right on SR 22.  Drive SR 22 south 4 miles to SR 344 and turn left on SR 344.  The park entrance is on the left in another 0.4 miles.  Turn left to enter the park, then angle right to cross an iron grate bridge to reach the Copake Iron Works Historic Site, where this hike begins.

The hike: Stretching from north to south for 150 miles along New York State's eastern boundary, the Taconic Mountains are rich in natural and human history.  Geologically the Taconic Mountains are part of the Appalachian Mountain chain, but they have been pushed to their current location from 25 miles to the east: rocks in the Taconic Mountains are older than rocks in the strata beneath the mountains.  The name Taconic comes from a word used by the Delaware people that translates to "in the trees," a testament to the lush forests that grow in these mountains.

            In the 1700's and 1800's the Taconic Mountains were an important source of natural resources.  Wood, marble, limestone, slate, and iron ore were all extracted from these mountains.  The Copake Iron Works at this trailhead produced pig iron from 1848 until 1903, and it is one of the most intact rural iron works in the region.

            Many parks protect parts of the Taconic Mountains including Massachusetts' Mount Greylock State Reservation and Vermont's Mount Equinox, but New York's namesake Taconic State Park may be the best of the lot.  Established in 1926 when New York State purchased the old Copake Iron Works, Taconic State Park today is part of the largest forested area between Virginia and Maine.  The park offers a 106-site developed campground, 18 cabins, swimming in a 40-foot deep flooded iron ore pit, biking on the Harlem Valley Rail Trail, and many miles of hiking trails.  

            For hikers, the park's most popular trail is the Bash Bish Falls Trail.  This trail follows Bash Bish Brook upstream into Massachusetts' adjacent Bash Bish Falls State Park, the namesake of which is the tallest waterfall in Massachusetts.  Many people just hike to the waterfall, but adding a fairly flat 0.5 miles each way lets you start at the old Copake Iron Works, so why not visit the old iron works too?  This hike forms an out-and-back between the old iron works and Bash Bish Falls, thus allowing you to see both fantastic natural scenery and interesting human history all in one moderate hike.

Iron Works Museum at trailhead

Copake blast furnace

            Either before or after your hike, you will want to stop in the Iron Works Museum, a brick building that is the old blowing engine house.  Today this building serves as the Visitor Center for the historic site, and it offers a film and exhibits about the site.  Across the gravel road from the Visitor Center stands the old blast furnace.  A large recently-built shelter protects the furnace from the elements, and the furnace is in great shape considering its age.

Start of Ironworks Trail

            When you are done admiring the furnace and reading the interpretive signs, exit the rear (east side) of the historic area to pick up the Ironworks Trail.  A small brown sign that reads "Trail to Bash Bish Falls" marks the start of the Ironworks Trail.  The wide dirt/gravel trail heads into the woods and climbs slightly before assuming a more level grade.  More remnants of the iron works can be seen here including the bed of the railroad that served Copake and a couple of ponds that supplied water for the furnace.

Day Pond, water source for iron furnace

            After hiking a narrow section of trail above Bash Bish Brook, you reach the east end of the Ironworks Trail where it intersects the park's cabin road at 0.4 miles.  To continue to Bash Bish Falls, turn left on the gravel road, cross Bash Bish Brook on the road's bridge, and climb slightly to reach the main parking lot for Bash Bish Falls on SR 344.  Most people start their hike to Bash Bish Falls here.  Walk to the far (east) side of the parking lot and pick up the wide gravel Bash Bish Falls Trail to join them.

Start of Bash Bish Falls Trail

            The trail dips slightly before beginning the persistent gradual to moderate climb toward Bash Bish Falls.  A couple of benches overlook Bash Bish Brook, which cascades and flows pleasantly to the right.  The beautiful mature forest is dominated by maple, birch, and pine trees with a few redbud trees mixed in.  Overall, the ambiance on this trail is sublime.

Bash Bish Brook

            At 1.1 miles, you cross the state line into Massachusetts.  Technically you also exit New York's Taconic State Park and enter Massachusetts' Bash Bish Falls State Park, but the scenery and trail conditions do not change significantly.  1000 feet later, you reach the overlook area for Bash Bish Falls.

Crossing the state line

            Bash Bish Falls is a tall rocky waterfall that drops and cascades for about 80 feet via several lines into a large plunge pool.  The trail to the base of the falls was closed on my visit, but I still got a good view from the overlook area.  This overlook may be the most scenic spot I visited on my September 2023 hiking trip to Massachusetts, so take some time to enjoy the scenery.

Bash Bish Falls

            Due to recent trail closures, the trail ends at the waterfall overlook, so next you have to retrace your steps 1.3 miles to the old Copake Iron Works to complete your hike.  Before you leave, several other buildings associated with the old iron works beckon your exploration.  Also, the iron works' old ore bed has been turned into a swimming area, and it sits behind the park office if temperatures are warm enough to warrant taking a dip.

Taughannock Falls State Park: Gorge Trail (Blog Hike #435)

Trail: Gorge Trail

Hike Location: Taughannock Falls State Park

Geographic Location: northwest of Ithaca, NY (42.54540, -76.59919)

Length: 2 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A nearly flat hike to New York’s tallest waterfall.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/62/details.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725571
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Taughannock Falls State Park is located on SR 89 9.6 miles north of Ithaca.  Park in the trailhead parking area on the west side of the road (left if you are driving northbound).  If this parking area is full, you can park in the beach parking area across the road and walk back to the trailhead.

The hike: The Finger Lakes region contains many scenic east-west gorges, but not all of these gorges are created equal.  Take, for example, the gorge along Taughannock Creek.  While Glen Creek (at Watkins Glen) and Buttermilk Creek (at Buttermilk Falls) deliver water into Seneca or Cayuga Lake via numerous short cascades, Taughannock Creek accomplishes the job in a single drop.  The result is 215-foot Taughannock Falls, the tallest waterfall in New York (yes, even taller than Niagara).

            The land on which the park sits today was first owned by Samuel Wayburn, who received it as payment for his service during the Revolutionary War.  Wayburn built some structures on the site, thereby founding a community on the west shore of Cayuga Lake near today’s park beach.  Steamboats on the lake frequently stopped at this town, and later another industrial center was established further up Taughannock Creek.  The railroad arrived in 1873, bringing with it tourists to view the falls.  Two resort hotels, the Taughannock House and the Cataract House, were built on the gorge’s rim.

            By the early 1900’s, the area was in decline.  In 1922, the Taughannock House burned, and in 1925 the land was purchased by New York State for use as a park.  The CCC came here in the 1930’s and built most of the structures we see today.  In addition to the waterfall, the park has a campground, some cabins, a beach area, and a large marina.

            Three hiking trails trace through the park: the 0.75 mile one-way Gorge Trail along the creek, the 3 mile Rim Trail loop around the rim, and the 2 mile Multi-use trail away from the gorge area.  I squeezed this hike in at the end of a Sunday afternoon, so I only had time to hike the Gorge Trail.  Even though I did not get to take the full tour, I am glad I came here: of all the gorges I visited in the Finger Lakes region, this one is my favorite.

Trailhead: Gorge Trail

            At the rear of the parking lot, a black sign with yellow letters advertises, “Gorge Trail: ¾ mile to 215 foot high falls.”  What hiker could resist such a promotion?  Almost immediately the Rim Trail exits left and begins the steep climb to the rim.  Staying with the Gorge Trail, in 300 feet you arrive at the first and tallest in a series of ledge-type waterfalls in Taughannock Creek.  This ledge is about 10 feet tall, so the real show is still to come.

Ledge waterfall in creek

Taughannock Creek

            The Gorge Trail continues upstream with the creek below you to the right and the gorge cliffs rising to the left.  The light-colored flattish rock in the creek is Sherburne sandstone, while the dark-colored flaky rock of the cliff is Geneseo shale.  For its entire distance the trail is wide firmly-packed fine gravel.  A strong person could easily push a wheelchair or baby stroller up this trail to the waterfall.  Also, even though this hike is popular, the wide trail corridor makes this hike feel less crowded than some other parks in the region.

Hiking along the Gorge Trail

            Just past 0.5 miles, you reach an area where the shale cliffs come close on the left.  Several interpretive signs are located on the trail, and the park has a cell phone tour that offers more insight into the natural surroundings.  The trail curves right here to stay between the cliff and the creek.

            At 0.85 miles, you cross Taughannock Creek on a bridge just before reaching an observation platform at the base of the waterfall.  Water pours out of a spout framed by towering walls of sandstone and shale.  The cliffs look especially dark and ominous in the evening when the sun disappears behind the rock.  An interesting interpretive sign contains some historical pictures of the waterfall and demonstrate how its appearance has changed as the water continues to erode the rock.

Taughannock Falls

            The Gorge Trail ends at this observation platform, so the only option is to retrace your steps to the parking area at the mouth of the gorge.  If you have more time and energy, consider hiking the Rim Trail for a different perspective on the gorge.  The Rim Trail is very steep at the beginning and end but fairly flat in between.

Buttermilk Falls State Park (Blog Hike #434)

Trails: Gorge and Rim Trails

Hike Location: Buttermilk Falls State Park

Geographic Location: south side of Ithaca, NY (42.41735, -76.52090)

Length: 1.3 miles

Difficulty: 8/10 (Moderate/Difficult)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A steep loop hike with many stairs around a large cascading waterfall.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/151/details.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=943616
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Buttermilk Falls State Park is located on SR 13 2.5 miles south of Ithaca.  Pay the park entrance fee, and park in the large blacktop parking lot just past the entrance station near the base of the falls.

The hike: The name Robert H. Treman appears on only one of the state parks on the south side of Ithaca, but in fact he had much to do with both of them.  Treman’s family owned many businesses near Ithaca, one of which was the Ithaca Water Works.  They bought land around Buttermilk Creek and several other nearby creeks in case they needed the additional water supply for their water works.

            In 1891, Treman became a trustee of Cornell University in Ithaca.  By 1923, the conservation/preservation movement had become mainstream, and Treman donated 154 acres along Buttermilk Creek to form Buttermilk Falls State Park.  The park that bears his name, Robert H. Treman State Park located less than 2 miles from here, is also comprised of land he donated.

            Today Buttermilk Falls State Park boasts a 60-site campground, some picnic areas, some ball fields, a swimming area at the base of Buttermilk Falls, and 5 hiking trails totaling nearly 5 miles.  Several routes are possible through the trail system, but the route described here provides the shortest hike that gives the falls the full treatment they deserve.  Note that even though this hike is short, it is not easy: the vertical rise is nearly 400 feet, so most of the 1.3 miles either climbs or descends steeply.  I took nearly an hour to complete this hike.

Swimming area at base of falls

            Start by walking back past the park entrance station to the swimming area at the base of Buttermilk Falls.  The swimming area actually gives the best view of the waterfall, which is framed on the right by a rock outcrop and on either side by lush greenery.  The cascade-type waterfall drops over innumerable layers of siltstone rock.  This rock’s unusual dark yellow color gives this falls and creek its name.

            Cross Buttermilk Creek on a wooden bridge below the swimming area to intersect the Gorge Trail.  Turn left to head up the gorge.  Almost immediately the trail starts climbing some steep stone steps with the cascading waterfall to your left.  At the top of these steps, you reach an overlook perched at the top of the lowest cascade.  This overlook gives views of more cascades upstream and of the swimming area downstream.

View downstream from first overlook

            Above this overlook, the water keeps falling and the trail keeps climbing, now over some concrete waterbars that pose as much challenge as stairs.  I noticed some yellow birch along the trail, an unusual sight this far south.  Occasionally the trail switchbacks away from the cascade, but usually it stays near the creek.  Some of the upper cascades have plunge pools that invite a dip as much as the official swimming area at the very bottom.

Climbing over concrete waterbars

            Just when you think this waterfall climb may never end, at 0.4 miles you top the last cascade and pass a wooden lean-to shelter.  After another 0.1 nearly flat miles, the trail forks with the left fork crossing a trail bridge over Buttermilk Creek.  This hike will continue by crossing the bridge, but before doing so, walk a short distance upstream to see one final cascade and the interesting Pinnacle Rock.

Upper cascade in Buttermilk Creek

            After crossing the creek, a final short, moderate climb brings you to the Rim Trail and the highest point on this hike.  Take a soft left to begin the return route along the Rim Trail.  The Rim Trail descends gently with the precipice out of view through the greenery on your left.  Tulip poplar trees grow well in the dry rim soil.

            At 0.8 miles, the grade steepens as the trail very closely parallels a gravel park maintenance road on the right.  This section of trail is quite eroded, so you will find it easier to walk on the maintenance road here provided you do not miss where the trail curves left to head back to the rim.  An overlook at the rim gives a very limited view of the upper cascades in Buttermilk Creek.

Descending on the Rim Trail

            The steep descent continues on a couple of wide switchbacks as the trail leaves the gorge area for good.  The paved park campground road comes into view on the right as you make the last switchback.  A short distance further, the trail returns to the parking area, thus completing the hike.  If you have some extra time, consider hiking one of the park’s other trails, two of which stand out above the rest.  The Larch Meadow Trail departs from the ball field area to take you on a 1 mile tour of meadow, wetland, and woodland habitat, while the 1.5 mile Lake Treman Trail leaves from the upper parking area and circumnavigates its namesake lake.

Finger Lakes National Forest: Gorge Trail (Blog Hike #433)

Trail: Gorge Trail

Hike Location: Finger Lakes National Forest

Geographic Location: northeast of Watkins Glen, NY (42.45660, -76.80603)

Length: 2.3 miles

Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A remote out-and-back hike featuring a small glacier-sculpted gorge.

Trail Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MEDIA/stelprdb5319003.pdf

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=943617
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Watkins Glen, drive east on SR 414.  Where SR 414 and SR 79 split on the east side of Seneca Lake, angle right on SR 79.  Take SR 79 2.7 miles to CR 4 and turn left on CR 4.  Drive CR 4 1.2 miles to Wyckoff Road and turn right on Wyckoff Road.  Take Wyckoff Road 0.5 miles to gravel Burnt Hill Road and turn left on Burnt Hill Road.  Note that Burnt Hill Road is only maintained during the summer.  The trailhead for the Gorge Trail is 1.5 miles ahead on Burnt Hill Road at a small gravel parking area on the right.

The hike: The land comprising today’s 16,212 acre Finger Lakes National Forest, New York’s only national forest, has a long agricultural history.  Much of this land was given to Revolutionary War veterans as payment for their service, and most of it quickly became productive farmland for subsistence farmers.  Over 100 years later, the depleted soil on what was marginal farmland from the start became uncompetitive compared to the more fertile soil in the Midwest.

            During the Great Depression, the federal government purchased over 100 farms in the area through the Soil Conservation Service.  Early efforts involved soil stabilization and the conversion of this land to grazing land.  By the 1950’s, multiple-use land management was coming into vogue, and the land was transferred to the US Forest Service.  The national forest was formally established in 1983.

            The forest today features several good hiking trails, but almost none of them form loops.   Such is the case with the 1.25 mile end-to-end Gorge Trail described here.  As you would expect from its name, the Gorge Trail explores one of the region’s many east-west gorges. This gorge is not as steep or scenic as those in the region’s state parks, but it also doesn’t draw the massive crowds.  I came here on a summer Saturday afternoon when the parking lot at nearby Watkins Glen State Park was overflowing, and I had this trail entirely to myself.

Trailhead: Gorge Trail

            The single-track Gorge Trail heads east from the rear of the parking lot at a brown carsonite post.  Quickly the forest opens up into a grassy area beside a small pond.  The shallow pond was a tranquil area on my visit, but this area would give good wildlife viewing in the early morning and late evening.

Hiking beside the pond

            Past the pond, the trail descends slightly and crosses a short 4-plank boardwalk over a wet area.  The boardwalk gets you over the wettest area, but a few smaller wet areas will need to be negotiated without aid.  At 0.2 miles, the long-distance Interloken Trail enters from the right.  For the next 0.2 miles the combined Gorge and Interloken Trails head gradually downhill over a slightly rocky and eroded course.

Boardwalk on Gorge Trail

            Just shy of 0.4 miles, the orange-blazed Interloken Trail exits left to continue its northbound course.  This route stays with the blue-blazed Gorge Trail as it angles right to continue east.  After a slight ascent to top a ridge, the gorge for which this trail is named comes into view through the trees to the right.

Entering the gorge

            The rest of the Gorge Trail is a descent, usually gradual but occasionally steep, as the trail parallels the gorge on the right.  At only one point does the trail ever reach the bottom of the gorge, and then it only stays there for less than 100 feet.  Maple and beech trees dominate the deciduous forests while hemlocks comprise the majority of the pinelands.  The understory is rather sparse.

Hiking in the gorge

            At 1.1 miles, the trail curves left as it bids a final farewell to the gorge area.  After crossing the national forest boundary, which is marked by red rings painted around trees, a final steep descent brings you to the Mark Smith Road trailhead and the eastern end of the Gorge Trail.  As I mentioned in the introduction, this trail does not form a loop, so the only option is to turn around and retrace your steps 1.2 miles to the Burnt Hill Road trailhead to complete the hike.

Watkins Glen State Park (Blog Hike #432)

Trails: Gorge and Indian Trails

Hike Location: Watkins Glen State Park

Geographic Location: Watkins Glen, NY (42.37511, -76.87351)

Length: 2.5 miles

Difficulty: 8/10 (Moderate/Difficult)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A lollipop loop with lots of stone steps featuring many waterfalls.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/142/details.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725569
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Watkins Glen State Park is located in downtown Watkins Glen 6 blocks south of the intersection of SR 414 and SR 14.  Park in the large blacktop parking lot at this entrance.

The hike: If you like the rounded look of the ridges in the Finger Lakes region compared to the more angular look of those to the south, you can thank the set of glaciers that covered this region a few thousand years ago.  As the glaciers plowed across New York, they scraped the tops off of the ridges and scoured the valleys, creating the north-south finger lakes we see today.  As water ran off the ridges into the new lakes, deep east-west gorges were carved out of the glacier-transformed terrain.

            The east-west gorge called Watkins Glen was noted for its scenic value early on. In 1863, the gorge was purchased by Morvalden Ells, a journalist from Elmira, and opened to the public as a resort.  The land was purchased by New York State in 1906, and the area has been operated as a state park ever since.  The park features a 302-site campground, a gift shop, a shuttle bus service that takes visitors to/from the park’s two entrances, and several miles of trails.  Three trails explore the gorge itself: the Gorge Trail through the belly of the beast, and the South Rim and Indian Trails on the rim.  This hike combines the Gorge and Indian Trails to tour the gorge both from within and from above.

            Before we start, I have one warning about this park: it is VERY popular.  Indeed, on summer weekends all parking lots regularly fill to capacity, and the first mile of this hike on the Gorge Trail can feel as busy as the New York Thruway.  You can try to minimize the crowds by coming first thing in the morning or during the off-season, but there is no escaping this park’s popularity.

Trail enters first tunnel at trailhead

            Begin at the rear of the parking lot where the entrance path climbs some stone steps to the right of Glen Creek and narrows to enter a tunnel.  Both of the tunnels at Watkins Glen are artificially illuminated, so visibility is never a problem.  On the other side of the tunnel, the waterfall show begins as you pass the first of the glen’s 19 waterfalls.

            After crossing Glen Creek on a bridge, ignore Couch’s Staircase as it exits left and climbs toward the south rim.  At 0.2 miles and after climbing some more stone steps in the gorge, you reach Cavern Cascade.  This waterfall derives its name from the very narrow cave-like gorge at its base.  The trail actually passes behind this waterfall, giving you the odd opportunity to look down the gorge through a wall of water.

Cavern Cascade

            Past Cavern Cascade, the trail climbs a spiral staircase through Spiral Tunnel, the second tunnel on this trail.  After exiting this tunnel, Cliff Path enters from the right.  Cliff Path is the last route down from the Indian Trail, and therefore this intersection marks the beginning of the loop portion of this hike.  Water always takes the easiest route down, so usually the best choice at this type of decision point is to climb on a creekside trail and descend on a rim trail.  Therefore, this route will stay on the Gorge Trail for the climb and use the Indian Trail and Cliff Path as the return route. 

            The glen widens slightly above this junction, and a suspension bridge goes from rim to rim over your head.  More stone steps will require your energy to climb, and Ansel Adams wannabies may slow your steps further as they block the trail to line up the perfect photo.  After passing The Narrows, Lover’s Lane enters from the rim.  You next enter tranquil Glen Cathedral, one of the creek’s widest and calmest sections.  Interpretive signs tell of the wet and dry microclimates that exist within the glen as they compare the habitats of The Narrows (wet) and Glen Cathedral (dry).

Central Cascade

            Just shy of 0.5 miles, the creek’s mellow section abruptly ends at Central Cascade, another ledge waterfall where water tumbles over a more resistant layer of shale.  After climbing still more stone steps above the waterfall, the trail crosses the  second bridge over the creek and passes a section of creekbed that features a large number of potholes, evidence of old waterfalls that have now eroded away.  At 0.6 miles, you walk behind Rainbow Falls, noteworthy because afternoon sunlight reflects in the waterfall to form rainbows.

            Past Rainbow Falls, the trail crosses the final bridge over Glen Creek and, 0.9 miles into the hike, passes through Spiral Gorge.  Spiral Gorge is another very narrow section of the glen with numerous potholes and scenic waterfalls.  Just shy of 1 mile, ignore a cross-trail and keep straight to continue upstream along the creek.

Potholes in Spiral Gorge

            Past the 1 mile mark, the crowds thin because the tightest part of the gorge and all of the major waterfalls are behind you.  At 1.2 miles, you reach the base of Jacob’s Ladder, a steep 180-step stone staircase.  This staircase is your route to the rim, so take your time climbing the steps.  All of the park’s stone steps were built by the CCC in the 1930’s, and their efforts make our tour of the gorge much easier.  As you ascend, notice the active railroad trestle that stretches across the gorge straight ahead and above you.

Jacob's Ladder

            1.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail intersection on the glen’s north rim where our return route, the Indian Trail, exits to the right.  Turn right to begin the Indian Trail.  Having just gained over 500 feet in elevation, most of it on steep stone steps, the gradual downhill on the smooth dirt Indian Trail is welcome.  Wire mesh fencing prevents you from falling in the gorge on the right.

Starting down the Indian Trail

            Several side trails exit right into the gorge, and some overlooks give you the topside view of Watkins Glen.  Truth be told, you can see much less from the rim than you can from inside the gorge.  Near 2 miles into the hike, you pass St. Mary’s Cemetery and an old pink maintenance building on private land to the left.  Please respect private property rights and stay on the trail.

            At 2.4 miles and at the bottom of a steep descent, you reach the north end of the suspension bridge across the glen.  This hike does not cross the bridge, but walking out onto the bridge gives a nice view directly up and down the glen.  Staying on the north rim, another 0.1 miles of downhill hiking brings you to Point Lookout.  Point Lookout sits at the end of the rim and offers a fantastic view east to the glen’s mouth, Seneca Lake, and beyond.

View from Point Lookout

            At Point Lookout, the trail curves 180 degrees to the right and makes a final descent to intersect the Gorge Trail, thus closing the loop.  The crowds greet you as you reenter the glen, but turning left and walking 0.25 miles mostly down stone steps will return you to the lower parking area and complete the hike.

Letchworth State Park: Gorge Trail to waterfalls (Blog Hike #431)

Trail: Gorge Trail (to waterfalls)

Hike Location: Letchworth State Park

Geographic Location: southwest of Mount Morris, NY (42.58818, -78.01591)

Length: 5.1 miles

Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: An out-and-back along the Genesee River gorge rim passing 3 river waterfalls.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/79/details.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725568
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Mount Morris, drive SR 36 north 1.2 miles to the park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park.  Drive the main park road 14.9 miles to the signed turnoff for Lower Falls. Turn left on the Lower Falls access road, and bear right where the river access road exits left.  Drive the Lower Falls access road 1 mile to the large paved Lower Falls parking lot at its end.  Park in this lot.  Note that this hike is located in the south section of Letchworth State Park.  Coming from the south, it will be faster to use the park’s southern Portageville entrance and drive the park road north 2.4 miles to the Lower Falls access road described above.

The hike: Cutting a 20-mile-long and 600 foot deep gash through the heart of western New York, the Genesee River gorge has been called the Grand Canyon of New York and the Grand Canyon of the East.  The river held the interest of early industrialists for its source high in the Pennsylvania mountains (for the Genesee Valley Canal described later in this blog entry) and its ability to power mills with falling water.  The Genesee’s many waterfalls led to the building of mills and tool shops, which in turn led to the city of Rochester along the waterfalls near the river’s mouth.

            The gorge today is the centerpiece of impressive 14,350 acre Letchworth State Park, one of the crown jewels of the New York state park system.  Established by an act of the governor in 1907, the park is named for William Pryor Letchworth, a Buffalo businessman who bought this land after it had been clear-cut logged in the 1850’s.  Letchworth built his country estate Glen Iris here, a building that can still be toured today.  After Letchworth’s death in 1910, the transition of his estate into a state park began, making Letchworth one of the oldest state parks in America. 

Visitors flock to the park for the gorge overlooks, the three large river waterfalls in the gorge, and the seemingly endless recreation opportunities.  With a large tent and trailer campground, cabin area, numerous picnic areas, a canoe/kayak launch for the gorge’s whitewater rapids, a swimming pool, and an historic inn, the park seems to have every form of recreation imaginable.

            Included in these recreation opportunities is hiking, as 23 trails totaling 66 miles await hikers.  By most accounts the park’s best trail is the 7 mile each way Gorge Trail, which links many points of interest on the gorge rim.  Because a 14 mile route is a bit long for a day hike, I recommend the 5.1 mile round-trip portion described here to capture the most scenic section of the trail.

Lower Falls trailhead

            Heading south from the parking area, pick up the wide dirt trail that goes between a concession stand on the left and the restroom building on the right.  At less than 0.1 miles, the trail forks.  The Gorge Trail stays right here while the spur trail to Lower Falls, the first of the three major river waterfalls, exits left.  You will want to visit Lower Falls at some point during your visit, and the 127 stone steps between here and the waterfall will seem easier to climb now than at the end of the hike.  Thus, angle left to begin the Lower Falls Trail.

            After descending the stone steps and meandering to the river bank, you reach a decaying overlook that gives a nice view of the shale rock formations below Lower Falls.  There is also a footbridge over the river here, but it cannot be used to form a nice loop.  Continuing along the Lower Falls spur trail, the trail quickly enters a grassy area that gives a nice view of Lower Falls.  This 55 foot waterfall plunges down a fault line that runs diagonally across the river.  Lower Falls is actually my least favorite of the three major waterfalls at Letchworth, but it would be a show-stealer at most parks.

Lower Falls

            After viewing Lower Falls, retrace your steps back up to the Gorge Trail and turn sharply left to continue south on the Gorge Trail.  The Gorge Trail is blazed with yellow rectangular paint blazes inscribed with a black “1,” the “1” corresponding to the trail number on the park map.  The trail climbs slightly to arrive at a closed parking area that used to serve the “easy view” overlook of Lower Falls.  The falls view from here is obstructed, so the “easy view” is no substitute for the arduous stone step climbing you just did.

            Past the closed overlook area, the trail climbs moderately as it enters a mixed deciduous forest featuring maple, oak, and beech trees.  The forest at Letchworth is nice mature forest because this land has been managed as parkland for over 100 years.  1 mile into the hike, you climb some more stone steps, but this set is much shorter than the set to Lower Falls.

Hiking along the gorge rim

            After climbing the last set of stone steps, you enter a dark white pine planting that dates to the early 1900’s.  Some additional gorge views featuring the tall, vertical shale cliffs open up to the left.  There are no railings at these impromptu overlooks, so take care not to get too close to the edge.

Impromptu gorge overlook

            At 1.6 miles, you reach Inspiration Point.  Accessible by car via the main park road, Inspiration Point is the most famous view in the park.  Looking southwest, two of the three river waterfalls can be seen: Middle and Upper Falls.  You will get better views of these waterfalls later, so perhaps of more interest for now are the remnants of the Genesee Valley Canal that can be seen in the riverbed.  Authorized in 1836, the Genesee Valley Canal provided a waterway connection between the Erie Canal in Rochester and the Alleghany River in Olean, PA, thus allowing boats to float from the east coast to the Ohio River.  The canal was short-lived, as the dawn of the railroad era had come.  The canal opened in 1862 and closed in 1880.  Interpretive signs help you find the canal remnants in the gorge.

Inspiration Point

            Past Inspiration Point, some gradual climbing brings you to the highest point of the hike.  The park road pinches very close to the rim here, and a low stone wall separates the trail from the precipice.  The trail now descends some gradual stone steps located right beside the park road before switchbacking left to descend to the gorge rim and additional nice gorge views.

Trail pinched between road and gorge rim

            At 2.4 miles, the trail crosses a steep ravine on a sidewalk built right beside the park road.  On the south side of the bridge, you leave the main park road for a gorge overlook, cross the upper/middle falls access road, descend some stone steps, and cross the access road again to reach the overlook for Middle Falls.  Watch for the paint blazes to follow these turns.

            At 107 feet high, Middle Falls is my favorite waterfall in this park.  From this overlook, the waterfall appears roughly at eye-level, making for excellent viewing.  Water plunges over several layers of rock with enough volume to create a rainbow in the mist.  As the trail approaches the top of the falls, an impressive view of the shale gorge cliffs appears below the falls.

Middle Falls

            The trail surface turns to mulch as it continues upstream with the river only feet below you to your left.  3 miles into the hike, you arrive at the viewing platform for Upper Falls.  Another cascading ledge-type waterfall, this 71 foot waterfall is most distinguished by the active railroad trestle that frames it in the background.  Two observation platforms give different angles of the falls.

Upper Falls

            The Gorge Trail continues past Upper Falls another 0.2 miles, but most of that distance involves climbing stone steps, and no other points of interest are obtained.  Thus, I recommend you turn around at the Upper Falls overlook and retrace your steps 2.2 miles back to the Lower Falls trailhead, savoring each overlook one more time on your way back.

Wilson-Tuscarora State Park (Blog Hike #430)

Trail: Interpretive and Hiking Trails

Hike Location: Wilson-Tuscarora State Park

Geographic Location: west of Wilson, NY (43.31221, -78.84494)

Length: 1 mile

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: A short lollipop loop beside a marsh.

Park Information: https://parks.ny.gov/parks/69

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725566
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Wilson-Tuscarora State Park is located on SR 18 2 miles west of the town of Wilson or 7.3 miles east of the north end of Robert Moses Parkway.  Enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and drive the main park road past the bathhouse to the boat launch area.  Park in the gravel lot beside the paved boat-trailer parking lot.

The hike: Established in 1965, Wilson-Tuscarora State Park protects 476.5 acres of reverting farmland on the south shore of Lake Ontario in extreme northern Niagara County.  The park’s name comes from its location near the town of Wilson and on Tuscarora Bay, an inlet of Lake Ontario located directly across the park road from this trailhead.  In addition to the boat launch by the trailhead parking area, the park features a beach on Lake Ontario and several picnic areas.

            For hikers, Wilson-Tuscarora State Park contains three short interconnecting nature trails: the red-blazed Interpretive Trail, the green-blazed Hiking Trail, and some blue-blazed connector trails.  I visited this park on a 95-degree summer day in a year when the bugs were horrible, so I wanted to keep my hike short and sweet.  Thus, I chose the 1 mile route described here that uses parts of all three trails and gives a good sample of Wilson-Tuscarora’s hiking offerings.

Trailhead

            Start at a white information sign and wire mesh gate that are located behind a willow tree near the parking area.  Almost immediately the trail forks with the Interpretive Trail heading left and the Hiking Trail heading right.  This fork marks the start of the loop portion of this hike, and this description will turn left to follow the Interpretive Trail’s red-diamond blazes.

            The mowed-grass Interpretive Trail heads southeast through young mixed deciduous forest, and the marshy area around Twelve-Mile Creek comes into view on the left.  Many cattails can be seen growing in the marsh.  I would have stopped to look for wildlife, but swarms of mosquitoes kept me moving. 

Cattail marsh

            Near 0.5 miles, a pair of blue-blazed connector trails exit right.  The Interpretive Trail going straight continues along the marsh for another 0.5 miles, but it does not form a loop.  Thus, even if you choose to extend your hike by hiking the entire Interpretive Trail, you will need to use one of these connector trails to continue the loop eventually.  This hike will take the second of these connector trails to head over to the Hiking Trail.

            While the Interpretive Trail traverses mostly young lowland forest, the Hiking Trail features old farm fields that are still meadows.  Thus, the connector trail transitions from forest to meadow until, 0.65 miles into the hike, you reach the green-blazed Hiking Trail.  The shortest route back to the trailhead is to turn right here, and that is the direction this hike will take.  To extend this hike, you could turn left here and hike the Hiking Trail’s loop through the heart of the meadow.

Hiking the Hiking Trail

            Staying near the boundary between meadow on the left and forest on the right, the other blue connector trail enters from the right, and the other end of the Hiking Trail enters from the left.  Very soon the Interpretive Trail enters from the right to close the loop, and you arrive back at the trailhead to complete the hike.  Before you leave, make sure to get a good view of Lake Ontario either by walking across the park road to Tuscarora Bay or stopping at the bath house/beach area on your way out.

Tuscarora Bay