Fort Bridger State Historic Site (Blog Hike #876)

Trail: (unnamed) 
Hike Location: Fort Bridger State Historic Site
Geographic Location: west side of Fort Bridger, WY (41.31828, -110.38935)
Length: 0.75 miles
Difficulty: 0/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: July 2021
Overview: A short, flat semiloop through the remnants of an 1800's fort.
Site Information: https://wyoparks.wyo.gov/index.php/places-to-go/fort-bridger
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=881527
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: In southwest Wyoming, take I-80 to Business Loop 80 (exit 34).  Exit and go east on Business Loop 80.  The entrance to Fort Bridger State Historic Site is 2 miles ahead on the right.  Park in the large parking lot just inside the entrance.

The hike: It was the fall of 1824 when James Felix Bridger first explored the Great Salt Lake region and the area we know today as Yellowstone National Park.  For the next 20 years Bridger would explore, trap, hunt, and blaze trails all over the American west, and he became known as an expert guide for American settlers who were moving west.  In 1843, Bridger established a trading post with light fortifications and a blacksmith shop along the Black Fork of the Green River on one of the main east-west routes through the region.  That trading post became known as Fort Bridger, and over the past 150 years every major route through the region including the Mormon Pioneer Trail, the Oregon Trail, the California Trail, the Pony Express, the Union Pacific Railroad, the Lincoln Highway, and even I-80 have passed through or near this post.

            In 1858, Fort Bridger became an official United States Army outpost to supply troops for the Utah War, and for the next three decades it continued to support federal operations in the region.  The fort was abandoned in 1890 when Wyoming became a state, and in 1928 the site was sold to the Historical Landmark Commission of Wyoming.  The site opened as a Wyoming Historical Landmark and Museum in 1933.

            Today the site's 27 historic structures, 4 historic replica structures, and 6 modern structures are preserved as Fort Bridger State Historic Site.  A statue of Jim Bridger greets visitors as they drive in the entrance, and volunteers provide costumed interpretation during the summer months.  The short hike described here takes you to every point of interest at the 37-acre site, and it provides a nice leg-stretch excursion with an historical flavor while driving I-80 across Wyoming.

Carter's Warehouse and Pony Express Barn

            After paying your entrance fee in the Post Trader's Store, walk north into a square of historic buildings with white sides that features Carter's Warehouse and the Pony Express Barn.  Interpretive signs tell about these buildings.  The Pony Express Monument and the Grave of Thornburgh the Dog are also in this area.  After touring these buildings, walk back out to the main road and turn right to head west toward the old fort area.

Main road into the fort

            You pass several sites of former structures before reaching the 1887 Guard House and Sentry Box.  Fort Bridger saw several iterations and renovations, and the structures in this part of the site date to the most recent and final iteration.  Continue following the main road to its end at the Fort Bridger Museum and 1880's Barracks, the largest building on this site.  You can tour the museum if it is open, which it was not on my visit.

1880's Barracks

            We will eventually continue on the main loop to the left (south) of the museum, but first take a detour on a narrower trail that heads right.  The trail passes some older infantry barracks before curving left to cross a drainage and reach a replica of the original Fort Bridger.  The wooden replica sits in a small grassy area surrounded by cottonwood and aspen trees.  The side trail ends at this small wooden structure, so next you have to turn around and walk back to the main loop.

Reconstructed Jim Bridger's Fort

            The main loop heads down the south side of the former military parade grounds before crossing Groshon Creek on a footbridge and reaching two 1880's era houses.  The first house you see was the Commanding Officer's house, while the second is a ranch house built to house fort visitors.  The final leg of the hike heads north along a boardwalk with the site's sundial and reconstructed bandstand on the left.

Commanding Officer's House

Lincoln Highway cabins

            After passing the 1858 Officer's Quarters, you close the loop.  Turn right to head back to the parking area.  Before you leave, there is one more interesting place at this site you should visit.  Just east of the parking lot (in the opposite direction from the fort) stands some cabins that provided lodging for travelers along the Lincoln Highway.  These cabins were built in 1929, and the ongoing restoration project gives you an idea of what travel through this region was like nearly 100 years ago.

Medicine Bow National Forest: Turtle Rock Trail (Blog Hike #595)

Trail: Turtle Rock Trail

Hike Location: Medicine Bow National Forest, Vedauwoo Picnic Site

Geographic Location: southeast of Laramie, WY (41.16082, -105.37588)

Length: 2.8 miles

Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)

Date Hiked: June 2016

Overview: A loose circumnavigation of Turtle Rock.

Site Information: http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mbr/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=22904&actid=50

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=731007
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In southeastern Wyoming, take I-80 to the Vedauwoo exit (exit 329).  Exit and go north/east on Vedauwoo Road.  Drive Vedauwoo Rd. 1.2 miles to the entrance to the Vedauwoo Campground and Picnic Site on the left.  Turn left to enter the site, and pay the small entrance fee.  Follow signs for the Turtle Rock west trailhead, and park in the small blacktop lot at the trailhead.

The hike: Although the rocky ridge between Laramie and Cheyenne stands more than 100 miles east of the continental divide, it contains the highest elevation on Interstate 80’s 2903 mile cross-country journey.  The Union Pacific Railroad used the present-day I-80 corridor across this ridge as a route for the first transcontinental railroad in the late 1860’s, and the historic Lincoln Highway also passed through here.  In fact, a monument to the Lincoln Highway sits in the median of I-80 just east of exit 329.

            The unusual-shaped rocks of the Vedauwoo formation also sit atop this ridge, and Vedauwoo is protected as part of Wyoming’s vast Medicine Bow National Forest.  The national forest is named for Medicine Bow Peak, a scenic 12,000-foot mountain located west of Laramie.  The name Vedauwoo comes from a corruption of an Arapaho word that means “earth-born.”

            The national forest’s Vedauwoo Campground offers 28 campsites, and the adjacent Vedauwoo Picnic Site contains numerous picnic areas.  Vedauwoo is also a trailhead for a system of national forest trails that head north into the heart of the rock formations.  The largest rock formation at Vedauwoo is known as Turtle Rock, and many experts view the circumnavigation of Turtle Rock described here to be southeastern Wyoming’s best short hike.  If possible, you may want to plan a weekday visit to Vedauwoo: the area’s unusual rock formations and location just off of I-80 make it a popular destination. 

Turtle Rock west trailhead

              Your trip around Turtle Rock starts at the rear of the west trailhead parking area.  The dirt Turtle Rock Trail heads west into the aspen forest, which seems unusually lush and green compared to surrounding areas.  Large numbers of thorny pink wild rose bushes were in full bloom beside this part of the trail on my late June visit.

Wild roses

            The trail descends slightly as the pink/orange hues of Turtle Rock begin to appear above you to the right.  The entire Vedauwoo formation is made of Sherman granite, which geologists believe to be some of the oldest rock in Wyoming.  Wind and water sculpted the odd-shaped hoodoos that make this area so scenic.

Turtle Rock's hoodoos

            Between 0.3 and 0.4 miles some of Turtle Rock’s most scenic formations appear above you ahead and to your right.  In addition to being a nice hiking destination, Turtle Rock is also a top-tier rock climbing destination, and I saw several climbing groups working their way up the hoodoos on my late afternoon hike.  As you head further around the rock, some small ponds appear to the left.  Beavers have built several lodges in these ponds, and the ponds’ water attracts many kinds of wildlife, thus making for good wildlife viewing on this hike.

Pond at base of Turtle Rock

            Just shy of 1 mile and at the lowest elevation of the hike, an unmarked trail exits left to head deeper into the national forest’s trail system.  Though the Turtle Rock Trail is unblazed and rarely signed, it is pretty easy to follow: at every trail intersection choose the option that stays closest to Turtle Rock.  The trail now begins a gradual to moderate climb, and it will gain 150 feet of elevation over the next 0.5 miles.  While the total elevation gain on this trail is less than 300 feet, the hike stays above 8000 feet in elevation for its entire length, so the altitude will cause you to get winded faster than usual if you live at lower elevations like I do.

Turtle Rock in the distance

            Now heading east on the north side of Turtle Rock, the trail alternates between sunny, slightly rocky desert-like terrain and shady conifers.  Turtle Rock’s hoodoos now stand several hundred feet to the right.  Parts of the trail pass over bare granite, but for the most part the going is fairly easy.  As you gain elevation, some partially obstructed views of the surrounding Wyoming countryside emerge.

Trio of boulders

            At 1.9 miles, you pass an unusual trio of boulders that sit alone on bare granite.  Next, a sign directs you to angle left just before another trail from deeper in the trail system enters from the left.  The trail now descends slightly to reach another lush wet area.  This area features a small creek with a small waterfall.

Small waterfall

            After passing through a gate that marks your re-entrance into the developed picnic area, you need to stay left where a spur trail exits right to prematurely enter the Vedauwoo Picnic Site.  The final segment of trail passes beside another small pond before emerging at a trailhead parking area with vault toilets.  Unfortunately, this parking area is the Turtle Rock east trailhead parking lot, not the Turtle Rock west trailhead parking lot where your car resides.  Thus, this hike ends with a paved road walk through the Vedauwoo Picnic Site. 

Heading due west takes you first uphill and then downhill to the correct parking area to complete the hike.  While you are here, you may also want to check out the short 0.5 mile asphalt trail that explores Turtle Rock’s box canyon, a narrow rocky ravine through the middle of the rock formation.  The trailhead for the asphalt trail lies to the right along the final road walk through the picnic site.

Bear River State Park: Nature Trail (Blog Hike #594)

Trail: Nature Trail

Hike Location: Bear River State Park

Geographic Location: south side of Evanston, WY (41.26111, -110.93455)

Length: 3.1 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Dates Hiked: July 2011, June 2016

Overview: A series of short, flat loops along the Bear River.

Park Information: http://wyoparks.state.wy.us/index.php/places-to-go/bear-river

Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=537597
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In southwestern Wyoming, take I-80 to Bear River Drive (exit 6).  Exit and go south on Bear River Dr.  Take Bear River Dr. less than 0.1 miles to the park entrance on the right.  Turn right to enter the park, then drive the main park road 0.5 miles to a small parking area on the right opposite the bison/elk pen.  Only a brown nature trail sign marks this parking lot.  Park here.

The hike: Although the Bear River starts and ends in Utah, its unusual 350 mile horseshoe-shaped course carries its agriculturally valuable water through three different western states.  The river’s source lies in the high Uintas Mountains of northeastern Utah, so snowmelt is a major contributor to the river’s water.  In fact, when I first came to Bear River State Park in July 2011, extremely rapid snowmelt had caused the river to flood, and I was unable to hike any of the park’s trails because they were all underwater.  After leaving Utah, the Bear River flows north through extreme western Wyoming before curving west into Idaho and finally curving south to empty into Utah’s Great Salt Lake.

Conveniently located just off of I-80, Wyoming’s Bear River State Park protects 280 acres along its namesake river.  Bear trappers named this river in the early 1800’s due to the large number of bear that lived here.  The park opened only in 1991, and a concrete bike path connects the park to the nearby town of Evanston.

            The park today is most famous for its elk and bison pastures, though I saw no elk or bison on my visit.  The park’s only amenities are a few picnic shelters and trails, so in some sense Bear River State Park feels more like a city park than a state park.  The park’s developed area lies on the east side of the river, so this hike explores the multiple loops of the Nature Trail on the west side of the river.

Beginning of Nature Trail

            Two footbridges cross the Bear River within the park’s boundaries, a northern downstream bridge and a southern upstream bridge.  This hike starts by crossing the downstream bridge, which is a fairly new iron/wood structure that departs the rear of the Nature Trail parking area.  At the west side of the bridge, you reach a T-intersection with options going left and right.  Nature Trail loops lie in either direction, so you could go either way here.  I chose to turn right and hike the two downstream loops first.

            At 0.2 miles, the gravel trail splits to form the first loop.  The trails at Bear River are unmarked, so I suggest turning right at every intersection to avoid hiking in circles.  Such a choice will hike all of the loops counterclockwise.  Choosing the trail going right here will keep you close to the river bank on your right as you continue a northward course.

Seasonal wetland

            Where the trails come back together at the northern end of the first loop, continue straight to begin the second loop, the northern-most loop.  Some seasonal ponds appear to the left of the trail, and the abundance of water here compared to the surrounding semi-arid region makes this park an above average destination for birding and wildlife viewing.  On my visit, I saw numerous red-winged blackbirds among other common mountain birds, some rabbits, and some deer.

A rabbit in the grass

            As you curve left to round the northernmost loop, first I-80 and then an active railroad track come within earshot on the right.  After closing the northernmost loop, make two right turns to hike the western arm of the next loop.  This area features more grassy/shrubby terrain interlaced by seasonal wet areas.

            1 mile into the hike, you close another loop, where another right turn brings you back to the western end of the footbridge on which this hike started.  Continue straight to head for the southern upstream Nature Trail loops.  The wide gravel trail winds its way south with the river on the left, sometimes close and sometimes several yards away.  Large rocks have been placed in some areas to stabilize the river bank.

Hiking along the Bear River

            After briefly joining a two-track gravel road under a power line, the trail splits to form the southern loop.  Keeping with the right-turn oriented route identified above, angle right to hike the loop counterclockwise, and then stay right at the next two trail intersections.  At 1.7 miles, you reach yet another trail intersection.  Continue straight to hike a short 0.15 mile side loop through an area that features some odd piles of logs, possibly piled-up debris from river flooding.  Upon closing the short loop, turn right at this same intersection again to continue the main loop.  This section of trail also features some nice new wooden footbridges.

Pile of flood debris

            2 miles into the hike, you approach the park’s southern boundary, which is marked by a wire fence.  The trail now curves left as the west bank of the Bear River comes into view.  At 2.25 miles, you intersect an old gravel road.  Turn right on the old road to quickly reach an old steel and wood road bridge that now serves as the park’s southern upstream footbridge over Bear River.  Turn left at this bridge to keep heading downstream along the west bank of the river.

Old road bridge over Bear River

            The final 0.8 miles parallel the Bear River, sometimes close and sometimes at a distance.  Wherever other trails exit left, choose the trail closest to the river.  Just shy of 3 miles, you reach the west end of the northern downstream footbridge for a third and final time.  A right turn and short walk over the bridge returns you to the trailhead parking area to complete the hike.

Devils Tower National Monument:Tower Trail (Blog Hike #80)

Trail: Tower Trail

Hike Location: Devils Tower National Monument

Geographic Location: northwest of Sundance, WY (44.59029, -104.72026)

Length: 1.5 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: September 2000

Overview: An easy journey, mostly on paved trail, around a national landmark.

Monument Information: http://www.nps.gov/deto/index.htm

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=717459
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In Sundance, Wyoming, take I-90 to US 14 (exit 185).  Exit and go west on US 14.  Drive US 14 west 19 miles to SR 24 and turn right on SR 24.  Take SR 24 6 miles to SR 110 and turn left on SR 110.  SR 110 becomes the main park road when you enter the monument.  Park in the parking lot beside the Visitor Center at the end of the main park road.

The hike: At 867 feet in height, Devils Tower is the most recognized landmark in northeast Wyoming.  The grey granite tower, which resembles a large tree stump, draws thousands of visitors each year.  Unlike Mr. Spielburg suggests, most of these visitors are probably from earth.  The stable, nearly vertical rock makes Devils Tower one of the great sites in the world for rock climbing. 

With four trails of various length and difficulty, the hiking at Devils Tower is not bad either. This hike describes the Tower Trail, the shortest, easiest, most popular, and closest trail to the tower.  As you drive up to the Visitor's Center, notice the red native Wyoming soil exposed in the red beds surrounding Devils Tower.  Take a minute to contrast the red soil with the dark grey, imposing features of the tower.  Also notice the prairie dog colony along the road in the red beds.  Prairie dogs are defenseless against most predators.  They must live in areas with unobstructed views so they can see predators coming, duck into their holes, and escape.

The front porch of the visitor center provides a nice view of the tower to the east.  From this vantage point, walk east, toward the tower, and pick up the paved Tower Trail.  The trail immediately ascends moderately through a dense ponderosa pine forest to arrive at a fork in the trail.  For no particular reason, I chose to turn right and hike the trail counter-clockwise.  The trail passes through a boulder field made of rock that has fallen from the tower to arrive at the tower's base.

Devils Tower

            Throughout your hike, keep an eye on the tower, looking for rock climbers which appear as dots on the grey rock face.  In 0.25 miles arrive at an overlook of the Belle Fouche River valley to the south.  From this point, one can see the river some 300 feet below you and several miles into the dry Wyoming hills.

View into Belle Fouche River valley

            The sun shines brightly on the tower's south side as the trail approaches a small rest area with a metal scope.  The scope is focused on a wooden ladder situated several hundred feet up the tower.  This ladder is a remnant of the first successful climb of the tower on July 4, 1893.  Note that the ladder is sufficiently high that binoculars may be required to see it. 

Tower Trail through ponderosa pines

            The trail soon reaches its closest point to the tower (you can touch the vertical sides) before taking a right turn away from the tower.  The trail descends slightly through dense ponderosa pines and begins proceeding westward on the north side of the tower.  The north side appears darker, more vertical, and more imposing than the sunny south side.  At a trail fork, stay right and soon reach the spur trail to the visitor center to close the loop.  Turn right and proceed downhill to the parking lot to complete the hike.