Millwood State Park: Wildlife Lane Trail (Blog Hike #1046)

Trail: Wildlife Lane Trail
Hike Location: Millwood State Park
Geographic Location: east of Ashdown, AR (33.68450, -93.98141)
Length: 4.2 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: February 2025
Overview: A flat, winding loop through wet forest on the west shore of Millwood Lake.
Park Information: https://www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/millwood-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=979782
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: From Ashdown, take SR 32 east 8.8 miles to the signed entrance for Millwood State Park on the left; you reach the park entrance just before crossing Millwood Dam.  Turn left to enter the park, and drive the main park road 0.3 miles to the signed trailhead parking on the left.  There is room for 4-6 cars in this small parking lot.  Additional parking is available near the park entrance if the trailhead parking lot is full.

The hike: Located in southwest Arkansas north of Texarkana, Millwood Lake was created when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built an earthen dam near the confluence of the Saline and Little Rivers.  The dam was authorized by the Flood Control Act of 1946 and completed in 1966, and it is the main structure responsible for flood control along the Red River below Lake Texoma.  The lake's name speaks to this area's logging and sawmill industry, and much of the lake is unnavigable by boat due to submerged timber.  In fact, the name Millwood was used for a river landing in this area as early as 1845.

            Perched on the west shore of its namesake lake, Millwood State Park consists of 824 acres leased by the State of Arkansas from the Corps of Engineers.  The park is best known for its fishing; the submerged timber makes for great bass, crappie, and catfish habitat.  The park also offers a 45-site developed campground, a marina on Millwood Lake, some picnic areas, and 2 hiking trails: the 4 mile Wildlife Lane Trail and the 1.5 mile Waterfowl Way Trail.  The 2 trails start from a common trailhead, so you could hike either or both of them.  This blog entry features the longer Wildlife Lane Trail, and I would like to return to this park some time to hike the shorter Waterfowl Way Trail.

Main trailhead

            From the small parking lot, walk around the metal vehicle gate and past the colorful trail information board to begin walking northwest on a dirt road.  This road provides access to an old picnic area that has seen its better days, hence the reason for the locked vehicle gate.  After walking through the picnic area, follow the wooden sign that says "trailhead" and walk across a metal bridge to begin the common entrance trail, which is marked by white paint blazes.

Common entrance trail

            At 0.3 miles, you reach the signed trail intersection where the Waterfowl Way and Wildlife Lane Trails part ways.  As directed by the sign, turn left to begin the Wildlife Lane Trail, which is marked with yellow paint blazes.  The Wildlife Lane Trail starts in a fairly dry area with lots of pine trees, but this entire area is a seasonal wetland.  The wetness will find you eventually in all but the driest of times, but going counterclockwise around the loop will save the wettest areas for last, thus delaying getting your feet wet for as long as possible.

Starting the Wildlife Lane Trail

            You may be surprised when you pass the wooden "1 Mile Point" sign without having seen the lake.  This trail winds as much as a mountain bike trail, but the wet areas and some downed trees make biking on this trail a difficult proposition.  True to the trail's name, I did see quite a bit of wildlife that included some deer and common woodland birds.

1 Mile Point

            1.6 miles into the hike, you reach Alligator Lookout, which provides your first clear view of Millwood Lake.  Some bald cypress trees grow near the damp lakeshore.  Alligators are a common sight in this area, but I did not see much wildlife here on the cold, damp, February morning when I came here.  A bench provides a good opportunity to rest, rehydrate, and observe the lake.

Millwood Lake at Alligator Lookout

            The trail stays close to the lake for 0.2 miles before curving left and heading back inland.  Near the 2 Mile Point sign, a signed but faint short-cut trail exits left.  The short-cut shortens the hike by nearly a mile, but this hike continues straight to tour the full Wildlife Lane Trail.  Next you head around the northern portion of the loop.  Another short segment takes you back to the lake's edge for a second and final time.  Another bench with another lakeside view sits in this area.

Hiking south along the west boundary

            At 2.6 miles, the trail curves left to leave the lake for good.  The balance of the hike heads (very) roughly south along the park's west boundary.  The trail remains winding, and some parts are harder to discern on the ground.  Be sure to watch for the numerous yellow paint blazes to stay on the right track.

A moderately wet area

            Near 3.7 miles, you pass through the wettest area of the hike, where you will almost surely get your feet wet.  At 3.9 miles, you close the loop.  Turn right and hike the common entrance trail back through the run-down picnic area to the small parking lot to complete the hike, or add the Waterfowl Way Trail if you want more wetland hiking with more lake views.

Logoly State Park (Blog Hike #1006)

Trails: Crane's Fly, Magnesia Springs, and Spring Branch Trails
Hike Location: Logoly State Park
Geographic Location: northeast of Magnolia, AR (33.34733, -93.18402)
Length: 1.9 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: February 2024
Overview: A round-the-park loop passing a large pond and Magnesia Springs.
Park Information: https://www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/logoly-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=957058
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of US 82 and US 79 on the northeast side of Magnolia, take US 79 north 3.5 miles to CR 47 and turn right on CR 47.  Drive CR 47 east less than 1 mile to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, and park in the perpendicular parking lot in front of the playground and Visitor Center.

The hike: Consisting of 368 rolling acres in the coastal plains east of Texarkana, Logoly State Park (pronounced like LAW-go-lie) was the first environmental education state park in Arkansas.  The park gets its name from 3 families who used to own this land: the Longinos, the Goodes, and the Lyles.  Those families owned the land in 1940, when the Boy Scouts of America leased the land to create Camp Logoly.  The camp closed in 1967.  In 1974, the former camp was purchased by The Nature Conservancy and transferred to the State of Arkansas to create the park we visit today.

            True to its primitive camp history, the park has few amenities.  On point, Logoly State Park offers only a small group camping area, some picnic areas, a playground, and 3 fairly easy hiking trails.  The 3 trails offer quite different scenery, and this hike combines parts of all 3 trails to create a round-the-park journey.

Trailhead near Visitor Center

            From the main parking area, head east to walk past the playground to the Visitor Center, and stop in the Visitor Center to view the exhibits and pick up a trail map.  Next continue east to start the Crane's Fly Trail, which begins at a large colorful sign.  Named for a type of orchid, the Crane's Fly Trail descends slightly before it splits to form its loop around the park's pond.  Turn right to begin a counterclockwise journey around the pond.

View down park's pond

            At 0.25 miles, you reach a short boardwalk that gives nice views down the length of the pond.  The tall pine trees reflect nicely in the pond, making for a tranquil setting.  Next the trail meanders and undulates slightly as it explores the small streams that feed the pond.  Just past 0.5 miles, you reach a trail intersection.  The Spring Branch Trail exits right here, but you want to angle left to keep following the Crane's Fly Trail.

            After tracing the pond's east shore, you reach another trail intersection near the pond's dam.  The Crane's Fly Trail turns left here to cross the dam and quickly close its loop, and you could go that way if you wanted a short and easy hike.  To see more of the park's trails, turn right to begin the Magnesia Springs Trail.

Hiking the Magnesia Springs Trail

            0.8 miles into the hike, you reach this trail's namesake Magnesia Springs.  In the early 1900s these springs emitted a constant flow of clear water, and the concrete catchment you can stand in today would have been knee-deep with water.  Unfortunately, due to both natural and man-made reasons, water tables in this area have lowered; today the springs are more or less dry.  Take some time to imagine what this area might have been like when the springs were flowing.

Magnesia Springs catchment

            Past the springs, the Magnesia Springs Trail climbs gradually on a wide two-track path that looks like an old road.  At 0.9 miles, you reach the east end of the Magnesia Springs Trail where it intersects the Spring Branch Trail.  Turn left to begin the Spring Branch Trail, which is this park's longest trail.

Spring Branch

            The Spring Branch Trail follows the ridge at first, but soon it descends to pass under a high voltage power line and cross its namesake stream on a wooden footbridge.  Some big pine trees live here, and I did some nice wildlife viewing in this part of the park.  The trail curves left and starts heading back uphill.  Some unofficial trails also curve around this area, so you want to watch for the white paint blazes that mark the Spring Branch Trail.

View from observation and photo blind

            After passing back under the high voltage power line, you reach a wooden observation and photo blind.  The power line corridor should be a good place to spot birds and other wildlife, but nothing was visible on the late afternoon that I came here.  Continuing past the blind returns you to pavement at 1.8 miles, and a short road walk brings you back to the parking area to complete the hike.

Lake Dardanelle State Park: Meadowbrook Trail (Blog Hike #950)

Trail: Meadowbrook Trail
Hike Location: Lake Dardanelle State Park
Geographic Location: west side of Russellville, AR (35.28450, -93.20275)
Length: 1 mile
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: April 2023
Overview: A short flat campground loop through young forest.
Park Information: https://www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/lake-dardanelle-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=935473
Photo Highlight:

Short Video: (coming date TBD)

Directions to the trailhead: In western Arkansas, take I-40 to US 64 (exit 78).  Exit and go east on US 64.  Drive US 64 east 1.8 miles to SR 326 and turn right on SR 326.  Drive SR 326 south 2.9 miles to the state park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, then turn right at the first intersection.  Park in the long parking spaces on the right next to the red and blue sign for the Meadowbrook Trail.

The hike: Occupying 40,000 acres in western Arkansas, Lake Dardanelle is one of the largest reservoirs on the Arkansas River.  Dardanelle Dam was built by the Army Corps of Engineers (COE) between 1957 and 1969, and it includes navigable locks and a power plant.  The dam and lake are part of the McClellan-Kerr Arkansas River Navigation System, which ensures the river is navigable by barges all of the way from the Mississippi River up to the Tulsa Port of Catoosa in northeastern Oklahoma.

            Located on the lake's north/east shore is Lake Dardanelle State Park, which dates to 1966.  The park is popular due to fishing and boating on Lake Dardanelle, its 74-site developed campground, and large Visitor Center with aquariums.  For hikers, the park offers only one trail, the short campground nature trail described here.  While not a destination hike, this trail makes for a nice easy leg-stretcher hike while you are driving I-40 across western Arkansas, and I was glad I stopped here.

Southern trailhead

            Marked with round aluminum markers, the Meadowbrook Trail is laid out as a loop with spur trails to the north and south.  This description starts on the southern spur where a blue and red sign marks the trailhead.  Heading north, the trail immediately heads into the woods, which is younger forest dominated by sweet gum and red cedars.  In less than 500 feet, the trail splits to form its loop.  For no particular reason, I turned right to start heading around the loop counterclockwise.

Trail bridge over stream

            Traffic noise from SR 326 enters your ears from the right as you continue to head north.  Ignore some spur trails that exit left.  When I hiked here on a Saturday afternoon in late April, it had rained hard the night before.  Water in this very flat forest has nowhere to drain, so I had to step around quite a few muddy areas with standing water.  Fortunately, wooden bridges get you over the worst of the wet areas.

Overlook platform

            At 0.4 miles, you reach the north end of the loop.  We will eventually take the trail going sharply left to get back to the south trailhead, but first turn right to head up the north spur, which leads to 2 points of interest.  In a very short distance, you reach a wooden overlook platform.  This platform is quite boring: it overlooks nothing but some forest with a few birdhouses.  Continuing north brings you to the campground amphitheater at 0.5 miles.  This amphitheater sits in a nice grove of large pine trees, and it makes a nice place to rest and have a trail snack at the midpoint of this hike.

Campground amphitheater

Large oak tree

            The amphitheater marks the northern terminus of the Meadowbrook Trail, so now you need to head back south.  For a little variety, where the trail splits to form its loop, turn right and hike the loop's western arm for your return journey.  This side of the loop features some large old oak trees known as wolf trees.  Wolf trees have branches close to the ground, indicating they once grew in a sunny area.  At the close of the loop, angle right to return to the south trailhead and complete the hike.  While you are here, be sure to check out the park's Visitor Center, which features some interesting aquariums and some scenic views across Lake Dardanelle from its rear entrance.

Bull Shoals-White River State Park: Lakeside and Gaston Wildflower Garden Trails (Blog Hike #847)

Trails: Lakeside and Gaston Wildflower Garden Trails

Hike Location: Bull Shoals-White River State Park
Geographic Location: west of Mountain Home, AR (36.36367, -92.56764)
Length: 1.3 miles
Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: May 2021
Overview: A pair of short nature trails, one with good Bull Shoals Lake views and one through a native wildflower garden.
Park Information: https://www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/bull-shoals-white-river-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=872822
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Mountain Home, take SR 5 west 6.8 miles to SR 178 and turn left on SR 178.  Drive SR 178 west 7.1 miles to the state park entrance.  The trailhead for the Lakeside Trail is found at the Lakeside Picnic Area on the right just inside the state park entrance.  To find the Gaston Wildflower Garden, continue west on SR 178 to Powerhouse Road, angle softly left on Powerhouse Road, and drive Powerhouse Rd. downhill to the campground entrance.  Angle left on River Road where the campground access road continues straight.  The parking lot for the Gaston Wildflower Garden is on the left less than 500 feet after beginning River Rd.

The hike: Built by the Army Corps of Engineers between 1947 and 1951, the Bull Shoals Dam on the White River was one of the largest concrete structures in the world at the time it was completed.  The Bull Shoals Dam and 6 others on the White River were authorized by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt in response to severe flooding between 1915 and 1927.  The dam is located on the Marion/Baxter County Line in northern Arkansas, but the lake it forms goes well into Missouri to the north.

Bull Shoals Dam, as seen from Visitor Center

            Established in 1955, Bull Shoals-White River State Park protects 732 acres around the Bull Shoals Dam.  The park's Visitor Center provides excellent views of the dam and offers interesting exhibits about the area's natural and human history.  The park offers excellent amenities, which include a 103-site developed campground, numerous picnic areas, a marina, fishing on Bull Shoals Lake, and 4 short hiking trails.  When I came here on a cloudy afternoon in mid-May with thunderstorms threatening, I needed to keep my hike short, so I hiked 2 of the park's easier trails: the Lakeside Trail and the Gaston Wildflower Garden Trail.  These two trails are the ones described here.

Start of Lakeside Trail

            Starting with the Lakeside Trail, the Lakeside Trail begins at the east end of the picnic area as a gravel trail that descends over some wooden waterbars.  A sign at the edge of the woods tells you that this trail was built by the Young American Conservation Corps in 1979.  Just after entering the woods, the trail splits to form its loop.  To save the best lake views for last, I continued straight and used the trail going left as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.

Hiking the Lakeside Trail

            Marked with yellow paint blazes, the trail heads northeast through dense forest dominated by oak, hickory, and sweetgum trees.  Interpretive signs identify some of the more common plants in this forest.  Ignore a red-blazed short-cut trail that exits left and soon cross a habitat boundary into much younger and thinner forest that borders the lake.  This younger forest offers good sightlines that allowed me to see a couple of blue herons along the lake.

Bull Shoals Dam across the lake

            At 0.5 miles, you pass a bench that offers a nice lakeside view of Bull Shoals Dam across the lake.  Next the trail re-enters the older and denser forest, and the red-blazed short-cut trail re-enters from the left.  After following the lakeshore and crossing a wooden footbridge, you reach a final lake view at 0.9 miles.  A short uphill walk closes the loop, and a right turn returns you to the picnic area to complete the Lakeside Trail.

Entrance to Gaston Wildflower Garden

            While you are in this part of the park, you may as well check out the Gaston Wildflower Garden, which is located near the campground.  More of a walk than a hike, a short system of concrete trails winds through the cultivated garden.  The garden features flowers and plants that are native to the Ozarks, and interpretive signs identify and tell you about the various plants on display.  The garden is named for Jim Gaston, former Commissioner of Arkansas State Parks, and it makes an interesting way to round out your visit to Bull Shoals-White River State Park.

Pea Ridge National Military Park: East Overlook to Williams Hollow (Blog Hike #846)

Trails: (unnamed)

Hike Location: Pea Ridge National Military Park
Geographic Location: northeast of Rogers, AR (36.45503, -94.02168)
Length: 3.1 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2021
Overview: An out-and-back to the site of a Confederate field hospital.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/peri/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=872465
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: In northwest Arkansas, take I-49 to US 62 (exit 86).  Exit and go east on US 62.  Drive US 62 east 12.4 miles to Old Liberty Road and turn left on Old Liberty Rd.  Drive Old Liberty Rd. 0.9 miles to the park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, pass the Visitor Center, and drive the park's auto tour road to East Overlook (tour road stop #9), where this hike begins.

The hike: During the first year of the American Civil War, the Union devoted most of its energy and resources in the Trans-Mississippi theater (i.e. the region west of the Mississippi River) to keeping Missouri in the Union.  To this end, on December 25, 1861 Union Brigadier General Samuel R. Curtis began a campaign to drive Confederate forces out of southwest Missouri, and by mid-February 1862 he had successfully driven the pro-Confederate Missouri State Guard into northwest Arkansas.  The Confederates' counterattack began on March 2, when Confederate Major General Earl Van Dorn took command of a 16,000 man army south of Fayetteville, AR and marched them north with the objective of re-entering Missouri and capturing St. Louis.

            Blocking Van Dorn's path into Missouri was Curtis' 10,500 man Federal army, which held fortified positions on northwest Arkansas' Pea Ridge plateau.  Knowing that a frontal assault on Curtis' position would end in certain failure, Van Dorn chose to outflank Curtis and attack his fortifications from behind.  However, the extra maneuvers took longer to execute than Van Dorn expected, and the extra time gave Curtis an opportunity to reposition and prepare for the attack.

            Van Dorn's attack came on March 7, with the fiercest fighting occurring at Elkhorn Tavern, an important crossroads and telegraph line.  At the end of the first day, Van Dorn controlled Elkhorn Tavern, and he thought he had won.  Yet resupplies Van Dorn expected never arrived, and the next day Curtis counterattacked at Elkhorn Tavern.  Running low on ammunition, Van Dorn was forced to withdraw, and the Battle of Pea Ridge was over.  Although Missouri provided men and supplies to both sides of the war, Missouri stayed in the union while facing no serious future threats, and most Pea Ridge veterans saw action in later campaigns further east.

            Today the site of Elkhorn Tavern and the nearby battlefields are preserved as sprawling Pea Ridge National Military Park.  A Visitor Center contains exhibits about the battle, and a 7-mile auto tour road links together the points of interest.  The park features several hiking trails, and the hike described here takes you past a reconstructed Elkhorn Tavern while exploring points of interest throughout the eastern part of the park.

Path to East Overlook

            From the parking lot for East Overlook, head out the paved path that leads 464 feet to the shelter that is the East Overlook.  True to its name, East Overlook offers a panoramic view across the western part of the Pea Ridge battlefields, and interpretive signs describe the action that occurred here on March 7 and 8, 1862.  Rarely do you get such a birds-eye view of an historic battlefield, so take some time to read the signs and see what you can see.

View from East Overlook

Start of hiking trail

            The dirt hiking trail heads east from the overlook with the vertical cliff dropping off to your right; only a small metal sign with the universal hiker symbol marks the trailhead.  Round aluminum markers mark the trail, which is somewhat faint and primitive.  Oak trees dominate the ridge, and I saw a wide variety of birds here that included a scarlet tanager, an indigo bunting, and a woodpecker.

Descending through a crack in the cliffs

            At 0.25 miles, the level walking ends as the trail descends some steep stone steps built into a crack in the cliffs.  After some more descending and crossing a horse path, you reach the recreated Elkhorn Tavern at 0.5 miles.  A simple structure with a stone chimney, the tavern was the Battle of Pea Ridge's focal point, and numerous interpretive signs describe the tavern and the fighting that took place here.  Elkhorn Tavern is also stop #8 on the auto tour road, and it was a popular spot on the warm Sunday afternoon that I came here.

Recreated Elkhorn Tavern

            To continue the hike, angle left at the tavern and begin hiking northeast on the old telegraph road.  The old dirt road is unsigned and unmarked, but the two-track route is wide and obvious.  A line of cannons stands just north of the tavern.

Descending on the old road

            The trail descends into Williams Hollow on first a gradual and then a moderate grade.  Trail maintenance is not the best, and some tall grass along the trail means you should check yourself for ticks after this hike.  At 1.3 miles, you reach an old tannery site along the creek at the bottom of Williams Hollow.  A few hundred feet later, you rock-hop a small side stream and reach the old Confederate field hospital site.  Interpretive signs describe the activity at these sites during the Civil War era.

Tannery site

Confederate field hospital site

            A second trail leading out of Williams Hollow can normally be used to form a loop, but it was closed due to erosion problems on my visit.  Thus, I had to retrace my steps first to Elkhorn Tavern and then to East Overlook to complete my hike.  While you are here, be sure to check out all of the stops on the auto tour road to get a good feel for the battle, and maybe try some of the park's many other shorter trails to round out your visit to Pea Ridge.

Buffalo National River: River View/Rock Wall Loop at Tyler Bend (Blog Hike #845)

Trails: River View, Buffalo River, and Rock Wall Trails

Hike Location: Buffalo National River, Tyler Bend Visitor Center
Geographic Location: northwest of Marshall, AR (35.98591, -92.76197)
Length: 4.2 miles
Difficulty: 6/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2021
Overview: A loop hike, mostly rolling but with a couple of steep areas, featuring Buffalo River's natural scenery and human history.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/buff/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=872330
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From Marshall, take US 65 north 9.4 miles to the signed entrance for Buffalo National River's Tyler Bend Area on the left.  Turn left to enter the area, and drive the area's main road downhill 2.3 miles to the Tyler Bend Visitor Center on the left.  Park in the lot beside the Visitor Center.

The hike: Flowing for 153 miles from west to east across northwest Arkansas, the Buffalo River is one of the longest free-flowing/undammed rivers in the contiguous 48 states.  Much of the river is lined with 500-foot tall rock bluffs and cozy cliff-lined hollows, but the rugged topography did not prevent human settlement along the river.  In fact, archaeological evidence indicates people have lived along the river for 10,000 years, and small subsistence farms covered the riverside lowlands after European settlement.

            During the mid 1900's, several plans were made to dam the river, but in 1972 those plans came to an end with the creation of the Buffalo National River, the nation's first national river, by an act of Congress.  Buffalo National River protects the river's lower 135 miles, and many of the area's most scenic sites are contained within its boundaries.  The national river offers many recreation opportunities including whitewater rafting, camping, fishing, and of course hiking.

            For hikers, one of the national river's better frontcountry hiking options is found at the Tyler Bend Visitor Center, which offers a nearby developed campground and access to several trails.  The trail system at Tyler Bend features 5 different trails, including the Buffalo River Trail, a 37-mile backpacking trail that is one of the best backpacking trails in Arkansas.  The route described here forms the longest loop through Tyler Bend's trail system, and it samples both the scenic and historic sites Buffalo National River has to offer.

Start of Riverview Trail

            The hike starts at the parking loop to the left (west) of the Visitor Center, where the signed Riverview Trail begins.  The somewhat narrow trail descends slightly as it heads southwest along the perimeter of the Buffalo River's floodplain.  The river remains out of sight across the grassy area to the right, and the forest here is young with a dense green understory that includes some poison ivy you need to watch out for.  Wooden bridges carry you over small side streams, which were dry on my visit.

Hiking beside the river floodplain

            At 0.4 miles, just as the river comes within sight on the right, the trail curves left and begins heading up a side ravine.  The river's side ravines have steep walls and rocky streams, and you head up two of them before switchbacking to the right and climbing the back side of a larger riverside bluff.  At 0.8 miles, you crest the bluff and reach an unofficial overlook of the Buffalo River.  This point stands about 150 vertical feet above the river, and I could see numerous rafters taking a break on the sandy river banks below.

View from first Buffalo River overlook

            After heading further up the bluff for a few hundred feet, you reach a signed trail intersection where the Return Trail exits left.  Angle right to remain on the Riverview Trail.  The grade intensifies until, 1 mile into the hike, you reach a developed overlook.  The overlook stands above Arnold Bend, a sharp northward curve in the river that features wide and fertile bottomlands.  The bend is named for the family of William Arnold, who farmed these bottomlands throughout the mid and late 1800's.  This overlook provides this hike's best Buffalo River view, so take some time to see what you can see.

Buffalo River view at Arnold Bend

            Past the overlook, the trail assumes a wide and flat treadway as it heads directly away from the river.  At 1.3 miles, you reach the rustic Sod Collier Homestead, which consists of a house, fence, and shed.  Built in 1928 by Solomon "Sod" Collier, an immigrant from Kentucky, the log house with metal roof reminds me of similar structures I have seen from the early 1900's in Kentucky and Tennessee.  Take some time to observe the homestead and read the interpretive signs that describe the Collier's way of life.

Collier Homestead

            The Buffalo River Trail enters from the right just before you reach the gravel parking lot that serves the Collier Homestead, where the Riverview Trail ends.  To continue this hike, walk through the parking lot and head eastbound on the Buffalo River Trail, which is marked with white rectangular paint blazes.  The Buffalo River Trail crosses the main park road before embarking on a fairly level course on the north side of the park road's ridge.  The soil is quite rocky here, and the many small rocks in the trail make for tricky footing.  Some large oak trees live along this ridge, but the rocky soil and nearby park road make this part of the hike rather uninspiring.

Hiking the Buffalo River Trail

            Ignore the Spring Hollow and Buck Ridge Trails that exit left; they offer opportunities to shortcut this hike.  After curving left to pass over a finger ridge, the trail descends moderately to reach a signed intersection with the Rockwall Trail at 2.9 miles.  Turn left to begin the Rockwall Trail; the Buffalo River Trail continues straight and heads out of the park.

            Narrow and rocky, the Rockwall Trail crosses back up and over the finger ridge before beginning a moderate to steep descent using a single switchback.  Upon reaching the bottom of the ravine, you rockhop the watercourse, which was dry on my visit, and begin heading downstream.  At 3.4 miles, the trail exits the mouth of the ravine and curves left to begin following the rock wall for which this trail is named.  The wall is about 4 feet high, and while I could not find any information about this specific wall, it appears to be of the type that were constructed beside farm fields 150 years ago.

Rock wall along Rockwall Trail

            3.8 miles into the hike, the Rockwall Trail ends where it comes out at the campground access road.  To find the last segment of this hike, angle first left on the road and then right to begin following the left (west) arm of the developed Tyler Bend Campground loop.  The trail going back to the Visitor Center is marked only by a small wooden sign that says "Visitor Center," and it begins on the left just before you reach campsite #24.

Start of final trail segment

            The wide dirt trail heads moderately uphill through a forest of red cedar trees.  After crossing the paved park road that accesses the picnic area and canoe launch, the trail comes out at the east end of the Tyler Bend Visitor Center, thus marking the end of the hike.  While you are here, be sure to check out the Visitor Center, which offers interesting exhibits on the Buffalo River's human and natural history.

Ozark National Forest: Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area (Blog Hike #844)

Trail: Alum Cove National Recreation Trail

Hike Location: Ozark National Forest, Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area
Geographic Location: southwest of Jasper, AR (35.86000,-93.23290)
Length: 1.3 miles
Difficulty: 5/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: May 2021
Overview: A short but steep lollipop loop passing several natural bridges.
Area Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/osfnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=43423&actid=50
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=943693
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of SR 16 and SR 7 south of Jasper, take SR 16 west 1.1 miles to an unmarked paved road that exits right; turn right here.  Drive the unmarked road north 3.1 miles to the signed entrance for Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area on the right.  Turn right to enter the area, and park in the parking lot for the picnic area.  The trail starts to the west (downhill) at the rear of the picnic area.

The hike: For my introductory comments on Ozark National Forest, see the previous hike.  Whereas the previous hike led to Glory Hole, possibly the Ozarks' most famous waterfall, this hike tours Alum Cove, which is probably the Ozarks' most famous collection of natural bridges.  These two short hikes are located less than 15 miles apart, so doing them both in one day as I did gives a fantastic overview of some of the best scenery Ozark National Forest has to offer.

Trailhead at picnic area

            The hike starts at a wooden information kiosk located at the bottom west end of the picnic area.  The trail immediately begins descending, using two switchbacks to ease the grade.  Oak and hickory trees dominate the ridgetop forest, and plenty of benches provide rest for the weary and winded.

            At 0.2 miles, you reach the top of the south side of Alum Cove Natural Bridge, where the trail splits to form its loop.  To make the climb back up a little easier, I chose to continue straight across the top of the bridge now and use the trail going left as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.  Only a few feet separate the rock of Alum Cove Natural Bridge from the vertical rock bluff, and you will get a better view of this bridge from below near the end of the hike.  A wooden fence with stone posts protects you from falling off of the bridge.

Top of Alum Cove Natural Bridge

            After crossing the bridge, the trail curves left and continues descending via more switchbacks.  Ignore a side trail that exits left and heads directly to the base of Alum Cove Natural Bridge.  At 0.45 miles, you reach the bottom of Alum Cove and cross a creek using a pair of wooden planks.  This crossing marks the lowest elevation of this hike, and it is about 260 vertical feet below the picnic area.  Some large beech trees living down here add to this cove's scenery.

Crossing creek at bottom of cove

            The trail switchbacks up the west side of Alum Cove via some stone steps before the grade eases and the trail assumes a more rolling course.  Just past 0.6 miles, you reach a truly spectacular rock bluff line.  This quartz sandstone cliff is filled with rock shelters, natural arches of many shapes and sizes, small caves, and even a couple of wet-weather waterfalls.  I walked slowly along this bluff and enjoyed the many sights to be seen.

Bench under natural arch

Natural window in cliff line

            At 0.7 miles, you reach the end of the bluff where the trail curves sharply left and heads steeply downhill to recross the creek at the bottom of Alum Cove.  This far up the cove, the creek is shallow enough that it can be rock-hopped in times of normal flow.  Next the climb back to the trailhead continues, and at 0.9 miles you reach the base-view of Alum Cove Natural Bridge.  At 130 feet long and 20 feet wide, this bridge is the largest and tallest bridge in this cove.  Yet part of me prefers the intricate collection of natural bridges on the other side of the cove over this stand-alone feature.

Alum Cove Natural Bridge

            The trail climbs steeply around the south side of Alum Cove Natural Bridge via a single switchback to reach the top of the bridge and close the loop.  Retracing your steps back up the last two switchbacks returns you to the picnic area to complete the hike.  While you are here, you may as well bring a snack to eat or a book to read and enjoy this rustic and remote picnic area, which I shared with only a couple of other people when I came here on a nice mid-May afternoon.