Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park: Downstream from McMahon's Mill (Blog Hike #956)

Trail: Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath
Hike Location: Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park, McMahon's Mill
Geographic Location: downstream from Williamsport, MD (39.53085, -77.82433)
Length: 4.2 miles
Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: An out-and-back on an old canal towpath along the Potomac River.
Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/choh/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946348
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: In western Maryland, take I-81 to SR 63 (exit 1).  Exit and go south on SR 63.  Drive SR 63 south 3 miles to Dam #4 Road and turn right on Dam #4 Rd.  Drive Dam #4 Rd. south 0.8 miles to Dellinger Road and turn right on Dellinger Rd.  Drive Dellinger Rd. west 0.5 miles to Avis Mill Road and turn left on Avis Mill Rd.  Avis Mill Rd. deadends at the McMahon's Mill Recreation Area, where this hike begins.

The hike: Stretching for 184.5 miles, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal provided waterway transportation along the Potomac River between Georgetown, Washington D.C. and Cumberland, Maryland.  Construction of the canal began in 1828, but the canal did not reach Cumberland until 1850, which was 8 years after the famous Baltimore and Ohio Railroad reached Cumberland.  The canal's name came from a planned westward extension over the Allegheny Mountains and down the Youghiogheny and Monongahela Rivers to the Ohio River at Pittsburgh, PA.  That extension was never built due to cost and the railroad.

            Despite its relatively late construction, the canal proved useful for transporting coal downriver from Pennsylvania and West Virginia coal fields to Washington and the eastern seaboard.  The canal operated until 1924, when a major flood damaged the canal and forced it to close.  The federal government purchased the damaged canal remnants in 1938, and in 1961 President Eisenhower created a national monument to preserve what remained of the canal structures.

            Today Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park is the most visited national historical park in the national park system.  The canal's towpath was converted to a bike path by 1960, and primitive campgrounds located at regular intervals allow bikers and hikers to travel the towpath's full length.  One of the towpath's more interesting and scenic sections is the portion immediately downstream from McMahon's Mill along a deep and broad section of the Potomac known as the Slackwaters.  Such is the portion of the bike path described here.

McMahon's Mill trailhead

            Start by walking around the red barn-like structure at the rear of the parking lot, heading for the Potomac River.  The wooden barn-like structure is actually the old McMahon's Mill, which generated electricity until 1922 when it was damaged by a flood.  The other side of the building features the old mill wheel, and more stone structures related to the old mill stand between the wooden structure and the river.  Take some time to examine these structures, read the interpretive signs, and imagine what this area might have been like in the early 1900's.

Stone mill structures

            When you get to the river, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath Trail goes left and right.  Turn left to begin heading downstream with the Potomac River on your right.  Almost immediately you pass mile marker 88; the Towpath Trail has distance markers at 1 mile increments.  The Potomac River is broad and calm here, thus earning this area the name Slackwaters.  Fantastic views open up across the river into West Virginia.

Potomac River

            At only 0.2 miles, you reach the first of many concrete walkways that elevate the Towpath Trail over the edge of the river.  These walkways are necessary because vertical sandstone cliffs come almost to the river's edge on the left, thus leaving insufficient room for a bike path to get through.  The combination of rock and water makes the Slackwaters a very scenic area.

Elevated concrete walkways

            For the next 1.4 miles the trail surface alternates between raised concrete walkways and a gravel path.  The trail never strays more than a few feet from the Potomac, so any elevation changes are imperceptible.  Just shy of 1.5 miles, you cross the last raised concrete walkway.  Now the trail adopts a more traditional towpath appearance with a gravel trail surface.  Plenty of black walnut trees and some maple trees populate the riverside area, and lots of honeysuckle crowds the understory.

Towpath Trail below the Slackwaters

            Just past 2 miles into the hike, you reach mile marker 86.  Thus far one thing has been noteworthy in its absence from this canal towpath trail: a canal!  Along this part of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal the boats were transported in the river itself, but in less than another 0.5 miles the old (separate) canal waterway reappears on the left.  The trail continues for another 86 miles, so you will need to turn around at some point.  The reappearance of the old canal is as good of a point as any.  Enjoy each Potomac River view one more time as you retrace your steps to McMahon's Mill to complete the hike.

Swallow Falls State Park: Swallow Falls Canyon Trail (Blog Hike #778)

Trails: Swallow Falls Canyon Trail

Hike Location: Swallow Falls State Park

Geographic Location: north of Oakland, MD (39.49893, -79.41852)

Length: 1.1 miles

Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: October 2019

Overview: A short loop passing 4 major waterfalls.

Park Information: https://dnr.maryland.gov/publiclands/Pages/western/swallowfalls.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=943240

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Oakland, take US 219 north 7 miles to Mayhew Inn Road.  Alternatively, reach Mayhew Inn Rd. by taking SR 42 and/or US 219 south 19 miles from I-68, exits 4 and 11 respectively.  Turn west on Mayhew Inn Rd.  Drive Mayhew Inn Rd. west 4.5 miles to its end at Oakland Sang Road.  Turn left on Oakland Sang Rd. and drive Oakland Sang Rd. 0.3 miles to Swallow Falls Road.  Turn right on Swallow Falls Rd.  Drive Swallow Falls Rd. west 1.2 miles to the state park entrance on the right, which is reached just after crossing a rickety one lane bridge over the Youghiogheny River.  Turn right to enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and park in the blacktop trailhead parking lot on the right 0.4 miles from the park entrance.

The hike: If you want national park-level scenery without national park prices or (maybe) national park crowds, then perhaps a visit to rural western Maryland’s Swallow Falls State Park is in order.  The narrow, winding roads that lead to the park testify to the park’s remote location, which reduces but not eliminates the crowds.  The park’s location on the Youghiogheny River, one of the region’s most scenic waterways, provides the national park level scenery.  On point, the 257 acre park contains virgin forest and four noteworthy waterfalls, all of which are seen on this hike.

            The land’s history as parkland dates to 1906, when John and Robert Garrett donated 1917 acres to the State of Maryland.  The park gained notoriety in 1918 when Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, Harvey Firestone, John Burroughs and company camped near Muddy Creek Falls, the tallest of the park’s four waterfalls.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked here in the 1930’s, and they built trails and buildings that are still in use.  The park today features a 65-site developed campground, a picnic pavilion, and a small Visitor Center for amenities.

            For hikers, Swallow Falls State Park is the northern trailhead for a 5.5 mile trail that connects this park with nearby Herrington Manor State Park.  The only trail contained within the boundaries of Swallow Falls State Park is the 1.1 mile Swallow Falls Canyon Trail, but it is a good one that passes all four waterfalls and takes you through the virgin forest.  Such is the trail described here.

Portal at start of Swallow Falls Canyon Trail

            From the Visitor Center, walk across the parking lot and through the iron portal with wooden lintel that is the signed start of the Swallow Falls Canyon Trail.  Almost immediately you enter the virgin forest, and an interpretive sign tells you that this area is called the Youghiogheny Grove.  This stand of white pines and hemlocks contains trees that are more than 300 years old, and it is the last forest of its kind in Maryland.

Entering the Youghiogheny Grove

            After only a couple hundred feet, the trail forks to form its loop.  To save the best waterfall for last, I decided to turn right here and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.  The wide gravel trail heads south over flat to descending terrain, and the park entrance road comes within sight through the trees to the right.

            Ignore a set of wooden steps that exits downhill to the left and continue heading south.  Soon the descent steepens, and a somewhat rocky and rooty course brings you to the base of Tolliver Falls, the first and probably least impressive of the four waterfalls on this hike.  At less than 10 feet in height, Tolliver Falls is a typical ledge-type waterfall, but it features an attractive plunge pool and rhododendron-filled surroundings.

Tolliver Falls

            The trail heads downstream from Tolliver Falls and soon reaches the west bank of the Youghiogheny River, a whitewater river known locally as “the Yahk.”  You may be able to see (or hear) the rickety one-lane bridge you drove over to get to the park; it crosses the river just upstream from here.  Now following the Yahk downstream, at 0.4 miles you reach Upper Swallow Falls.  Upper Swallow Falls is a 20-foot cascade-type waterfall, and the Yahk provides plenty of water to fall.  The first viewpoint provides a side view of the waterfall and views downstream, but a second viewpoint gives a postcard view from below the waterfall.

Upper Swallow Falls

            Where you reach the bottom of the wooden steps you passed the top of earlier, turn right to continue heading downstream beside the Yahk.  Near 0.6 miles, you reach Lower Swallow Falls.  Another river waterfall, Lower Swallow Falls is a 10-foot ledge-type waterfall, and an overlook area provides a close-up side view of the waterfall.

Lower Swallow Falls

            The trail continues downstream and passes below some rock cliffs and rock shelters on the left.  Next the trail curves left to leave the Yahk and head up the side ravine that contains Muddy Creek.  At 0.9 miles, you reach 53-foot Muddy Creek Falls, the tallest single-drop waterfall in Maryland.  A rocky ledge just below the waterfall provides the best view, but some landing areas built into the wooden staircase that lifts you to the top of the falls also provide nice views.  The view from the top of the waterfall looking down toward the Yahk is not bad either, and some benches near the top encourage you to rest after climbing the stairs and take in the scenery.

Muddy Creek Falls

            The top of Muddy Creek Falls is the other end of the wide gravel trail you started on, so a mostly flat course on wide trail through virgin forest is what remains.  A small parking lot provides handicapped access to the top of Muddy Creek Falls.  After closing the loop, turn right on the entrance trail to return to the parking lot and complete the hike.

Piscataway Park: Riverview, Bluebird, and Paw Paw Trails (Blog Hike #687)

Trails: Riverview, Bluebird, and Paw Paw Trails

Hike Location: Piscataway Park

Geographic Location: south of Fort Washington, MD (38.69455, -77.06531)

Length: 2.1 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: May 2018

Overview: A loop hike around a recreated 1770’s-era colonial farm.

Park Information: https://www.nps.gov/pisc/index.htm

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=689885
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the south side of Washington D.C., take I-495 to Maryland SR 210 (exit 3).  Exit and go south on SR 210.  Drive SR 210 south 8 miles to Farmington Road and turn right on Farmington Rd.  Drive Farmington Rd. southwest 1.8 miles to Bryan Point Road and turn right on Bryan Point Rd.  Bryan Point Rd. deadends at Piscataway Park in 2.7 miles.  Follow signs to the Visitor Center, and park in the gravel lot in front of the Visitor Center.

The hike: Perched on the east bank of the Potomac River just south of Washington, little-known Piscataway Park exists partly due to its location across the Potomac from Mount Vernon, George Washington’s famous residence.  In the 1950’s, local residents became concerned that encroaching development was threatening Mount Vernon’s famous view of the Potomac River.  To ensure the view remained as natural and historic as possible, in 1961 the federal government established Piscataway Park to preserve the 6 miles of riverfront property between Piscataway Creek and Marshall Hall in its natural state.

            Operated by the National Park Service in partnership with the Accokeek Foundation, Piscataway Park is also the home of the National Colonial Farm, which was established in 1957 to recreate a typical 1770’s tobacco plantation.  Located adjacent to the Visitor Center, farm tours are offered several times per day.  Perhaps surprisingly, very few people come to Piscataway Park or the colonial farm, so this site is a great hiking destination for warm-weather weekends when other D.C. area parks are packed out.  During my visit on a nice Sunday afternoon in mid-May, I did not pass another person on this hike once I got out of the Visitor Center area.

            Piscataway Park offers nearly 5 miles of trails open only to hikers with loops on both the west and east sides of the Visitor Center.  When I came here the day after a heavy rain, the trails east of the Visitor Center were impassible due to mud and high water.  Thus, this hike forms a loop using the trails west of the Visitor Center, which includes a trip through the colonial farm.

Mount Vernon across the Potomac

            The hike starts on the blue-blazed Riverview Trail.  Despite this trail’s name, the best Potomac River view on this hike is actually from the fishing pier behind the Visitor Center.  Thus, before heading out on the trail, take a minute to walk out the fishing pier and look across the Potomac at Mount Vernon atop the hill on the opposite bank.

Start of Riverview Trail

            After taking in the river view, walk back toward the Visitor Center and turn right to find the signed trailhead for the Riverview Trail.  The grassy Riverview Trail heads west through a narrow strip of natural area between the colonial farm on your left and the forested riverside buffer on your right.  Many interpretive signs tell about the area’s flora and fauna, and one interesting sign tells about what the natural buffer along the river does and how it works.

            At 0.35 miles, you reach the western edge of the colonial farm.  Follow the blue paint blazes as they turn left and then right to leave the developed farm area.  A large black rat snake slithered across my path here, and I had to negotiate many wet spots in this area.

Leaving the developed farm area

Just past 0.6 miles, the orange-blazed Persimmon Trail exits left twice in quick succession.  The Persimmon Trail forms a short 0.4 mile loop around a small pond, and it could be tacked on if you wanted to extend the hike.  This description angles right to stay on the Riverview Trail.

0.8 miles into the hike, you reach the west end of the Riverview Trail and its intersection with the Bluebird Trail, which goes left and softly right.  Angle softly right to continue heading east.  The blazes for the Bluebird Trail are only a slightly lighter shade of blue than the blazes for the Riverview Trail, so you may not notice that you have changed trails unless you are paying attention.

Picnic table on Bluebird Trail

The Bluebird Trail is somewhat poorly defined, but if you keep heading east parallel to the river you will soon reach a picnic table in a grassy area near the park’s east boundary.  Unfortunately, like most of the trail system the picnic table offers no river view.  Upon reaching the picnic table, backtrack a short distance to where the east arm of the Bluebird Trail heads south away from the river beside a pasture that is reverting to forest.

Reverting pasture on Bluebird Trail

Start of Paw Paw Trail

At 1.1 miles, you reach the southwest corner of the Bluebird Trail’s loop.  To see all of the park’s habitats, angle right to begin the white-blazed Paw Paw Trail, which is marked with a white sign.  The Paw Paw Trail leaves the Potomac River floodplain and climbs steeply but only for a short distance into the broadleaf forest that dominates the bluffs.  Numerous paw paw bushes, identified by their large leaves, line the trail, as does poison ivy and stinging nettle.

The trail comes very close to private property as it approaches the blufftop before angling left to begin descending.  At 1.5 miles, you exit the forest and enter the park’s native tree arboretum, a grassy area that, as its name implies, features numerous trees that are native to the region.  Angle right to reach a gravel road, then head north on the gravel road.  When you reach the park office, turn left onto another gravel road to return to the colonial farm.  The hike concludes with a walk through the farm, which includes a tobacco barn, a smoke house, some cultivated vegetable gardens, a pig pen, and a sheep pasture.  The gravel road through the farm deposits you at the Visitor Center where you started.

Tobacco barn at National Colonial Farm

Marsh boardwalk

Before you leave Piscataway Park, there is one more short hike you should do.  Though not accessible by trail from the Visitor Center, the park features a nice marsh boardwalk that offers good wildlife viewing and runs along the bank of the Potomac River.  To reach the boardwalk, drive back out the entrance road and turn left on a gravel road immediately before reaching the park entrance sign.  Quickly you reach the small parking lot that serves the boardwalk.  The wooden boardwalk leads 0.5 miles over a riverside marsh to a grassy camping area that also serves as a canoe launch.  Enjoy the aquatic view and fresh breeze to end your visit to Piscataway Park.

Smallwood State Park: General's Walk Trail (Blog Hike #686)

Trail: General’s Walk Trail

Hike Location: Smallwood State Park

Geographic Location: southwest of Waldorf, MD (38.55846, -77.18813)

Length: 2.2 miles

Difficulty: 3/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: May 2018

Overview: A lollipop loop passing General Smallwood’s historic Retreat House.

Park Information: http://dnr.maryland.gov/publiclands/pages/southern/smallwood.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=943242
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the south side of Washington, D.C., take I-495 to Maryland SR 210 (exit 3).  Exit and go south on SR 210.  Drive SR 210 south 18 miles to SR 225 and turn left on SR 225.  Drive SR 225 east 1.6 miles to SR 224 and turn right on SR 224.  Drive SR 224 south 3.8 miles to the signed park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, pay the entrance fee, and follow signs for the boat ramp, where this hike begins.  Park in any of the lots near the boat ramp.

The hike: Established in 1958, cozy Smallwood State Park protects 628 acres on the south bank of Mattawoman Creek just before it empties into the Potomac River.  The park is named for General William Smallwood, a Patriot Revolutionary War major general from Maryland who later served as Maryland’s 4^th Governor.  General Smallwood’s Retreat House and grave lie within the park’s boundaries, and they will be seen on this hike.

            The park makes the most of its waterside location, as it features the Sweden Point Marina, numerous fishing piers, and some boat launch ramps.  The park also offers a small campground with 15 campsites and 5 mini cabins, 3 picnic pavilions, a playground, and two short hiking trails.  The park’s longest and best hiking trail is the General’s Walk Trail described here.  The General’s Walk Trail takes you through some nice woods as it connects the boat ramp, the campground, the park office, and the historic Retreat House area, and it makes a nice shady hike on a warm summer day.  (Aside: the trail map available for download on the park’s website is far better and more detailed than the trail map you will get at the park entrance station, so be sure to download or print a trail map before you come.)

Bridge at boat ramp

            There are several places from which you could start the General’s Walk Trail, but I chose to start at the boat ramp.  Look for a wooden bridge that is located at the boat ramp area’s south side and heads over an inlet of Mattawoman Creek.  Mattawoman Creek looks more like a river at this point, and although the bridge looks old, it got me safely over the water.

Mattawoman Creek, as seen from bridge

Trail sign at campground

            Upon reaching the south side of the bridge, climb slightly on a paved path to reach the asphalt campground road, then look up and slightly right for a green wooden sign that says “General’s Walk Foot Trail.”  The single track dirt trail heads into the woods here and descends slightly to reach the bank of an unnamed creek/wetland that features a lot of trees and shrubs.  Several bird boxes have been built over the water, and I saw a family of Canada geese enjoying a humid day on the shady water.

            On my mid-May hike, I passed a stand of mountain laurel in full bloom, though it looked out of place beside the wetland.  Just past 0.5 miles, you reach a trail fork.  The left option is a spur trail that leads to a picnic shelter, so you want to stay right to continue along the wetland.  The General’s Walk Trail is marked by some white rectangular paint blazes, but there may not be a blaze at the exact point where you need one.

Climbing away from the creek

            After passing a bench along the creek, the trail angles left and begins a short but steep climb, gaining 100 feet of elevation in just over 0.1 miles.  Some wooden steps aid the ascent.  At 0.9 miles, you reach the top of the hill and enter the park’s historic area, a mowed-grass area dominated by the brick Retreat House.  The Retreat House is a restored 18^th century tidewater plantation that is only open the first and third Sunday afternoons from May through September.  Even if the house is not open on your visit (it was not on mine), you can admire the structure from the outside and peep in to the adjacent herb garden.

General Smallwood's Retreat House

            Pass around the right side of the Retreat House and start following a brick path as it heads southeast away from the house.  Some other small structures are located on this site, but the brick path leads to the other large structure: the black wooden tobacco barn.  Walk around the barn and cross the nearby park road to reach a parking lot for the park’s playground and picnic pavilion #3.  Another green wooden sign similar to the one you saw at the campground marks where the trail reenters the woods.

Tobacco Barn

            Next you start my favorite part of this hike, which features some nice beech trees and some sweet gums.  After a gradual descent, the trail curves sharply left to rise slightly.  At 1.4 miles, you reach the park maintenance area and park office.  Angle right, cross the park road, and then angle left into the grassy area beside the park office to find where the trail reenters the woods again.

            Some wet areas will need to be negotiated as you pass some old wooden structures that time and the forest have reclaimed.  After dipping through a small but steep ravine, the trail comes out at the campground road.  Turn right and walk along the road to close the loop, then turn right again and walk back across the wooden bridge to return to the boat ramp and complete the hike.

Cunningham Falls State Park: Lower and Cliff Trails (Blog Hike #439)

Trails: Lower and Cliff Trails

Hike Location: Cunningham Falls State Park

Geographic Location: west of Thurmont, MD (39.62758, -77.46389)

Length: 1.25 mile

Difficulty: 2/10 for Lower Trail; 9/10 for Cliff Trail (Easy/Difficult)

Date Hiked: July 2013

Overview: Two trails, one easy and one difficult, to the tallest waterfall in Maryland.

Park Information: http://dnr.maryland.gov/publiclands/pages/western/cunningham.aspx

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=725592
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From the intersection of US 15 and SR 77 in Thurmont, drive SR 77 west 2.7 miles to Catoctin Hollow Road; a state park sign marks this intersection.  Turn left on Catoctin Hollow Rd.  Drive Catoctin Hollow Rd. 1.3 miles to the park entrance station on the right.  Turn right to enter the park.  Drive the main park road 0.6 miles to the signed trailhead parking on the left, where you should park.  If this lot is full, you can park at the larger and nearby beach parking area and walk to the trailhead.

The hike: The history of Cunningham Falls State Park is inextricably tied to the federally owned and maintained Catoctin Mountain Park directly to its north.  In 1936, the federal government purchased 10,000 acres in the area to form the depression-era Catoctin Recreation Demonstration Area.  Other depression-era federal agencies including the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) spent time here, building many of the structures you see today.

            In 1954, the land was divided with the federal government keeping the 5000 acres north of SR 77 and the state of Maryland regaining the 5000 acres south of SR 77.  The federal piece forms Catoctin Mountain Park, while the state’s piece forms Cunningham Falls State Park.  The state park consists of two areas: the Houck Area accessible from SR 77 and the Manor Area accessible from US 15.  The park’s namesake Cunningham Falls, the tallest waterfall in Maryland, remains the centerpiece of the park; it is located in the Houck Area.

            Many hiking trails go through the Houck Area, but only two of them lead to the waterfall.  The 0.5 mile Lower Trail offers an easy/moderate firmly packed gravel route to the falls, while the 0.75 mile Cliff Trail offers a more difficult and rocky route that gains about 200 additional feet of elevation.  To obtain maximum variety, this hike will go out on the Lower Trail and return on the Cliff Trail.

Trailhead for Lower Trail

            Starting at the trailhead parking area, pick up the wide gravel Lower Trail, which is blazed with plastic red right triangles.  For its entire distance the trail travels through magnificent mature maple/beech forest with a grassy understory layer.  Interpretive signs describe the surroundings.  Most noteworthy among the surroundings are the large number of greenstone rock outcrops.  Greenstone is igneous rock spewed out by ancient volcanoes.  This rock dates to the formation of the Appalachian Mountains, and it is among the oldest exposed rock in the world.

            The trail climbs in fits and starts on a gradual to moderate grade with an occasional descent in between the climbs.  The trail surface is good enough to support a wheelchair, but some of the grades are much too steep.  At 0.5 miles, you reach a wooden platform at the base of Cunningham Falls.  The falls stand 78 feet high as a moderate flow of water in an unnamed creek tumbles over several ledges of rock.  Unfortunately the viewing platform is located behind some trees that prevent a completely clear view, and large boulders around the platform make getting around the trees difficult.  Many people attempt the boulder-hopping anyway, but be aware of the risk if you choose this option.

Cunningham Falls

            If all you want to do is view the falls, then the easiest route back to the trailhead is to return the way you came.  To increase the scenery and the difficulty, backtrack a short distance and turn right to leave the gravel and begin the Cliff Trail, which is blazed with plastic yellow right triangles.  The Cliff Trail is very rocky, but except for two brief sections that pass through breaks in cliffs, the grade is quite manageable.  On the other hand, the two bits through the cliffs may require use of hands depending on your flexibility and fitness level.

Rocky Cliff Trail

            0.75 miles into the hike, the Cliff Trail reaches its highest point as it intersects the blue-blazed Catoctin Trail, which goes right and left.  The Cliff Trail turns left here as it heads southeast.  For the next 0.25 miles the Cliff and Catoctin Trails share a treadway with the steep hillside falling to the left.  After the rocky climb, the nearly flat single-track dirt trail seems like a breeze.

Cabin-sized boulder beside trail

            At 1 mile, the Cliff Trail continues straight where the Catoctin Trail turns right.  Watch for the yellow blazes and a wooden post to make sure you do not miss this turn.  The last 0.25 miles of the Cliff Trail comprise a steep descent over a large number of logs that serve as waterbars.  Cabin-sized boulders sit beside the trail, and I felt very glad I was descending rather than ascending.  The trailhead and parking area lie at the bottom of the hill, thus signaling the end of the hike.

Adkins Arboretum (Blog Hike #346)

Trails: Upland, Tuckahoe Creekside, and Blockston Branch Walks

Hike Location: Adkins Arboretum

Geographic Location: northwest of Denton, MD (38.95330, -75.93310)

Length: 1.6 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: May 2011

Overview: A lollipop loop hike on wide trail with good nature interpretation.

Arboretum Information: http://www.adkinsarboretum.org/
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=723543
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the eastern shore, take SR 404 to SR 480, which is 6 miles east of US 50 or 6 miles west of Denton.  Go north on SR 480.  Take SR 480 only 0.2 miles to Eveland Road and turn left on Eveland Rd.  Take Eveland Rd. 2 miles to the main Arboretum entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the Arboretum, and park in the large Visitor’s Center parking lot.

The hike: “The state park that wasn’t” would be an appropriate summary of Adkins Arboretum’s history.  The arboretum was first proposed in 1972 as an extension of adjoining Tuckahoe State Park; it was to be the state arboretum of Maryland.  That plan fell through due to politics, but the arboretum itself did not.  Thanks to a generous gift by Leon Andrus, the privately operated arboretum opened in 1980.  The arboretum is named for the Adkins family, an Eastern Shore family who were avid conservationists and longtime friends of Andrus.

            In 1998, the arboretum entered into a 50-year lease agreement with the State of Maryland under which the arboretum would be managed by the Friends of Adkins Arboretum, a non-profit conservation group.  The arboretum today is not only a fine botanical collection but also a center for social gatherings and nature education.  The hike described here follows the arboretum’s most popular and scenic woodland trails.

Wooden bridge to Visitor Center

            From the parking lot, walk across the wooden bridge to the Visitor Center, where you must pay the arboretum entrance fee.  With the payment of the entrance fee, you will receive an audio device that serves as an interpretive guide.  Numbered signs throughout the arboretum correspond to tracks in the audio guide.  When you reach one of the signs, which are shaped like tulip-tree leaves, simply press the indicated number on the device to hear about the sign’s topic.  These interpretive tracks are some of the best I have ever encountered, and you should take full advantage of them, especially since they come free with admission.

Main entrance trail at Adkins Arboretum

            After passing through the Visitor Center, turn right on a wide gravel path that heads through a meadow, passing posts #1 and #2 along the way.  At the second trail intersection, take a soft right to leave the meadow and enter the woods.  A plaque commemorating Mr. Andrus’ generosity is located at this intersection.

            The trail drops to cross Blockston Branch on a wooden footbridge.  Several posts tell of the creekside environment.  After crossing the branch, stay right to begin the Upland Walk, which rises gently through mature forest.  Note that the Blockston Branch Walk heads left here and will be our return route.  More posts tell of the upland environment, and benches scattered throughout the arboretum allow for ample opportunity to rest, if needed.

Upland Walk

            At the next major trail intersection, continue straight to cross Blockston Branch again on another wooden footbridge.  At 0.5 miles, turn right to begin the Tuckahoe Creekside Walk.  This trail is the narrowest trail you have traversed yet on this hike, but it is wide compared to trails at other parks.  Tuckahoe Creek is much larger than Blockston Branch, and rhododendron grows in abundance near the creek.

Beginning of Tuckahoe Creekside Walk

            The trail parallels the creek for 0.2 miles before angling left to return inland.  Where the Tuckahoe Creekside Walk ends, turn left to return to the wide gravel trails.  Turning right here would lead you out of the arboretum on the South Tuckahoe Valley Trail.  Turn left and right at the next two intersections to head for Blockston Overlook.  Although this point is high above Blockston Branch, the dense forest precludes much of a view.

Bridge over Blockston Branch

            After traversing a sharp left curve and crossing the branch on yet another wooden bridge, turn right to begin the Blockston Branch Walk.  The mulch trail leads right along the bank of the small tan-colored branch, parts of which are lined with dense colonies of mayapple.  The Blockston Branch Walk ends at the Upland Walk, thus closing the loop portion of this hike.  Retrace your steps back to the Visitor Center, or explore some of the other parts of the arboretum if time and energy allow.

Antietam National Battlefield: Union Advance Trail (Blog Hike #306)

Trail: Union Advance Trail

Hike Location: Antietam National Battlefield

Geographic Location: Sharpsburg, MD (39.44956, -77.73252)

Length: 1.1 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Dates Hiked: May 2010, July 2013, October 2024

Overview: An historical hike featuring the famous Burnside Bridge.

Battlefield Information: http://www.nps.gov/anti/index.htm
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=722598
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: In west-central Maryland, take I-70 to SR 65 (exit 29).  Exit and go south on SR 65.  Take SR 65 10 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park.  Stop in the Visitor Center, pay the entrance fee, and begin the Tour Road.  The hike begins at stop #9 on the Tour Road.

The hike: September 17, 1862: the bloodiest day of the American Civil War.  The site was Sharpsburg, MD, a small farm town just 4 miles from the Virginia border.  In an attempt to win a meaningful battle on Union soil, earlier that month General Robert Lee had divided his already outnumbered Confederate troops into two parts.  He sent one part to Harpers Ferry, VA to capture the Union garrison stationed there; this would give Lee supply and communication lines back into Virginia.  The other part he sent north into Maryland.

On September 13, a Union soldier found a copy of Lee’s orders, which was promptly forwarded to Union General George McClellan.  Realizing he had the advantage, he chose to attack Lee’s forces while they were divided.  On September 14, McClellan marched his army west and fought his way over South Mountain east of Sharpsburg.  Lee almost chose to retreat to Virginia, but instead chose to make a stand at Antietam Creek just east of Sharpsburg.  The area made an ideal defensive location because it featured high ground with clear lines to shoot in any direction.

The battle that ensued was long and bloody.  Early action took place in East and West Woods as well as a cornfield.  The fighting in the cornfield was so intense it is now referred to simply as The Cornfield.  Later assaults came along Sunken Road (later renamed Bloody Lane for the number of casualties taken there) and the Lower Bridge across Antietam Creek.  The Lower Bridge would later be renamed the Burnside Bridge after Union General Ambrose Burnside who took control of the bridge, and that bridge would later become the iconic image of Antietam.

Both sides took heavy casualties in the battle, but the outnumbered Confederates would be forced to retreat into Virginia.  The Union army took so many casualties that it was unable to pursue Lee and perhaps end the Civil War.  Another two and one-half years of fighting and major battles such as Gettysburg, Vicksburg, and Chancellorsville would lie ahead before the Confederacy would finally surrender.

Today, the fields outside of Sharpsburg are preserved as Antietam National Battlefield.  The Visitor Center features a short documentary film, some ranger talks, and an observation lounge from which much of the battlefield can be seen.  A park driving tour and many short hiking trails take you past all of the major battlefield sites including the The Cornfield and Burnside Bridge.  In fact, the park tickets sold today bear the Burnside Bridge’s image.  On the mid-May morning when I visited Antietam, a light steady rain was falling, making hiking much less pleasant than usual.  To be honest, I chose to hike the Union Advance Trail described here partly because it features the famous Burnside Bridge but mainly because it is the shortest trail in the park.

View of Burnside Bridge from tour road stop #9

              The trail starts at stop #9 on the driving tour.  Begin on the left (east) side of the circular-shaped parking area.  An overlook here with interpretive signs gives a great view down at the Burnside Bridge some 50 feet below.  At this overlook, you are standing where the Confederate soldiers would have stood as they tried to prevent their Union counterparts from crossing the bridge.  With such clear sightlines and high relief, you can see why so many Union casualties were taken in their attempts to secure the bridge.

Paved trail from overlook

            Exit the overlook on the paved trail which heads gently downhill and crosses a small stream.  At the intersection after crossing the stream, turn left to continue descending more steeply to arrive at the west side of the bridge.  Turn right and cross the stone bridge.  Notice the wooden slats on the side of the bridge.  Most of these slats are not original: many of the original ones were used as grave-markers by Union soldiers to honor their fallen comrades.           

Crossing the Burnside Bridge

Burnside Bridge

            On the east side of the bridge, the Union Advance Trail goes left and right.  To hike the trail in the same order as described in the downloadable podcast, you should turn left here and use the right trail as the return route.  Stops on the podcast tour are marked with tall, beige, plastic posts.

The trail starts on a gravel trailbed, but that soon turns to mown grass.  The grass was not particularly tall on my visit, but it was tall enough and wet enough that my shoes and socks were soon dripping wet.  At 0.4 miles, the Sherrick Farm Trail exits to the left as our trail turns right and ascends moderately for a brief time, soon to top out just below the ridgeline.

Hiking the Union Advance Trail

            Most of this trail passes through open grassy areas, but a few short sections on this ridge dip into some young forest.  At 0.7 miles, you arrive at an opening in the forest which gives a great view of the bridge from the east side.  Now you are standing where the Union soldiers would have stood as they prepared to rush the bridge.  Think of how intimidating this view must have been with the Confederates dug into the steep hillside across the creek.

Past the opening the trail curves right and descends moderately to arrive back at creek level, passing a small memorial in the process.  Upon reaching the creek, the trail curves right and passes a USGS station used for monitoring water flow.  At 1 mile, you arrive back at the east side of the Burnside Bridge to close the loop.  Cross the bridge and retrace your steps back uphill to the parking lot to complete the hike.