Saturday, September 23, 2017

Pisgah National Forest: Pink Beds Loop Trail (Blog Hike #662)

Trail: Pink Beds Loop Trail
Hike Location: Pisgah National Forest, Pink Beds Picnic Area
Geographic Location: north of Brevard, NC (35.35342, -82.77872)
Length: 5.2 miles
Difficulty: 4/10 (Easy/Moderate)
Date Hiked: September 2017
Overview: A fairly flat lollipop loop, half along the South Fork of the Mills River and half through rolling foothills.
Hike Route Map: https://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=733769
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: From Brevard, take US 276 north 14.8 miles to the signed Pink Beds Picnic Area on the right.  Park in the large and only parking lot.

The hike: Located only 4 miles off of the Blue Ridge Parkway southwest of Asheville, the Cradle of Forestry in America celebrates the site of the first forestry school in the United States.  Originally part of the vast Biltmore Estate, the school operated from 1898 until 1909.  In 1916, Pisgah National Forest was established, and the school site and 87,000 acres of the Vanderbilt’s estate formed the nucleus of the new national forest.  The site was declared a heritage site by Congress in 1968, and today reconstructed buildings allow you to tour the school as it once was.
            While only a short system of paved trails runs through the heritage site, a more natural hiking experience can be had at the adjacent Pink Beds Picnic Area.  The origin of the pink beds’ name is not clear, but some people think it refers to the large amount of pink rhododendron that used to grow in this valley.  The 5 mile Pink Beds Loop Trail that starts at the picnic area is somewhat popular because it offers one of the area’s few fairly flat hikes of significant distance.  Nevertheless, do not be dissuaded if the picnic area parking lot is rather full as it was on my visit: most visitors never leave the picnic area, and I passed only a few other hikers on the trail.
Trailhead: Pink Beds Picnic Area
            Start at the northeast corner of the parking area where a gated two-track dirt road heads into the woods.  A wooden sign with a rough drawing of the trail’s route stands here.  After crossing a stream on a wooden footbridge, the trail splits to form its loop.  The two halves of the loop have very different flavors.  The east arm of the loop stays near the South Fork of the Mills River and has a riverside/wetland feel, while the west arm of the loop is more rolling with a foothills feel.  To get to the river more quickly, I chose to turn right and use the left trail as my return route, thus hiking the loop counterclockwise.
            The trail descends very gradually to reach the first of several boardwalks.  Built in 2013, these wide, expensive-looking boardwalks carry you over some wetlands along the river.  At some points the old boardwalk still sits beside the new, so you can clearly see the improvement.  Although a few wet areas still need to be negotiated, this part of the hike used to be much muddier and wetter than it is now.
New (left) and old (right) boardwalks
            The trail along the river alternates between sunny, grassy wetland and shady woodlands with a dense understory of rhododendron and ferns.  Orange rectangular paint blazes mark the way, but the path is wide and easy to follow for the most part.  The trail goes back and forth across the river, which at this elevation is more of a creek than a river.
Odd bridge across river
            Just past 1 mile, you cross the river on a very unusual bridge.  A huge log has fallen across the river here, and a man-made bridge carries you halfway across the river to the log, which in turn takes you the rest of the way.  I was a little concerned about footing on the log, but I had no problems crossing.  0.1 miles later, where the trail appears to dead-end at the river bank, you need to turn right and cross a narrow footbridge.  Watch for the orange blazes to stay on the trail.
Riverside hiking
            At 1.5 miles, the Pink Beds Loop Trail crosses and briefly joins the blue-blazed Barnett Branch Trail.  The Barnett Branch Trail cuts through the middle of our loop, so turning left and walking across the boardwalk would lead to the western half of our loop.  Such a route would provide a shorter loop of only 3.3 miles.  Heading east on the Barnett Branch Trail would climb 700 vertical feet to intersect the Black Mountain Trail.  Follow the orange blazes to remain on the Pink Beds Loop Trail.
            Next you climb gradually on a section of trail that was rerouted in the early 2010’s to avoid a riverside area flooded by beaver dams.  While no real overlooks are obtained, the trail gets just high enough that partially obstructed views of the Blue Ridge Parkway’s ridge crest to the west can be had through the trees.  Just past 2 miles, the trail drops steeply to return to the river and cross it for the final time.  A couple of established campsites are located in this area.
South Fork of the Mills River
            Near 2.5 miles, you reach a trail intersection.  A spur trail to a river gauging station and an alternate trailhead continues straight along the river, but our loop turns left to leave the riverside area for good.  Carsonite posts and orange blazes mark your options at this intersection.
            In another 0.4 miles, the trail curves sharply left at a turn marked by double orange blazes.  This point is where the hike changes character, as a gradual climb into the surrounding foothills now begins.  The difference between maximum and minimum elevations is only a little more than 100 feet, so the grade remains mostly gradual.  Lots of pine and oak trees live in this valley edge, and some short stretches on bare rock will need to be negotiated.
Hiking through rolling foothills
            After reaching the highest point on the hike, the trail drops to cross a pair of small streams.  The second of these stream crossings looks like a wet ford, but if you look to the right you will see a narrow but functional wooden footbridge.  At 3.6 miles, the Barnett Branch Trail crosses our trail.  Continue straight to remain on the Pink Beds Loop.
            More up and down takes you beside a sequence of wildlife openings, or meadow areas that are mowed occasionally to prevent the surrounding woodlands from encroaching.  While I saw no wildlife of note here on my mid-afternoon hike, these wildlife openings would be prime deer-viewing areas in the morning and evening.  An old Bureau of Roads marker also sits beside the trail here.
Wildlife opening
Immediately after passing the last wildlife opening, you close the loop.  Angle right to return to the picnic area parking lot and complete the hike.  Be sure to stop by the adjacent Cradle of Forestry in America to see the recreated forestry school before you conclude your visit to the Pink Beds.

Friday, September 15, 2017

Secor Metropark: Upland Woods, Wetwoods, and Wildflower Trails (Blog Hike #661)

Trails: Upland Woods, Wetwoods, and Wildflower Trails
Hike Location: Secor Metropark
Geographic Location: west of Toledo, OH (41.66871, -83.78581)
Length: 3.1 miles
Difficulty: 2/10 (Easy)
Date Hiked: August 2017
Overview: A flat semi-loop through a wide variety of woods.
Hike Route Map: http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=639231
Photo Highlight:

Directions to the trailhead: On the west side of Toledo, take I-475 to US 20 (exit 13).  Exit and go west on US 20.  Drive US 20 west 4.5 miles to the signed park entrance on the left.  Turn left to enter the park, and follow signs for the National Center for Nature Photography.  Park in the large paved parking lot behind the Center.

The hike: Cutting a narrow 1300 square mile north-south swath through northwestern Ohio and southeastern Michigan, the Oak Openings form one of the Great Lakes region’s most interesting ecosystems.  The area’s biodiversity was highlighted in Edwin L. Moseley’s book Flora of the Oak Openings published in 1928, and the area is sometimes still called the Moseley region today.  The Oak Openings lie on a series of low sand hills left behind by glaciers, and the glacier deposits make the openings slightly higher in elevation than the surrounding Great Black Swamp.  Thus, while the Great Black Swamp is very wet and heavily forested, the Oak Openings harbor seasonally wet prairies, oak woodland, and oak savannas, hence the name “openings.”  In fact, early settlers said that the trees in the Oak Openings were so sparse that a wagon could be driven in any direction without the need to build a path.
            Only a portion of the Oak Openings remains intact today, but several of the 14 parks that comprise Metroparks Toledo lie in that remnant.  One such park is Secor Metropark.  Established in 1949, Secor was the first Toledo Metropark established after the original six from the 1930’s.  The park is named for Arthur J. Secor, who bequeathed a parking lot that provided the money needed to purchase the land.  Before it became a park, the land belonged to the Jacob Wolfinger Farm, and a Wolfinger family cemetery is still maintained on site; it is located just south of the trailhead parking area.
            Secor Metropark is also regionally famous for its National Center for Nature Photography, which is located adjacent to the trailhead parking area.  The Center features some nice photography exhibits and a wildlife viewing window, but it is only open Friday through Sunday.  Hence, I did not get to tour the Center on my Monday visit.  The park also offers several picnic shelters, 3.5 miles of multi-use trails, and nearly 6 miles of hiking trails.  The hike described here explores the western portion of the park, which contains the transition zone between an oak opening to the east and a swamp to the west.
Kiosk at trailhead
            From the parking area, walk west past the south entrance for the National Center for Nature Photography to reach the information kiosk that serves as the trailhead.  The hike/bike path also starts here and forms its loop by going left and right.  This hike continues straight to head for the dirt Upland Woods Trail, which soon curves left to head into its namesake woods.
            Ignore some side trails that exit right to the Woodland Pond Trail and stay with the wide dirt trail as it heads south through dense woods dominated by large oak trees.  A few good-sized beech and poplar trees also grow here.  Trails at Secor Metropark are identified by name and color with numbered markers posted at one-tenth mile intervals.  The Upland Woods Trail is marked with grey markers that you will pass in increasing order.
Hiking the Upland Woods Trail
            After crossing a dirt road, at 0.4 miles you reach a signed trail intersection.  We will eventually turn right here to reach the Wildflower Trail, but first turn left to hike the Upland Woods Trail’s short loop.  At the next intersection, a right turn will take you counterclockwise around the loop, which takes you through more mature oak forest.  Ignore side trails that exit right to the park road and the bike path and stay left to complete the loop at 0.8 miles.  Continue straight to begin the yellow-marked Wildflower Trail.
Meadowview Picnic Area
            After crossing the main park road, a narrow unmarked spur trail exits left.  We will eventually continue straight to finish the Wildflower Trail.  To get a taste of Ohio’s Great Black Swamp, turn left to head for the Meadowview Picnic Area, then angle right to begin the red-marked Wetwoods Trail.  As its name implies, the Wetwoods Trail spends most of its distance in seasonally inundated swamp forest.  Part of this swamp forest has been drained by creeks that have been deepened and straightened to form ditches.  Bugs are very bad in this part of the park, so wear good bug spray if you choose to hike the Wetwoods Trail in the summer.
The Wetwoods Trail starts in a meadow area but soon descends imperceptibly to reach the gravel bike path and Wiregrass Creek, one of the ditches mentioned above.  The trail crosses Wiregrass Creek on the bike path’s bridge before splitting to form its loop.  Turn right to begin paralleling Wiregrass Creek and hike the loop counterclockwise.  A nice bench sits at this intersection if the bugs are not too bad.
Cardinal flower
The trail heads northwest with the creek/ditch on the right.  Some bright red cardinal flower was blooming beside the trail on my visit.  Soon you curve left to begin following Prairie Creek, another creek that has been transformed into a ditch.  Near the park’s western boundary, as the trail moves away from Prairie Creek you begin a long and fairly new wooden boardwalk that takes you over the wettest area.
Boardwalk on Wetwoods Trail
At 1.9 miles, you reach the end of the boardwalk where the Wetwoods Trail ends at the gravel bike path.  Turn left to return first to the start of the Wetwoods Trail, then to the Meadowview Picnic Area, and eventually to the Wildflower Trail.  Turn left to continue the Wildflower Trail.
The Wildflower Trail heads northwest to cross a paved road and pass near the Lone Oak Picnic Area.  I did not notice many wildflowers along the Wildflower Trail, but August is not the best time of year for woodland wildflowers.  Just past 2.5 miles, the trail splits only to come back together in another 0.2 miles.  The left option takes you through a seasonally wet area along Prairie Creek/ditch, while the right option stays on higher and drier ground.  Choose whichever option seems best based on the trail conditions you encounter.
Entering an oak opening
The trail surface turns grassy as you enter sunny open forest.  Just before you reach the gravel bike path for the last time, you leave the forest and enter one of the sunny oak savannahs that make the Oak Openings famous.  When you intersect the gravel bike path, turn right to cross the main park road and return to the National Center on Nature Photography.  If you want a little more time in the prairie, consider tacking on the sunny orange-marked Prairie Trail, a short 0.3 mile loop located just north of the photography center.