Mount Greylock State Reservation: Jones Nose/Rounds Rock Loop (Blog Hike #959)

Trails: Woodason Spring, Rounds Rock, and Northrop Trails
Hike Location: Mount Greylock State Reservation
Geographic Location: north of Pittsfield, MA
Length: 2.5 miles
Difficulty: 7/10 (Moderate/Difficult)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: A loop hike, sometimes rocky and sometimes muddy, to views from Rounds Rock.
Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/mount-greylock-state-reservation
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946649
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video: 

Directions to the trailhead: From downtown Pittsfield, take US 7 north 5.7 miles to Greylock Road.  Turn softly right to continue heading north on Greylock Rd.  Drive Greylock Rd. north 1.1 miles to Rockwell Road, which is also Mount Greylock's summit road.  Turn softly left to begin climbing on Rockwell Rd.  Drive Rockwell Rd. 4.3 miles to the Jones Nose Trailhead on your right on Mount Greylock's south face.  Park at this trailhead, where this hike begins.

The hike: Rising to 3491 feet above sea level in Massachusetts' rural northwest corner, Mount Greylock is the highest point in Massachusetts.  The summit is punctuated by the iconic 93-foot tall Veterans War Memorial Tower, which was constructed in 1931-32 to honor veterans of World War I.  A spiral staircase leads to the top of the tower, which on a clear day offers views of 4 states: Connecticut, New York, Vermont, and of course Massachusetts.  Although Mount Greylock is often thought of as part of Massachusetts' Berkshire Mountains, geologically it is part of the Taconic Mountains, which run for 150 miles along New York State's eastern boundary.  The Taconic Mountains offer many other fantastic hiking opportunities including Bash Bish Falls and Mount Equinox; both of those hikes are described elsewhere in this trail journal.

            Since 1898 Mount Greylock has been protected by Mount Greylock State Reservation, which is the oldest wilderness state park in Massachusetts.  True to its wilderness status, most of the mountain is maintained in its natural state, and the park offers only a primitive campground, a 16-mile seasonal summit road, and numerous hiking trails as amenities.  The summit road alternates between steep and relatively flat sections, and it offers summit access from both the south and the north.  Thus, the summit is a very popular place in the summer.

            Several hiking trails lead to Mount Greylock's summit, but all of them are rather steep and primitive.  Thus, I chose the more manageable loop hike described here on the mountain's south flank.  This hike leads to Rounds Rock, which is one of Mount Greylock's many subpeaks.  Therefore, this hike offers nice views and significant distance through mature forest without pegging the difficulty meter.

Woodason Spring Trail leaving Jones Nose Trailhead

            From the Jones Nose Trailhead, pick up the Woodason Spring Trail as it heads south across a sunny meadow that was covered with goldenrod in bloom when I came here in early September.  After crossing the meadow, the trail enters the woods and descends moderately to begin following a tributary of Kitchen Brook.  Powder blue paint blazes now mark the way.  

Leaving the meadow and entering the woods

            When the tributary of Kitchen Brook comes within earshot on the left, the trail reaches a local minimum in elevation and begins climbing.  The damp and dense forest features maple and birch trees with a dense understory that includes ferns.  Some wet areas will be encountered, but short wooden plank bridges get you over the wettest areas.  Overall, the trail is narrow and rooty, and the required careful stepping makes the going slower than you might expect.

Climbing away from Kitchen Brook

            At 0.75 miles, you cross the summit road at the Rounds Rock Trailhead.  This trailhead is an alternate starting point for this hike, but the parking here is not as good as at the Jones Nose Trailhead where this description began.  Now west of the summit road, the trail continues climbing before splitting to form the Rounds Rock Loop.  Continue straight to begin hiking the loop clockwise.

Rocky trail near Rounds Rock

            Soon the trail flattens out but becomes more rocky as you top the summit of Rounds Rock.  The summit of Rounds Rock offers no views, but at 1.1 miles you reach the first of two spur trails that exit left to fantastic viewpoints.  The first viewpoint looks due south down the descending spine of Mount Greylock, while the second viewpoint looks more west toward East Mountain, Beoadic Mountain, and New York State.  Some rocks here make nice places to sit, rest, and enjoy a trail snack near the midpoint of this hike while soaking up the views.

1st Rounds Rock viewpoint

2nd Rounds Rock viewpoint

            Just past the second viewpoint, you reach another trail fork.  Going right would continue around the Rounds Rock Loop, which includes the site of a small plane crash.  This hike turns left to begin a connector trail that leads down to the Northrop Trail, the final leg of this hike.  The descent is gradual at first, but soon you will need to climb down some stone ledges that may require you to use your hands as well as your feet.  These ledges are the hardest part of this hike, so take care while descending.

            At 1.45 miles, you intersect the Northrop Trail, which goes left and right.  Turn right to head back to the Jones Nose Trailhead where you began.  The Northrop Trail descends and then ascends but on gradual grades as it heads the general direction of north.  Several very muddy areas had to be negotiated on my visit, and the Northrop Trail is my least favorite trail on this hike.

Hiking the Northrop Trail

            After passing an interesting pile of large boulders, a gentle climb brings you to within feet of the summit road's shoulder.  Turn right to hike the short spur trail through the meadow that returns you to the Jones Nose Trailhead to complete the hike.  A large ground hog welcomed me back to the trailhead when I did this hike.  Before you leave, you should for sure drive the rest of the summit road up to Mount Greylock's summit.  Not only are the views fantastic on a clear day, but the Veterans War Memorial Tower makes an iconic backdrop for a group photo or a selfie.

Big Dave atop Mount Greylock

Chicopee Memorial State Park: Chicopee Reservoir Loop (Blog Hike #958)

Trails: Asphalt, Blue, and White Trails
Hike Location: Chicopee Memorial State Park
Geographic Location: Chicopee, MA (42.17067, -72.54675)
Length: 3 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: A loose loop around Chicopee Reservoir.
Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/chicopee-memorial-state-park
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946545
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: On the northeast side of Springfield, take I-291 to its north end at the Massachusetts Turnpike (Turnpike exit 51).  Where I-291 ends, continue north on Burnett Road 0.7 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, and park in the main parking lot near the picnic shelter and beach.

The hike: The Commonwealth of Massachusetts did not start managing the land that comprises today's Chicopee Memorial State Park until the 1960's, but the land's history as parkland dates all the way back to 1893.  Once known as Cooley Brook Reservoir and Watershed, today's park is the site of three reservoirs dating to 1896, 1912, and 1926 that provide drinking water for the City of Chicopee.  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) planted trees, built roads, and laid down trails here from 1935 to 1937 in addition to stabilizing the shores of the reservoirs.

            Visitors to the park today find a fantastic green oasis in the middle of suburban Springfield.  The 562 acre day-use park offers a swimming beach, fishing with restrictions, picnic areas, and many miles of trails open to hikers and mountain bikers.  Many routes are possible through this park's extensive trail system, and the route described here forms a loose loop around the park's main reservoir.  Thus, this hike combines excellent lake views with nice forest and wetland scenery.

Starting the loop

            From the main parking lot, head down the closed paved road that goes west with the beach area and main reservoir on your right.  Soon the asphalt road turns into an asphalt trail as it exits the park's developed area and heads downhill below the Chicopee Reservoir Dam.  Below the dam, the trail curves right and crosses a wetland area, which is a great place to do some bird watching.  Unfortunately, I did this hike in a light rain, and the rain seemed to be keeping most wildlife in obscure dry areas where I could not see them.

Wetland below Chicopee Reservoir Dam

            At 0.6 miles, the asphalt trail forks to form its loop.  To make my hike a little longer, I chose to turn left and start heading clockwise around the loop.  The trail climbs away from the wetland area following what appears to be an old road bed.  Oak trees dominate the forest here, but some pine groves possibly planted by the CCC will also appear.  I saw a somewhat rare black squirrel on this part of the hike.

Climbing away from the wetland

            The trail starts to level out just before you pass under a power line.  Stay with the asphalt trail for now, ignoring dirt mountain bike trails that exit left and right.  At 1.25 miles, the trail curves right as the Westover Air Reserve Base comes into view straight ahead and to the left.  Operated by the United States Air Force, Westover is one of the largest military installations in New England, and it features the longest runway in Massachusetts.  Of course the base is off limits to hikers, so you should not cross the chain link fence that surrounds the base.

Starting the Fenceline Trail

            At 1.6 miles, you pass the south edge of the air reserve base, which in turn is another trail intersection.  If you wanted a short hike or if you wanted to stay on the asphalt, you could continue straight and just hike the asphalt loop, which is designated as this park's Healthy Heart Trail.  To do a full loop around the reservoir and see some of the park's dirt trails, turn left to begin heading east on a trail some maps call the Fenceline Trail.

Hiking the Fenceline Trail

            Marked with blue paint blazes, the aptly-named Fenceline Trail stays close to the air base's chain link fence on the left.  The undulations atop this bluff are gradual, and a couple of views of the reservoir well below you can be had to the right.  While the fenced air base does not make the most inspiring hiking, the going is quite easy.  Just past 2.1 miles, where the fence curves to the left, you want to angle right and descend via eroded trail on a brief moderate grade.  Upon reaching the bottom of the hill, turn right to cross Cooley Brook on a wooden footbridge.

Crossing Cooley Brook

            The remainder of the hike follows white and blue blazes on a wide dirt trail that appears to be an old road.  Cooley Brook sits just through the trees to the right.  After a brief climb, turn right to keep following the white and blue blazes.  The trail narrows, and you reach the headwaters of Chicopee Reservoir as you enter a pleasant pine tree planting.  3 miles into the hike, you return to the picnic area and main parking lot to complete the hike.

Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation: South Sugarloaf (Blog Hike #957)

Trails: Old Mountain and Pocumtuck Ridge Trails
Hike Location: Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation
Geographic Location: south of Deerfield, MA (42.46794, -72.59524)
Length: 2.2 miles
Difficulty: 9/10 (Difficult)
Date Hiked: September 2023
Overview: An out-and-back up the back road to Mount Sugarloaf.
Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/mount-sugarloaf-state-reservation
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=946406
Photo Highlight:

Hike Video:

Directions to the trailhead: North of Springfield, take I-91 to US 5 and SR 116 (exit 35).  Exit, go north on US 5, then almost immediately turn right on SR 116.  Drive SR 116 south/east 1 mile to Sugarloaf Street and turn left on Sugarloaf St.  Park in the paved parking area at the base of Mount Sugarloaf on the right, which is reached after only a couple hundred feet.

The hike: Jutting 500 feet above the west bank of the Connecticut River, Mount Sugarloaf anchors the south end of western Massachusetts' short and narrow Pocumtuck Mountain Range.  The north-south Pocumtuck Range extends for only 11 miles and rises less than 900 feet above sea level.  The range's "mountains" consist mostly of arkose sandstone covered by a thin layer of igneous trap rock.  Mount Sugarloaf got its name from early European settlers who thought it looked like one of the "loaves" that sugar was cut into for shipping during that era.

            Established in 1907, Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation is one of the oldest state parks in Massachusetts.  The reservation consists of 533 acres on and around the mountain, and parts of the park near the Connecticut River are used by the nearby University of Massachusetts Amherst for agricultural research.  Mount Sugarloaf has two peaks: South Sugarloaf and North Sugarloaf.  Both peaks are contained in the reservation.

            The reservation's main attraction is its auto road to the summit of South Sugarloaf, which features an observation tower that allows visitors to take in its famous views from the south end of the Pocumtuck Range.  You could drive to the observation tower, but why drive to something that you can reach via a reasonable hike?  Two hiking trails lead to the summit of South Sugarloaf: one very steep trail that goes directly up the mountain's south face and one less steep trail that winds around to the mountain's north face.  This hike takes you up and down the longer and less steep route.  While some climbing and a couple of steep areas are still encountered, this hike is doable by most people in decent physical condition.

Trailhead at base parking lot

            Two trails leave from the southeast corner of the base parking lot.  The trail on the right is the one that goes straight up South Sugarloaf's south face.  Thus, I chose the one on the left to begin the longer and slightly more gradual route.

Hiking the Old Mountain Trail

            The trail approaches but never crosses the summit road before curving left to begin treading a gently undulating course along the reservation's west boundary.  Red paint blazes mark this portion of the trail, which the trail map calls the Old Mountain Trail even though nothing on the ground says such.  A housing development comes in sight on the left, and a power line corridor stands uphill to the right.

Climbing Pocumtuck Ridge

            After passing under the power line, you join an old road at 0.45 miles.  Now the climb begins in earnest, and the trail climbs moderately toward the saddle between North and South Sugarloaf.  At 0.65 miles, you reach the intersection with the Pocumtuck Ridge Trail at said saddle.  The trail going left leads to North Sugarloaf, so you want to turn right to head for South Sugarloaf.

Trail intersection at the saddle

            The grade intensifies and the blazes turn to powder blue as you head south toward South Sugarloaf.  At 0.75 miles, the trail follows the shoulder of the summit road for a couple hundred feet before beginning a pair of switchbacks that takes you up the steepest part of the climb.  0.9 miles into the hike, you reach the first overlook.  This east-facing viewpoint offers fantastic views of Mount Toby and related hills across the Connecticut River.

View east from first overlook

            Continuing south, the grade moderates, and you reach the summit parking lots near 1 mile.  Walking through the parking lots brings you to some picnic tables and the observation tower only a few hundred feet later.  Climbing the spiral lighthouse-style staircase to the top of the observation tower gives fantastic 360-degree views.  The straighter-than-you-might-expect Connecticut River flows off to the south, while the Berkshire Mountains dominate to the west and the Pocumtuck Range rises to the north.  You earned these views while others drove to them, so take some time to enjoy the reward.

View south from observation tower

View west from observation tower

            When you are ready, retrace your steps down to the parking lot to complete the hike.  If you want to add more distance, you could take a detour onto the Pocumtuck Ridge Trail and head for North Sugarloaf and its views.  I do NOT recommend taking the more direct trail back down the mountain's south face: its steepness poses a footing/safety risk, which is greater while hiking downhill than while hiking uphill.

Maudslay State Park: Pasture/Merrimack River Loop (Blog Hike #762)

Trails: Pasture and Merrimack River Trails

Hike Location: Maudslay State Park

Geographic Location: west side of Newburyport, MA (42.82153, -70.92623)

Length: 2 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: July 2019

Overview: A loop hike through the former Maudslay estate featuring good Merrimack River views.

Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/maudslay-state-park

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=762415

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the north side of Boston, take I-95 to SR 113 (exit 57).  Exit and go west on SR 113.  Drive SR 113 west 0.6 miles to Hoyts Lane and turn right on Hoyts Ln.  Drive narrow Hoyts Ln. 0.6 miles to the entrance for Maudslay State Park.  At the end of Hoyts Ln., turn right onto Curzon Mill Road, then quickly turn right again to park in the large blacktop parking lot.

The hike: Consisting of 480 acres on the south bank of the Merrimack River, Maudslay State Park protects the former estate of Frederick Strong Moseley.  (Moseley and Maudslay are variants of the same surname.)  A Boston broker and director of Shawmut Bank, Moseley built the estate between 1895 and 1910, although some buildings were added later.  The estate’s privacy was compromised in the 1950’s when the construction of I-95 and I-495 sliced across the property, and the family became less enamored with the estate.  The Massachusetts Department of Environmental Management acquired the property in 1985 to form the park we enjoy today.

            Outdoor activities take center stage at Maudslay State Park.  The park features only some picnic areas and restrooms for amenities, and it offers many miles of trails open to hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and wintertime skiing.  Many routes through the park’s trail system are possible.  The route described here takes you through the developed areas of the former estate and to the park’s most scenic area: its blufftop views of the Merrimack River.

Crossing Curzon Mill Road

            None of the trails at Maudslay State Park are marked, so I recommend grabbing a trail map from the information board near the large parking lot before heading out.  From the parking lot, walk across Curzon Mill Road using the marked crosswalk and pick up the Pasture Trail as it heads northeast through an open meadow.  The Pasture Trail is also open to horses and mountain bikes, but the only other trail users on the Thursday morning that I hiked here were some families having picnic lunches in the meadow.

Large estate trees

            The trail curves left and descends gradually as the estate’s former Christmas tree grove can be seen to the right.  Some very large oak and pine trees live in this area, a testament to the magnificence of this estate.  When the park’s Flowering Pond comes into view, angle right to cross the pond on an old stone bridge, still following a wide two-track trail.  This pond gets its name from the large amount of rhododendron and mountain laurel that grows along its banks, and hikers here in the early summer will find a trail lined with flowering shrubs in bloom.

Flowering Pond

            At 0.65 miles, turn left to cross the dam that forms Flowering Pond.  At the next trail intersection, turn right to begin hiking atop the bluffs that overlook the Merrimack River.  This hike follows these bluffs for the next 0.5 miles, and broad views appear across the Merrimack River some 60 feet below.

Merrimack River view

            Near 1 mile into the hike, angle right to walk around a chain link fence and begin the hiker-only Merrimack River Trail.  Next comes the toughest part of the hike: the trail narrows and goes up and down through two steep ravines.  If this trail is too hard for you, the wide and flat Main Road Trail lies uphill to the left and parallels this trail.  The last Merrimack River viewpoint is passed at 1.2 miles after you top a steep but low hill.

Main house site

            Just past the last river view, you reach the main house site from the former Maudslay estate.  Once consisting of 72 rooms, the main house was demolished in 1955, and only a partial foundation remains.  Past the main house site, angle left to reach the estate’s well, which is well-preserved with its own shelter.  A small old cemetery in this area is partially responsible for legends that this site is haunted.

The estate's well

            Ignore the Swamp Trail that exits right and continue east into the estate’s greenhouse and vegetable garden area while passing the highest elevation on this hike.  At the estate’s peak, 40 staff members worked in these areas to keep the estate’s grounds well-manicured.  Walk through the garden area and angle left to reach another partial foundation, which is all that remains of Helen Moseley’s house.  Helen Moseley was Frederick’s younger daughter, and her house was built between 1939 and 1941.  Helen Moseley’s house burned down in 1978.

Helen Moseley house site

            The estate tour ends at Helen Moseley’s house, and the hike concludes by walking out Hedge Drive, which was Helen Moseley’s former driveway.  Hedge Drive comes out on Curzon Mill Road near its intersection with Hoyt Lane.  Turning left and walking along the road takes you past the Visitor Center to the main parking lot, thus concluding the hike.

Great Woods Conservation Area (Blog Hike #761)

Trails: Scott/Goyea, Schoolmaster’s Bridle, Chase’s, and Codding Farm Trails

Hike Location: Great Woods Conservation Area

Geographic Location: south side of Mansfield, MA (41.98792, -71.23495)

Length: 2.1 miles

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: July 2019

Overview: A flat loop through old farm fields reverted to wet forest.

Area Information: https://nrtma.org/trails/great-woods/

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=759394

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the south side of Boston, take I-495 to SR 140 (exit 12).  Exit and go north on SR 140.  Drive SR 140 north 1.3 miles to School Street and turn left on School St.  School St. becomes Elm Street after passing under I-495.  Drive a total of 2.7 miles from SR 140 to Oak Street and turn left on Oak St.  The signed parking lot for Great Woods Conservation Area is 0.3 miles ahead on the left.

The hike: When you look at the suburban area south of Boston on Google Maps, you see a patchwork of white developed areas and green park areas.  While some of the green areas are state parks, many of the green areas are properties owned by town-linked trusts such as the Natural Resources Trust of Mansfield.  The Natural Resources Trust of Mansfield was established in 1971 for the purposes of preserving open space and protecting land from development.  Today the Trust protects 7 tracts of land around the Town of Mansfield.

Consisting of 2300 acres straddling the Mansfield/Norton town line, Great Woods Conservation Area is the largest tract of land owned and managed by the Natural Resources Trust of Mansfield.  The Great Woods consists entirely of reverting farmland, some of which began to be farmed as early as 1723.  Seven trails go through the Great Woods, and the loop described here provides a good sample of the hiking this area has to offer.  Be warned that about one-third of the Great Woods is wet enough to be classified as swamp, and therefore bugs will be very bad here during the warmer months.

Start of Scott/Goyea Trail

From the parking area, start on the orange-blazed Scott/Goyea Trail, which heads through a grassy area on an eastward course.  The post that marks the start of the Scott/Goyea Trail was somewhat obscured by grass and bushes on my visit, but the route on the ground was clear.  As I mentioned in the introduction, Great Woods consists of reverting farmland, and this trail passes through farmland previously owned by families named Scott and Goyea, hence the trail’s name.

Hiking through dense pines

The trail traces around a sunny grassy area before curving left to enter the woods.  The wooded areas on this tract of land feature dense pine trees, and the trail goes back and forth between sunny meadows and dark, dense woods.  Some rows of rocks can be seen along this trail: they were used to mark boundaries between fields back in this land’s farming days.

At 0.5 miles, the Scott/Goyea Trail ends at an intersection with the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail, which is marked in red and is the Great Woods’ main trail.  Turn right on the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail to continue the loop.  The Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail gets its name from schoolmasters who used this route as a shortcut between Elm Street and South Main Street in the 1800’s.  None of the trails at Great Woods are open to horses, but hunters are allowed to use this land in season.  To avoid accidents, you should wear bright orange clothing when hiking here during hunting season.

Boardwalk near Blueberry Brook

The Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail heads east and soon crosses a wetland along Blueberry Brook via a wooden boardwalk.  At 0.85 miles, this loop turns left to leave the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail and begin Chase’s Trail.  A white plastic diamond nailed to a tree marks the start of Chase’s Trail, but you need to be looking for the white plastic diamond in order to see it.  If you miss this turn, the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail leads to the performing arts center across the Great Woods’ eastern boundary, and you will need to backtrack.

Start of Chase's Trail

Chase’s Trail is the least trafficked and least maintained trail in the Great Woods, but there are enough white plastic diamond markers to keep you on track.  Even though wooden bridges carry you over the wettest areas, many roots and wet areas will still need to be negotiated.  The forest in this area consists mostly of maple, beech, and pine trees, and it includes some large beech trees estimated to be nearly 150 years old.

            After passing under some power lines, Chase’s Trail ends at an intersection with the wider Codding Farm Trail, which goes left and right.  Turn left to continue our loop.  Marked with lime green paint blazes, the Codding Farm Trail soon reaches the signed Old Codding Farm site, which can be accessed by a narrow spur trail to the left.  Very little of the Codding Farm remains today, and many ferns grow in the understory here.

Old farm equipment

            Just past the Old Codding Farm site, the Codding Farm Trail ends at a junction with the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail 1.8 miles into the hike.  Turn right on the Schoolmaster’s Bridle Trail to begin the final segment of our loop.  Some more wet areas will need to be negotiated, and an old rusty piece of farm equipment sitting beside the trail provides yet another reminder of this land’s agricultural past.  Traffic noise from Oak Street comes within earshot just before the trail comes out at Great Woods’ parking area, thus completing the hike.  While you are in the area, Great Woods’ has another trailhead on Judy’s Lane on the other side of I-495 with its own short trail system that waits your exploration.

Cape Cod National Seashore: Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail and Marconi Site (Blog Hike #760)

Trail: Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail

Hike Location: Cape Cod National Seashore

Geographic Location: south of Wellfleet, MA (41.91294, -69.97283)

Length: 1.3 miles

Difficulty: 1/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: July 2019

Overview: A short loop through a white cedar swamp culminating with dune-top views of the Atlantic Ocean at the historic Marconi Site.

Seashore Information: https://www.nps.gov/caco/index.htm

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=759519

Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: The entrance to Cape Cod National Seashore’s Marconi Site is located on the east side of US 6 7.9 miles north of the US 6/SR 28 traffic circle in Orleans.  There is a traffic light at the entrance to the Marconi Site.  Enter the Marconi Site, then bear left on Marconi Station Road where the road to Marconi Beach exits right.  The trailhead parking lot is 1 mile ahead at the end of Marconi Station Rd.

The hike: Forming a giant hook that juts out from the southeast corner of Massachusetts, Cape Cod is one of the most popular and famous summer vacation destinations in New England.  The cape took its current form at the end of the last Ice Age: it represents a terminal moraine that marks the southeastern-most extent of glaciers in New England.  Nearby Long Island and Block Island have similar origins.  Today the cape is bordered on the west by Cape Cod Bay and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean.

            Like most vacation spots, most of Cape Cod has been developed by building resorts, restaurants, shops, and vacation homes.  Fortunately, in 1961 President John F. Kennedy, a Massachusetts native, created Cape Cod National Seashore to protect over 43,000 acres of the cape.  The protected areas allow visitors to explore the cape in its natural state, and they include 6 beaches in addition to ponds and woods.

            In terms of trails, the National Seashore offers several paved bike trails and numerous hiking trails.  However, most of the hiking trails are less than 1 mile in length, and very few trails lead to the Atlantic Ocean beaches that make Cape Cod so popular.  On point, the park’s longest hiking trail, an 8 mile jaunt around Great Island, is located on the bay side of the cape.  The Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail described here is one of the National Seashore’s longer trails, and it starts/ends at the historically important Marconi Site overlooking the ocean.  Thus, this hike packs some of the National Seashore’s best attractions into one small package.

            To save the best for last, I chose to hike to the swamp before visiting the Marconi Site.  To execute such a plan, start at the signed trailhead for the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail, which is located at the southwest corner of the parking area.  Almost immediately the trail forks to form its loop.  For no particular reason, I chose the left option here and used the right option as my return route, thus hiking the loop clockwise.

            The white sandy-dirt trail descends gradually on a westward course through a dense forest of low coastal oaks.  The trees close to the ocean are stunted by wind and lack of good soil, but as you get further inland some larger oaks and pines appear.  Interpretive signs help you identify common plants in this forest.

Hiking toward the swamp

            At 0.4 miles, you cross an old road just before you reach the start of the swamp boardwalk.  Most of this “boardwalk” is actually made of synthetic plastic-like planks, and it forms a winding loop around the white cedar swamp.  I hiked here on a cool breezy afternoon after a small tornado had cut across the cape earlier that morning, and I appreciated the additional traction the synthetic planks give over real wood in wet conditions.

Boardwalk through white cedar swamp

            Where the boardwalk splits to form its loop, stay left to hike the longer portion of the loop.  Geologists believe this swamp was formed by a chunk of melting ice at the end of the last ice age.  The swamp features plenty of water and white cedar trees, and the moisture from the swamp allows the trees to grow taller here than in surrounding drier areas.  The swamp also features plenty of mosquitoes, so wear good bug spray in the warmer months.

            At the next boardwalk intersection, turn left to leave the boardwalk loop, then climb slightly to reach the end of the boardwalk and a major trail intersection.  To get back to the trailhead, take a soft right to begin a wide gravel trail.  For reasons to be seen later, this trail is called the Old Wireless Road.  The Old Wireless Road is dead straight for its entire distance, and it climbs on a gradual to moderate grade.  The difference between maximum and minimum elevation on this hike is only 90 feet, so the climb is very manageable.

Walking up to the Marconi Site

            At 1.1 miles, you return to the parking area to complete the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail.  To also see the Marconi Site, walk across the parking area and walk up the asphalt switchbacking ADA-accessible ramp that leads up to an observation platform.  Near this site, in 1903 Guglielmo Marconi completed the first two-way wireless communication across the Atlantic from the United States to Europe.  Marconi erected a large transmitting array on four 210-foot wooden towers here, and the message was received by a similar array constructed in Cornwall, United Kingdom.  The apparatus was shut down in 1917 partly due to World War I and partly because the ocean had eroded the sand at the towers’ bases, thus making them unstable.  Interpretive signs tell you about the site and the forces of nature that still shape this land today.

View south from observation platform

            The observation platform also offers fantastic views down to the Atlantic Ocean.  When I came here on a seasonally cool and blustery afternoon, gusts of wind blew me around, and waves pounding against the shore serenaded my ears.  Although you can see the ocean some 90 feet below, there is no trail to take you down to the ocean.  Thus, after exploring the Marconi Site you will need to return to the parking lot to complete the hike.  If you really want to stand beside as opposed to above the ocean, the National Seashore’s Marconi Beach lies just south of here, but an entrance fee is required to access the beach.

Walden Pond State Reservation: Pond Path (Blog Hike #542)

Trail: Pond Path

Hike Location: Walden Pond State Reservation

Geographic Location: east side of Concord, MA (42.44079, -71.33458)

Length: 1.9 miles

Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)

Date Hiked: August 2015

Overview: A circumnavigation of the world’s most famous kettle pond.

Park Information: https://www.mass.gov/locations/walden-pond-state-reservation

Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=729298
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: In suburban Boston, take SR 2 to SR 126.  This intersection is located 4.5 miles west of I-95 or 10.5 miles east of I-495.  Go south on SR 126.  The state reservation entrance is on the left 0.4 miles south of SR 2.  Turn left to enter the reservation, and park in any of the large blacktop parking lots.

The hike: The date was July 4, 1845 when the author, philosopher, historian, and Concord, MA native Henry David Thoreau went “into the woods.”  For the next two years he planned to practice subsistence living in a small self-built cabin.  Thoreau had built the cabin on a plot of land owned by Ralph Waldo Emerson located adjacent to Walden Pond.  Thoreau’s goal was to confront “only the essential facts of life” and therefore learn what nature had to teach.  The result of this endeavor was the writing Walden, a memoir published in 1854 that would become Thoreau’s most famous work.

            Geologically speaking, Walden Pond is a glacial kettle pond, or a body of water that formed at the end of the last ice age by runoff from retreating glaciers.  New England has many kettle ponds, and Walden Pond does not particularly stand out in terms of size or scenic value.  Thus, the Thoreau connection gives Walden Pond its claim to fame.

            What you think of Walden Pond when you leave depends a lot on what you are expecting when you arrive.  If you come expecting the wilderness experience Thoreau had over 150 years ago, then you will leave disappointed.  Walden Pond today lies in suburban Boston, so the sounds of voices, cars, trains, and airplanes are ever-present.  On the other hand, if you arrive expecting a nice pondside woodland walk in a suburban setting, then you will leave quite content.

            Several trails access more remote corners of the reservation, but the Pond Path described here remains the reservation’s most popular and famous trail.  A bookstore operated on-site by the Thoreau Society gives you an opportunity to purchase literary works and other items, and a new expanded Visitor Center was under construction when I came here in August 2015.  Also, be aware that due to this reservation’s location and popularity, the large parking lot tends to fill on warm weather days.  The reservation closes to new entrants when the lot fills, so try to arrive early in the morning to avoid this inconvenience.

Thoreau cabin replica

            Start at the replica of Thoreau’s cabin, which is located near the parking area and beside SR 126.  This cabin is only a replica, and it does not sit on the original cabin’s site, which you will visit later in the hike.  As you would expect given Thoreau’s mission, the one-room cabin with two windows and a brick chimney is purely functional.  Imagine living in accommodations such as these during a New England winter.

State reservation entrance

            From the cabin, walk southwest and carefully cross busy SR 126 on the crosswalk provided.  Follow the paved path as it curves left and descends to arrive at Walden Pond’s main beach.  As you would expect in suburban Boston, this beach gets very crowded on warm summer days.  The main beach is also the start of the Pond Path, which encircles the pond.  As directed by a sign, I chose to turn right and hike counterclockwise around the pond.

            The Pond Path heads west with Walden Pond 20 feet downhill to the left and the hillside rising to the right.  Wire fences lining either side of the trail made me feel like a cow in a corral, but they are designed to protect the surrounding habitat by keeping people on the designated trail.  Ignore some side trails that exit right and lead further from the pond.

Walking between wire fences

            At 0.5 miles, the trail curves right as you approach Thoreau’s Cove.  Thoreau’s Cove is the largest of five separate coves that jut out from otherwise oblong-shaped Walden Pond.  The pond’s size is deceptive: though only 61 acres in area and 1.7 miles in circumference, parts of the pond are over 100 feet deep.

Wyman Meadow

            After crossing a pond inlet on a wooden footbridge, you pass Wyman Meadow, a wet meadow covered in tall green-stemmed plants.  On the other side of the meadow, the side trail to Thoreau’s cabin site exits right.  Take a brief detour from the Pond Path by turning right to visit the historic cabin site.

            At the top of a brief uphill climb, you reach the site where Thoreau’s actual cabin stood.  Of the original cabin, only some stones from the foundation remain.  The stones are surrounded by modern granite pillars and metal chains, which give the area a monument-type feel.  The historic cabin site is a popular place despite the fact that it sits in a clearing in the woods, and it provides another opportunity to ponder on Thoreau’s experiences.

Thoreau's cabin site

            Past the historic site, you could go back to the Pond Path and turn right.  Alternatively, if you are tired of walking between wire fences, there is another trail that leads west higher up the hillside and further from the pond.  I chose to go back to the Pond Path, and I was rewarded by seeing a family of mallard ducks enjoying the gravel pondside area.  On either route the crowds will thin after you pass the historic site.

Walden Pond

            At 0.8 miles, the trail climbs slightly to head around Ice Fort Cove and arrive beside the MBTA Fitchburg commuter rail line.  The rail line lies less than 100 feet from the pond, so all westbound trails come together here.  The Pond Path angles left to tread the narrow strip of land between the rail line on the right and the pond downhill to the left.

            After passing around Long Cove, you reach the south side of the lake, where the trail forks.  The trail going straight leads to Heywood’s Meadow, another wet meadow similar to Wyman Meadow, and Emerson’s Cliff, the highest land in the reservation.  This hike turns left to remain on the Pond Path.  Now heading eastbound, the pond stays in view to the left for the remainder of the hike.

Rounding Little Cove

            The trail undulates gently as it passes first around Little Cove and then around Deep Cove.  Deep Cove contains the pond’s canoe/kayak launch, and the boat launch parking lot lies just to the right.  Soon you approach the main beach, which marks the closing of the Pond Path loop.  Angle right on the main paved entrance trail and re-cross SR 126 to return to the parking lot and complete the hike.