Fort Churchill State Historic Park (Blog Hike #875)

Trails: Ruins, Nature, and Railroad Trails
Hike Location: Fort Churchill State Historic Park
Geographic Location: south of Fernley, NV (39.29575, -119.26696)
Length: 1.5 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: July 2021
Overview: A double loop through the ruins of historic Fort Churchill and through natural desert terrain.
Park Information: http://parks.nv.gov/parks/fort-churchill
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=891496
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Fernley, take US 95A south 22 miles, passing through the town of Silver Springs, to the entrance for Fort Churchill State Historic Park on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, pay the park entrance fee, and park in the medium-sized blacktop parking lot in front of the park office and museum.

The hike: Built in 1860 and 1861 at the request of United States Army Captain Joseph Stewart, Fort Churchill provided protection for early settlers and for mail traffic along the Pony Express.  The fort occupied a strategic location along the Carson River, and it provided important supplies for Union soldiers during the Civil War.  The fort was named for Sylvester Churchill, Inspector General of the United States Army.

            Only about 200 soldiers were stationed at Fort Churchill at any one time, and the fort was abandoned in 1869.  In 1932, the State of Nevada took control of the site.  Shortly thereafter, the fort ruins were partially restored, and the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built the Visitor Center that is still in use today.  The site was added to Nevada's state park system in 1957, and in 1994 an additional 3200 acres along the Carson River were acquired, thus forming the park we visit today.

            The fort ruins and museum still form the park's centerpiece, but the park also offers a small 20-site campground and several miles of trails.  The hike described here takes you through the fort ruins, but it also takes you around a short loop through the natural desert terrain.  Thus, this hike samples all Fort Churchill State Historic Park has to offer.

Trailhead at museum

            From the right (west) side of the museum and Visitor Center, step off the concrete patio and head gradually downhill through the desert on a dusty dirt trail.  You can see the ruins up ahead the entire time.  After crossing a gravel park road, you reach the Ruins Trail.  Turn right to begin a square-shaped tour around the ruins.

Partially restored barracks

            The various adobe buildings have been restored to various degrees.  For the officers quarters, only the foundations remain.  The barracks and the mess hall have some walls but no roofs.  Interpretive signs describe the buildings and tell you about the soldiers that lived and worked here.

            At 0.4 miles, after walking around 2 of the 4 sides of the Ruins Trail, you reach a signed trail intersection where the Nature Trail exits right.  We will return to this point on the Ruins Trail later, but to also see the park's natural desert areas, angle right and then left to begin the Nature Trail.  The Nature Trail heads gradually downhill through thinly vegetated desert area with the dense greenery of the Carson River directly ahead and the bare desert mountains in the background.

Start of Nature Trail

            After crossing a park road and an active railroad, you reach a trail intersection marked by a wooden post.  We will eventually turn right here to begin the Railroad Trail, but first continue straight a short distance to reach an old wooden footbridge over a small stream.  Notice the dense greenery around the stream in contrast to the barren desert you have been walking through, a testament to the life water brings to the desert.

Old wooden bridge

            The trail soon ends at a park road, and while another trail heads left along the Carson River, it does not form a loop.  Thus, I turned around, walked back across the old wooden bridge, and angled left to begin the Railroad Trail.  True to its name, the narrow Railroad Trail soon climbs up and over the active railroad track.  Climbing up and down the rocky elevated railroad bed creates the only significant elevation change or difficulty on this hike.

Crossing the railroad bed

            At 0.9 miles, you reach a secondary gravel/dirt parking area.  Walk through the parking area, then turn right to begin the last leg of trail back to the ruins.  A gradual climb returns you to the ruins.  Take a soft left and then right to continue around the Ruins Trail.

Commander's office

            The Ruins Trail passes more partially restored adobe buildings including the powder magazine, the laundresses' quarters, and the commander's office before closing the square.  Turn right and retrace your steps back up to the Visitor Center to complete the hike.  While you are here, a few other places may merit your attention.  History buffs will enjoy viewing the Pony Express plaque on the side of the Visitor Center that was placed here by the National Pony Express Centennial Association in 1960-61.  Also, a pioneer cemetery is located across the entrance road from the Visitor Center.  Finally, a large number of rabbits near the parking area provided post-hike entertainment for me as they hopped around the grassy area in front of the Visitor Center looking for a snack.

Rye Patch State Recreation Area: East Cove Trail (Blog Hike #581)

Trail: East Cove Trail

Hike Location: Rye Patch State Recreation Area

Geographic Location: northeast of Lovelock, NV (40.47290, -118.29957)

Length: 1 mile

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: June 2016

Overview: A short out-and-back down a Badlands-type ravine to the shore of Rye Patch Reservoir.

Area Information: http://parks.nv.gov/parks/rye-patch

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=530988
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: East of Reno/Sparks, take I-80 to SR 401 (exit 129).  Exit and go west on SR 401.  Drive SR 401 west 1.1 miles to the area entrance, where you need to pay your entrance fee.  Then backtrack 0.4 miles to the east trailhead access road, which will be on the left as you drive back east.  Only a primitive sign that says “Nature Trail” marks this road.  Turn left and drive the gravel road to its end at a cul de sac that marks the trailhead.  If you have a low clearance vehicle like I do, some wispy plants might brush up against the undercarriage of your car on this last segment to the trailhead.

The hike: Although the Rye Patch Reservoir on the Humboldt River is one of the largest lakes in northern Nevada, today’s reservoir is much smaller than its aquatic ancestor.  Several millennia ago this area was covered by prehistoric Lake Lahontan, a lake formed by melting glaciers that covered 8500 square miles of area and measured up to several hundred feet deep.  Nearby Pyramid Lake, the outflow of the Truckee River, is the largest remnant of this vast ancient lake.

            Rye Patch Dam, which forms the reservoir, was built in 1935 for the purposes of flood control and improved irrigation for nearby agricultural areas.  Originally this land was operated by the Pershing County Water Conservation District and Parks Department, but control was transferred to the State of Nevada in 1971 to form Rye Patch State Recreation Area.  The area’s name comes from a patch of wild rye found along the Central Pacific Railroad route that ran through here in the mid-to-late-1800’s.

The area features 47 campsites, 2 picnic areas, a double-lane boat ramp, and 3 short nature trails.  Unfortunately for hikers, the three nature trails do not interconnect, and therefore it is impossible to combine trails to form longer loops.  This hike describes the longest of the three nature trails: the 0.5 mile one-way East Cove Trail.

Vehicle gate at trailhead

            The vehicle gate at the end of the entrance road marks the beginning of the trail.  For its entire length the trail follows the old road bed down to the shore of the reservoir.  Walk through a gap beside the vehicle gate to begin descending the wide two-track gravel trail.  The grade is moderate at first but soon becomes very gradual.

            The classic desert scenery of sagebrush and other shrubs that dominates the trailhead area gives way to colored bands of dirt/rock strata as you descend.  Thus, this hike feels more like a hike in the Badlands National Park of South Dakota or the Painted Desert of Arizona than a hike in the Nevada desert.  The light oranges and pinks in the surrounding rocks add color to an otherwise bleached-white canvas.

Descending toward Rye Patch Reservoir

            A large number of leopard lizards ran along the path as I continued descending.  At 0.5 miles, you round the final bend to views of Rye Patch Reservoir.  Compared to most lakes, Rye Patch Reservoir is very undeveloped, and the Badlands type surroundings make the lake accessible only at a few points.  Thus, this lake feels like a world all its own.  The breeze blowing across the water felt good on the warm overcast day of my visit.

Rye Patch Reservoir

            The trail ends at the lakeshore, and it does not form a loop.  Thus, the only way out is to retrace your steps 0.5 miles uphill to your car to complete the hike.  While you are in the park (and because you have paid your entrance fee), you may as well try the park’s other two short trails.  The West Hiking Trail starts at the west end of the dam and leads 0.3 miles one-way to the Westside Campground, whereas the River Nature Trail goes for 0.2 miles along the Humboldt River below the dam.  Make the most of your day in the desert at Rye Patch.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area: Moenkopi Trail (Blog Hike #196)

Trail: Moenkopi Trail

Hike Location: Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

Geographic Location: west of Las Vegas, NV (36.13489, -115.42768)

Length: 2 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: May 2006

Overview: A fairly flat hike through classic Mojave desert country.

Area Information: http://www.redrockcanyonlv.org/

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=126646
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the west side of Las Vegas, take I-215 to West Charleston Boulevard (SR 159).  Exit and go west on SR 159.  Take SR 159 west 8 miles to the entrance to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  Turn right to enter the area.  Follow the signs to the Visitor Center, and park in the Visitor Center parking lot.

The hike: Most people visit Las Vegas for the entertainment, dining, and shopping one can find on and around the Strip.  For most of these visitors, all they will see of Las Vegas is an airport and a collection of concrete, steel, and glass.  For those who want to experience Las Vegas in its natural state, they will have to drive only a short distance out of town to a place such as the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

Created in 1990 by an act of Congress, the conservation area protects nearly 197,000 acres of desert.  Most visitors to the area will remain in the canyon, which is surrounded by several sheer, rocky, and almost inaccessible mountains.  The average elevation in the canyon is around 4000 feet, while the surrounding mountains, Mount Wilson, Rainbow Mountain, Bridge Mountain, and La Madre Mountain rise between 6700 and 8100 feet.  Indeed, as you drive into the canyon, you seem light years away from the smoggy concrete center known as Las Vegas.

The most popular attraction at the conservation area is the paved 13-mile scenic loop drive.  This drive takes you around the canyon and to several viewpoints where you can see the mountains with Las Vegas in the background.  There are also several unpaved, four-wheel drive roads that branch off of the loop road.  While they provide excitement for those daring to take them on, these roads should only be undertaken with adequate preparation and an appropriate vehicle.

To really get a feel for the desert, or Las Vegas as it was a few hundred years ago, you will have to leave the roads and venture onto one of the hiking trails.  The area contains over 55 miles of hiking trails to choose from, ranging from rather flat desert hikes to difficult scrambles through boulder fields.  The Moenkopi Trail described here gives a fairly easy hike but still allows you to get a real desert experience.  Whichever trail you choose to hike, make sure you bring plenty of water.  Do not attempt even this easy trail without at least a 20-ounce bottle of water.  If you have forgotten to bring water, purchase one from the vending machines in the parking lot.

The trail begins at a signed trailhead between the visitor center and the stand-alone outdoor restrooms.  At the trailhead sign there seem to be several trails to choose from, but stay on the widest trail.  Only one official trail departs from this trailhead, so the other smaller wild trails will soon fizzle out, leaving you in the middle of the hot, dusty desert.  Notice the first small hill in the distance, as this turns out to be the destination of this trail.

After only 0.1 miles, you are faced with a fork.  The Calico Hills Trail exits right, heading for the lumpy red rocks you can see in the distance called the Calico Hills.  Also exiting to the left is the 13.4 mile Grand Loop Trail, a long, difficult, hot trail that should not be attempted without adequate conditioning and preparation.  Bear to the left to continue on the Moenkopi Trail.

Calico Hills in the distance

            The trail drops gently to cross a small wash and then begins a long, gradual climb.  You would hardly notice the grade except that, if you turn around, you will see the visitor center across the desert getting smaller and farther beneath you.  Along this stretch you will pass several interpretive signs telling you of the desert plants and the surrounding mountains.

Joshua Tree along the trail

            At 0.9 miles you will reach a T-intersection.  The Calico Hills Trail reenters from the right.  The Moenkopi Trail turns left and ascends to the top of the small hill you saw at the start of this hike.  From the top of this hill, you can look east and see the Visitor Center in the distance, now some 300 feet below you, mountains beyond that, and, in clear weather, Las Vegas in the very far distance.  As you tread along the top of the hill, you will be walking on slanted, bare rock, so watch your footing.

Moenkopi Trail to the hilltop

            The trail curves unexpectedly to the right and begins a moderate to steep descent, meandering down the opposite side of the hill.  This is true desert hiking, as all that can be seen around you are the shrubby plants on the desert floor and the foreboding, rocky mountains in the distance.  Still descending, the trail curves gradually to the left, curving around the base of the hill.

At 1.5 miles, the trail intersects a medium-sized wash, a creek bed that is dry except after a rain, which is infrequent in the desert, of course.  For the next 0.3 miles the trail will use the wash itself as a treadway, so expect some soft, loose gravel under your feet.  The Grand Loop Trail reenters from the right, and shortly thereafter the trail exits the wash to the left.

The trail curves gradually left, now on the final gentle uphill climb back toward the Visitor Center.  At 2 miles, the trail ends at the Visitor Center parking lot.  While you are here, you should take time to drive the 13 mile scenic road around the canyon.  The road gives a close-up view of the mountains seen in the distance along this trail and lets you see the canyon from a different perspective, thus giving a complete picture of Red Rocks.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area: Callville Trail (Blog Hike #195)

Trail: Callville Trail

Hike Location: Lake Mead National Recreation Area

Geographic Location: northeast of Boulder City, NV (36.14126, -114.72636)

Length: 0.5 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: May 2006

Overview: A short climb to an excellent viewpoint of Lake Mead.

Area Information: http://www.nps.gov/lake/index.htm

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=130506
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Boulder City, take US 93 south to Lakeshore Rd. and the entrance to Lake Mead National Recreational Area.  Turn left to enter the area, paying the entrance fee at the entrance station.  Take Lakeshore Rd. for 11 miles to Northshore Rd. and turn right on Northshore Rd.  Take Northshore Rd. 11.1 miles to the signed Callville access road.  Turn right on the paved access road.  Take the Callville Access Road downhill for 4 miles to the entrance to the Callville Bay Campground.  Park in the large parking lot to the left of the campground entrance.

The hike: Created in 1935 by the massive Hoover Dam, the deep, clear waters of Lake Mead attract millions of visitors each year.  Many of these visitors come to fish or simply cruise in their boats.  For those without private boats, Lake Mead Boat Cruises, which you will pass on your way to this trailhead, offers narrated cruises of the lake on their paddlewheelers.  Also, no visit to Lake Mead would be complete without a stop to see Hoover Dam, one of the modern engineering marvels.  Without the millions of dollars and man-hours to create this edifice, this hiking opportunity would likely not exist.

What many of these visitors fail to realize is that only 13% of the National Recreation Area consists of Lake Mead.  The remaining 87% consists of desert terrain, most of which lies in Nevada, though some lies on the south side of the lake in Arizona.  For a close-up look at this part of the recreation area, you will need to do some hiking.  Several trails depart from Northshore and Lakeshore roads.  You will have to drive a short distance off of the main road to find this trailhead, but few trails in the recreation area provide such nice rewards for such little effort as this one.

The trail begins at the intersection of the campground road and the main Callville access road.  The dusty trail immediately begins climbing with the marina parking area (where your car is parked) visible downhill to the left.  Notice the black volcanic rocks around you along this trail, a testament to this area's recent geologically active past.

The grade lessens for a short period before reaching the hardest of the climbing.  If you take your time, nearly everyone will be able to make it to the top.  As you approach the top of the hill, some wild trails branch off to the right.  Keep straight and continue climbing toward the nearest summit.  Throughout this hike, keep an eye on the skies for any sign of an approaching thunderstorm.  When I hiked this trail in mid-May, I hiked to the top on a perfect, warm, sunny day, but hiked back down some fifteen minutes later in a gusty duststorm.

View of Lake Mead from Callville Summit

Lake Mead, looking south

            At only 0.25 miles from the start, you will arrive at the summit.  What a view you have from up here!  Immediately in front of you is the sparkling blue lake.  To the right you can see Hoover Dam (which looks small 15 miles in the distance).  To the left of Hoover Dam is Fortification Hill in Arizona.  To the right of the dam is Boulder City and the River Mountains.  To your left you can see the Callville Bay marina immediately downhill and the Black Mountains, made of more of the black, igneous rock that lies underneath you, in the distance.  When you have finished taking in the view, retrace your steps to the trailhead to complete the hike.